front of this, to the north-east, is another enclosure consisting of a large earthwork, while tho hillfront below it is broken up with intrenchments. The outer earthwork appears to be a Roman camp attached to an earlier sacred enclosure of the conquered race.

Next along this ridge of hills which overshadows the Ely river, and forms a background to the Cardiff valley, we come to the hamlet of Leckwith. It is a scattered group of picturesque cottages clustered about a rebuilt church. A good yew-tree is the sole relic of antiquity in the graveyard, overlooking a streamlet which trickles down the wooded slopes into the river below. Next is the larger village of Llandough, where, above another streamlet on the hillside, rises the conspicuous tower of another rebuilt church. This contains an interesting arch of Norman days; and in the churchyard is a tall shaft of a cross covered with the interlacing patterns of earlier days, its base sculptured also on one side with the figures of a horse and rider, and carrying a massive square stem, with a thick roll-moulding at each angle, which again carries a large contral boss, and on this is another upright stone forming the upper portion of the shaft; but the head which formerly crowned it is gone. It is a relic of much interest, as belonging to one of the early religious settlements of the district; for the abbey of Llandough, perhaps taking its name from Bishop Dochdwy, who is thought to have been its founder, was one of considerable importance; and like its neighbour at St Fagan's, and the monastic churches Caerleon and Caerwent, it enjoyed, even in Norman days, the right of sanctuary.

of

Next to Llandough the ridge dips down to the village of Cogan.

Its little ruined church, hiddon away in a secluded dell in the distance, close to the farmyard of Cogan Hall, is another relic of primitive days; for though it was completod in its present form in Tudor times, the low and narrow chancel arch and the herring-bone work which is conspicuous in the walls, bespeak extreme antiquity. Now its roof has fallen through, its door and windows have disappeared, its floor, with gravestones of the Herberts, is desecrated with filth, its little porch is choked with weeds and brushwood. The village to which it belongs, a mile away, has grown up into a suburb of Penarth, with a large population of brick-workers and dock-labourers, while Penarth in turn is rapidly attaching itself as a suburb to Cardiff.

Penarth means the head of the boar; and if it be not a corruption of some simpler name, it must be derived from the appearance which, we may presume, its crumbling precipice of rock presented to the fancy of a former age. The town occupies the summit of a striking headland, in which the ridge of hills ascends again from Cogan and terminates abruptly above the Severn sea. Brean Down, above Weston-super-mare, is its continuation upon the opposite side. Here the eye may sometimes travel from the eastern outliers of the Mendips above Bristol, as far westward as the hills of Exmoor.

The summit of this cliff was occupied thirty years ago by an insignificant hamlet, with a little church equally insignificant. It had been but a chapel, attached to the larger church of the monastery of Llandough. A fine churchyard cross of the fourteenth contury, its four-sided head sculptured with canopied figures on each face, a crucifix, a seated bishop, the Holy

Virgin, and St Michael the archangel with his scales; this, and a good cross-marked coffin-lid of late Norman age, were the only ancient features deemed worthy of being preserved. Now the church is re-erected on a scale of considerable magnificence in brick and stone, with its piers and enrichments of dark-red conglomerate from the Radyr quarries on the banks of the Ely; while its lofty tower, still surmounted by the characteristic saddle-back roof of the district, forms a conspicuous landmark up and down the Channel. The site of the old scattered hamlet is occupied now by the compact streets of a well-built town, shaded here and there by a tree which was part of a former hedgerow ; while the fields that once surrounded it are covered now with lines of villas and detached mansions which are the outward tokens of the wealth of Cardiff. And where lately the only communication by road between the great seaport and this hamlet was along the circuitous lanes on the ridge of hills by Leck with and Llandough, there is now a direct modern roadway and also a line of railway crossing the two rivers, and traversing what was once the impassable swamp of Leckwith Moor. Relics of the old groves of woodland, which once clothed the western front of the cliff, are now enclosed in public gardens and private shrubberies; and the foot of the rocks below, once exposed to the destructive action of the waves, is now protected by a long line of esplanade, with its refreshment - rooms and baths and boat-houses. On the other side of the headland, where twentyfive years ago the marshy outflow of the river Ely was undisturbed, a harbour and docks have been constructed between the river and the cliff coal-vessels of the largest size carry off their burdens on the

one side, and on the other side the lines of railway bring down their mineral from the hills; while again two rival lines extend themselves westward, the one ascending by Penarth town and the cliff, the other passing through the hollow of Cogan village, to meet eventually at the next great dock which is now being constructed, some five miles off, at Barry Island.

