We passed the night, after five hours' travelling from Custendjeh, at a detestable village of thatched cottages, where the fleas did not allow us to rest even on mattresses placed in the open air. An infinity of curs never ceased baying at our only consolation, the moon. The Tartars inhabiting

this delightful spot are the remains of the famous horde of Boudjak, who restored the Khans of the Crimea. They now occupy about fifty villages, the population of which is estimated at two thousand families. The hospitality which everywhere distinguishes these primitive tribes is very striking. It is across the Valley of Trajan that the Austrian Government some time ago wished to construct a junction canal between the Danube and the sea. The project is scarcely feasible, though apparently facilitated, and, in fact, to a certain extent, completed, by a chain of lakes communicating with each other. The plain which stretches from Custendjèh to the upper extremity of the valley is too wide and too elevated to allow the idea of cutting through it to be entertained, especially with the chance of meeting with rock at a slight depth below the surface. A railway, however, is far from impracticable, and would be attended by most advantageous results. A Russian occupation of the mouths of the Danube would then be unmeaning and idle, since Ibraïla and Galatz would throw direct on Custendjèh the main part of their exports, and that part of the Turkish territory which borders on Russia possesses neither trees nor agriculture.

The banks of the Danube, already descried in the distance from the heights descending to Tcharnovoda, present a lovely spectacle-the same rich and majestic features which characterize the great rivers of the south. By night, an effect exactly resembling that of the aurora borealis was produced by the conflagration of reeds, frequently resorted to in the lowlands, in order, as it is said, to destroy the malaria. Tcharnovoda, a miserable village of from fifteen to twenty houses, could not supply us with a single boat to take us down to Galatz. We ran to fling ourselves, as we might, into the very waters of the river which, on a nearer survey, confined as they are between high banks, present little picturesque beauty. On the opposite bank rises from among willow-trees a Russian barrack-a Moldo-Wallachian watch-tower. A patriarch, of the wildest imaginable aspect, scarcely gave life to the solitude, seeming to represent, for the occasion, the genuine peasant of the Danube.

The road as far as Matchina is one of monotonous desolation, traversing steppes, on which an occasional whirlwind of light straws, whimsically skimming along before the wind, was the only object which attracted our attention. We saw, however, cattle and crops of maize. Our horses, partaking the general oppression of nature, seemed to be utterly exhausted. Wrapped in a Greek cloak, my head supported on the cushion of a Circassian saddle, I contemplated, by the ruddy beams of a candle, my companions lying in a group on the ground, and beside them two or three Tartars, come to honour us with their company, and to smoke their tchibouks. These good people, living like patriarchs by themselves, and unacquainted with any of our rules of propriety, could not account for the astonishment and restraint of the strangers whom they persecuted.

Next day we enacted the parts of guests at a Moldavian house, delightfully situated on the slope of a hill which descends to the Danube, the valley of which it commands. On the left, towards the east, is discovered the peninsula chain of Bulgaria, truncated on its summit in a very

singular manner. The mistress of the house prepared with her own hands some soup and immense flat cakes, in which, unhappily for me, the flavour of leeks, garlic, and cheese were predominant. Moldavian villages are pretty numerous on this side of the river; and there are to be found in them specimens of all races-Jew, Cossack, and Muscovite, from the other side.

The neighbourhood of Matchina we found rather more agreeable. The town seemed as if it wished to emerge from obscurity. Its streets are enlivened by numerous shops and the songs of Greek sailors. Great animation reigns over all the river, which gradually widens all the way from Ibraïla to Galatz-everywhere were ships, boats, and enormous rafts, like those of the Rhine. On the Moldo-Wallachian bank suddenly rise lofty cliffs of a very picturesque character. On the 17th of October we entered the quarantine of Galatz, which had no other comforts to offer us but an earthen pot and two straw mats. wretched as a prison was a simile formerly used to denote the most miserable of all possible lodgings-henceforth let it be "as wretched as a quarantine."

"

"As

C. A. J.

BRITISH INDIA.-No. II.

