we met with few people by the way. I was indulging in the hope that my day's journey would be through a quiet country district like what one sees on some of the country roads at home; but, in so far as a quiet country road was concerned, I was soon undeceived. Long trains of coolies were now met, loaded with tea which was destined for Hang-chow-foo, and thence for Shanghae, to be sold to the English and American merchants. As my chair-bearers walked very fast, we likewise passed great numbers on the road going the same way as ourselves. These were hands returning after having got rid of their loads at Chang-shan; but they were not returning emptyhanded; they were loaded with raw cotton, cotton goods, lead, and various other articles, which had either been imported from foreign parts, or produced in countries nearer the sea. At nearly every le of the road as we went along we found inns and teashops. The road in front of these houses was generally thatched over, in order that those who stopped for refreshment might be protected from the sun and rain.

When we had journeyed in this way about thirty le, my chair-bearers said they must rest awhile, and have some refreshment. I readily agreed to this proposition, as I was rather thirsty myself, and desired them to set me down at the first house we came

to, which they accordingly did. We walked into the house, and I took a seat at one table, while my servant and the chair-bearers seated themselves at another. The good lady of the house set down a

teacup before each of us, into which she put some tea, and then filled each cup up with boiling water. I need scarcely say she did not offer us any sugar or milk. Other tables were crowded with people, most of whom were coolies going to Chang-shan with tea, and whose chests nearly blocked up the road in front of the door. We drank our tea, which I found most refreshing, in its pure state without sugar and milk. Now and then some one connected with the house came round and filled our basins again with boiling water. This is usually repeated two or three times, or until all the strength is drawn out of the leaves.

Having smoked our pipes and paid two cash each for our tea, I got into my chair and resumed my journey. The road now led us up between two hills, and a huge stone gateway and pass showed me that I was on the outskirts of the province of Chekiang, and about to pass into Kiang-see. A strong wall, not unlike the ramparts of a city, connected the two hills, the gateway being of course in the centre of the pass. The whole place had a warlike appearance, and there was a military station on each side, so that each province might be duly represented and duly guarded. These stations were in a ruinous condition, and I observed only women and children about the houses. In peaceful times the soldiers are, no doubt, permitted to convert the sword into the ploughshare, and engage in the cultivation of the land.

Although small villages and houses for refreshment extended, at short intervals, along the whole

line of road, we rarely passed any town even of moderate size. About mid-day, however, we came to a place considerably larger than any we had passedI forget its name--and before I knew where I was, I was set down at the door of a large inn. Numerous chairs were standing at the door which belonged to travellers who were either going the same road as myself, or returning from the west to Chang-shan and the other towns in the east.

The moment I got out of my chair the innkeeper presented himself, and my chair-bearers very officiously informed him that it was my intention to dine there. I felt rather annoyed, but thought it best to put a good face on the matter, and ordered dinner accordingly. I had given Sing-Hoo strict injunctions never to stop at the inns much frequented by merchants, as I had no wish to meet men who were in the habit of seeing foreigners both at Shanghae and Canton. I had the greatest objection to meeting Canton men, who are continually travelling to and from the tea country, and who, with the same knowledge of foreigners as the Shanghae people, are much more prejudiced against us. Sing-Hoo had fallen behind, however, and was not aware of what the chair-bearers had done until it was too late. It appeared afterwards that the men had a good and substantial reason for their conduct, inasmuch as they got their own dinner free as a reward for bringing a customer to the house.

The inn was a large and commodious building extending backwards from the main street of the town.

Its front was composed of a number of boards or shutters which could be removed at pleasure. The whole of these were taken down in the morning and put up again at night. The floor of the building was divided into three principal compartments, the first facing the street, the second being behind it, and the third at the furthest end. Some small rooms which were formed on each side were the bedrooms.

Coolies and chair-bearers crowded that part of the building next to the street, in which they had their meals and smoked their pipes. The second and third divisions were destined for travellers, but, as there were large doors between each which stood wide. open, it was easy to see through from the front to the back part of the premises.

When I got out of my chair I followed "mine host" into the second compartment, in which I observed a table at each side of the room. One of them being unoccupied, I sat down at it, and with becoming gravity lighted my Chinese pipe and began to smoke. The host set a cup of tea before me and left me to attend upon some one else. I had now leisure to take a survey of the strange scene round me. At the opposite table sat two merchants, who a single glance told me were from the province of Canton. They were evidently eyeing me with great interest, and doubtless knew me to be a foreigner the moment I entered the room. One of them I had frequently seen at Shanghae. This person looked as if he wished me to recognise him, but in this he was disappointed, for I returned his

inquiring look as if I had never seen him before. I now observed him whispering to his companion, and thought I heard the word Fankwei used. In the mean time Sing-Hoo, who had just arrived, came in and began to bustle about and get in the dinner, which was soon ready. The host was a civil sort of man, but very inquisitive, and as he set down the dinner he put various questions to me. With Chinese politeness, he asked me my name, my age, where I had come from, and whither I was bound, and to all such questions he received most satisfactory answers. For example, when asked where I had come from, I replied, "From Chang-shan ;" and to the question as to whither I was bound I answered, "To Fokien." These answers were perfectly true, although not very definite. The Canton merchants were all eyes and ears while this conversation was going on, and one of them quietly prompted the innkeeper to ask a few more questions.

These gentlemen wanted to know the starting-point of my journey, the particular part of Fokien to which I was bound, and the objects I had in view. As I could not see that answers to these questions concerned them very much, or could be of any use, I judged it better to keep them in the dark.

Several dishes being now set before me, and a cup of wine poured out by the host, I took a sip of it, and taking up my chopsticks went on with my dinner. Having had great experience in the use of the chopsticks, I could handle them now nearly as well as the Chinese themselves; and as I had been