Buddhists. There are also some farms established for the supply of the court of Peking. They are called the imperial enclosures; but I suspect that they too are, to a certain extent, under the management and control of the priests. The tea-shrub is cultivated everywhere, and often in the most inaccessible situations, such as on the summits and ledges of precipitous rocks. Mr. Ball states* that chains are said to be used in collecting the leaves of the shrubs growing in such places; and I have even heard it asserted (I forget whether by the Chinese or by others) that monkeys are employed for the same purpose, and in the following manner: These animals, it seems, do not like work, and would not gather the leaves willingly; but when they are seen up amongst the rocks where the tea-bushes are growing, the Chinese throw stones at them; the monkeys get very angry, and commence breaking off the branches of the tea-shrubs, which they throw down at their assailants!

I should not like to assert that no tea is gathered⚫ on these hills by the agency of chains and monkeys, but I think it may be safely affirmed that the quantity procured in such ways is exceedingly small. The greatest quantity is grown on level spots on the hillsides, which have become enriched, to a certain extent, by the vegetable matter and other deposits which have been washed down by the rains from a higher elevation. Very little tea appeared to be cultivated on the more barren spots amongst the

* Cultivation and Manufacture of Tea.

hills, and such ground is very plentiful on Woo-eshan.

Having been all day toiling amongst the hills, I retired to rest at an early hour. Sing-Hoo told me afterwards that he never closed his eyes during the night. It seems he did not like the appearance of the ill-looking priest; and having a strong prejudice against the Fokien men, he imagined an attempt might be made to rob or perhaps murder us during the night. No such fears disturbed my rest. I slept soundly until morning dawned, and when I awoke felt quite refreshed, and equal to the fatigues of another day. Calling for some water to be brought me, I indulged in a good wash, a luxury which I could only enjoy once in twenty-four hours.

During my stay here I met a number of tea-merchants from Tsong-gan-hien, who had come up to buy tea from the priests. These men took up their quarters in the temples, or rather in the priests' houses adjoining, until they had completed their purchases. Coolies were then sent for, and the tea was conveyed to Tsong-gan-hien, there to be prepared and packed for the foreign markets.

On the morning of the third day, having seen all that was most interesting in this part of the hills, I determined to change my quarters. As soon as breakfast was over I gave the old priest a present for his kindness, which, although small, seemed to raise me not a little in his esteem. The chair-bearers were then summoned, and we left the hospitable roof of the Buddhist priests to explore more distant parts

of the hills. What roof was next to shelter me I had not the most remote idea.

Our host followed me to the gateway, and made his adieus in Chinese style. As we threaded our way amongst the hills, I observed tea-gatherers busily employed on all the hill-sides where the plantations were. They seemed a happy and contented race; the joke and merry laugh were going round, and some of them were singing as gaily as the birds in the old trees about the temples.

CHAPTER XIV.

Stream of "nine windings"-A Taouist priest - His house and temple

Du Halde's description of these hills Strange impressions of gigantic hands on the rocks-Tea-plants purchased - Adventure during the night - My visitors

Town of Tsin-tsun and its trade

tain scenery

Plants packed for a journey

Leave the Woo-e hills- MounThe lance-leaved pine-Rocks, ravines, and water

falls-A lonely road-Trees-Birds and other animals- Town of She-pa-ky-Productions of the country - Uses of the Nelumbium — Pouching teas - City of Pouching-hien.

We now proceeded across the hills in the direction of the small town of Tsin-tsun, another great mart for black tea. Our road was a very rough one. It was merely a footpath, and sometimes merely narrow steps cut out of the rock. When we had gone about two miles we came to a solitary temple on the banks of a small river, which here winds amongst the hills. This stream is called by the Chinese the river or stream of nine windings, from the circuitous turns which it takes amongst the hills of Woo-e-shan. It divides the range into two districts-the north and south the north range is said to produce the best teas. Here the finest souchongs and pekoes are produced, but I believe these rarely find their way to Europe, or only in very small quantities.

The temple we had now reached was a small and insignificant-looking building. It seemed a sort of half-way resting-place for people on the road from