PENANG-THE HILL, THE BIG TREE, AND THE WATERFALL. AFTER Glugur, the three points of attraction to the stranger in Penang are "the Hill" (as it is called, in contradistinction to the numerous other hills in the island, from its being the highest, and its summit being crowned with a flagstaff, a telegraph, a Government-house, convalescent bungalow, and a niche inhabited by the signal-serjeant), the Big Tree, and the Waterfall-all three in their way worthy of attention, and well worth a dollar's ride in a "shigrampo." The hill, from its great height, enjoys the reputation of being ten degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the plain, and of being more salubrious in all other respects; hence the few buildings on its summit are seldom tenantless, and signal-serjeant has ample occupation on his hands, telegraphing to the lower regions the wants and wishes, and sometimes the emergencies of the invalid gentlemen and ladies in the convalescent bungalow. The doctor, from his domicile, can, with the aid of a spyingglass, distinguish the movements of the arms of the telegraph, and argues from them the necessity of a jaunt up the hill or otherwise. I was not initiated in the private code of Penang signals, but imagine that when one arm of the telegraph pointed up it denoted "the doctor is wanted up;" and when both arms, "the doctor is wanted immediately," and so on.

Whenever the then governor of the Straits visited Penang, which he did once a year as regularly as clockwork, His Excellency spent much of his time on the Hill, which then became of more than usual attraction; and those that were in his good graces, as a great many were, used to pass many agreeable evenings in his amiable society. On these occasions sunset, which invariably caps the tops of the Hill with a thick cloud, like a giant nightcap, was the signal for closed doors and windows, light mirth and hilarity. His Excellency usually retired to bed punctually at ten o'clock, leaving his many guests to enjoy themselves to what hour they pleased; quiet, gentlemanly amusements passed the evenings merrily, and a

refreshing night's sleep in the elevated and cooler atmosphere of the Hill crowned the festivities with health. Invalids on sick certificate from all parts of India, who had quitted their stations in a rapidly-sinking state, with highly-inflamed livers and attenuated forms, proved provokingly healthy to their expectant juniors in the regiment, who had calculated on the certainty of a step, and returned to their brother-officers, after a few months' absence, with a new lease of their lives and an unconscionable appetite.

Residents at Penang, who are accustomed to occasional jaunts up the Hill, and happen to know the discomforts attending a long steep ascent in a palanquin-carriage or on foot, have their own or hired ponies posted at the bottom of the Hill, and, driving as far as this in carriages, mount and ride up. Even then, in some parts the ascent is so steep that you feel for all the world as if you were riding on the pony's tail, and feel anxiously interested in the security of the girths; and as to coming down again, the sexsation is hideous beyond description, any false step of the animal entailing inevitable destruction. For my own part I always preferred walking down, and that behind the rest of the company, lest any man or pony might miss his footing and include me in the catastrophe.

The last time I visited the Hill there was more than a usual number of strangers in Penang, and the harbour was full of shipping. We made up a kind of joint-stock-company affair, and started bent on a day's adventure and amusement. Our party consisted of officers, doctors, civilians, navy men, skippers of merchant ships, and some others of no particular calling or profession. We had appointed a rendezvous or starting point the previous evening; hired a sufficient number of "shigrampos," and posted a ditto of ponies at the foot of the Hill. Accordingly at the given hour we congregated, and started before sunrise in a small fleet of carriages, under convoy of a middy, who preferred horseback to our means of conveyance. Nothing occurred en route to damp our spirits or abate the ardour for a day's enjoyment. On the outsides of the carriages were large hampers, liberally stocked with eatables and drinkables, and everybody inside had a provision of telescopes, fowling-pieces, pocket-compasses, portfolios, and other imaginary indispensables for such a vast undertaking. The dew hung heavily from the densely-planted trees of the miniature jungle, whose tops were gilded with the golden light of the rising sun as we neared the foot of the lofty mountain; and the brave young middy in charge of the convoy rode gallantly up to the side of our carriage, with a face highly inflamed from violent exercise, and a pair of white ducks sadly besmeared with dust, to report land ahead, and shortly after we descended from the vehicles and mounted the nags.

