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the sense to bring with me, and com- his shillelah on his neighbour's pate. posed a most glorious jug of the finest As I happened to be provided with sleeping-draught in the world. one myself, and was unwilling to spoil
I slept as sound as a rock till dawn. sport, or see sport spoiled, I handed it Uprose the morn, and uprose Captain out, and bade him play out the play. J. Novice que je suis en fait de mon- He received the gift with a grim smile tagnes, even the Tralee hills struck me of welcome, and in an instant I saw as rather respectable-looking tumuli. men tumbling like nine-pins “ beThey are seen to most advantage ap- neath his sturdy stroke.” In someproaching the town from Abbeyder thing more than half an hour, a loud ney, a little village in the direction of hurrah of “ The Boys of Ballinageary Listowell. They rise almost perpen- for ever!” announced that the fray was dicularly from the sea, a considerable ended,-my friend with the stick had reach of which is visible, touching He came up to where I stood, their base, and approaching within
took off his hat, and with great proless than a mile of the town.
priety of speech and gesture, apoloThey burn quantities of lime in gized for the delay, I had met with, Kerry for the land, and at night the assuring me that once the signal was kilns scattered at distant intervals, given, it was impossible to stop for and twinkling like plums in a school- any gentleman; and as he handed pudding, rari in gurgite vasto, present back my stick with eloquent thanks, a singular appearance.
he hoped I “ took no offence at the The fortunati nimium of this king- taste of a scrimmage that had detaindom are wretched agriculturists. I
ed my honour.”
None in creation, saw but one decently cultivated farm my good friend," I replied ; in Kerry; it was on the road from pray, what occasioned this infernal Tralee to Killarney ; the farmer's
Och, it was only some name, they told me, was Marshall. words between mysel and Tim OulaThe peasantry of Kerry fight and talk ghan, about a girl I would'nt marry;an' Latin by instinct. Arriving at a vil- he brought his faction agin us, an' we lage with a name versu quod dicere non fought it out, and beat them like min.' est, and which defies the powers of “ And why would you not marry
the orthography, I suddenly found my- girl?” “ Sure, had'nt she a pearl on self surrounded by a host of combate her eye like a biled cockle whin I seen ants, who, at that instant, commen- her afore the Priest ?” “ You don't ced operations. One fellow seized my mean to say it was then first you disa horse, that I might not disturb them, cerned her blindness ?" “Whin else, and the rest leathered away most fa- your honour? Devil a stem of her Í mously. Cudgels twinkled and Pad- ever seen till then?” “And were you dies fell in every direction. Mean- going to marry a woman the first time while I occasionally heard the mur- ever you saw her?” " 'I'roth and muring tones of a patriarch, who sat that same's the custom among huz at the fire of the cabin, at the door always. When a girl takes on to be of which I was detained prisoner. He married, her father or mother, or the was rating a wench who stood at the like, goes match-making, and spakes only window, gazing at the fun, and to any boy they fancy, and if he's more intent on the scuffle than on the agreeable, and they offer fortin’acworks of Minerva :-“Quid agis in cording to his expictations, the priesht ista fenestra, Bridgeta O'Shaughnessy? is invited, and the first thing the girl Aut quomodo te decet istis humeris hears of the match being settled, or totum diem terere nihilum agendo? who is the man that's to own her, is Estne tam visu spectabile, homines whin the frinds arrive to eat the wedsic fustibus rixas componere, ut de ding dinner; and late in the evening, primis mortalibus tradidit noster Flac- when all is hearty, in comes the boy, cus? Non ita est, Bridgeta mea : vade, and thin they see each other for the age; quam multa vasa culinaria tibi first time.” And what fortune were sunt adhuc detergenda! Cirnea lactis you to get with this girl whom you coagulati agitanda, et-" Here the didn't marry?” “Fifty pound, please din without became so furious, as to your honour, and a feather-bed, and a drown the conclusion of the old boy's losset, and four chairs.” expostulation, and a man who seemed Talking of marriages, I wonder how a sort of leader of his faction, broke the deuce the south of Ireland got such
a name for pretty girls. I can assure What shall I say of the beauties of you, I have seen more ripe and real the Lakes - Upper, Middle, and beauty during half an hour's walk Lower ? Nothing,--absolutely nofrom Westmoreland Bridge to Saint thing. I must leave it to poets to deStephen's Green in the metropolis, scribe lakes. Natheless, one word of than in the two counties of Limerick Mangerton. Some people take ponies and Kerry put together. The female to ascend this mountain, but this is peasants are healthy-looking, with ridiculous, except for women. The fively black eyes, but their features are top is only about six miles off ; -50 coarse, and their gait and dress un- giving a knapsack full of sandwiches, gainly. The middling class are bur- and a flask of Hollands, to a young dened with a nauseous superabun- bare-legged mountaineer, who was to dance of “ vulgar gentility,” that puts attend me, I took my
có stick in my one out of patience with their me- fist,” at a convenient hour after breakdiocre looks, and of the upper rank, fast, and set forth for the mountain those who are most beautiful, are ra- top. On our way, we went in to look ther over-taught, so that Nature's love- at Mucness. There was a funeral just liness hardly gets fair play, covered then on its way to the Abbey. Then over, as it is, with the heavy embroi- first I heard the dirge called Keening, dery of education. In fact, when you in the vulgar the Hullaboo, or Irish do meet with beauty in this region, cry. It begins with a low moaning 'tis rather of the intellectual than sen- sound, apparently from women only, sual cast, and for me, I hate clever then gradually swelling, as it is taken women as much as ever Hypolitus did. up by one after another of the crowd,
Midway between Tralee and Kile it bursts at length into a loud and larney, you first behold MacGillicud- wailing cry, which slowly dies away dy's Reeks exulting in their glory. again to moans,—but no articulate Carran Thual, the highest, is 3400 words are heard. It is resumed every feet above the sea level. It was crown- time the bearers of the coffin are ed, not exactly with an avalanche, but changed, or any halt takes place in with something very like a night-cap the procession. When the ceremony of snow, when I passed.
