The choice of scions is regulated by the same rules as the choice of buds, only that in choosing scions some reference must also be had to the wood, which should have a sufficient thickness to keep it from getting dry easily, and to facilitate the operation of sloping the edges. The best buds are generally nearer the base of the shoot than the summit, but two or three scions may sometimes be got from a single shoot. No scion should be used when the buds upon it appear to have shrunk and lost their fulness, from having been laid by, and care should be taken on passing the bass ligament round the stock for the purpose of fixing the scions, that a piece of the bass be brought between the scions in such a manner as to protect the clift in the centre of the stock from the clay, and to leave the vacuum to be filled up with sap.

Should any graft fail, which will be seen in a longer or shorter space of time, according to the weather (viz., in moist, dull, growing weather it will soon show, in that which is dry, windy, or cold there will be delay), you have still the resource of knocking off the clay and reserving for use the fresh buds which start from the stock, in which case cut the stock off immediately above them, and bud in the following autumn as usual.

Grafting the Rose, however, leaves a worse wound to heal over than budding, unless the scion be nearly the same size as the stock, or two or three scions of free-growing sorts be entered in the same graft; there is also this disadvantage, that the portion of the scion that is entered in the stock is smooth, and consequently does not from time to time furnish new wood, whereas in budded Stocks, shoots occasionally spring from the inserted eye (and that sometimes years after it has taken), thus renewing the tree by preventing it from straggling, as well as giving it a more perfect and handsome appearance.

The advantages of grafting are, that it clears your garden of wildgrowing Stocks, promises fair for instant success, especially when the scions are from hardy sorts.

ON PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS.

BY COMMELINA.

As there appears to be no reply to the query of E. G. in February Number, page 37, I take the liberty of offering the result of amateur culture of the Plumbago Capensis for some years in a greenhouse of very moderate warmth.

E. G. does not tell us at what time last year he pruned his Plumbago Capensis. If he shortened the shoots of the same season, he probably cut off all the wood from which flowers might have been expected. The plant will answer well in common greenhouse heat under the following management :-After it has flowered, and when amateurs are putting their house in winter order, the straggling shoots should be shortened to within a few good eyes of the main stem. They will begin to push in February or March, and a little manure-water will then be of great use for some time. They require a good deal of peat in the soil, and good drainage.

TE have now arrived at a very important period of the year, and in a great measure the display of flowers in the following seasons, depends upon the provision now to be prepared. There is, therefore, a special demand upon the mind, and manual exertion too, to see that the proper kinds and quantities of seeds are sown, and plants in due preparation. Plans of flower-gardens, &c., should be sketched on paper, and the appropriate regulations for future arrangement and plants required be put down; this attention is of much assistance.

Last month was the best time for grafting shrubs, ornamental kinds of trees, as Thorns, Limes, &c., but any late-growing kinds that have been omitted may still be done; the earlier the better. The increase of Shrubs, &c., by layering, should be done as early as possible, such as Rhododendrons, &c.

Annuals, hardy, such as Clarkia, Nemophila, Larkspur, &c., may be sown in the open bed. The best method of sowing the small seeds in patches is to have a quantity of finely-sifted soil, spread a portion where desired; after scattering the seeds, sprinkle a proportionate portion over, and then press it closely upon them, which will assist a more early and certain vegetation. If strong frost occur, it is advisable to cover a garden-pot over during the night, and remove it in the morning. Seeds of Biennials, too, should now be sown in beds, such as Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Scabious, Canterbury Bells, &c. Also seeds of Perennials, as Phloxes, Campanulas, &c. Finish planting out Biennials and Perennials, and dividing large patches of border plants. Hollyhocks must be put in immediately; water them as soon as planted. Newly-budded trees, that is those budded last season, should be looked over, and if any portion of the stock be pushing shoots, they must be rubbed off, so that the entire strength should go to the new shoot engrafted.

