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THE FASHIONS.

So many families in Paris, of all classes, are in mourning, that, up to this time, this has considerably diminished the brilliancy of the Parisian fetes, which, at this season of the year, are so numerous. Many fashionable people have not yet commenced their receptions. Several important marriages are about to take place; and we will endeavour to describe a few toilets in preparation for these events.

One of the brides is, to be attired very simply, but elegantly. Her dress is to be of white satin, of very rich quality, with a plain but very full skirt, and plain body, with a sash fastened at the side; this sash having long ends rounded at the bottom, and trimmed with a narrow gauffered blonde. The top of the neck is finished off with a gauffered blonde to correspond; and the under-sleeves consist of tulle puffings, with gauffered blonde between each puffing. The coiffure is a wreath of orange blossom, mixed with white rosebuds and jessamine; this wreath is made open behind, to allow the hair to fall in luxuriant curls between the flowers. A plain veil of tulle d'illusion, reaching to the bottom of the skirt, completes this elegant but recherché toilet.

The bride's mother is to wear a ruby velvet dres; the front of the skirt and the body being trimmed with black Spanish lace. A black velvet shawl, with round ends, embroidered in silk and jet, and triinmed with two deep black lace flounces, is to accompany this dress; with a bonnet in white velours épingle, trimmed with small black and ruby feathers, the same colour as the dress.

A friend of the bride's is to wear a bright green silk dress, brocaded with beautiful bouquets of flowers; the body made à la Louis XV., cut square in front, with a plastron of white satin, and trimmed with white satin bows, diminishing in size towards the waist. The sleeves are half-long, and faced with white satin. A narrow Valenciennes lace is put round the body; and a diamond cross, tied round the neck with a narrow black velvet, is to be worn with this dress.

The bride's sister has the same kind of dress, with a grey ground, and a black velvet basquine, with collars and sleeves in Brussels lace.

Two charining toilets we saw prepared for the ball to celebrate the marriage, consisted of a white tulle dress, trinned at the bottom of the skirt with double flounces of the same material. Over the under-skirt, a tunic or upper-skirt reached to where the flounces commenced. This tunic was covered with puffings of tulle, each puffing being separated by a wreath of flowers. The berthe consisted of tulle puffings, with flowers between, to match the tunic, with a large bouquet in front, and a small one on either shoulder.

The other dress was of white Chambéry gauze, embroidered with white silk, and small blue stars. It had nine narrow flounces, with a space between each-each flounce being headed by a ruched blonde.

Another entirely white dress was trimmed

with ivy, and accompanied by a wreath consisting of ivy, hawthorn, and anemones.

HEADDRESSES for balls are generally made small at the sides, with coronets and cachepeignes. The flowers are sometimes divided in two rows behind-one row being placed underneath the hair, and the other on the top of it. A wreath we saw was made in that manner with violets, with a small round bunch of white rosebuds in the front, and a small bunch of the same flowers behind-the hair being dressed between the violets and rosebuds. Another round wreath was composed of tea-roses and large velvet heartsease. Again, headdresses are mounted with flowers only in the front, and with leaves behind; we remarked a very pretty one, consisting of white chrysanthemums and white geraniums, with green leaves at the back.

BONNETS are worn with the fronts very much raised in front, with rather long curtains, and are generally made in two colours and in two different materials Some have a velvet foundation with a transparent edge, others are of thicker material in the front, with soft tule crowns covered with bows of ribbon or bouquets of feathers. The mixture of black and white still continues very much in favour; the colours besides, which are more generally worn, are lilac, violet, Solferino, or Magenta.

A simple, but at the same time an elegant bonnet, was composed of white velours épingle, and trimmed with a black velvet fanchon, spotted with gold. The curtain of white velours épingle was bound with a crossway pi-ce of velvet spotted with gold, and the bonnet was trimmed with a bunch of black velvet primroses also intermixed with gold.

