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from seeds sown April, 1880, taken up in November, kept in dry mould in the cellar through the winter, and planted out again the 7th of April. In forty-eight days they had pushed forth vigorous young shoots of from six to nine inches in length, not only from the roots, but from their stems also, which had, in a manner, become frutescent. See this plant under the head of Kidney Beans. Plant out Artichokes, Ash-leaved, Kidney, and other early Potatoes, on warm borders, to succeed those grown in frames. In planting out early Potatoes, those sets which are cut with one eye only to each will come in sooner by ten days or a fortnight than those cut with two eyes or more. It will be right to remember this when planting Potatoes in frames. Divide and plant out Balm, Chamomile, Hyssop, Lavender, Marjoram, Mint, Pennyroyal, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea Kale, Sorrel, Tansy, Tarragon, and Thyme. Sow Capsicums and Love-Apples on hot-beds. Sow on warm borders and in the open quarters Asparagus, Beets, Cabbages, Cardoons, Celery, Chervil, Couve Tronchuda, Garden and Kidney Beans, Dutch Turnips, Lettuces, Nasturtiums, Peas, Pot-herbs, Radishes, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Skirret, Small Salading, Spinach, and Winter Greens; which see. Transplant Lettuces and Couve Tronchuda from the frames; and, towards the end of the month, Cauliflowers from under frames and hand-glasses.
Continue hot-beds for Cucumbers and Melons. Sow seeds of Cucumbers under hand-glasses; and ridge out those which were sown last month, to come in for the first hand-glass crop.
Sow Cape Broccoli, Couve Tronchuda, Garden and
Kidney Beans, Lettuces, Peas, Rampion, Spinach, and
Plant out Cucumbers and Melons in frames; the latter must still be followed up with new beds. The runners of Cucumbers will now begin to grow too long to be contained under the hand-glasses: the glasses must be raised upon bricks or garden pots, and the runners turned out upon the ridges, placing some short grass, straw, or reed underneath them, stopping the runners at five or six joints from the stem, and fixing each at a regular distance with small hooked pegs.
Prepare Mushroom Spawn, in the manner directed under that head. Continue to sow Cape Broccoli, Garden and Kidney Beans, Lettuces, Peas, Radishes, Rampion, Spinach, and Small Salading. Knight's Marrow Peas are the best for sowing this month, and the last sowing should be about the 24th; these will continue to bear till October or November.
Hoe Beets, Carrots, Leeks, Onions, and Parsnips. Prick out in beds, or as edgings, the most curled plants of Curled Parsley, Curled Cress, and Curled Chervil for seed; also Broccoli and Winter Greens, Celery and Celeriac, and Tetragonia Expansa. Love-Apples must be kept trained close and at length. Asparagus must not be cut after Midsummer; and if seed is wanted, it should be saved from a few of the earliest and very largest heads.
Sow Cape Broccoli, Endive, Kidney Beans, Lettuces, Spinach, and Turnips. Hoe Carrots, Leeks, Onions, Parsnips, and Turnips. Plant out Broccoli, Cauliflowers, Couve Tronchuda, and Winter Greens. Plant out Celery on the flat surface of rich ground, and in trenches; taking care to to take up each plant with all its roots, and to divest it of all its side shoots, to its principal leaves, which would otherwise prevent its making a fine clean handsome head. Prepare Mushroom Spawn, if not done last month. Cucumbers will now be in full bearing upon the ridges, and should be kept pegged down, stopping the leading runners, so as to keep the plants close, and the ridges completely filled up. In earthing up the hills of Melons, one or two of the frames or pits may now be spawned for Mushrooms, as directed under that head : these will produce their crop in the autumn. Take up Garlic, Potatoe Onions, Rocambole, and Shallots, when the leaves begin to decay, and lay them on mats in an airy place to dry.
Sow Cabbages, Cape Broccoli, Couve Tronchuda, Endive, Lettuces, and Flanders Spinach : this last is much superior to the Bourdeaux or Prickly Spinach. If the Flanders Spinach cannot be obtained conveniently, the Prickly must be resorted to. Sow also Strasburgh and Welsh Onions, Turnips, Turnip and Spanish Radishes.
Plant out Celery and Winter Greens. Earth up early Celery and Cardoons. Spawn Melon beds and
pits, and make Mushroom beds under sheds or in the Mushroom-house.
Continue to stir the surface of the ground among Onions, especially those which are intended to be of the largest size, as this assists materially their growth, and in perfectly ripening their bulbs.
September. Sow Cauliflower and early Purple Broccoli for frames, Lettuces, Flanders and Prickly Spinach, short-topped and Turnip Radishes. *Plant out Couve Tronchuda in frames, the same as Cauliflowers, to be kept through the winter. Make Mushroom beds in the Mushroom-house, or under sheds, for winter crops. Plant out Broccoli and Winter Greens. Earth up Celery, Cardoons, and tie up Endive to blanch. Prick out Cabbage plants. Hoe out Winter Spinach to three or four inches distance plant from plant. Pull up Onions as soon as their tops are nearly dead, or they will push out fresh roots after rain, which will greatly injure their bulbs, and prevent their keeping in a sound and firm state to their usual period in the following spring.
Transplant Cauliflowers and early Purple Broccoli under frames and hand-glasses. Plant out Cabbages, Garlic, Rocambole, and Shallots. Tie up Endive, and earth up Cardoons and Celery. Lay up Carrots, Potatoes, and Red Beet for winter use. Make up Mushroom beds which have been omitted the last month.
Towards the end of the month, sow Frame Peas and Mazagan Beans upon a warm south border. Lay into the ground Purple and White Broccoli, within a few inches of their lower leaves, and letting their heads face the north.
Transplant Black-seeded Gotte and Bath Cos Lettuces under frames, for coming into use early in the spring. Grand Admiral, Hammersmith, and Tennisball Lettuces should be transplanted upon a warm south border, at five or six inches distance from each other: the Black-seeded Gotte Lettuce may also be planted out along with the former three sorts; and should the winter prove mild, it will come in three weeks sooner than the earliest of these sorts. Clear the beds of aromatic plants from weeds, and let them have the winter's dressing; particularly beds of Balm, Burnet, Chamomile, Hyssop, Marjoram, Mint, Penny-royal, Sage, Savory, Sorrel, Tansy, Tarragon, and Thyme.
Where forced Asparagus is required for use in winter, hot-beds may now begin to be made, for gathering the first crop in November and December. If a constant succession is required all winter and spring, a new hotbed, planted with fresh plants, must be made every three or four weeks, from the beginning or middle of October to the end of February or March; which will furnish a supply of Asparagus from November till the arrival of the natural crops in the open ground in April or May.
Trench and manure ground for planting. Earth up Cardoons and Celery. Take up Parsnips on a dry day, as soon as the leaves are dead, and lay them up for winter use. Sow Frame Peas and Mazagan Beans, on a warm south border. Plant out Lettuces under frames and hand-glasses the beginning of this month, if they have been omitted before. Tie up Endive when the plants are dry; or the middle of the plants may be covered with slates or tiles. Draw up the mould close to the heads of Sea Kale so Q Q