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104

RETURN TO NEW YORK.

CHAPTER VII.

Return to New York.-Heavy Fog.-Exploring Party.-Society in New York.-Departure for Philadelphia.-Exhibition of Wild Beasts in Bordentown.-Arrival in Philadelphia. A lineal Descendant of William Wallace.-Arrival at Washington. British Legation.- Tour to the West of Virginia. Wretched Roads.-A Disaster.-A Negro Samaritan.-Friendly Landlord.-Arrival at Leesburgh.-Search for Game.-Capture of a large Gobler.-Fruit called Persimmon. Remarkable Duel.-Romney.-Excursion in pursuit of Deer.-American Agriculturist and Hunter.-Invidious Comparison. Hospitable Laird.-Republican Doctrine of Equality-ludicrous Anomalies arising from this.-Survey of various Tracts of Land.-Progress of Agriculture.-Excursion to the Glades of Alleghany-Scenery-the Inhabitants.-Private Entertainment. Mr. Chisholm. Recollections of Scotland.- Scotch Settlers.- Field Sports in the Alleghanies.

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FROM Boston I returned to New York by steam, embarking at Providence. On this expedition my usual sea-luck attended me, inasmuch as we were obliged to drop the anchor in mid-channel between Long Island and the main land, in consequence of a heavy easterly fog, through which the eye could not penetrate above twenty yards. After lying there all night and half the succeeding day, the captain determined to send out a boat to ex

EXPLORING PARTY.

105

plore, in hopes of obtaining information or bearings by which he might continue his course. As I was weary of inaction, I jumped into the boat and took an oar; there were three others besides myself and a steersman: we pushed off armed with only a compass, and in three minutes lost sight of the steamer. Like Satan of old

"From them we went

This uncouth errand sole; and we, for all
Ourselves exposed with lonely steps to tread
Th' unfounded deep, and through the void immense
To search with wandering quest a place."

We rowed steadily on in order that the compass might not be disturbed, and the only sound that broke upon the ear through the thick pulpy haze, was the melancholy tolling of the steam-boat bell which became gradually fainter and fainter, till at length it died away altogether.

Several times we rested on our oars, and the coxswain proposed to return, a motion which I always negatived, as I thought we should be laughed at if we went back without conveying any information, and I knew that we were in a channel which could not be more than ten or fifteen miles wide, so that we had little fear of being starved, unless we were carried out to sea. Again we rowed on, and again the faint chime of the bell was heard as the lazy breeze veered and hauled, and gradually died away; but even this ceased to be of much avail, as one sailor thought the steamer was astern of us,

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EXPLORING PARTY.

another that she was on our larboard, another on our starboard quarter: we still pulled a-head by compass, and were soon rewarded by hearing a distant roar which we knew to be breakers, but owing to the state of the atmosphere the sounds were so indistinct, that we could not agree from whence they came. We pulled, perhaps, two or three miles before we made the shore, but then it was merely a low line of rocks, by which none of my companions could calculate whether it was island or main-land, or even ascertain on which side the channel they were; however, after pulling a mile or two along the coast, we made a light-house, which they recognized, and taking accurate bearings, we put the boat about and steered due north-west, which was the point at which we calculated the steamer's anchorage; determining, after rowing a certain distance, to cruise about till we heard the bell. The plan succeeded, and we reached her with very little deviation from our north-west course, having been absent between two and three hours. Altogether it was to me a very pleasant excursion: I obtained some hard exercise, as we had but four oars, and the boat was meant for six; and there was something mysterious in the chaotic darkness of our course that course that gave the excitement of danger without its annoyance.

On my return to New York, I quitted the gaiety and noise of the hotel for a quiet lodging, and resolved to spend a few weeks in the enjoyment of the pleasures of society. Of these although it

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107

was not properly speaking the gay season — I had enough, and more than enough, to satisfy my utmost desires, and the time passed as rapidly as it is wont to do, under the influence of hospitality, amusement, and I hope, I may add, friendship.

On the 23rd of October I left New York for Philadelphia, which journey is usually performed in little more than half a day, by the combined exertions of steam-boat and railroad opposed to the vis inertia of their respective antagonist elements. I preferred, however, driving at leisure through the quiet woods of New Jersey to Bordentown, where I spent the evening, and found the whole village in a state of excitement, owing to the recent arrival of a caravan of wild beasts. Of course I went to see it. The exhibition of animals was commonplace enough, with the exception of a very fine black-maned African lion, and a young female elephant, which last had been saved from the wreck of an English vessel, on board of which she had been so smitten by the beaux yeux of a bull-dog, that she could not be prevailed upon to leave the wreck till her canine swain was induced to jump into the water, and she followed him of course this tender couple have not been separated. Though the wild beasts were of an ordinary description, not so were the caravans and vehicles in which they were transported; of these there were ten or twelve, each drawn by four or six grey horses, no other colour being admitted: they were accompanied by an excellent German band, and

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DESCENDANT OF WALLACE.

their puffs or show bills would put to shame the paltry efforts of Messrs. Wombwell, Charles Wright, or even those of a candidate for Westminster.

On the following day I arrived in Philadelphia. As I proposed revisiting this city in the winter, I made but a short stay; but during the few days which I did remain there, I experienced much kindness from the two or three families with whom I was acquainted; and among other inducements to return, I must not forget that I heard the harp played in a manner never excelled by any performer, professor, or amateur. As the fair harpiste was one whom I had the pleasure to number among my acquaintance, I looked forward to the winter months when I might again enjoy a musical treat, in hearing so exquisitely played an instrument which is linked with all the earliest associations of

hood.

my child

At Baltimore I met and conversed with an elderly gentleman of the name of Wallace. In early life he had attended the classes at Edinburgh, and studied under Dr. Black and others. He boasts of being the only remaining lineal descendant of William Wallace, and still uses the arms and motto of that hero: he mentioned to me that he was once in an engraver's shop in Edinburgh, giving the requisite instructions for cutting his seal, when the Earl of Buchan, who was accidentally present, examined the arms and motto, and said, "Sir, there is only one family remaining entitled to these, and

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