The front and head-piece of a Solferino silk bonnet was divided by an insertion of ruched black lace; the curtain was of black velvet, and the bonnet in front was trimmed with rosettes of ribbon and ruched lace placed alternately, a sinall jet buckle being fastened in the middle of each rosette. A violet-coloured velvet bonnet was trimmed with broad ribbon to match the velvet, crossed on the foundation, with the ends falling over the curtain, the small space between the ribbon on the bonnet being filled up with a black lace insertion. The bandeau was composed of violet-coloured flowers with gold centres, with a small end of black lace falling on each side.

A white tulle bonnet may be trimmed with black lace lappets, and fastened at the top by large velvet heartsease. The bandeau should be composed of small feathers, mixed with flowers to correspond with those on the outside of the bonnet. We must not omit noticing one more very pretty bonnet; the front of it was made of white velours épingle, and the back or foundation of green velvet, and trimmed with white and green feathers. A bouquet of these feathers was placed inside the bonnet with a velvet bow, into which a large white feather was fastened. This feather forms the bandeau to the bonnet, is then carried to the outside, where

it is secured, the end falling gracefully on the right-hand side.

Many DRESSES are being made with plain skirts, and with no trimming whatever but a sash, with ends fastened at the side; these ends being trimmed with a small frill of the same material as the dress, or black lace. Other dresses are made with a broad band of velvet at the top of the hem; others with tiny flounces arranged on the front of the skirt, apron fashion. Many persons have their dresses made now with two bodies, so that they may be used for evening toilets or those moins habillies. The following came from the house of a very good dressmaker:-The skirt of a light green silk dress was trimmed with three narrow ounces of a darker shade of green, these flounces being put on with a space between each. The high body of the light shade was corded with the dark green, and fastened with dark green silk buttons to match. The berthe of the low body was made of folds of the two shades of green, placed alternately with puffings of tulle in between. A grey silk was made, with a sash to match and three narrow flounces in Solferino silk, at the bottom of the skirt. The buttons on the front of the body, and the frill on the sash, were made of Solferino silk.

A black silk dress was trimmed at the bottom with three narrow flounces corded with lilac, these flounces being headed by a broad band of velvet; ten very narrow flounces corded in the same manner were placed up the front of the skirt, apron fashion.

Large velvet PALETOTS, trimmed with sable and various kinds of fur, are at present the favourite out-door garment, except for visites de grande cérémonie, when SHAWLS, or EMBROIDERED VELVET MANTLES, trimmed with very broad lace or guipure, are preferred.

ŽOUAVE JACKETS are as much worn as ever; the handsomest of these being made of velvet, and embroidered or braided in gold, steel, silver, or jet. They are also made in embroidered cachemire-black, blue, or crimson.

OPERA, or EVENING CLOAKS, are principally white, mixed with gold; and are made with a square hood, ornamented with long gold tassels.

For young people, CLOAKS for evening wear are made of a new material, half wool and half satin. This new material, a kind of plush, is sometimes striped in gold or colours.

For dinner, or half-evening toilet, le corsage Russe has had a great success. It is composed of puffings of tulle, net, or muslin, mingled with narrow black velvet. The top of the neck is cut square, and bordered by a row of velvet; and the sleeves are also composed of puffings mingled with the same trimming.

Amongst the novelties which give so much charm to the mise Parisienne, we must mention the long embroidered velvet WAISTBANDS and SASHES, which may be worn with any dress, but are particularly elegant with white dresses; also the pretty Bows for the neck; and CUFFS made in velvet, satin, &c., and embroidered in gold; the IMPERATRICE CRAVATS; and the graceful little BAGS, or POUCHES, which are worn suspended from the waistband, underneath the Zouave jackets.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLOURED PLATE.

