it-that when I found myself again in Ragusa's comfortable inn, I indulged in a little extra expense, determined, in my own mind, that the toil was well recompensed by the pleasure derived, but was excessively grateful the sight was done. CHAPTER V. AN EXCURSION FROM PALERMO. THERE is an excursion always made, and providing it be not a Sirocco, or too strong a breeze to raise much dust, the excursion will be pleasant enough; but remember that a "sinking case" may be requisite. It is rather a long drive by the Favorita to Monnello Sferra Cavallo, the Isola delle Femmine, returning by another road which skirts the hills. The Favorita and its gardens, fountains, walks, views, and contrivances, are well worth a visit, even if it were not a palace-but a deserted one-of his majesty of Naples; and a sweet, delicious retreat it might be from the cares, the troubles, and the vexations of life, but it is untenanted; his majesty of Naples never visits now his Sicilian subjects, and the Favorita. is become a drive for the privileged, or a sight for the traveller. Although it stands on low ground, and has the Monte Pellegrino overlooking its garden of oranges and its sparkling fountain, yet, from its summit, there is a fine view of the Cape de Gallo, and the Gulf. In days gone by, there must have been "midnight shout and revelry" in this summer palace; for here the table of the convivial guests sinks by machinery, and rises again almost instantaneously with cooler wine, fresher fruit, or sweeter flowers; the descending table is lifted off the platform, and another with another service replaces it: it would be awkward if inebriation had overcome any of the party, who, deprived of the support of the table, might accidentally take a header into the soup tureen. All this is past now, and the mysteries of those days, if they are known, are sealed within the guardian's lips; but it is a charming retreat, and admirably adapted for the climate. In pursuing the drive to Monnello, you again come upon the coast, passing high romantic cliffs, which, of course, are immediately outlined in the sketch-books, to be shown to every admirer on the return; the road, which is to become good in time, required no sketching; everybody who was jolted and banged about over these masses of unbroken stones, will have a painful remembrance of the route, without referring to a sketch of it. In this excursion you, as it were, turn the north-westernmost part of the island, and coming into a miserable village, but still one which might become desirable, at a trifling outlay, called Sferra Cavallo, see the Isola delle Femmine. Why it rejoiced in that envied name, I never could discover; it certainly was not from the beauty of the women who might have inhabited it; neither is there any romantic history that it ever was only inhabited by women; neither do many women inhabit it now. It is a low, common-place-looking island enough; but it still has an historical record, for it was on this island that Cotisone, who had represented himself as Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, who was killed in Africa, was most cruelly tortured, and executed. History is ready enough to chronicle the cruelties and the vices of men, but the virtues and the clemencies of sovereigns, although conspicuous enough in their own edicts, are seldom recorded in the pages of the past. There are other sights to be done before the traveller leaves the coast; and amongst these, the Bagharia claims some attention. This village is situated on the road to Termini, and is, and was, the residence of many of the Palermitan nobility: it is on the eastern shore of the bay of Palermo. From a belvedere belonging to the Villa Valguarnera, there is a beautiful view of the two gulfs; the conformation of the north-eastern part of Sicily may be accurately ascertained, whilst the view of Solanto, the high, bold promontories, and luxuriantly-cultivated country, will repay the visitor for the very slight trouble of mounting the rocky path which leads to this summerhouse. Nor is the drive from Palermo disagreeable, or the road bad; but certainly the mighty Princes Cattolica, Valquarnera, Palagonia, and others, would not deteriorate from the value of their villas, if they made the approach to them a little less hazardous to carriage springs. The village itself has been well designed, and, with a little care and capital, the Bagharia might become a most charming residence. It is here that the traveller may see the fallen splendour of the Palermitan nobility—for the villas show, to this day, VOL. III. I |