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Friday. Totness eight. The road affording EXETER. Mr. Grainger's garden is sinprospects worth looking at, and fine where gular in its kind. It is in the Castle ditch, it crosses the Dart. Totness is a neat town, and this accident has been made the most which spread very finely as we looked back of. It is well planted with many and noble upon it. The right way to see the country trees. There is the finest poplar that I reis to go by water to Dartmouth; but we member. I have also seen the pictures of were too late for the boat, and were there- Mr. Abbot, an apothecary here. I never fore compelled to walk ten miles along a saw better landscapes ; finished even with road heavy, uninteresting, and objectless, Dutch niceness, yet good in effect; interestbut not flat, for the calves of my legs suf- | ing in every part, yet fine wholes. He fered most Procrustian extension up the seems to have studied nature with uncomhills.
mon care and success. His shadows are Dartmouth is a strange and beautiful particularly fine,-not the vulgar black of place. The river is broad, some half or painters, but ever partaking of the colour three quarters of a mile to the opposite town, of the object. Kingswear. The hills not high enough, The corporation used to compel people but yet beautiful. The walk to the Fort to keep their doors clean. Twelvemonths leads along the waterside by a terrace, for since it was discovered that they had no authe town is built high. By moonlight we thority to do this, and now the people will
not clean away the dirt, because they can't Saturday. Crossed the Dart to Brixham, force us to." five. Torbay is shored with red sandbanks. At Exeter is a choice collection of water. We were wearied with its insipidity, and colour drawings, in the possession of Mr. struck for Newton Bushell sixteen. Patch. The two masterpieces of Paine are
Sunday. Exeter fourteen. The walk af- there, and some incomparable pieces by forded some Devonshire views, that is, ex- Smith, Turner, and Pococke. tensive scenes in which the eye found no
HONITON sixteen. The vale rich and beauone object to rest upon.
tiful. Axminster nine. Bridport twelve. By Newton Bushel we saw a board, “Man
Dorchester sixteen. A hideous country, culTraps and Spring Guns are tilled' in this
tivated without enclosures, the hills scored Garden." Tilled, therefore, is prepared,
with furrows like roast pork. Wareham ten, made ready.
dreary and desolate. Poole ten. Christ Devonshire has been overpraised. The
Church fourteen. hills are high, angled over with hedges, but no wood. A new country that had no TUESDAY, October 29. Ringwood eight. forests would look like it. They are high Rumsey seventeen. On the way is the Picked enough to fatigue, and yet not enough to Post, an extra-parochial alehouse, where unexcite admiration. The rivers make the married women go to lie in, out of the reach beauty of this county,—clear, melodious, of the constables. There is also on this road down-hill streams. Its great merit is Clou- an oak, once venerated, and still visited, beted Cream, of which I make honourable cause it buds on Christmas day. An open mention !
country, some of the forest scenery fine. Winchester eleven, in part through the fo
rest. The cathedral has more to admire than 1 It is from the A. S. tilian, to prepare. Todd quotes aptly the lines of Browne,
· The garden at Eccleshall Castle, the Palace “ Nor knows he how to dig a well, of the Bishop of Lichfield, is also in the ditch. Nor neatly dress a spring :
It was the admiration of poor Bishop Butler, Nor knows å trap or snare to till." and I am not likely to for geta bed of Gladioli
J. W. W. he pointed out to me there.-J. W. W.
any I have seen, and Milner has described | formed a semicircle round the fire, admitit with catholic feeling.
ting light only by the way in, which was in Wednesday, 30th. Southampton twelve. the middle. Of course the visitants within Some fine forest views. This is a town which could see to do nothing but smoke and drink. nothing but the folly of fashion could have An old peasant came in, and called for beer. made famous. A muddy river, and flat He opened upon us with ignorant Jacoshores, rather bushy than wooded. The binism, but it was honest, and the man, though gateway is fine, but it is an unpleasant and with some strange notions about the Union imposing place.
and the wool, was a strong-headed man. This Thursday, 31st. Ringwood twenty. En- language was no novelty in the alehouse. I tering the Rumsey road at Stoney Cross had overheard a low conversation between again.
the two women of the house, upon the pro
priety of removing a print from the wall of Monday, April 14, 1800.