1. BALL DRESS.-COIFFURE FERRARIS.The hair is dressed in small curls, and the flowers of the headdress pinned into each curl separately; it is dressed low behind in curls falling on the shoulders. The dress is made of white tulle, trimmed with convolvolus of various colours, or small pink roses and green leaves; the under-skirt being of white silk. The body is very low, pointed in front, and with a berthe of tulle arranged in folds or pleats; and small tulle sleeves, looped up, to show much of the arm. The white silk skirt is gored on each side, so that it is put on the body almost plain; the skirt increasing in fullness towards the bottom. The tulle skirt is composed of puffings arranged spirally, commencing from left to right; these puffings diminish in size towards the waist. A beautiful bouquet of convolvolus, or roses, is placed in the front of the body, and a wreath of the same flowers is carried to the left shoulder, round the top of the body behind, to the right shoulder, whence it falls on to the hips at the left side. The wreath continues round and round the skirt, and finishes at the bottom by two large bouquets on the left side.

2. DINNER, OR TOILET DE VILLE.-The bonnet, of black velvet, is trimmed with roses and white feathers, and broad white ribbonstrings. Three roses are placed at the top of the bonnet behind, and the same number of flowers in the middle of the bandeau. The bonnet projects in front, and recedes at the sides; the crown being soft, and falling in a kind of puff on the curtain. The curtain is made of black velvet; and a long white feather falls from the roses on the side of the bonnet, and rests on the curtain behind. Robe Impéra trice is made of green satin, trimmed with bands of sable; the body being cut square in front, and almost high behind. The body and skirt are made in one, without a seam at the waist; and the latter has two little pockets in front, also trimmed with sable. The sleeves are large, and pleated into an epaulette; the fulness at the bottom being gathered into a band, which is hidden by the fur trimming, The top of the body is finished off by a band of sable, which continues down the front of the body and skirt to within eight inches from the bottom. A band of fur is also placed quite at the bottom of the skirt. The under-sleeves and chemisette are of white muslin. A square fur collar might be worn with this dress, cut out exactly the shape of the dress; for outdoor wear this would be very comfortable. DESCRIPTION OF THE BERLIN PATTERN.

The pattern given this month is for ornamenting a bracket, or window cornices, and is also suitable for a table-cover border, or to ornament a mantelpiece. It will be followed next month by the other half of the pattern, when we will engrave one of those pretty brackets so fashionable in Germany. For a bracket or table-cover border the pattern should be worked in single wool, but for a window cornice on very coarse canvas and in double wool. When completed, the work should be lined and finished off with a tassel at each point,

BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNERS IN

FEBRUARY.

SOUPS.-Baked Soup, Barley Soup, Soup à la Julienne, Winter Pea Soup (Yellow), Soup à la Solferino (Sardinian), Verinicelli Soup.

FISH.-Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, turbot, whiting.

MEAT.-Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. POULTRY. Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets, turkeys.

GAME.-Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

VEGETABLES.- Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, various herbs.

FRUIT.-Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, almonds and raisins, French and Spanish plums, prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.

RECIPES.

Stewed Apples and Custard.

(A PRETTY DISH FOR A JUVENILE SUPPER). INGREDIENTS.-7 good-sized apples, the rind of lemon or 4 cloves. lb. of sugar, pint of water, pint of custard.

Mode.-Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water together for ten minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes; let it cool alittle; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423, in Mrs. Beeton's "Book of Household Management." Pour it round, but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table.

Time.-From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. Average Cost-1s.

Apples à la Portugaise. INGREDIENTS.-8 good boiling apples, pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, a layer of apple marmalade, 8 preserved cherries, garnishing of apricot jam.

Mode.-Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the cores; boil them in sugar and water, without being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395, in Mrs. Beeton's "Book of Household Management;" cover the bottom of the dish with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain; pile them neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied citron or apricot jam. and the dish is ready for table.

Time. From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. Average Cost-1s. 3d.