AURICULAS. Give air freely on all suitable occasions, to prevent the flower-stems being drawn up weakly. They must, however, be protected against strong wind, dust, and frost especially. The blossoms will soon be opening, no water must be allowed to fall upon them, and they must be shaded from hot sun by canvas. A stage of shelves inclosed in a wooden frame or similar provision, having the bottom shelf two feet or so high, and gradually rising, &c., also to be properly shaded, is an erection indispensable to showing them to advantage.

POLYANTHUSES, too, require similar attention to the Auriculas. Neither kinds should be allowed to droop for want of water; and the stems, if by casualty they are too weak to sustain the truss, must be supported by a neat stick, &c.

PINKS.-If beds of them were not made in autumn, and omitted too last month, they ought to be done immediately, if required to bloom the coming season. A loamy soil, made of turfs a few inches thick, and well rotted, with an equal portion of old decayed cow-dung, is admirably adapted for their growth. It should be nine inches deep, and have a good drainage below. The plants must be removed with as much of the ball of soil as possible, and be planted six inches apart. High raised beds are not beneficial except in low wet situations. Where a compost, as above, is not at hand, six inches thick of old cowdung should be dug in with common garden soil. Protection from cold winds is necessary; this is readily done by a hedge of fir, yew, broom, or furze branches. Autumn-planted beds should be topdressed with a little rich soil, and the plants be made firm in their places; a few small sticks stuck around amongst the shoots will prevent twisting off.

RANUNCULUSES and ANEMONES.-When the plants make their appearance, and are risen an inch or two high, care must be paid to have the soil pressed closely around them with the hands, stopping up any holes made by worms, &c. A top dressing too of rich compost, free from wire-worm, is very beneficial. If common large worms exist in the bed, they may be collected by the hand at night, or pure limewater poured between the rows will kill the worms, and not injure the plants. If allowed to remain, they are very injurious. Often stir up the soil between the rows. Showers of rain are very beneficial for their growth; if none fall, occasional watering with soft water in the morning should be given. Well-water is injurious. Weak manurewater occasionally poured between the plants contributes to vigour. If severe frost should occur, cover at night, and protect from wind.

TULIPS. Stir the surface of the bed an inch deep. Protect from hail, FROST, and strong wind, also from the mid-day sun, say from ten till four o'clock. A hooped framework to support a canvass cover is essential to proper protection, and so fixed as to be readily removed, or put over when danger is apprehended. Keep the soil firm around the stem, and mind that water does not lodge in the heart of the plant where the infant flower is, or it will be damaged; gently open the leaves to admit the water to drain off.

CARNATIONS and PICOTEES.-If not potted off the end of last month, they should be done immediately.

HYACINTHS should be protected from frost, sun, and wind; secure by tying to proper supports. Stir up the surface soil.

PANSIES in beds must have the soil pressed around the plants, and a top dressing of rich soil an inch or two thick will be beneficial. New beds of them should also be planted.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.-Procure pieces of the shortest of the young shoots from the base of the old stems, with as much root as practicable; pot them in very small pots, and place them on a gentle bottom heat till they are well rooted; then gradually harden them, and pot them on during the summer, according to the size the plants are required. You may do this as soon as you please. If there are not short pieces, take off the tops of the shoots and plant them as cuttings.

ROSES.-Now plant out the tender China and Tea, or Bourbons, &c.

FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH.

IN THE FORCING FRAME.

95

Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, &c., that require potting off, or re-potting, should be duly attended to; also Thunbergias, Browallias, Lobelias, Brachycoma, &c. Seedling Fuchsias, Verbenas, Petunias, &c., should be potted off singly. Dahlias too should be placed so as not to be drawn up weakly. Achimenes must be potted off singly. (See Articles on Culture in previous Numbers.) Tender Annuals, as Stocks, Zinnias, &c., should be placed in a cool frame or pit to prevent them being drawn up weakly. Where it is practicable to prick out, such as Stocks, Asters, &c., upon beds, and protect with frames, it should be done; it gives a robust growth to them. Cuttings of Fuchsias, Petunias, Verbenas, and many other greenhouse plants, should now be put off. Young plants of Fuchsias now procured, if six inches high, will make fine ones for shows in summer.

