174

RUINS OF AN OLD PALACE.

ing they have been bought and fitted up by Mr. B―, their present possessor, in a neat cottage style. I did not scruple to enter, and ask permission to cast my eye round the apartments and adjoining garden, which was politely granted. It may be imagined with what mingled and undefinable feelings I viewed this spot, as a stranger and a foreigner, where my grandfather had lived, surrounded by the pomp and pageantry of viceroyalty!—then all was bustle, and gaiety, and life within those halls - when the governor welcomed the colonists to the board and to the dance, or sallied forth with British soldiery, supported by the bold woodsmen of the country, to drive the red invaders. from the remote portions of Virginia, which are now included in the States of Ohio and Tennessee!* What is now the contrasted scene? — those wildernesses, watered by the Ohio and Mississippi, which were then the abode of the wolf, the bear, and the Indian, are filled with thriving farms and busy villages, amidst which are to be found towns of great and increasing opulence; while the ancient capital, on the site of which I was now stand

* In the time of James the First, and for many years after his reign, the colony of Virginia was held to contain all the country between latitudes 32° and 44°, "and as far westward as might be convenient." I saw some very curious records connected with this subject in the archives, which are preserved in good order at Richmond. The present northern and southern limits of Virginia were assigned in 1630-1632, when the boundaries of Carolina and Maryland were drawn.

ing, has dwindled, in half a century, into a paltry village, without even a venerable ruin to rescue its decay from insignificance !

The train of reflections naturally arising from the contemplation of this scene probably prevented my paying due attention to the college situated in the neighbourhood of it, built and endowed (as is well known) by William and Mary. I did visit it, however, and found a large irregular pile of building, without any architectural pretensions. I also paid my respects to Mr. T, one of the principal professors: his deportment and conversation answered the expectation which I had formed from the general high character that he enjoys throughout the state. His general views of education and college discipline appeared to me liberal and enlightened. He introduced me to two other professors belonging to the establishment; and my impression from the interview was, that, under such men, the college, which had, for many years subsequently to the revolution, and the consequent diminution of its funds, been on the decline, would soon regain its former celebrity.

On the 20th of April I left Williamsburgh, and proceeded, through an uninteresting country, to Hampton. From thence I took a stroll towards the new fortification at Old Point, which has been constructed with much care and at great expense. The works are of considerable extent, and many difficulties must have presented themselves in the

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NEW FORTIFICATION.

progress of the fortification, especially from the instability of the foundation, the whole being built upon sand. I should conceive it altogether a strong fortress, as regular approaches could only be made on one side, and that is a narrow isthmus, not easily occupied by an enemy. Its dimensions are quite out of proportion with the military force at present existing in the country. I should have conceived that the whole United States' army would not make more than a sufficient garrison for it (as it certainly would easily contain eight thousand men, which is above two thousand more than their present numerical force); but I am told the technical calculations respecting the fortification (of which I am myself very ignorant) are, that it can be defended by three thousand men, and is calculated to hold out against regular approaches for forty days. The guns that I saw were all twenty-four and thirtytwo pounders; but forty-twos are to be mounted, upon a new and improved principle in the construction of the carriages. I have been informed that it was meant to form a kind of depôt, or centre, of a great line of coast fortification, extending all along the shores of the Atlantic: the intention of which was to protect the whole important line between the Hudson and the James River.

Crossing from Old Point to Norfolk, in the steamer, I arrived late in the afternoon. This is a bustling, active town, containing, probably, about eleven thousand inhabitants. The streets are nar

row, and the houses rather small; and, though the shops are well filled, and the streets are lined with hampers, barrels, crates, and all the usual pavementimpediments of a commercial port, still there is little to interest a stranger; but the bay affords a noble harbour, and the merchants of Norfolk have been long and justly celebrated for their hospitality. As for the great bay of the Chesapeak, in which this seaport is situated, it is certainly one of the finest in the world, whether considered in reference to its commercial or naval importance, being, on an average, twelve or fifteen miles wide, two hundred and seventy miles long, and eight or ten fathoms deep throughout; it contains many commodious harbours and excellent fisheries. Besides the James River, of which I have before spoken, it receives the waters of several navigable rivers, the principal of which are the Susquehanna, Potomac, Patuxent, Rappahanock, and York.

During my stay I was hospitably entertained by the British Consul, and made some agreeable acquaintance. After a few days I returned to Washington.

VOL. I.

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CHAPTER X.

Morning Ride.-Delightful Season.-Shrubs and Flowers.The Mocking-bird.-Visit to a Flower-garden.-Preparations for a Tour in the West.-Parting from Friends.—Leave Washington for Baltimore.—Fearful Ravages of the Cholera. —Incident in the Museum at Baltimore.-Arrival at Philadelphia. Start for Pittsburgh.-Lovely Prospect.-Lancaster Vale.-German Settlers.-The Susquehanna.-The Juniata. —Track Boats.—A Newspaper Reporter.-Inquisitive Western Traveller. Walk to Holydaysburgh.-Nocturnal Annoytown. -Passage across the Alleghanies.-Arrival at Johnsance. The River Conimah.-Railroad.—The Alleghany River. Pittsburgh.-The Market.-Mr. Rapp's Settlement.

On the morning of the 5th of May I sallied forth, about seven o'clock, to ride round the heights of George-town, and the picturesque glens by which they are divided from the Washington race-course. All who have seen the various tints which clothe the American woods in autumn, (or, to use their own poetical and admirable expression, in the fall,) have agreed in celebrating their unrivalled richness and beauty. I will not institute an odious comparison between that time of year and the "soote season" in which I now pricked forth: both are sweet, and both have their peculiar attractions.