Sufficient for 1 entremets,

THE GARDEN.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The maxim, that "Procrastination is the thief of time," should be written over every gardener's doorway, and stamped on his heart. As the severe weather leaves us, every hour of open weather that the gardener can snatch, for getting on with the spring crops, is of priceless worth to him. The loss of a day now, in seed sowing, may make-in the kitchen garden-all the difference between the securing and the losing of a rotation crop in the coming summer.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Repair whatever damage the frost and wind have done in the destruction of shrubs, plants, edgings, and gravel walks. The walks may be rolled, fresh turf planted in the edging, broken shrubs cut down, and bushels of primroses should be fetched from the woods and planted in every available blank. Tie up tall plants to strong stakes, in anticipation of the high winds setting in at the end of this month. Bulbs, and many herbaceous plants, may be taken up and replanted in open weather. Tender annuals must be sown only on hotbeds or under glass. When they come up, give them a little air, in mild days, but carnations and picotees should have air in abundance, as also calceolarias; this will strengthen them and prevent their fogging off. Cover mats over glasses at night. Topdress auriculas and polyanthuses. Towards the end of the month put in cuttings of chrysanthemums, and give a surface-digging to the whole garden except around newly removed shrubs.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Digging, trenching, and manuring, are still the principal occupations in the kitchen garden. Weeds will soon begin to show, and they must at once be turned in. Celery, borecoles, Chou de Milan, broccoli plants, peas, and beans, must now be regularly earthed up with well broken earth. Make hotbeds for cucumbers and melons. Protect artichokes. Transplant beans. Plant out cabbages from the August seed beds. Sow carrots on warm borders. Plant some of the earliest sort of potatoes. The Ne Plus

Vitra, or Champion pea, may be put in some time this month, with a fair chance of success. Give fresh coverings to sea-kale and rhubarb, and make sowings, every week, of small salads in hotbeds.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Prune vines in the beginning, and plant trees before the end of the month: slight frosts will not hurt young trees half so much as the cutting winds of March. Lay in grafts, under a north wall or hedge, to be ready for working next month. Top-dress old trees, and remove suckers from all fruit trees. Finish the nailing up of wall trees as speedily as possible, and cover their blossoms to retard them. Let all gooseberry and currant trees be pruned forthwith, and some soot cast around their roots, which will prevent, in a measure, caterpillars attacking them. The plantations of strawberries should now be cleared, and have their spring dressing; and, towards the middle or latter end of the month, fresh plantations may

be made,

GHC Cherishwomans CoNVERSAZIONE

bling story about "having lived with a family fifteen months, and about the mistress having finished her education in France, and since married a tradesman. When asked by her better half how to spell or pronounce many English words, she is unable to do so. and says, being away fron England so long, is unable to tell him." AN MAY wants to know "if that is the way uucation is attended to in France; if so, I have been under a great mistake" "Also, if it is etiquette in France for ladies. during meals, to continually keep putting their hands in their head, or rubbing their hair back with their hands, as one is apt to think that a person knowing so little as they pretend of English customs, that foreigners have most disagreeable ways. Noticed and remarked by all at table during her absence, as the mistress of the house, I always thought until now was expected to behave as such, and set an example to young people."-What is the question we are here expected to answer, we confess we don't know. With respect to the manners and customs of our Continental neighbours, some of their ways are not as ours; but in good society. the same polite and easy manners are seen as in England. We have never heard, we may add, that there is anything remarkably haut ton in playing with the hair during dinner; but it is as well to be liberal-minded, and think the habit is admired by some.

MODEST VIOLET is anxious that we "should send her word how to hate a person;" and goes on to tell us that, in her father's house, there resides a young man, who is her father's pupil; and she says, "he loves me, and I love him, but he does not intend to marry me, because I am only one year younger than himself." This she naturally thinks is very foolish." But there are more Richmonds in the field. Immediately following the first avo al, is her declaration-"I love a cousin who is at Egypt, but he is eighteen years older than myself, but I love him better than any one in the world." After all this, we don't think we are called upon to give our aid. MODEST VIOLET, with her two strings, or rather, her two beaux, will get through the winter, we fancy, without our specific for causing hate to grow within her bosom.

KAT, Hamburgh.- We confess to have remarked it. The writers of pious tales and novels, having for their readers a strong religious party, do certainly boldly venture into phases of thought and action which those only who write for the general body of the public are compelled, and properly, we think, to eschew.

