fairly hot, and be thoroughly basted. As soon as the outside is browned it should be covered with greased paper, which must be removed just before serving and the joint frothed in the usual way.

In cooking poultry or game in a close range, place them breast downwards in the pan, not on the trivet, and cover the breasts with dripping an inch thick and place a good-sized piece in their insides, as that will render them tender and succulent.

If meat is solid and without bone, it will take twenty minutes to the pound to roast. In summer it takes a little longer time than in winter, and frozen meat should be kept in a warm kitchen for three hours before it is roasted.

Whilst roasting, meat should be protected from a draught, and therefore a screen should be placed round it. Liberal basting makes all the difference. There is a scientifically constructed machine for roasting called the 'Royal Roaster,' which I can most confidently recommend. The principle is the steam arising from whatever is being cooked is again absorbed into the food, and consequently this roaster is self-basting (see Plate II.). As there is no evaporation, no drying up, or burning, there will be no shrinkage or waste as with an open pan. After the roaster is put in the oven no attention is required-no watching, no basting or turning-it is most friendly to lazy cooks as well as a great help to every cook; is made in several sizes and is very inexpensive. For those persons who do not mind expense and like everything roasted in front of the fire, especially poultry and game, which I always insist on for

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myself, the Tournebroche à Fumée' is invaluable, an illustration of which is given. (See Plate VII.) It roasts and bastes at the same time; it is wound up by clockwork; the bird turns round and a spoon revolves and bastes. It is an admirable contrivance, but it is too expensive for most establishments, as the lowest price is 37. some shillings. Anyone can see it at work at the Atmospheric Churn Company in Bond Street, and I often go and look at it from sheer envy, as I do not possess one.

The test of a joint being well cooked is that the steam draws to the fire.

Boiling. To boil, the great factor is not to let the meat boil. When the water in a saucepan bubbles at the top and steams, it is boiling.

Simmering is keeping the water nearly boiling, little tiny bubbles every now and then coming up at the edges, and it should never be allowed to go beyond this state. In boiling mutton it should be put into fast boiling water and allowed to boil for five minutes to make the outside hard and to prevent the juices escaping. Just sufficient cold water should be added to reduce the temperature, and then brought again to the boil, and when on the point of boiling skimmed carefully, then drawn to the side of the stove and let simmer slowly.

The meat should only be just covered with water. Boiling time ought to be from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes to the pound of meat from the time the water boils.

Bacon, pork, and ham should be put into cold water and brought gradually to simmering-point.

Turkeys, fowls, rabbits, &c., should be placed in warm water and then simmered.

Frying. The first thing in frying is to have a very clear bright fire and to see that the frying-pan is perfectly clean. A deep frying-pan such as the 'Crown Fryer'1 (see Plate II.); the bottom is made of asbestos, so that nothing can burn in it, and it has, as will be seen, a wire fryer inside, so that what is fried can be lifted out quickly. When fat is hissing in the pan, nothing should be put into it until it leaves off and smokes.

All things egg-and-bread-crumbed should be made two hours before being fried; stale bread should always be used for bread-crumbing. Meat should be frequently turned and the pan shaken during frying to promote evaporation of the watery components.

Everything fried should be drained the moment it is taken out of the pan; a wire sieve with a piece of blotting-paper placed over is the best drainer.

Stewing is the most economical and best mode of cookery if properly managed; it has this advantage, that pieces of meat which are in any way tough by stewing become tender and nutritious. The French are very much given to the use of the stewpan. In all good stewing the water should never be thrown away, as it contains nearly as much nutriment as the meat itself. To stew well, the meat should only be just covered with water; so many cooks object to its slow process, as, if properly cooked, it takes many hours and in some cases from one to two days.

'As the asbestos heats very quickly it is apt to get so hot, that when removed from the stove it should be placed on an iron stand.