CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PRELIMINARY.

Retrospect-Assam Tea for Thibet-Start for Calcutta-The 'Clan

Alpine' - Fire! Fire! Struggle for Boats - Brave Chinese

Women-The Steamer Saved-Ships' Boats

CHAPTER II.

A SPORTING EPISODE.

Indian Oriental Character-Introduction to Lord Mayo-The Viceroy

on Trade-routes—A Shooting Expedition—The Camp-Pig-

sticking--Chase of a Leopard-A Brave Old Boar-My First

Tiger-A Desperate Charge-The Wounded Mahout-Return .

CHAPTER III.

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13

PREPARATIONS.

Trade-routes - A

Mules Wanted

The Calcutta Chamber of Commerce-Rival

Liberal Vote-Government Expeditions.

Hurdwah Fair-My own Muleteer-Hoaxing a Landlord-Start

for Assam

CHAPTER IV.

KOOSHTEAH TO GOWHATTY.

--

-The Raj-

The Bramapootra-Serajgunge-Change of River-bed-

mahal-Proposed Companion-Partnership of Explorers--Croco-

diles Water Snakes - Gwalpara― Gowhatty—Wants of a

Station ..

33

44

CHAPTER V.

GOWHATTY TO DEBRUGHUR.

Umanander-Tezpoore-Annual Fair-A Sudden Flood-A Dan-

gerous Night-Wild Buffaloes -- Dikhoo Mookh - Mosquitoes

and Mules-Debrughur .

CHAPTER VI.

UPPER ASSAM.

Unexpected Delay-The Wet Season-Assamese Calamities-Depo-

pulation-The Cooly Question-Mistaken Legislation-A Tea

Plantation - Cultivation of Tea - Manufacture-Ruins-Buton

Quail-Parrots

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CHAPTER VII.

SHIKAR IN NORTHERN ASSAM.

A Watch for a Leopard — Disappointed — Plantation Law-Wild

Elephants - The Taming Process-Buffalo Stalking - The

Forest-Khoonkies-The Elephant and Mhitton

CHAPTER VIII.

THE ASSAMESE.

Fever-Bosser Fishing-The Assamese People- Habits-Houses—

Dress-Religion - Morals - Opium-Difficulties of Repressing

Opium Traffic-Experiences in China- Popular Mistakes-

Preparations for a Start

CHAPTER IX.

DEBRUGHUR TO SUDIYA.

Our Dugout-The Domes-My Blanket Tent-Skilful Navigation—

The Pobah-The Camp-Pobah Stockade-The Sahib's Tree-

The Dehong River-Mullet Fishing-A River Scene-Forest

Echoes.

CHAPTER X.

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96

109

SUDIYA.

The Frontier Post-Break of the Rains--My Abor Visitors--Panic

in the Bazaar-The Abor Tribe-Frontier Wild Tribes-The

Pension System-Chinese Policy--Visit from a Tiger-Our New

Interpreter-Wanted a Guide--The Khamtee 'Chief.

123

Contents.

CHAPTER XI.

THE KHAMTEE VILLAGE.

The Tenga-panee-Gregory Island-Mahseer Fishing-Chowsam's

Village Cool Reception- First Interview-Chowsam-Gin

and Politeness-The Chief's Consent Gained-Khamtee People—

Clan System-Houses-The Virgins' House- The Bachelors'

House-Morals-Customs-Social Laws-Return

Native Officials-Chowsam's Terms-Return to Tenga-panee--Plea-

sant Reception - Bachelors' Quarters-The Priest and his

Omens-Attacked by Monkeys-Torchlight Fishing-A Pastoral

Visit Our Coolies-The Departure-The Medicine Chest—

Farewell Addresses-My Elder Brother

CHAPTER XIII.

THE BRAMAKUND.

Frontier Forests - Hulluk Monkeys -- Mhitton-Land Leeches —

Honey Hunting--The Buffalo Bull -- Camlang-panee—Trying

the Sahib--A Night in a Nullah--Edible Beetles-The Brama-

kund-Sacred Fish-Mishmee Message-The Mishmee Tribes-

Chullah Cottahs-Degaroos-Dress-Arms-Ornaments › .

CHAPTER XIV.

THE MISHMEE HILLS.

Difficult Travelling--The Negro Interpreter-Waxed Meal - Short

Commons - Mishmee Pork-Kunsong - Mishmee Houses--

Heads-The Brahma-panee-Rope Bridges-The Landslip--

Supply of Fish-Chief Poso-Leech-bites-The Chief's Jester-

A Churlish Host-Mishmee Demons

CHAPTER XV.

CHRISTMAS WITH THE MEJUS.

A Dangerous Reckoning — The Negro Disarmed — Ill Feeling

Fever Chief Discouraged-Pushing on-My Bearers -Khamtee

Kindness-Kaysong-A Welcome Pig-Mishmee Improvidence

—Mode of Living—Hospitable Host-The Mysterious Guest—

An Unwelcome Message-A Deep Plot-Larking—A Christmas

Feast.

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CHAPTER XVI.

THE BOUNDARY MOUNTAIN.

Highest Elevation-The Teta Plant-A Grand Prospect-A Cold

Night - A Meeting-Envoys from Roemah-Prohibition to

Advance-The Dog and Knife-Thibetan Officials on the Alert-

A Parley-Bulldogs and Jungnah - Must we go Back? — A

Concession-Thibet Closed-The Camli Village-A Nocturnal

Alarm-The Spied Spy-The Barricade-The Advance-Sin-

gular Monuments-The Prun Village-Mishmee Villages-The

Plundered Traders - Bowsong --Curious Greeting - A Sahib's

Word Courteous Welcome-New Year's Eve

CHAPTER XVII.

THE COUNCIL OF CHIEFS.

Mine Host-Killing a Yak-Mishmee Marriages-The Price of a

Wife-Ceremonials - Social Laws-Religion - Philip and the

Thibetans-The Khamtee Traders-Respect for the Chief-Our

Officials-Assemblage of Chiefs-Bowsong's Oration—Difficult

Questions—A Dangerous Dilemma-Pacific Conclusion—Depu-

tation of Chiefs to Sudiya-Peace with the Mejus-Road-making

-Brick Tea for Thibet-Seng-Song-True Hospitality--Rifle

Practice-A Lucky Shot-My Lame Ankle-The Soothsayer's

Prescription-Homewards

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CHAPTER XVIII.

THE RETURN.

The Dehong and the Tsan-po-Joined by Bowsong- A Surgical

Operation-A Painful March-Gomarshee Berries-Recross the

Boundary-Ticks-The Negro Again-A Close Shave-Unable

to Walk-Welcome Pomeloes--A Herd of Elephants--A Tiger's

Serenade Hair Leeches - Chowsam's Village - Triumphant

Entrance-Voyage to Sudiya-Wild Dogs-Circling a Deer-

An Assamese Thunderstorm-Huge Hailstones - Welcome

Back to Sudiya-Arrival of the Chiefs-Departure for Calcutta-

Home

APPENDIX

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