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at the end of a string, and this he over the short steep seas which banged with a stick.

a strong wind soon raises on tho Once out of the harbour. we ran Zuyder Zee. The many harbours to the soutlıward for the island of of the Zuyder Zee aro crowded Urk. over a gently heaving sea, with these craft, especially on Satand with a light fair wind filliug arılay nights, when the boats have our biggest toprail and balloou all coine in for the Sabbath's rest. jib

The shores of Friesland faded It is said that a thousand may away, leaving only a line of clumps sometimes be seen in sight at one floating in a silvery haze ; then, as time, and the sky - line to the these disappeared, Urh islaud rose soutlıward seemed like the teeth like a cloud on the horizon, and of a saw with their narrow sails, presently became plainly visible - so nuinerous were they. There à curious wound of gravel dis harbours to leeward from tinctly uulike any part of the wherever the storm - wind may mainland. crowned with its ser wlow on this beautiful sea, and its raterl group of louses and the so called dead cities are busy with lighthouse ou tle green. As we sea - life, and their spacious harhail visited Urk twice before, and bours thronged with craft. knew well its brawny fislerweu The North Holland coast was and awazouislı but comely wonien,

now visible in a succession of we did not now laud. In manner, clumps-trees, or houses, with the custows, and dress, and also in lack ever-present pearly lustre under of household cleanliness, the Ork neath and between. Then the islauders are a tribe apart from clumps were joined by the thin flat the Dutch.

line of shore, and we stood along Leaving the island on our left, the land looking for Hoorn. A ve ran still to the south-west in smart breeze and some rain sent search of a beacon which marks us swishing along with the leo the end of the large sboal known decks awash, and as close-hauled as Eukhuisen saud, which stretches as we could go, until the beautiful out so far froin the shore that the watergate of Hoorn, with its lofty lofty church-tower of Enkluisen tower, came in sight, and then we was the only thing visible on th lad to tack up the harbour, soundwesteru horizou. We caught sight ing carefully with a pole on each of the beacon just as we began to tack, aud sailed into the pretty think we had missed it.

It is a

tree-bordered basin which forms mere stick with a cage on the top. the inner harbour of Hoorn. Here We raced past it with a freshening we were quietly and safely moored wind and sea, and as we hauled for two days. There is plenty to our wind and stood to the west see at and near Hoorn. The city ward to fetch Hoorn Bay, we had itself is so delightfully ancient, to lower the topsail. Soou wo

with its pointed and ornate gables were amoug, the fleet of schuyts leaning this way and that in defiengaged in fishing for anchovies. ance of the laws of architectural Queer-looking craft they are ; flat gravity ; its weigh - house, where bottoined of course, with long nar the cheese - weighers attached to row lee-boards, very beamy, and the huge scales wear different with such high sloping prows as

coloured hats as a distinctive mark to make them look all bow and for the cheese of each district; no štern. But nothing can be the market-place, where the counbetter adapted for riding safely try chariots were drawn up, and

the cheeses spread upon the ground

We strolled under the great in readiness for the morrow's mar- dyke which surrounds the Zuyder ket, protected by tarpaulins and Zee with a rampart of Norway canvas in case of rain during stone, and holds its waters as in a the night; the busy modern Dutch gigantic cup above the surroundlife, which is yet as quaint and ing land, and we heard the waves distinctive as the ancient life, and breaking above our heads on the is still well fitted to the ancient other side of the dyke. streets, the English shield from We left Hoorn at eight o'clock a war-ship hung as a trophy out on a sunny morning, but had not side the town hall; all is inter- gone half a mile when a fog came esting in the extreme, and makes on so thick that we could not see every step in Hoorn a pleasant the bowsprit-end. As there was one.

