mosaic of the Almighty at the distance of four hundred and five feet-the globe and cross which are on the top of the baldacchino, are only ninety-four feet from the pavement, and they look small at that distance; even the statues in the lower niches, which are sixteen feet in height, appear nothing more than natural, and St. Veronica, like many other ladies, looks better at a distance. It is marvellous, how quickly time flies when the mind is engaged; what with looking up at the dome, and looking down to St. Peter, with now and then a suspicious look at my companions, and an occasional changing of place to get into company who had not dined upon garlic, the hour I had to wait passed like a second, and a flourish of trumpets outside announced the arrival of God's vicegerent upon earth. As he entered, the music began, and the voices joined in the harmony; there was a little more respect in the assembly, many knelt down, and as he passed all bowed; as his holiness advanced, he blessed everybody.

Pio Nono, who began all the revolutions, does not look like a reformer or a warriorneither does he give the idea of a firm, reso.

lute man; he is rather short, by no means dignified, excepting when he gives the blessing, and then his voice and manner make a very great impression. If he is a very clever man, I would not give a fig for Roget's facial angle, or all the combinations of Combe, Lavater, Spurzheim, or anybody else, who ever wrote upon Craniology, Physiognomy, Phrenology, or any other onomy or ology; and if he is a firm man, straight-mouthed, thin-lipped men may look in a glass and doubt themselves. There is something very mild and beneficent about the pope, but there is nothing very dignified or impressive. He continued his advance to where I stood; I was in the foremost line, next to the soldiers, and I had a good, steady observation of him before he came opposite to me, when, in order to be more respectful, I took my hand from my pocket, and bowed, as every man ought to bow to a sovereign when he is in his dominions, whatever may be his creed or his po

litical opposition to him.

Unguarded mortal that I was, in my excitement and curiosity I had forgotten Mosti's maxims, and at the very moment when the pope was blessing me, and all around me, and

VOL. III.

I bowing my head in reverence to the high authority before me, a caitiff wretch preferred my pocket-handkerchief to his own salvation; his greedy claws had seized their prey-there was an indecorous movement behind me; who at that moment could turn from him who held the keys of Heaven-or cease to regard the Catholic representation of Christ on earth? nay, who-be he protestant or heretic-can look on all this worldly scene of grandeur in that church

"With nothing like to thee,

Worthiest of God-the Holy and the true,"

and not feel humbled-not feel a certain awe and reverence, a profound submission, a conscientiousness of the great imposing ceremony, a certain thrill of religious fervour, an admiration ?

Far be it from me to detract from these religious rights and offices, or attempt to ridicule what many regard with favour, and none can despise. It is doing homage to the Lord; it is all poor, weak man can imagine as giving an idea of his submission, or of honouring the Prince of princes; and these great and imposing ceremonies are more calculated to work

upon minds incapable of adoration without pomp-or prayer without excitement. There is something wonderfully impressive in the scene-the music's reverberation through this magnificent temple, the prostration of thousands; one man alone erect, and he the supposed vicegerent of the Lord, holding on high that in which the Divinity itself is enshrined, and in his clear, deep voice pronouncing the Holy Trinity.

Above is all that man can do to imitate the heavens in its blaze of light; below are the worshippers of Him who led captivity captive, prostrate on the earth, not daring to lift their eyes; there is a silence, an awful silence, as the smoke from the censer rises, and shrouds, as it were, the elevated host; and there is a sublime dignity in the words which close the captivating ceremony. I confess I felt excessively overcome.

I wonder where that vagabond expects to go to hereafter, who filched my property? what a disregard he must have had for the pope, and his blessing! unless, indeed, he thought the blessing sanctified the deed. I was uncommonly annoyed. I never bargained for being robbed in such a church, in such a mo

ment; and as I might have failed in another of Mosti's maxims, of "not being late at the table-d'hôte," I left the Basilica, and returned to the hotel.

my

After dinner, Mosti came to arrange about the carriage during our stay at Rome, and take leave of us for a month. I told him adventure in the church; he shrugged his shoulders, and carelessly observed, "If a man wants to find a frail woman, or a pickpocket, the churches are their rendezvous."

The next day, having taken a few precautions, I revisited St. Peter's, and this time it looked as if it had considerably shrunk in its proportions, as there was scarcely a soul in it. I had full time and space for my observations, all of which are just as well in my diary as here; but even the most unsentimental traveller cannot stand in that most splendid of all churches and not be carried away with enthusiasm, especially if he places himself under the dome, and escapes breaking his neck in viewing its immensity, and its mosaics.

I was much amused at the fervour with which old and young kissed the bronzed toe of St. Peter, which has been kissed so often, that it is well polished. Of those of the