IN THE GREENHOUSE AND COLD FRAME.

Admit all the air possible. Re-pot Lobelias, Tigridias, Geraniums, Verbenas, and other similar plants for beds. All other kinds of plants requiring re-potting should now be done (see Compost, &c., in last month's Calendar). Such as are straggling, &c., should be cut in to render them bushy. Pelargoniums will require particular attention in tying up, watering, and fumigating; if green fly be perceived, occasionally give a little manure-water. (See Articles on Culture in previous volume.) Camellias, when done blooming, examine the roots, and if necessary repot (see Articles upon, for soil, &c.); then place them in a warm part of the greenhouse, or forcing-house, giving due attention to watering, &c., till the wood is firm and flower-buds are set; they may then be removed to a cool pit, so as to be gradually hardened by more air, &c. Japan Lilies, &c., should be duly encouraged by re-potting, &c. Peat soil and sand is what they flourish in best. Činerarias require particular attention in watering, &c.; also pot or re-pot young seedlings, &c.

Orange trees in a border or in tubs should have a portion of the surface-soil taken away, and a good top-dressing of mellow loam and leaf-mould, with a tolerable portion of sheep or pigeons' dung, is intermixed, and re-pot any that require it. A careful inspection of the greenhouse plants should be made to see which require re-potting, and do it at once, not waiting to some general performance; always attend to it when it is wanted. Azaleas, young plants that are beginning to push, let them be re-potted; such as have done blooming must directly be re-potted, and their growth afresh be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a short time. Any required to bloom late should be kept in a cool situation at present.

ERICAS. Any requiring re-potting should be done directly; avoid too large pots with the less vigorous growers, but free growers will require room to extend in proportion. Do not elevate the collar of the roots higher than the rim of the pot, and allow a depth for water when poured in. Give air freely, but avoid draughts, especially from east and north. Calceolarias often require re-potting to have a vigorous bloom.

IN THE STOVE.

Aerodendron, Erythrina, Justicia, Eranthemum, Gloriosa, Ixora, Brugmansia, and similar plants, should duly be hastened on for exhibiting display for shows, &c. Achimenes re-pot. Gloxinias re-pot. Amaryllis, promote vigorous growth of

SONGS OF THE FLOWERS.

NO. 2.--SONG OF THE VIOLET.

BY JOHN DUGGAN, ESQ.

"Violets, dim,

But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes,

Or Cytherea's breath.-Shakspere.
"The Violet,

With lips with morning wet,

Utters such sweetness from her little shrine.”

Leigh Hunt (from the Italian.)

What flower 'neath the sky is so happy as I?

Or can boast half so many true lovers?

First, the gay humming-bee in the morning courts me,
While in music he o'er my heart hovers:

Then, on velvety wings, the pied butterfly clings
To my leaves, where he flutters in gladness-

As I turn my bright eye, lo! the golden moth nigh,
Is paling with envy and sadness.

The bloom-covered Rose may her rich leaves disclose

To woo the embraces of morning;

But that I'd ne'er do-ah! sweet Rose, nor should you—
Such forwardness modestly scorning.

On the thin gossamere, from the pure atmosphere,
Come daintiest spirits that love me;

Then I laugh, and I sigh, and I wink my blue
At some jealous rival above me.

eye

E'en the murmuring rill, whose song never is still,
Smiles for joy if I look on his waters;

While the fond birds, to me, in grove, bower, and tree,
Sing, "Thou'rt sweetest of Flora's sweet daughters."
And
my
dear mother, Spring, oh! doth she not bring
To her favourite child all her treasure?

Eve's rich purple dye, her own redolent sigh,

And rare, beautiful gifts without measure.

Though the warm fragrant gale, love the Lily so pale,
And his odours around her be flinging;

Though with pride the leaves swell of the young Heatherbell
When in beauty she feels herself springing;

Yet, in garden and field, ev'ry flower must yield

To my joy, when the sweet South, at even,

Folds his plumes o'er my breast, and sings, sinking to rest, "To me thy loved bosom is heaven."