JANET P-Historians have compiled, novelists have romanced, essayists have criticised, and, as yet, all search in vain for the real character of Mary, Queen of Scots. Some will have it that never was woman so wronged as she, and delight in painting Elizabeth in the darkest colours, so as to throw up the purity of the beautiful Mary; others accuse her in downright terms, of sinning against many of God's commandments, declaring her guilty of the murder of her husband. Darnley. We agree, however, with a late reviewer on this subject, in thinking that the latter crime was never brought home to Mary. Not that she might not have been capable of such a crime,-for had she not as instructors in queencraft those monsters the Guises, to whom stabbing and poisoning were familiar?but that, at that moment, it was good for her that Darnley should live, whilst for some of Mary's enemies it was well that he should die. Statesmen

in those times were not over-squeamish about a life or two, and Mary's husband was in possession of some awkward secrets concerning some of the Scots nobles. It is true that Mary's conduct after the Kirk of Field tragedy may be taken almost to prove her an accessory after the fact, and thus she must share in a portion of the guilt of the real perpetrators.

DARN NO MORE will obtain the Patent Stockings at most respectable hosiers'.

A BACHELOR asks a question which must, we fear, remain one: which is the best-a Flirt or a Prude?

M. A. D.-Moulds and materials for making wax flowers may be obtained of Mr. Mintorn, 33, Sohosquare, London.

D. N.-We believe that a piece of silk tied tightly round the wart is often efficacious in removing it. ANNOTT LISLE'S request will receive attention. M. S.-The size of our Buff pattern sheet is not large enough to give the patterns of large jackets.

CAMILLA EVELYN, RUTH. AND OTHERS-The cover, with title-page, preface, index, and large envelope for holding the patterns for Vol. 1 of the ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINE, new series, is now ready, and will be sent to any part of the kingdom for 12 postage stamps.

R. H. will probably see in our next number a night-dress bag.

ALFREDA.-Let well alone; there are as many admirers of what you complain of, as of the opposite form.

DESESPOIR. The first six numbers should be bound twelve make too thick a volume (see answer to CAMILLA EVELYN).

M. A. M. GIAOUR.-If you are very intimate with the bride, you may, at the same time that you return your cards, write a congratulatory note; other. wise, merely send your cards.

M. D. wishes to inform Ina that "a little rubbing with bran and cold water each morning will cure the dark specks in her face." M. D. adds-"In return for this recipe, I expect her to give 6d. to some poor person."

LOTTIE "Havet's Complete French Class-Book," 7s., is a good book. We will get it for you if you wish.

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R. DIXON.-We fear the Illuminated Almanacks in Beeton's Annual will be damaged by being sent by post The booksellers will have no objection to procure them for you through their London Agent. QUIZ. Apply to Messrs. Block and Sons, or Faudel and Phillips, Newgate-street. London. DECLINED WITH THANKS. - Po lux; E. J.; Bessie. NOTICK TO THOSE WHO SEND MSS., POEMS, &c.— The Editor regrets that it is quite impossible to acknowledge, in the limited space at his disposal, all the contributions he receives. Nor is he able to return unaccepted MSS.; consequently, copies should be retained by the writers.

NOTICE TO SUBSCRIBERS.

Covers for Vol. 1 of the ENGLISHWOMAN'S DOMESTIC MAGAZINK (New Series), with title-page, preface, index, envelope for holding the pattern sheets, Berlin patterns, &c., and directions for binding, are now ready, price 1s. each Sent free by post to any address on receipt of 12 postage stamps.

TO OUR SUBSCRIBERS. Our Subscribers are respectfully invited to give their orders at once to their Booksellers for the regular supply of the Numbers of this Magazine, so as to be certain to receive them as soon as published, and with the Fashion Plates and Berlin Wool Work Patterns complete, the Publisher begging to notify that he will not undertake that the Fashion Plates will be issued with the Magazines beyond the month in which they are originally published. London, 248, Strand, W.C.

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