a certain personage, whose head somebody From Bristol to Old Down, sixteen. A had cut out one day. Upon enquiry, this hilly and little interesting road. Seven to spirit was not wonderful. The war which Wells. The cathedral fine in the view, and enriches Plymouth and the farmers of Dethe Tor. Glastonbury, six, a town quite vonshire, oppresses the poor heavily; the unmodernised, beautiful by its ruins and country is stripped for the fleet; butter was churches, and dear by all feelings of reve- ls. 6d. per pound, meat 8d. and 9d. in this rence and chivalry. Bridgewater, sixteen. village, twenty miles from the bay! The Taunton, twelve.
peasantry are the sufferers, because they Tuesday, 15th. Six to Wellington,-an- cannot retaliate by raising the price of their tiqua sedes Southeyorum. Twelve to Culo labour. If they will not work for what their lumpton, one of those towns where the inn- employers choose to give them, they must keepers have enough business to make them starve. procure good accommodations, and not A very decent soldier joined us in the enough to render them negligent. Twelve alehouse; a marine of the Le Loire frigate, to Exeter. Nine to Chudleigh. It was fair. returning from a visit to his family at DursThree hundred and twenty French prisoners ley, in Gloucestershire. This man, too, had were looking at the merriment through the in his family felt the pressure. We made wooden bars of their temporary prison. them very happy by paying their shillingThey were crowded like brutes. I learnt worth of drink. The old man was delighted, they were on the way to Bristol. Ashbur- and would give his tobacco-box in return. ton, nine. The rivers in Devon are beau- There was written upon it, “Unity, Peace, tiful, but only the rivers. Old mince-pie and Trade.” If ever he saw it again, he bridges, dangerously narrow.
should know me. It was not easy to avoid Wednesday, 16th. Detained to have an his present. This man wished the fleet sunk, old chaise patched. Our horses were foun- so much did he perceive the burthen. Our dered. The fleet was in Torbay, and of horses arrived, -a pair who, as we learnt course this was a miserable time for the
upon meeting the stage, by a dialogue bepoor beasts. At three miles from Ashbur-tween the two drivers, had been foundered ton they stopped, and could proceed no far- yesterday. We rode in pain ; every stroke ther. The driver was cruel and obstinate, of the whip was a conscience-blow. It was but the animals wanted power, and this, an abuse of power, a tyrannous cruelty to more than my exertions, succeeded in mak- the brute creation. The crazy chaise was ing him return for other. We the while en- forgotten in this stronger feeling. But tered the kitchen of a little alehouse. The crack, and down! a gentle, and broken, and wooden bench was well contrived there; it | harmless fall. Its consequences were less pleasant; a mile and half walk through dirt we meet again ? He ran out and ordered and rain to Ivy Bridge. The stage is thir- the four horses, and Edith and he and I teen miles.
were immediately exhilarated. At Ivy Bridge we breakfasted. Walking New difficulties. The innkeeper had no into the garden with Edith, a voice behind, more horses; he had depended upon pro"God bless my soul !” It was Tom. He had curing them at the other inn, as it was to taken horse to meet us, breakfasted in the keep up the custom of the road. But he room adjoining us, and watched every chaise was a new comer, and the inns had quarthat drove to the door, but omitting to keep relled : they would lend no horses. At first, a look out for foot travellers. But for this from a pretence of pride, their horses should accident, he would have lost us. The bridge not be the leaders, to drag the other man's is ivied, but small, very small, a mere one- cattle as well as the chaise. Put them in arched brook bridge. The stream consti- the shafts then. No! The ostler referred tutes the beauty of this well-known spot. us to his mistress,ếhe would if she would. It rolls among huge stones adown a little The mistress rebutted us to her ostler,glen. The inn and several gentlemanlike- she would if he would, -backward and forlooking houses, where only cottages, and
ward. The woman was civil, but rogues those all quietness, ought to have stood, and liars all. At last the ostler swore that spoilt the scene. I was pleased and disap- Tomlins' cattle had the distemper. This pointed. To Plymouth, eleven. Some fine decided it. It would ruin her horses; they views in the last few miles. We saw the should not go in the way of the distemper docks, which excited in me no surprise, no for any sum whatever. I laughed with very pleasure. It was all huge,—a great deal of vexation, and Tom laughed, and we cursed power, and 3000 men, and God knows how Cornwall and its road-horses, and its roads, many thousand thousands of money, employed in now doing mischief.