Our troop was a very motley one indeed. Some rode with long cavalry stirrups, their feet every now and then coming in awkward contact with a bush or a stone; others again were the very reverse, and, with their knees nearly up to their shoulders, threatened at each successive jolt to pitch over the pony's head, or knock their teeth down their throats by coming in smart contact with the kneecaps. Bluff old skippers, who had scarce mounted a horse a dozen times in their lives, jogged on, all smiles and contentment, with a huge telescope under one arm, and the hand of the other holding on like grim death to the reins and the saddle, either of which they would on no consideration let loose for a moment. Thus proceeded the cavalcade, slowly but surely, the rear being brought up by

the various godawales, each carrying a hamper of provisions on his back. There was no mishap and no interruption, except when we came to one part of the road where the ascent was abominably steep and slippery; and here one old skipper, who said that the craft was too much by the stern to sail securely, dismounted and scrambled up the distance as best he could, his example being followed by almost all the party. At length we reached our destination, and found ourselves at the very summit of the highest hill in the island. The prospect on every side was sublime beyond description the sun had not yet attained sufficient height to wax unpleasantly warm ; and the lights and shades of the different points of view were indeed picturesque in the extreme. Below us was the pretty little town in miniature, the garden-house, plantations, drives, walks, parade-ground: in short, we had a bird's-eye view of everything, the harbour and shipping included; and it did not take the nautical portion of our company long to pick out, with the aid of the spying-glasses, not only their respective vessels, but the faces and forms of individuals on board, and to keep a lookout on their movements. The inexperienced, however, could only distinguish little Lilliputian figures moving to and fro. Beyond the harbour the eye embraced an extensive view of Province Wellesley and the Malayan peninsula. Looking towards Singapore, there were islands, and the low land, and the waters of the Straits as smooth as a millpond, with numerous little specs in various directions, which were reported to be vessels of different descriptions. Towards the west there was a vast expanse of ocean: here also were several vessels, all apparently becalmed, and the then rather novel spectacle of a steamer, whose white smoke contrasted palpably with the spotless blue sky and ocean. Behind us was the signalserjeant, all bustle and a bundle of flags, running to and fro in the greatest excitement; now hauling down, now hauling up, now getting the ropes entangled, and imploring aid despairingly.

About an hour before sunset we take a reluctant leave of our sick friends, who pause over a dose of the infallible mixture to bid us farewell; we descend the mountain mostly on foot-one or two nervous gentlemen, who, in the rapid-gathering haze of evening, think they see a tiger, but the report proves a false alarm, it was only a wild cat glaring from a dark bush-we regain our carriages half an hour before sunset, and we reach our starting point in the morning just as the dark night closes in round us, very well contented with the day's exploit, and full of many recollections about what such and such a one said or did.

THE BIG TREE OF PENANG.-The big tree is decidedly the greatest lion in Penang to wonder-loving sightseers. It is unique of its kind, none other of the same species having been yet discovered; and the small valley in which it grows abounds with wild mountain scenery. An hour's quick riding deposits us at the foot of this forest prodigy; and the first thing that attracts attention is the amazing number of names, initials, and dates that have been deeply cut through the bark of the tree, as lasting records of the exploit performed by the many visitors that have at various periods been here. Having with great difficulty deciphered several scores of names and initials, the dates attached to some of which readily account for their being nearly obliterated, we seat ourselves under the tree, so as to contemplate its colossal dimensions at leisure, and so fall into a train of deep thought. First we wonder how many years the tree has been in attaining to its present height, and how and when and by whom it was first discovered and brought into notice; or why it should be the solitary

specimen in the island, and not have buds and flowers and seed like other creatures of the vegetable kingdom; or, if it has, why a small colony of young trees should not have sprung up around, or even from seeds scattered to some distance by the tempest winds? Then we are lost in astonishment

at the singular formation of the tree itself: huge and bulky at the stem, then gradually tapering off finer and finer, till at length it assumes the shape and slimness of a frigate's topmast, and not the slightest notch or mark the whole way up of any branch or branches having ever existed, except those which are now to be seen, and which only spread out from the very top of the tree, in the same way as table candelabras sometimes do. Then these considerations lead to the inore serious reflections as to the likelihood of one of the lofty branches giving way to the strength of the wind that is blowing up there (though it is a perfect calm down where we are), and the likely results of such a calamity to ourselves; and