of interment is over, and the last sod Whenever you visit Killarney, go beaten down upon
cry to the Kenmare Arms,-inquire for is once more repeated, loud and long ; Thomas Finn, the landlord,-tell him and then they whose clamorous you mean to be comfortable, and there's grief has borne such an emphasis," no doubt he'll make you so. The man depart in groups, chatting of their orfurnishes forth a breakfast not un- dinary affairs. worthy of the Land of Cakes. Of To those whose minds are in a mea course, before you think of this meal, lancholy mood already, the cry sounds you have walked, or rode, or driven, exceedingly mournful, otherwise, and some twenty miles; then you sit down at a distance, one can hardly distina to a table covered with cold ham and guish whether it be intended to exturkey, a round of beef, and smoking press woe or mirth. There is by no hot fresh eggs innumerable, with tea means “snug lying in the abbey” here. and coffee to wash down the solids,- Dead men's bones, and bits of coffins, carefully attended all the while by lie scattered in every direction, and in Dennis, his major-domo, a huge Ma- some places skulls are piled up into jocci-looking fellow, with black bushy heaps above the surface. There is an whiskers, and spectacles on nose, and enormous ash-tree, too, growing out his black wig so classically arranged, of the very middle of a heap of bones, that for an instant you suppose you which suggests the idea of its owing have got before you a head-journeya its immense magnitude to the loathman from one of the Magazines des some decomposition that is going on Modes of Bond Street. But this dis below. Within the walls of the agreeable delusion soon passes, and cloister stands a gigantic yew, of which you find, that instead of a big con- the branches form a sort of natural ceited fool, full of nothingness and roof to the apartment, and admit no knavery, whose every sentence is an more than a dim religious light, which impertinence, Dennis is a “rale Irish- enables you to see that the stem has man,” remarkable for his civility and lost its bark, and is dripping with the his Kerry brogue.
clammy moisture of a charnel-house.
The guidés tell you a number of won- the general line of the ascent, you derful superstitious tales about this come suddenly upon a still lake of same yew tree, the recital of which very considerable extent, awfully deep you must listen to whether you will and cold-this is called the “ Devil's or no, as they consider it a part of the Punch Bowl.” The name embodies in value they are to give for their day's it a pithy moral; for if Satan can hire. Many of the views of the lake boast no better liquor than this, it is and its shores from different parts of an awful warning not to travel his the demesne of Mucness, are exqui- way, nor put up in his quarters. I sitely beautiful, and would be very have heard, over the Border, that he interesting if one were not pestered had need o’a lang-shankit spune that with a guide who does not fail to obe sups kail wi' the deil ; and I can tesserve that “ here is a mighty nate tify that he had need of a flask of aquaskitch of the wather-isn't thim rocks vitæ, that means to take a glass of grog purty ?” In sum, the view was fine, with him after supper. A Glasgow the arbutus was in full fruit, and in who was here once on a fine full flower--the fruit presented every summer's evening, after tasting of the variety of tint, from the crude green cool and crystal flood, exclaimed to of first formation, to the red ripeness his guide, “ God-sake, man, what a of maturity. The holly, too, and the glorious bowl of punch you would mountain ash, were covered with bere mak, if a buddy could turn intilt, for ries of a different shade of red, and about half an hour, a stream of rum, the service tree with others of a lighter like that that runs beneath the New tint; while the sere and changing Brigo' Glasgow after a Lammas flood; leaves of the oak, ash, beech, and alder, wi' the juice o' a' the leemons that formed a foliage which presented an grew since the creation; and twa endless variety of hues. The fantastic lumps o' sugar, the taen as big as the shapes of most of the limestone cliffs, High Kirk, and the tither the size o' which form the water-worn shores, are the Infirmary!” “ Anan?” said the very curious, and are named by the guide, astonished at this speech, of natives after various things to which which he hardly understood one word ; they are conceived to bear a rude ree but the man from the Gorbals, wrapsemblance; they indicate a violent ped in the magnificence of his thoughts, action of the water, very different from heeded him not, and, musing, took the smooth and placid stillness of the his way down the hill-side. On the lake while I looked upon it, and told side of this lake, which you first reach, of former commotion, like a battered the hill is barely high enough to keep and shattered fortress, in the midst of in the waters, while, on the opposite a country smiling in peace and tran- side, it shoots up in a steep ascent to quillity:
the summit of the mountain. The Leaving Mucness, I began the climbing here is rather terrific, as the ascent of Mangerton by a mountain least slip would send you rolling backpath from a little village called Clogh- wards into the deep lake below; but
As you ascend, you leave the my head was so full of a little experilakes behind ; but from several points, ment I had in view, that I thought when one turns about and looks down, not of the danger. I had been mightthe prospect is extremely beautiful. ily taken with that notable new disThe lakes studded with little wooded covery of the celebrated sixpenny phi. islands, and bounded by huge moun- losopher, Brougham, which overturns tains, whose ample sides are clothed the antiquated systems of such felwith trees, lie like a delicious picture lows as Kepler and Newton (whose beneath your feet, while the wreaths discoveries formed a part of that of curling smoke mark the town of “ wisdom of our ancestors,” which Killarney in the distance, and new has been lately discovered to be all vistas open in the mountains to the fudge), and oversets the “ould” law right, disclosing glens, whose gloomy of gravity, to the incalculable spread sides are contrasted with the glittering of useful knowledge, and the signal surface of the little lakes that lie deep honour and glory of the new Cockaigne in their bosoms. At the height of University. Now, in ascending Man nearly two thousand feet, on turning gerton, I had been dreadfully pestered the shoulder of a slight and abrupt by a set of fellows, cach of whom ineuņinence, more perpendicular than sisted on acting as guide to my hom
nour, and, after many ineffectual ef- hastily inquired what wasthe matter.
forts to dismiss them, I had changed “ The matter !” said he of the woundmy plan, and told them, that since no ed seat, “ by Jasus, I never got such entreaties of mine could induce them a kick in the in
my life; an' I'll to desist, as many might accompany take the law of him, so I will." as chose. Meanwhile, I secretly plea- I never felt so convinced of the exsed myself with the thought of how cellence of the metaphysical definition cleverly I should outwit them. “ Gra- of solidity-it is, that resistance which vity,” said I, extracting Brougham's we find in a body to the entrance of treatise from my pocket, and reading any other body into its place, until the therefrom, gravity varies with the former one has been removed. This distance exactly in the proportion of resistance I had experienced to my the squares, lessening as the distance cost; and it so completely overset my increases : at two miles from the centre of gravity, that had not the earth, it is four times less than at one fellow collared me so quickly, I should mile; at three miles, nine times less, have been laid sprawling on my moand so forth.” Very well, I conti- ther earth, floored by the equality of nued, if, at one hundred yards high, re-action to action; whereas I had these men weigh ten stone each, (and expected but to beat the air. I looked I'm sure they were not more, for they as blank as a friar at a feast on a Friwere small light-limb'd fellows),when day; but as a man cannot have everywe get up two hundred yards, that thing his own way in this world, weight will be diminished in the ratio like a bull in a china shop, I was fain of one to four; and when we shall to ascribe my proceeding to an occaget eight hundred yards up the hill, sional flightiness to which I was subwhich is near the top, their weight ject, and got off by tendering a golden will be to ten stone each, but as one remedy of sovereign efficacy for the sore square is to eight square, that is, one place, and a full day's pay to all the to sixty-four; in short, they will be rest. Then, muttering an anathema little more than two pounds a-piece. as mild as Doctor Slop's malediction Here then was my scheme—the fresh on Obadiah, against all Jews, Whigs, mountain breeze made me feel as vic atheists, lying philosophers, and other gorous as ever I did in my life-So, atrocious persons, I crept to the topthought I, I shall, on some pretence, most summit of Mangerton. range my guides in a row along the Pardon, as Mr Locke says, this lite top of the mountain, at intervals of tle excursion into physics. The failure twelve paces, which will allow room of my first essay in natural philosofor a tidy little run between each: phy, left me in that frame of heavenly then, taking my race, I shall give each, pensive contemplation best suited for in succession, a kick in the breech so relishing and appreciating the beau. vigorous, that, as they will be then ties of external nature; and now, inlittle heavier than so many blown deed, a scene of inimitable grandeur bladders, I shall see them severally burst upon my astonished sight. As wafted down the hill, to at least half I faced towards the east, I beheld a a mile from the point of impact, and I wide reach of the Atlantic, with the can get clear off at my leisure. On little islands, called the Blasquets, in the brow of the hill then, over Satan's the distance; farthest to my right the bowl of toddy as aforesaid, I ranged bays of Castlemaine