I went back to the first innkeeper. “Look Mount Edgecumbe we did not cross to you! if you cannot take us on, I will go to It was pretty, but not what travellers re- the other inn, and take places in to-morrow's port. The people who so bepraise Devon- stage. Why are travellers to be delayed for shire, must either have come from Cornwall, your quarrels?” This last question was our or they have slipt through Somersetshire, language to both. It ended well. Tomlins, the country of real beauty.
a rascal, said the pair could take us very Thursday, 17th. Our Bristol chaise com- well; he had only recommended four as panion broke his engagement, and instead pleasanter travelling; two could do it with of coming to me to consult about our ar- ease. And this fellow had positively refused rangements, went on the water. We left to take us, not half an hour back; and even him, and crossed with Tom to Tor Point, demurred when Tom said he would not acin the Phæbe's boat. A chaise had been or- company us, and we had offered to walk up dered. We had no sooner set foot in Corn- every hill. * Now, mark me!" said Tom, wall than an attempt to impose upon us took we will all go; we will ride up the hills, place. The stage was long,-eighteen miles, if we please.” “ The horses can do it; I -the roads very bad,—we did not know warrant them ; I know they can do it.” Off how bad, our luggage was too much,—a we set. This Tomlins had been detected pair of horses could not draw us. I had been in purchasing stolen stores from the Mars, cautioned against this Cornish rascality, and kicked out of the ship, and ordered never resisted. Tom at last said he would give up to set foot in her again. Tom knew him then his journey with us to Liskard; but therefore. his heart failed him, and mine also. I was The road was rough, but only sixteen going to another country, and when should | miles, though charged eighteen. This false
and its rogues.
hood serves the double purpose of the overcharge, and a pretext for making travellers
Epitaph at Llanrwst. take four horses. We were in high spirits. “ PROPE jacet corpus Griffini Lloyd de The storins of the day had left a fresh and Brynniog olim Ludimagistri pleasant evening, literally and metaphori- Indigni Llanrustiensis nuper cally. The horses went with complete ease; Lecturarii Indignioris et Rectoris we seldom heard the whip. When we walk- Indignissimi Doegensis. Sepult ed, the driver would not,--not he! the Decimoquinto die Martis horses did not want to be eased. Tom
Anno Domini swore; I only laughed at the fellow's oddity.
1779. It was the pleasantest stage of the whole Nil de defuncto dic scribe journey. At Liskard we were put into the
Putave maligne." bar while our fire was kindled. I counted there forty-three punch-bowls, — positive punch-bowls,-forty-three-and the house was full at the time. Zounds! what punch At Rodney Stoke, between Wells and drinkers they must be in Liskard! and what | Cross, under Mendip, there is a cottage a consumption of lemons !
somewhat like the home of a novel-heroine. Friday, April 18th. Rundell arrived after A little white washed thatched house, with us at one in the morning. A new attempt a garden that shows there is wealth enough to make us take four horses. I called the to attend to ornament. Clean milk pails mistress of the house, and told her our Tor hung upon the rails ; a fine weeping willow Point story. This completely shamed her, overhung the road, or rather lane, and and she almost apologized. She did not under it a stream of water passed from the mean to impose,—she thought,—she was garden into a stone trough, for the village afraid, -she did not know,—it was hilly,– use. but if we came from Tor Point with a At the village Tom and I breakfasted in chaise- This was more knavish than even a clean little alehouse; some ornaments of Tomlins. The road was not very hilly, the twisted glass stood upon the chimneypiece. stage twelve miles only, and a road as good The grate was filled with reed blossoms, as any I ever travelled. Breakfast at Lost- which looked like plumes. A fellow came withiel. A pretty town. The Cornish all along selling “ Last dying speeches," and look clean with their slate roofs; and the I saw that he found customers. tower here is singular. Here we got restive horses, and a restive driver, who fought MR. RICKARDS, or Ricketts, near Stroud, them nearly two hours. Edith and Run- told me that as he was coursing or shooting dell walked back; it was but a mile. I in the neighbourhood of Llantrissiant, his paced the road, watched the brook, looked native place, he went to pass through what at the flowers, flung stones, did a thousand seemed a patch of red dirt. But his foot natural things, not to mention the non-na- sunk, and he fell, and to his infinite astoturals. Eight to St. Austel, a nothing-to- | nishment he found his leg burnt through be-said- about place. Fourteen, Truro. the boot, by which he was confined for many Twelve, Falmouth. The last twelve pretty, weeks. The place was out of all paths, and and through the uncouth streets of Penryn, only some old people knew that such a which seem made on purpose to take the ground-fire existed. traveller round as many acute angles, and up and down as many hills as possible in a October 4, 1805. KESWICK to Wigton, given distance. We found the packet in twenty-two. Above Bassenthwaite hills a the harbour.
