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pulation had increased from six to fourteen | thatch fastened down with a cross work of thousand, without any addition to the de- straw-ropes. cent society of the place. Poor Scotch and Twenty-two to Hawick. Up a long windpoor Irislı made up the number, and the ing vale by the Euse and the Tiviot; which, place was swarming with poor, without why it was called pleasant Tiviotdale I did either manners or morals.
not understand, till the desolation beyond Some few of the carts had the old original taught me. Ten miles on the road is Mosswheels, as in the north of Spain ; one of paul Green inn, Roxburghshire, where a them we saw on the road, laid against a foot traveller might sleep. It stands in a bank for a style. Symptoms of Scotland long combe, the green hill on each side soon appeared—we met sheep drovers with sloping down, and meeting almost in a the common grey plaid scarft round them, point. This was a striking scene of pastoral and a woman walking bare foot and carry- solitude, a little scanty stream below. It ing her shoes. Arthuret church the last grew dark, but our horses pushed on well, English place of worship. Here Elmsley to keep company with some led ones, which once heard an evangelical tell his congre- had just passed us. Cross the Tiviot at gation that the road to hell was not the Hawick. Eleven to Selkirk, in the dark, safer for being well frequented. Just leav- but over a country where sunshine would ing Carlisle pass the bridges ; on the sands have been of no use. below the cattle market is held. Skiddaw At Langholme we had seen the first appeared in a new shape, and of more visi- symptoms of Scotch manners; the small ble magnitude from distance. Beyond it beer was bottled, and they gave us no cloth the ridge of the Borrodale mountains, and with our cold meat. Selkirk had the true I fancied—it must have been fancy, I think odor Scotic. We had a dirty room, behind —that Langdale was to be seen.
which I heard such long echoes, that being Cross the line and reach Longtown, nine. in a land of Bogles, I did not feel much A new town built in a double cross, in fact, inclined to investigate whence they pro. chiefly an appendage to the Graham estate, ceeded till the morning. Then we found and the work of that family. Prints of it was from a large ball room ; and here Curwen and Pitt were in the inn, and vile was kept a machine to measure militia men, aquatints of views near London, among this being the county town. which was one on Brixton Causey. Three Sunday, 6. Selkirk is truly a dismal miles on are two turnpikes, about fifty yards place. The houses all darkly rough cast, asunder, one in each kingdom. There the and made still more ragged by a custom of Scotchman is said by the story to make a painting the window out-frame work exfortune by taking a penny from each of his actly to the shape of the wood, which the countrymen who go to England, on con- carpenter always leaves without any attendition of paying a shilling when he returns. tion to squareness. These imperfect squares To Longholm, in Dumfriesshire, twelve, of dirty white, upon dirty rough cast, give along the Esk most part of the way, cross- a most dolorous appearance. A new town ing it once. So beautiful a road I do not house, with a spire, seemed to have no buremember anywhere out of the lake coun- siness in such a place. We went to the try. A clear, loud stream, fine woods, and kirk, and just walked through it; it had no fine shores. Past Gilnockie on the right, other floor than the bare earth. Some vile the castle of Johnny Armstrong Scotch daubings of Justice, Adam and Eve, &c. farms have an exterior of plenty, as having on the gallery front, its only ornaments, no barns. All their corn is in little ricks, where there had till lately been a picture ten, twenty, thirty, close to the house, of a Souter of Selkirk taking measure of a neatly enough shaped, and their conical fine lady's foot. In the kirkyard a square
mass of masonry, in which a door had lately | into a kirk. Miss Waugh showed me an been walled up. I took it for a vault above epigram which a friend of hers had stuck ground; but am told that tomb-chambers up in this abominable den of sacrilegious are not uncommon in Scotland. The peo- | Calvinism. ple dismally ugly, soon old, and then bossbent; but I liked the plaid, the gray plaid,
Mellrose, within thy sacred shrine
Angels might once have loved to dwell, either wrapping them in wind, or scarft
But now there's not a decent swine across in sunshine ; and I liked the bonnet. The clocks here are stopped by night.
