'But, better luck next,' as an old sailor expresses it; and the month of excitement having transpired, the Fowey's' course was altered, and cruize at an end. Now, then, for Teneriffe,' was all the cry from stem to stern. Crossing the Bay of Biscay, a French brig, bound to Senegal, with a mixed cargo, rewarded the 'Foweys' for their bad luck last time. A mate and eight hands were sent on board her, to take her to Plymouth; and sixteen thousand Spanish dollars shared at the capstan, to begin with-something for fresh grub and fruit at Teneriffe !

CHAPTER XXI.

THE "FOWEY" AT ANCHOR IN THE HARBOUR OF SANTA CRUZ.—THE OFFICERS' EXCURSION TO THE CANARY ISLANDS.-THE ISLAND OF FERRO. THE FOUNTAIN OF WATER TREE.-JACK'S MIXTURE FOR THE HOLY WATER.

THE first sight of land, was the conical Peak of Teneriffe, as it appeared above the clouds, at a distance of twenty-four leagues. It is said to be an extinguished Volcano, and called by the natives 'Pier de Teyde.' Author's differ as to its height, above the level of the sea, from two and half, to five miles. Having anchored in the harbour of Santa Cruz, abreast of the Mole, rendered famous by Nelson's loss of his right arm, in the ill-managed affair, called the 'Attack of Teneriffe,' but where the greatest gallantry and coolness was displayed by all employed in it, and an honorable retreat negotiated-fresh meat, poultry, fish, fruit, and vegetables, were obtained in abundance; but the wine supplied was execrable.

Pursers manage to get a superior wine for the Captain's and Officers' tables, by paying a certain sum over and above that allowed for ships' use; but all Teneriffe wines have a sickly twang, either from the goat skins, in which it is originally carried, or from the grapes not being properly separated from the stems, which possess a very acrid property, injurious to the flavour of the grape juice, and the process of fermentation does not altogether dissipate it.

The Peak of Teneriffe is also called 'Pies de Terraira;' and although snow has never been known to fall in any other part of the Island, it is only during the months of July and August that 'the Peak' is not entirely covered with it. The Island is very fertile, and produces barley, wheat, honey, wax, excellent cheese, sugar-cane, lemons, oranges, bananas, figs, and wood in abundance. Cattle are cheap; and the Island exports vast quantities of raw or salted hides.

An Irish monk, of the order of St. Francis, paid great attention to the 'Fowey's' officers; and being himself a very intelligent man, much information was obtained from him respecting the Canary Islands.' One of his first questions was, if they were not much surprised at the paucity of Canary birds?' The answer, 'Yes,' preceded a question from the Doctor, Why such was so very remarkable, as it really was?' 'Indeed, my son,' said the friar, 'I have been at Teneriffe twenty years, and I never have yet seen such birds as we call Canary birds,' in ould England or Ireland-save and except those brought from thence; for the natural Canary bird is nothing more or less than a green linnet, notwithstanding an Irishman tells you so.' There the friar was wrong. As, perhaps, you are looking out for curiosities,' said the friar-if you will take a trip to the Island of 'Ferro,' which is so called, because the soil is entirely composed of iron stone, clay, and gravel. I will accompany you, and show you a tree, the most miraculous in the known world; for there is not a well, nor rivulet, nor indeed a drop of fresh water in the island, except what the natives are indebted for to a tree. It is really worth while to visit such a wonder of the creation, for it is the only tree of its kind; nor is there any name by which it is known except

that of the Fountain of Water Tree.' ." It produces neither flower nor seed; and it is considered impossible to propagate it by layers or cuttings for hundreds of attempts have been made and failed; and at length the government interdicted further trials, through fear of injuring the tree. It is surrounded by cisterns, and supplies water sufficient for the use of all the inhabitants. It is an ever-green; its leaves long, narrow, and pointed like a spear. Upon its branches, rests a dense cloud, which the sun's most powerful rays never disperse nor dispel; and the leaves constantly drop water, pure as crystal, in such abundance, that the cisterns are never empty, and amply supply, as they write over public houses at home, 'both man and beast.'