and Dingle, with my men in order, and commenced ope- the hills above them, were visible on rations; but, judge of my astonish- the southern horizon; while far upon ment and dismay, when the first man, my left, Bantry Bay was distinctly disa instead of floating swiftly down the cernible; and' more near me, in the hill-side, with an initial velocity pro- same direction, the bay and river of portionate to the impetus communi. Kenmare. Right beneath lay all the cated by the lever power of my dexter glories of Killarney-groups of mountoe, exhibited such an unphilosophical tains, richly wooded, dwindled into vis inertia, as actually to withstand conical, or fantastically shaped hills the shock, and collar me in an instant, from the height at which I stood, demanding, with a volley of oaths, while sections of the different lakes and in language somewhat of the stealing in amongst them in every diplainest, what the devil I meant. The rection, and reflecting the dancing sunaltercation soon turned the rest, who beams, gave light and effect down to
the very base of every group. The own planting The Abbey here has whole scene more resembled one of nothing to offend one, nor truly any“ those painted clouds that beautify thing very much to interest either, our days,” and deck the sunny skies though it be I know not how many of imagination, than anything one is ages older than that of Mucness. Í accustomed to in nature and reality. must except one spot, to which the Then came a change-a thick mist fair-haired gilly who showed the lions suddenly spread itself over the valley, directed my attention in a manner raand soon, in volumed masses, came ther to be imagined than described. rolling up the mountain's side, with a The stone-wall was there stripped of its fearful and astonishing rapidity, and ivy covering, and seared, evidently with then sweeping across the whole line of the traces of recent fire; the scattered view, shut the scene, as though it wood-ashes, too, on which the pensive were a curtain drawn by the hand of eye of the lad rested, as his lip moistGod across the face of his most glorie ened, and his whole countenance asous creation. One minute all was sumed the pleasing melancholy cast sparkling in the sun, the next enve- of well-remembered pleasure--all, all loped everything in a cold wet cloud, betokened “ that man had been here." which I distinctly saw rushing to- “ That, sir,” said the lad, at length wards me, till it struck me in the face, breaking silence, with a sigh of deep and clothed me like a wet garment. emotion, “ that is the place where Shortly afterwards came on a shower they brile the salmon wid branches of of sharp, hard, little hailstones, that arbutus-just as they takes it out of penetrated like needle points, and soon the wather, they splits it, sir, and fixes it turned to a mixture of snow and it up wid arbutus skivers.”
" And is sleet. Under this I wended my way it excellent ?” “ Devil a bether in the along a mountain path that overhangs nayshins.”—(Nations.) Here was food the Punch-Bowl and Gleana Cappul, for meditation ! How idly do philosoor the Horse's Glyn. When the phers dispute whether man should be shower began to clear away, and the defined a rational, or a cooking animist occasionally broke up, so as to
mal ! There needs but balf an eye to transmit a gleam of light, it was al- see that the terms are synonymous. most fearful to look down the preci- When I reached the Kenmare Arms, pitous steep upon the sullen water, or and had changed my travel-stained the huge void of the deep glyn; while, habiliments—for next to the dinner from every jagged eminence, depend- itself, the greatest terrestrial enjoyed a fleece of fog, streaming like the ment is the preparation for it-I torn banners from some castle's height, stretched my legs beneath Mr Finn's after the rush of the battle is over. mahogany; and as Dennis uncovered
By the time I had slowly descend- a salmon full of curd," and a red and ed, with the assistance of the guide, to smoking round, of which the base was the bottom of the slippery and almost planted out,” as foresters express it, perpendicular bank, to the level of by a screen of mellow foliage, I acthe loch, the mist had passed away, knowledged that Killarney did abound and left only the fleecy rack careering in objects at once sublime and beauwith the wind; so that, after I had tiful. Toil and hunger gave zest to addressed myself with earnest dilie food and rest. The pleasant fire-the gence to my sandwiches, and repeated steam of rich perfumes which rose draughts of neat Hollands, I bounded from the dinner-table—the good old down the mountain to Turk waterfall, wine that followed,-gradually soothwith the vigour and agility of a native ed me into incipient slumber, and sinkred deer; took the water at Glenah, ing back into my easy-chair, as I mute and rowed across to Ross Castle, touch tered after honest Jack Falstaff, “Shall ing only at the island of Innisfallen, I not take mine ease in mine inn?” I a delicious, quiet, little spot of soft sunk into balmy repose. green, and full of trees of Nature's