Would quit his sty for such a cell.” Walked seven miles to Mellrose, first in Three windows are patched up with misersight of the Ettrick, then of the Tweed. able glass for this place of abomination; and Passed on the way a kirkyard, with a few to show that they are not in the right way, remains of the kirk, the ground being still one way in is through the window. I saw regarded as consecrated. The Scotch have steps leading up to one, and could not imaa great objection to lying in unhallowed gine for what purpose, till an old woman ground, and also to naming the Devil other- crawled up, pushed open a coarse wooden wise than by some periphrasis, usually, it plank, which served to fill up one half of seems, a complimentary one—as the Auld one division, and crept in. gude man is his common name.'
The tombstones are remarkable here; Mellrose at length appeared, its old abbey some as being well executed, others as a like a cathedral; to the right the Eldon hills, contrast to the fine taste of the ruin. There high and finely shaped; the Auld gude is the bust of a freemason, raised in a hollow man having broken them formerly to please frame, with the mystic signs of his craft, Michael Scott. The ruin it were hopeless upon one of the most remarkable. to describe-so wonderful is its beauty.? Returning, we saw the junction of the Certain masons in the neighbourhood boast Tweed and Ettrick, which we had before that they are descended from the builders, passed unnoticed. An old house stands the family have always been of the same near the angle of their junction, well cotrade, and continue to be the best in the vered with wood. country. The finest window is injured by Monday, 7. Seven miles to Ashiestiel, having placed the clock above it, which has Walter Scott's. We forded the Ettrick, cracked it above. Worse than this, they and soon came in sight of the Tweed, prohave converted the middle of the church ceeding along its banks, or in sight of them,
instead of crossing the bridge, which is the 1 From the Greeks downwards there has been
direct road to Edinburgh. Scott took us the same notion. The Furies were propitiated over the hills to see the Yarrow, a classic under the name of Eumenides ; on which, instar stream. It winds from a solitary and soromnium, see Müller's Eumenid. § 87. There can be no better illustration of this vale-more beautiful because all around it
rowful country. This a quiet and beautiful superstition than Sir Walter's own words in Rob Roy. Speaking of the Fairies,“ who if is so dreary. I forded it on foot, the water not positively malignant to humanity, were yet not being above my boots. The greyhounds to be avoided and feared, on account of their killed a young hare on the opposite shore, capricious, vindictive, and irritable disposition," odd as it may seem, the first I ever saw he puts into Baillie Nicol Jarvie's mouth these words, “ They ca’ them,” said Mr. Jarvis in a
taken. Newark castle stands on a little whisper, Daoine Schie, which signifies, as I knoll above the water, wooded on that side, understand, men of peace; meaning thereby to one of the old square towers of the old bormake their gude will.”– Vol. viii. p. 160, and der banditti. Some ten men were once shot note, p. 179.
a 'The reader will not forget Sir Walter Scott's within its court. In fact, every place here own description of Melrose.--J. W. W. has its tale of murder. We did not ask the
name of a single place without a story in Thursday 10th. Eight miles to Bank house, reply that somebody had been killed there. a single inn; nine to Middleton. In the Some cousins of Scott's came to dinner. kitchen here the grate stood out, not being
Tuesday, 8. Had Scott's horses not been fastened to the chimney back. We crost out of order, we should have gone to St. the South Esk and the North Esk. The Mary's Loch, from whence the Yarrow Pentland hills appeared on to the left, to proceeds, and where the flower of Yarrow the right Arthur's seat. Past through Lasis said to have lived. The boys still point wade and Dalkeith, and by Craig Millar out the scene of that tragedy. We there- Castle, a dirty coal road; the city where fore merely walked up the river to Elibank we entered dirty and dismal also. castle, another of the square towers. They Friday 18th. By stage to Carlisle. Saw a are carrying away its ruins to build a broken chamberpot used as a beehive; exbridge upon the adjacent road to Peebles. cellent Scotch economy! That part of the The young laird of this place was taken in road which we lost by going to Ashiestiel one of his marauding parties by the Scotts, very beautiful. Selkirk looked well on the who were about to hang him, but the old hill, with its townhouse spire, before we lady of the clan offered him her daughter, crost the Ettrick. Beyond Hawick we past Wide-mouthed Meg, as an alternative. He Branksome close on the right, Tiviot flowpreferred hanging ; but his heart failed him ing close on the other side of the road; it when the halter was put round his neck, is the Cheviot hills which we cross between and Meg with her wide mouth was con- this place and Langholme. Dined at Hawick, veyed as his bride to Elibank, where the and bought a red nightcap and cravat there marriage was celebrated; she was an excel- to travel in, things for which the town is lent wife.
