MY TRAVELS; OR, AN UNSENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND ITALY. BY CAPTAIN CHAMIER, R.N., AUTHOR OF "THE LIFE OF A SAILOR," &c. "To feel for none is the true social art Of the world's stoics-men without a heart." DON JUAN, Canto V. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. III. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1855. 203. c. 107, MY TRAVELS. CHAPTER I. NOTES, HINTS, AND FACTS. THE traveller in Naples, after having read up his "Murray," and made himself acquainted with the various sights, will soon find out that he has to pay for experience; and without he is content to accept for nothing, that for which others have paid pretty handsomely, he will find that Naples, although reckoned one of the cheapest places, may become a very dear one. As I am not too proud to learn, and am perfectly aware how deficient I am in common prudence, I escaped pretty well-thanks to VOL. III. B following advice when given, and soliciting it when required. You drive to your inn at Naples. You cannot go wrong if you go to any on the Chiaja, Chiatamone, or Santa Lucia-they are all good. The Hotel de Rome is the best situated of all-that is, for the sea-view, and the view of the Bay-but it does not give great inducements either by its cleanliness or its cookery; to arrive at the Restaurant would sicken anybody but a half-starved Frenchman, or a Neapolitan. Neither am I very partial to the Hotel de Russie; for the Santa Lucia, owing to the oyster-market and all kinds of dirty food-stalls, never smells much better than a narrow street in Cologne. You drive to your hotel, and if it is after sunset, you will soon imagine that the landlord is inclined to illuminate on the joyful occasion of another victim's arrival. Every wax candle that can be stuffed in every available place will be lighted; therefore, begin with having them all extinguished; and take very good care not to allow the horses to be taken off the carriage, or any luggage handed down, until you have made your arrangements. There can be no fixed price offered, for every family differs in numbers; and rooms overlooking the sea pay more than those which look into a back street; but put your pride, if you have any-and pride is a very useless article, without you wish to pay for it-in your pocket; and make a regular agreement for everything. The breakfasts and dinners are generally regulated by fixed prices; but breakfast as put down on the carte, and breakfast as some hungry, healthy people like it, are two very different affairs; however, wherever you go, in all beautiful Italy, take care to have everything agreed upon before the porters set to work at your luggage. You will find it no bad plan always to shut the windows of your carriage on the side which you do not descend. I omitted this little precaution at Bologna, and the only thing loose was stolen. All the hotels at Naples are extravagantly dear; but they are very comfortable and clean, and the attendance good. Mind and have the service charged in the bill, and, in proportion to your family, so reduce the charge. If you have honest servants, let them pay for themselves, and settle with them afterwards; if they are of the doubtful gender, have the price fixed for them, and charged in your bill. |