Leaving once more the iron roads of modern life and commerce, let us turn back to the dead past of the historic Julian Way. On the rising ground between the valleys of the Thaw and the Ewenny rivers, 15 miles to the west of this district, a portion of the road is known as the Golden Mile. The tradition which explains the name connects itself with the arrival of the Normans, whose castles and churches form so important a feature throughout the district. Eineon ap Colwyn (his father possibly being the chieftain who gave his name to Colwinstone just south of the Golden Mile) was allied with Jestyn ap Gwrgan, the lord of Morganwg and owner of Cardiff Castle, with other chieftains, in a revolt against their sovereign lord, Rhys ap Tewdwr, king of Dynevor and chief prince of South Wales. Eineon, having served with the Normans in France, was chosen to seek the aid of William Rufus, whose father, the conqueror of England, had invaded Wales and had forced the Welsh to do him homage; and the powerful Jestyn had promised the hand of L Nest his daughter as a reward for the success of Eineon's mission. It was successful. The King of England sent his father's cousin and lord of his Privy Council, Robert Fitzhamon, who, with twelve knights and 3000 men, completely subdued the army of Rhys ap Tewdwr. The victory

was gained on the wide common of Hirwain Wrgan, north of Aberdare, near the borders of Brecknock. The Normans returned to receive their hire in gold upon that spot of the Julian Way which thenceforth bears the name of the Golden Mile. Then following this road eastward, perhaps as far as the point where it bends slightly to the north from St Lythan's Down, we may presume that they took the direction of the valleys towards the southeast, possibly going by the line of the streamlet towards Michaelstone, and beneath the wooded cliffs of Court-y-Rala, and so by the Castle of Dinas Powys, which is said to have been the inheritance of Jestyn's wife. At any rate they emerged upon the coast two miles east of this point at Penarth, where their ships awaited them in the estuary of the Ely. But Jestyn refused to make good his promise of rewarding Eineon's service with the hand of his daughter, and Eineon, in the rage of his disappointment, hurried after the Norman knights. Stress of weather favoured him, for they had been unable to proceed. They lent a willing ear to Eineon's tale of Jestyn's treachery, backed as it was by the prospect of a share in his great possessions. They marched back to Dinas Powys, and besieged and took Jestyn's castle.

Of the massive parallelogram of walls which exists at the present day, we may suppose that portions at least are as old as Jestyn's day. It occupies a detached knoll beneath the hillside at the entrance of a thickly wooded valley, whence the grey fabric frowns across the plain out of the grove of oaks and firs and other forest-trees which almost encircle it. In front of it a swift stream descends from Michaelstone to flow out by the Barry Docks three miles below,

and a small tributary brook runs behind it. These streams unite

beneath a picturesque mill of some antiquity, possibly representing a mill of Jestyn's day. Bohind this the portal of the castle opens southward. On the east there is a blocked postern in the wall, communicating with what seems to have been an enclosed courtyard behind the mill, covering the ground between the castle and its protecting rivulet. On the north, where the back of the knoll is covered with large loosened blocks of limestone, there was an extension of the castle, approached by a doorway from the keep, and fragments of walls remain beneath the overgrowth of trees. On the west a wooded bank slopes steeply to the second brook. But the keep only serves now as the enclosing wall of the miller's garden, thickly planted with fruit-shrubs and nut trees. The quarrymen are breaking up the neighbouring rocks, and busy toilers on the plain in front aro diverting the water-courses and rooting up the hedgerows, and changing the old winding lanes into the hard highways of modern needs; and these labourers, with the navvies of the docks and railways, have forced the population of a town into the obscure hamlet of Dinas Powys. The scene of the fierce struggles of the WelshBriton with the Anglo-Norman has become a scene in which the united races are joined in the ener gies of a common enterprise.

Dinas Powys yielded to the invading band of Normans; and these now moved forward to attack Jestyn's still mightier stronghold beyond the Ely and the Taff. But, as we have seen, it was a march of several miles in those days, and for ages afterwards, between Dinas Powys and Caerdydd. The Normans marched northward,

and crossed the Ely at St Fagan's, and crossed the Taff at Radyr above Llandaff. The forces of Jestyn from Caerdydd marched northward also; and the rivals met upon the slopes of Mynydd Bwchan, the Great Heath, between Llandaff and Llanishen: The site of their battle adjoins that which now witnesses the more peaceful contests of the Cardiff

race-course.

As in the struggle of the lesser chieftains against Rhys ap Tewdwr, the Norman had enabled the weaker to overcome the stronger,. SO now he was victorious on Eineon's behalf against Jestyn. The lord of Cardiff Castle fled to end his days at Bristol, while Fitzhamon and his Normans divided the spoils. The conqueror kept this chief castle for himself, together with its manors of Cowbridge and Kenfig upon the great highway westward, and another important manor of Boverton upon the coast south of Cowbridge. The knights had their several shares in the same district; the coastland west of Penarth being given to Reginald de Sully, a fragment of whose castle may still be seen behind the church in Sully village. The Norman kings could spare no regular forces for the conquest of Wales; but in permitting their fierce barons to undertake private enterprises in the quarrels of the Welsh chieftains, their end was no less surely gained, and all the land became parcelled out among the Normans and the chieftains who depended on their aid, as Morganwg was now divided among the twelve knights whom Fitzhamon lod, a share being also given to Eineon; and for a show of justice some further share fell to Jestyn's children.