famous. Delayed there for the late arrival Wednesday 9th. Went salmon-spearing of the coach from Carlisle; a miserable on the Tweed, being the last day of the journey with foundered horses from Langsport. I had a spear, and managed one side holme the rest of the way, so that we did of the boat. I saw the sport without par- not arrive till half-past two in the morning, taking of it. Three were taken, being all baving been nineteen and a half hours. we saw. One had the mark of an old wound Saturday 19th. Parted with Elmsley, and in his back, a cruel sport, though of all set off on foot, a long straight road through fishing the best. The savage grin of joy in a flat country, till I came near Dalston, one of the men, when stooping down till where there is an old hall, a very pictuonly his chin was above water, (he had got resque building; the Caldes here has left & salmon by the tail, Scott's spear being more marks of inundation than I ever saw through the creature's nose,) would have elsewhere; it must be a most ungovernable been in character for a Dog-ribbed Indian. stream. Through Hawksdale up to Warne A Mr. Marriot came to dinner, an Oxonian Fall. I had been directed to make for Ul. tutor to some lordling near. He talked of dale, but here found Caldbeck so near, that having seen the track of a horseman on the I took that road in preference. Saw the hill; and I found that, as in a savage coun- Hook once more, though almost dry. Took try, the inhabitants here can tell by the track bread and cheese at Hesketh New Market. what horse has past, and how long ago. Our Three portraits on board in the little inn, evening might have done for old times; he, of what nation I could not guess; the face I and Scott reciting ballads : his was a de- not very unlike a Chinese, but certainly not plorably bad business upon Purlin Jane, Chinese; they were women, and so alike, made by I know not whom. Scott repeated that I conclude they were sisters. The head some of Hogg's, the Ettrick shepherd, who dress as here in Charles the Second's days, is a man of genius.
but with outlandish ornaments appended to the hair, and the drawing evidently not LORD CARRICK ( ) was lately benighted European. Here also a coarse print of the at Seatoller, and got a night's lodging attree of Fortune; she is shaking the tree, Fishers; the good woman put him in her standing in it, and men below catching what own bed, and he expressed himself perfalls, bags of money, axes, halters, wives, fectly delighted at seeing that rural con&c. Home by Mosedale, under Carrack tentment and happiness which, till now, he Fell, Bowskeli Fell, and Souter Fell to had only heard of. In the morning, he said Threlkeld.
how well he had slept, &c. : “ I have slept in many houses,” said he,“ but never was more hospitably entertained, and in all my
life I never slept under so fine a quilt. I Cumbrian Customs, g-c.
have been trying to find out what manuIt was believed that any married woman factory it is, but all to no purpose; in all whose married name was the same as her my life I never saw anything like it, nor so maiden one, might prescribe at hazard for fine.” “Lord help ye,” says the old dame, the hooping (here called the king) cough, “ manufactory indeed! I made it myself; and that be the prescription what it would, 'tis patch work, bits of the children's gowns, its success was certain. The same held good and of my own that I sowed together." of a person riding on a piebald horse. Jackson being once so mounted, was stopt by a As the oat harvest was carrying home, I man with this salutation, “Honest friend of saw yesterday two carts, with each a scare a pyebald horse, tell me what's good for crow stuck in it, ghastly figures enough, the king cough ?"
looking, at a little distance, just as one
should wish to see Joseph Bonaparte make APPLE or pear laking? is still practised; his entrance into Madrid. — Sept. 18th, last week there was one at Portinscale. It 1808. is merely this, whoever has either fruit to sell and cannot readily find a market, pro- St. CRISPIN, October 25th, is kept here claims an apple laking, that is, a dance to by the shoemakers. Masters and men go out which all who like go, and every one paying hunting, and have a supper of “ roast goose threepence, fourpence, or sixpence, receives and such like" on their return. They rest in return a proportioned number of apples. from work on this day, because they say
Christ rested on his way to Calvary at a
shoemaker's stall. This evening (1808), a The Borrowdale people used formerly to
boy who followed them out, has been stormcome down every summer and clear away the bar at the junction of the Greta and struck, and was brought home to all appear
ance dead; he is, however, restored. Derwent, in the latter river. Philosopher Banks, just dead, remembered to have been began to rain about nine in the morning, at this work, which prevented foods.