å good and fair breeze, we kept on, We revisited Enkhuisen, which hoping the fog would soon clear, we had remembered to have been but taking the precaution to set the deadest of the dead cities, but the log and & proper compass where we now found a large new course; but the fog thickened, and harbour with steamers to Fries- we could hardly see each other. land, running in connection with We were bound to Amsterdam, trains which entered a brand-new twenty-seven miles to the southand sumptuous station.

ward, but wished to touch MarThe harbours were crowded with ken, thirteen miles off. On we fishing - craft, and the channels sailed, peering anxiously with between the mainland and the sand straining eyes for the schuyts were thronged with sailing-craft- which we knew to be near us. great tjalks laden high with peat A gigantic shape would suddenly or hay, or the brushwood used for loom up and quickly disappear, repairing dykes, unwieldy floating and we knew that we had passed stacks which yet managed to sail within a very few yards of a well.

schuyt, or a tall pole would glide The streets were less grass-grown past within a few inches of the than before, and the dead city is bulwark, showing that we were awaking from its long sleep. We among the long lines of sticks to went to Zaandam, with its broad which the eel - fishers fasten their and beautiful river, and its three eel lines and nets. hundred and sixty-five windmills, depth of the southern part of the sawing wood, grinding flour, and Zuyder Zee is but eight feet, and turning out money for the wealthy it is this shoalness which makes Zaandammers. Westrolled through its seas dangerous in a storm. the bright green meadows, where There were momentary lightenthe black - and - white cows were ings of the fog and then dense milked by blue-bloused, men into smotherings of it, until we could red milk-pails, and the milk was hardly see the compass-card : of carried in green-and-white boats, all sea troubles short of an actual along green dykes to green-and- gale a fog is the worst, and to a red farms, within squares of green well-found and strong yacht a fog and yellow stemmed trees; and all in crowded waters is perhaps worse under a blue-and-white sky and a than a gale. Our eyes ached and blazing sun : all bright pronounced our heads grew dizzy peering colour, and never a half-tone any. through the darkness. As the wliere.

skipper said, “One can see any

The average

thing in a fog," meaning that the we were ramping along under a strange shapes of the rolling mist brilliant sun and blue sky; the sea are deceptive, and show untruth- covered with schuyts through which fully ship or buoy or land, while we had come safely in a somewhat hiding the reality. After a couple marvellous manner. We distanced of hours of this unpleasant and all craft bound in the same direcdangerous state of things, we haul- tion, sailed briskly up to the ed the log, and found that we had great sluices at Schellingwoude, run the entire distance to Marken. which connect the Y with the We at once sounded, and found Zuyder Zee, passed through in that we were in five feet of water company with many vessels and -only three inches to spare. In yachts, left them all astern, and another five minutes we should arrived at our old berth at Amsterhave been ashore on Marken Island. dam early in the afternoon. We stood off to six feet and in There was a gorgeous and most to five, carefully and continually successful regatta on the Friday sounding, until the land loomed at sea off Ymuiden, on the Saturoverhead. We kept as close to the day on the Y, on the Sunday'on shadow of it as we dared until we the Zuyder Zee, and a week's heard the sound of the fog-bell off cruise of yachts in company round the harbour, and not deeming it the Zuyder Zee, which must have prudent to land, we stood on for been most charming ; but imperAmsterdam. All at once the fog ative business called us back to lifted, giving us a good view of the England on the Saturday, and we island. In another half-hour every missed most of the fun. vestige of fog had disappeared, and G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES.



" And, always, 'tis the saddest sight to see.

An old man faithless in Humanity."

TAKEN AS a whole. Flounder- droop in their sockets to a halfshayle was a singularly grey place, melancholy, half-drunken angle, though grey, it is true, in many which cannot fail to impart a cerdifferent shades. There was the tain desolation to the scene which dull grey of the rocks. the chilly they are supposed to frame; panes grey