new and fine view of the lake. Derwentwater
is hid behind Brandelow, over which the fells our boots. Two wooden grenadiers, in the behind Barrow rise, and over these again old uniform, are painted and cut out to those of Langdale. From hence a dreary their shape, one at the bottom of the stairs, country. Square inclosures on the distant the other on the landing place. hills, without a single tree. Uldale, a small Saturday, 5. Market day. Innumerable village on the right, before we reached carts of potatoes and sacks of wheat, indiIreby, one of those townlets where every cating plenty in the land. Saw the Cathething reminds you of the distance from dral, its tower would be poor for a parish London. We had soon a view of the plain church, and looks worse for standing on so below us, with Solway firth and the Scotch huge a pile. The inside is better than I mountains to the north. The plain ex- suspected; the old stalls remain, and are tended as far as we could see-a noble very fine, but a double row of pews disprospect—the more striking to us as we figure the choir; and the window, which came from the close mountain country. has to every compartment a border of Wigton a thriving town. To Carlisle eleven. orange-coloured glass, with corners of bright The coach days to Edinburgh are Monday, green, flings a glaring and ill assorted light. Wednesday, and Friday ; so we are thrown We noticed a remarkable arch over some out. To Glasgow only a mail at three every of the oldest tombs, which might be brought day, in which you have only the chance of in favour of the sylvan origin of Gothic a place.
architecture. A bough, whose lesser boughs At Wigton the houses are painted a nasty were thus lopped, and bent to an arch. dark red; the stone itself being reddish, There were four of these. Looking at this, and of a good colour. One of the coarse we were told that we stood upon Paley's common alehouse prints in the staircase grave. On a wooden closet which holds there was of the battle of Wexford. Miss the altar cushions, &c. boys had cut their Redmond at the head of the rebels. It names; we read those of Sawrey Gilpin, the looked as if the artist wished well to the horse painter, and of Robert Carlisle, the Irishmen. Near this place we saw one of artist. The lives of St. Austin, St. Antony the quadrangular farms common in Scot- the Great, St. Cuthbert, in a series of paintland, originally contrived for defence; the ings, had been whitewashed over at the outhouses surround or inclose the fold, and Reformation; but Percy had them recovered, the dunghill is in the middle of the court. as far as could be done. One compartment
The bed curtains at Carlisle were a good of Augustine’s life confirms the fact that the specimen of political freedom. General Devil keeps books; old Belzey has a huge Washington was driving American Inde- one, with great clasps, upon his back, and pendence in a car drawn by leopards, a it seems a tolerable load for him ; he is sayblack Triton running beside, and blowing ing “ Pænitet me tibi ostendisse librum." his conch, meant, I conceive, by his coronal Went to the castle. They have built a of plumes, to represent the native Indians. depositary for arms within its court, and In another compartment, Liberty and Dr. another for field pieces. The portcullis is Franklin were going hand in hand to the entire--the first I ever saw; the wood cased temple of Fame, where two little Cupids with iron. Called on the Miss Waight. were holding a globe on which America They have many excellent books, and an and the Atlantic could be read. The Tree excellent house. They showed us a porof Liberty stood by, and the Stamp Act trait of Lord William Russell's mother, reversed was bound round it.
when an infant, in miserable fine full dress, The waiter there was a Scotchman, un- with a ruff and a long strait waist. They commonly civil, he bowed as he asked if complained of the change in Carlisle since we would please to give him leave to clean the manufacturers had got there. The po