and so heavy a storm I scarcely ever remember, as has been raging without inter
mission till this time (seven o'clock). The The fiddlers at Ambleside used to play floods are already very deep. before the people as they came out of church on Christmas day, and so go round the THERE is a shaft called the Wad? hole parish.
near White Water Dash. Foxes frequent
it. LAKE v. to play. Sax. lacan ludere. Mæs. Got, laikan, exultare. Piers Ploughman, layke. -LAKING, S, a plaything. BROCKETT's Gloss. 2 Wad is the Cumbrian name for black-lead.
J. W.W. A wad-pencil is a black-lead pencil. -J. W. W. APPLEBY is one of the prettiest towns makers at work; the fields, some covered I ever saw; a long wide street of steep with newly fallen grass, others with the bay ascent, with the market house at bottom, in cocks, and yet the grass which had been and church behind it, and the castle at the just cut, brightly green. It was very hot; top. The keep is ancient, and has merely that house with the old sycamores, which been kept in repair; most of the other parts we see on the left before us in descending are little more than a century old. There into the vale, appeared an enviable spot, so are the pictures of the Earl of Cumberland delightful did their deep shade appear ! (George, in Elizabeth's days), and his fa- Very, very hot; not a breath of air, and the mily; and several of the famous Countess flies followed us all up the side of Wanof Pembroke. And there is the earl's ar- thwaite, to the very highest point; henceforth mour, a beautiful suit inlaid with gold. We I will carry a fan. The great mogul himwere surprised at its apparent shortness, self, if he travelled here, must be his own which I explained to my own satisfaction fly-flapper. We obtained an accession of by observing that it exceeds the breadth of these tormentors in passing a party of kine, the human figure, but not its heighth. It is many of whom had got within a sheepfold very fine to walk on the terrace of this cas- for the sake of its little shade ; the flies tle, with the Eden below, and see the rooks' seemed to prefer man-flesh to beef. Certes nests on a level with you, so steep is the a gig might travel this road. Saddleback declivity.
is seen to more advantage hence than from Brougham castle is a very fine ruin, and any other point; its deep ravines, with all the view from it of the near junction of the the strongest colourings of light and shade. Eden and Lowther, with Carlton (Wallace's Skiddaw assumes a new form. Down Mahouse), and its park, exceeding beautiful. terdale is very fine; to come up it is far
WORKINGTON. In the church is a large At Araforce, one or two deer are lost altar-piece, painted by a man of the town. every year; being accustomed to cross the On the first Sunday that it was opened, the Beck, they attempt it when the torrent is people were greatly surprised to recognize too strong, and are carried down the fall. one another's portraits, which the artist, Poor Charles got one of his bilious atunknown to them, had adopted for his fi- tacks. I was obliged to leave him in bed, gures; two ladies of the place were the and went with Richards and a boy, whom angels. The poor man's hopes were disap- Luff sent to guide us up Place Fell, to Angle pointed! they were not gratified at being Tarn. The ascent commands Paterdale. thus immortalized by an unskilful hand, and The Tarn is about two and a half miles from he probably made the picture worse by en- Paterdale. We guest it at about a mile deavouring to destroy the likenesses. round. It has two islands, and a peninsula,
The organist has lately been dismissed ; which, from many points of view, appears and in consequence, the organ has been in- like a third. The shores are not high, but jured by some of his friends.
finely formed, and you see the mountains Workington is a very ugly town, and above them, forming as it were a second might have been a very fine one.
boundary, with an outline very similar in
form. About two miles or something less July 20th, 1809. THROUGH Materdale to Hayes Water, lying under High Street ; with Danvers to Paterdale. Scarcely ever its shape a cove intersected by a straight did I see any thing so fine as the Vale of St. line, beautifully clear. Luff told us, after John's. Wanthwaite, and that whole range we returned, what he should have told us was in deep shade (seven o'clock). Naddle before, that at the head are a number of and the valley in bright sunshine; the hay- small cones, perfectly formed, and covered