of the huddled houses, topped that are for ever crusted with the by the bluish-grey of their slate- salt of flying spray cannot be exroofs ; there was the leaden grey pected to blink as brightly as their of the waves, and there was the inland brethren; walls that have stormy grey of a low-hanging sky, stood there patiently to be beaten rarely lightened at this season by and buffeted from year to year, , so much as a watery sunbeam. their faces scarred by a hundred Taken as a whole, Floundershayle storms, the doorsteps at their feet was also a singularly serious place. eaten into by the eager breath of Perhaps it was because of its being the sea, will never smile at the so grey that it was so serious; or wanderer with that cheery wel. perhaps what had given to the vil- come which happy farmhouses, or lagers that set cast of countenance, thatched cottages in sheltered dells, and even to the children that can so cheaply give. The very solemn stare, was the anxiety of door-framed, as it very likely is, the life they lived, the tooth-and- from the remains of a ship that nail struggle with wind and waves has gone to pieces on the rocks by which the majority of them before your eyes — can scarcely gained their bread. Men who, on be entered with quite the same an average, look death in the face. vacuity of thought that would be not less than once a-week, are not perfectly in place in the farmgenerally given to viewing life house or the cottage. from a light-hearted or a flippant So, whether it was that the vil. point of view. Children whose lage was haunted by the ghosts of fathers, or if not their fathers drowned fishermen, or whether it their uncles, ou if not their uncles was that it was shadowed by the their grandfathers, have come to curses of shipwrecked mariners— an untimely end in pursuit of their such mariners, namely, who, acwatery calling, are wont to draw cording to wicked old stories about their early impressions, those im- that Choughshire coast, had been pressions. that mould character, shipwrecked not quite by accident from nights of terror and scenes of Floundershayle was grey, and it grief; to have their games broken was serious. No doubt the granite off by the exigencies of desperate had more to do with it than any. rescues, and their laughter drowned thing else. The rocks were granite; by the wailing of their mothers out of great square blocks of this and the weeping of their sisters. same granite the houses were built, Windows that are for ever being and with great slabs of granite the shaken by the wind are apt to pig-sties were enclosed, lumps of

granite paved the tortuous streets, of wooden palings. Half-a-dozen and stiles of granite intercepted granite boulders pushed together the paths. No golden thatch, no so as to form a rough wall was the rosy flush of bricks—all grey stone common thing; or occasionally an and grey slate.

old fishing-net, stretched from one But of course it was not all stake to the other, ended its existgrey, or flesh and blood could not ence in the character of an imhave stood it. There is nothing so promptu garden-hedge. bad but it has its extenuating cir- It must have been in obedience cumstances, The little steep stony to the law of compensation that streets climbing up and down the the Floundershayle villagers cultiuneven ground were brightened vated their tangled gardens. The here and there by rough attempts red and the yellow of these bright at gardening. Coming suddenly patches was the natural antidote round a straggly corner, or emerg- to the grey of the granite, and ing from out of the most curiously their perfume, no doubt, was equaltwisted byway, it was a' relief to ly the antidote to the other perfind a fuchsia still in flower nailed fumes of the place. For, in addiagainst a sheltered scrap of wall, tion to being grey and to being and nodding its many red heads at serious, the village also, unfortuyou in the breeze; or to stumble nately, was very highly scented, upon little odd corners of garden, and not exclusively with the breath • of any shape and in any position, of flowers. It smelt of fish in three-cornered or square, a strip every shape, and also, alas ! in or a patch, screening themselves every stage; of fish cooked, unfrom the sea-air as best they could, cooked, and cooking; of fish plump and chock-full just now of some- and lean, flat and long, fresh-caught what battered autumn flowers,—of and stale. It smelt also of nets asters and marigolds and dahlias, hung up to dry, of wet boots put all with very thick juicy stalks, out to sun, of boats pulled on to and very big round heads, fed and the beach, of a great many square fatted as they were by fish-refuse gards of wood and wool and leather, and sea-weed manure. And here, which had been saturated, and too, the remains of defunct ves- thrice saturated, with sea-water. sels come in most conveniently ; Floundershayle had a church for if Dick Trebellin's patch of with a square tower, it had a "escalony" was fenced in with post - office, and it had also an what had once formed part of the inn. This inn stood at the upper cabin-work of that Dutch ship that end of one of the steep streets, was wrecked last year, Bob Penly which up to that point was very had been even more fortunate in narrow, like all the Floundershayle securing for his geranium-bed three streets, but widened there abruptly, yards of green trellis-work, which leaving a free space in front of the no one would have recognised as inn, a sort of sandy slope, where the poop of that unfortunate Ger- three or four old boats lay, keel-upman vessel that six years ago was permost-boats which would never lost with all hands. But as the put to sea again, and now appeared demand for the precious spars was to have no other object in existence

as ships were not than to serve as convenient lounges wrecked every day even at Floun- for the gossips of the place. In dershayle, it was only a favoured each of the inn windows which few who were the proud possessors flanked the front door there was


great, and

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