34

ABSURD CUSTOM.

and its height is calculated at 9000 feet; it is "alone in its glory," no rival summit robs it of one fleecy "wanderer of the sky;" it seems as if every cloud within the sphere of its attraction came to repose upon its lofty crest; and as they feel the influence of the winds which sweep unobstructed over the wide ocean, they are wreathed and piled into a thousand varied and fantastic shapes, ever changing their colour as they receive the impression of the solar rays.

It may be well imagined that the arrival of the Waverley had created no small sensation in Fayal, and several evening parties were given by the Portuguese leaders of fashion in honour of the "distinguished foreigners."

We found them at first very dull and formal, from the custom which was universally observed of separating the gentlemen from their fair partners, and thus restricting all conversation between them to the period when they were actually engaged in dancing. The ball-room was generally the termination of the suite of apartments; round it and close to the walls sat all the ladies, playing with their fans, chatting to each other in whispers, and looking as if all their happiness was in expectancy in the adjoining ante-room the men lounged, or stood in small groups, while the most gallant placed themselves at the folding-doors looking wistfully into the paradise which they seemed

* "Segler der Lufte."-Schiller.

ITS REFORMATION.

35

forbidden to enter. When the music began, they hastened forward, claimed their respective partners, and after the dance returned to the outer apartment; or if a few lingered in the ball-room, it was only to stand opposite to the fair wall-flowers where every sentence spoken was necessarily overheard by the persons on either side.

After enduring this unnecessary penance for some time, two or three bold spirits from the Waverley determined to effect a radical reform of the social abuse. Accordingly, to the surprise of the islanders, we brought chairs in from the adjoining room; and after the dance, seated ourselves by the ladies' bench, and entered into conversation with them. The unexpected audacity of this proceeding, precluded all possibility of resistance on the part of the maintainers of the "ancien régime." Not only was our triumph complete; but before we left Fayal, we had the satisfaction of seeing the lieutenant of artillery and other native beaux follow our heroic example.

36

MARINE EXCURSION.

CHAPTER III.

A Marine Excursion.-Novel Mode of landing. Dinner with Captain L.-A Portuguese Ecclesiastic.-Latin Conversation with him.-Pico Wine.-Excursion resumed.-Disagreeable Quarters.A Storm.- Providential Escape. — Velas.—Volcanic Craters.-A buried Church.-Unlucky Search for Game. -Female Costume.-Fuel.-Return to Fayal.-The Waverley again ready for Sea.-Serious Affray.—Its Consequences.—A Street Squabble.-Cowardly Threats.-Leave Fayal.

AFTER a fortnight thus agreeably spent in Fayal, I determined to see some of the other islands; and accordingly hired a boat manned by four stout seamen and a pilot, whose services I engaged for a week.

Not being able to prevail upon any of my fellowpassengers to accompany me on this excursion, I embarked with Mr. , the son of the Dutch consul, who was kind enough to volunteer his company, which was the more agreeable and useful inasmuch as he spoke the language fluently, and was acquainted with many persons in the places that I was about to visit. We started with a fresh breeze, and ran across the channel separating Fayal from Pico, (which is eight or nine miles wide,) in the space of a hour.

NOVEL MODE OF LANDING.

37

As we approached the shore, I could distinguish a village composed of a few dozen scattered houses; a few people were also to be seen, and boats, and nets, but I could nowhere discern a creek or harbour, nor any indication of a landing-place. The coast is girt by black and frowning rocks; and although there was not a heavy sea running, a formidable row of breakers dashed over the point for which our pilot was steering. I was utterly at a loss to conceive how we were to effect a landing; but, being myself only a passenger, and seeing the rest of the party apparently unconcerned, I had nothing to do but to remain in my seat and watch their movements in silence.

As soon as the boat was within a few yards of the rocks, half-a-dozen stout fellows, armed with long poles, were prepared to assist our disembarcation. Two of our own boat's crew stood on the bows provided with similar staves, (which resembled very closely the iron-shod punt-poles used by the bargemen in the Thames,) with these the boatmen and those on shore fended us off for a minute or two, until the boat being raised by a wave larger than the rest, they gave a simultaneous shout, and allowed her to be carried high upon the rocks, those on shore breaking her fall by applying their shoulders and fenders brought down for the purpose. This mode of landing was new to me, but I presume those who are accustomed to it, like it as well as drawing a boat upon

38

DINNER WITH CAPTAIN L

a sandy beach. I do not think I ever saw finer or more muscular figures than the bare-armed barelegged fellows who attend the landing of Pico boats. Their countenances are swarthy and sunburnt, and they seem to live half their lives in the surf, and to treat its foam and rage with the coolest indifference.

On going up to the village, I heard that Captain L had come over from Fayal early in the day, and was giving a dinner to the dignitaries of the island: I determined upon witnessing this scene of hospitality; and, on entering the room, I found the captain doing the honours at the end of a table, round which sat a dozen persons, total strangers to me, and who must have been, halfan-hour before, equally strange to their excellent entertainer. As he could not speak a word of Portuguese, nor of any other language intelligible to his guests, the conversation, carried on by signal, and the civilities interchanged by

Quips and cranks, and wanton wiles,

Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles,

was amusing in the highest degree. The captain having made his friends understand that I was a Scottish grandee of the first class, I was treated with the most profound respect, and the distinguished post of croupier was forthwith assigned

to me.

After a few minutes passed in bowing to my right and left, and in various modes of telegraphic com