Meanwhile the defeated king of Dynevor was defending himself in the fastnesses of his mountains.

With him another sufferer at the hands of the Norman was taking refuge. This was Hugh Basset, the English lord of Chepstow, who had occupied a castle there in defence of the English border against the Welsh when they were driven westward. Basset in his turn had been dispossessed in favour of the conqueror's kinsman William FitzOsbern, and the Welshman and the Englishman were thus united against their common foe. In 1090, they together defied Fitzhamon's power; but a battle ensued in which the protector and his guest both met their end on Mynydd Dhu, the Black Mountain. The name of Rhys or Rice of Dynevor is perpetuated at the present day in an English barony; the name of Basset has been carried on in the parish of St Hilary near Cowbridge, where the parish church contains a fine effigy of Thomas Basset, who died in the fifteenth century; and in the churchyard is the tomb of the last male heir of his line, who has lately passed away, his fine Tudor mansion of Bewper Castle, or Beaupré, being left a ruin.

Fitzhamon being a favourite of the king, had been created Earl of Gloucester, and attempted at once to consolidate his power by forcing upon the Welsh of Morganwg the feudal system of the Normans, and at the same time to extend the Norman dominion into the Welsh regions westward. He organised an expedition into the peninsula of Gower beyond Swansea Bay, but the Welshmen only put forth their strength the more boldly to recover what they had lost. It was in 1094, five years after he had first set foot in Morganwg. Payne de Turberville, a dependent of Fitzhamon, had built himself a castle at Coity above Bridgend, between the Ewenny and the Ogmore, where his build

ings still romain among the most famous of the castles of South Wales. In Turberville the discontented Welsh found a leader, and with his aid they attacked Cardiff Castle. But the power of the Norman was too firmly settled now, and the day of success for a Welsh revolt was gone. Cardiff in Fitzhamon's hands was a secure prison for Duke Robert of Normandy; and when in 1107 its lord died of wounds received at the battle of Falaise, his daughter and heiress Mabel conveyed his castle and lands to another Norman lord. She was married to Robert, a son of Henry I., who in his turn became Earl of Gloucester, with the lordship of Glamorgan. Then followed another revolt, as Earl Robert attempted to tread in the footsteps of his father-in-law. Ivor Bach headed the attack, and the castle was taken, and the earl and his lady were prisoners. But he granted a charter to the Welshmen, securing to them their ancient privileges, and so was restored to his possessions and his freedom. His history, as a supporter of his half-sister, the Empress Matilda, against Stephen, is portrayed in a series of elaborato frescoes upon the walls of the banqueting - hall in the renovated castle.

The policy of the Norman kings had subdued the independence of South Wales by bestowing the lands upon English and Norman lords. It was in the more northern districts that the Llewellyns asserted their claims in the thirteenth century; and when Owen Glendwr, claiming descent from the Llewellyns, set up the national standard against King Henry IV., those districts were also the chief scene of his victories. But that hero, on one occasion in 1404, made an inroad upon Morganwg, where the English power seemed

secure.

He attacked Llandaff, destroying a large portion of the cathedral and burning the house of the archdeacon and the bishop's castle. Upon the rising ground south of the cathedral, where a renovated cross adorns the village green, which is the market-place of the city, the approach to the modern bishop's palace is through a dismantled gate-tower and along a ruined wall-the relics which testify to the fury of Glendwr's onslaught upon the ancient fortress. After this he made himself master of Cardiff, demolishing parts of the castle, from which he carried off much plunder, and burning the remainder of the town except the house of the Franciscan friars; for these had been his friends, both here and elsewhere, as they had been the friends of Llewellyn before him and a ruined doorway and an ivy-clad window still survive as relics of the old home of the Friars Minor. Glendwr was at the height of his power now; but his defeat by the young Henry of Monmouth, the titular prince of Wales, shortly followed. In his last effort we find him once more upon the Julian Way. Twelve thousand Frenchmen, it is said, were disembarked at Milford Haven to assist his cause, and he joined them at Tenby with ten thousand. They marched together through Glamorganshire to the neighbourhood of Worcester, but were compelled to retreat, and the Frenchmen hastened homeward. An attack upon Coity Castle, which was hold for the king, was Glendwr's final adventure in South Wales.

Happily for Wales the aspirations of her patriot-hero failed. She could not be independent; but the outward token of her complete union with the kingdom was seen at last in the crowning of a Welshman as King of England. Owain