It was unfortunate, that the uncertain stay of the "Fowey,' for further orders, prevented the acceptance of the friar's proposition. He was also very desirous of their seeing one of the aborigines, called 'Guanchos,' whose noses are as flat as those of the Hottentots and Bosjesmen of Southern Africa. These people inhabit the mountains, and live chiefly upon goats' milk and curds.

In the principal church at Santa Cruz, of which one of the chief 'glories' is a dirty old tattered red English ensign, which was picked up when the Fox' cutter was sunk off the mole-head, is invariably shown as a trophy of war, the 'spolia opima' taken from the great and immortal Nelson-the black-looking fellows who show the various paintings, shrines, &c., to visitors, seem to derive peculiar satisfaction in pointing out the Fox's colors (a glory we can well afford to spare them) to Englishmen. Jack heard of the national pride of the 'Santa Crucians,' and giving a hint to the intelligent Lob-lolly boy, who compounded medicines on board, and who was not a whit inferior to the best of the doctor's mates of Smollet's days, that he wanted a dye, to mix in water, very black and durable; he was soon supplied with a phial of the solution of nitrate of silver, &c., which he carefully deposited in a side pocket; and having been ordered to attend the Captain ashore to call on the consul, he took an opportunity of walking into the church where, whilst the cossock'd vergers were employed in attending a party of strangers, he dropped

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the contents of the phial into the holy water,' and then, with all possible nonchalance, joined the other visitors, who were admiring the splendour of the grand altar, and the paintings which decorated it. 'Jack' afterwards rejoined his Uncle, at the Consul's dinner.

The first thing an idler thinks of, after the ship is moored, is to 'foot it' ashore. Now, the idlers, in men-of-war, are the officers of marines, where there are any (the one in the 'Fowey' was merely a passenger to the Flag Ship, at Barbadoes), the surgeon, chaplain (where there is any), and purser. These gentry are sure to be the first to bore the commanding officer for a boat, before they even give him time to send the master, or go himself, round the ship 'to see how she looks about the bends, and square the yards,' if not properly squared from in-board.

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Well, by way of keeping the charter up, the passenger, surgeon, and purser were the first to land at Santa Cruz;' and the first place to visit, also according to established charter, was a 'Fonda,' or (as they call a tavern at Teneriffe) 'hotel.' The first place of the sort they came to, was Francisco's 'British hotel,' where coffee and tea, and infernal aquadente, were abundantly supplied, in the white-washed coffee-room, on the left hand as one enters from the street; and, although early the hour, the adjoining room was filled almost to suffocation, by a set of fellows, more like gaol birds than officers or gentlemen, who were busily occupied at the game of 'monte.' Nevertheless, many of them were men of rank in the Spanish service; many were under sentence of banishment, for political offences, from the Peninsula: some wore orders of knighthood; and one in particular, wore, on his left breast, the green silk embroidered Order of Calatrava.' There were military officers of rank, by the gold bars upon the cuffs of very shabby surtouts, of all shades and colors; but the huge whisker and the scarlet cockade were common to all.

At the head of a pretty long table, a little monkey-faced urchin, just such a creature as, with wooden legs, one might fancy a capital 'diable boiteux,' was dealing a pack of very dirty cards, ' las naypes,' very slowly; whilst holding the pack straight in his left hand, merely supporting the cards with his thumb, and drawing the bottom card with his right hand in a moment there was an exclamation of CAVALLO!' (horse), and a thousand instantaneous 'carajos!" 'demonios!' 'carambas!' and 'careis!' 'Cavallo' had won; and all who had ventured their money upon a similar card, lying on the table, were vociterous for payment of the stakes. Spanish dollars and doubloons changed hands to a large amount. The little dealer,' who was the principal chirujano' or surgeon of the troops, had ventured all he possessed in this world in the bank; his funds were sufficient, but barely so, to pay his debts of honor. Without a comment, he retired, amidst the rejoicings and smiles of the winners, of whom one had taken the vacated seat, and, with adios amigos,' Ift the room. He had scarcely set foot in the street, when a poor beggar

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