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Miscellanies.

SEQUEL TO THE "VISIT TO WATERLOO."*

TO THE EDITORS,

- I HAD intended to confine myself, in this paper, to some remarks on the state of society in that part of the Netherlands through which I passed; but your juvenile readers will, probably, not be displeased to find these observations blended with occasional notices of the general appearance of the country, and of the principal objects which attract a traveller's attention.

Sailing early in the morning, from the Isle of Thanet, we lost sight of the North Foreland about noon, and soon after approached the coast of France, closely enough to look into the roads of Dunkirk, and to see, without the aid of a glass, the white flag which was flying on the steeple. A French lugger boat, with twelve men on board, crossed our stern, and the crew used very menacing gestures, but they did not molest

us.

At dusk we were within sight of Ostend, and came to anchor for the night in a calm sea; but, about midnight, a gale sprang up, which, for several hours, rendered the motion of the vessel distressingly violent. The next morning, an hour after sun rise, we entered with great rapidity the harbour of Ostend, which is chiefly formed by a vast wooden pier, stretching out more than half a mile into a boisterous and dangerous sea, and flanked by a battery of six heavy pieces of cannon. In a few minutes our vessel took her birth close in with the quay; and we were instantly surrounded by a motley group of

custom-house officers, porters, and ragged boys, who addressed us in a jargon of tongues, some speaking the Flemish language, some broken English, and some the French;-the last of which I found to be the most convenient medium of intercourse, not only at Ostend, but in all the towns in the Netherlands.

Stepping for the first time on a foreign shore, I was conscious of feelings which I cannot well describe. The novelty of every object excited a high degree of interest, and irresistibly claimed investigation; yet caution restrained my eagerness, for the ground did not seem to be as firm under my feet as that which I had left: and the pleasing consciousness of safety to which I had been accustomed in my native land had, I found, in a great measure forsaken me. Advancing into the town, and growing more familiar with the scene, my attention was arrested at every step by ludicrous attempts at English inscriptions on the fronts of the houses, by the sight of women arrayed in tattered clothes and splendid necklaces, or of ostlers and postillions with gold rings dangling at their ears, while I had perpetually to repel some officious offer to direct me to an hotel,so that I made but little progress for an hour after I had landed.

A gentleman of Ostend, to whom I had a letter of credit, introduced me to the commander of the garrison, who very politely granted me the necessary passports, and added to them some

Baptist Magazine for September.

advice as to the manner of pur-cence in its general structure, and an elegance in its statuary and paintings, which far exceed any thing I had before seen, and which I should admire in any place, but one that is professedly devoted to the worship of Jesus Christ. Such is the divine sim

suing my journey. A number of Belgic recruits, training for the field, some English regiments just disembarked from the transports, and the vicinity of a large market, rendered the port and town of Ostend a very busy scene. Amidst the crowd I perceived a consider-plicity of his religion, that I beable number of persons walking lieve it has never yet stooped to in one direction; and, following put on these meretricious ornatheir steps, 1 soon found myself ments. Had the author of "the in a large church, which was Velvet Cushion" himself been filled with disgusting images, en- with me during all the splendour chanting pictures, and deluded of the evening service, I cannot worshippers. Around the ex- say how much he might have terior of the church, too, there admired" the trappings of the is at every corner a crucifix, or throne, or the curtains of the an image of the Virgin, which sanctuary:" but I think he must receive far more attention from have exclaimed, "This, though it their votaries, than the British is the religion of cathedrals, is people pay to a religion infinitely not the religion of the Son of more pure and exalted. God." I could see no traces of The town of Ostend has many the second commandment in all marks of modern improvement the church. While, through all in the streets, as well as around the city, I had inquired in vain the harbour. These are chiefly for a Bible in the Flemish lanthe work of Napoleon; but a guage,-while I looked into the merchant assured me, that the Missals, and saw every word of heavy impositions necessary to them in a tongue unknown to the defray the expense of these erec- people, while I beheld the tions, had ruined most of the crowds who entered the church principal inhabitants. The canal crossing themselves with holy to Bruges, an ancient and stu-water, and bowing down to graven pendous work, is filled at high-images, while I surveyed on water to the level of the sea, and every side superbly painted winin it vessels of five or six hundred dows and rows of tapers contons burden ride very commodi- trived to throw a "dim religiously. Along this canal a large ous light" over the numerous passage boat, drawn by horses, congregation, I said, "Oh! that passes to and from Bruges every the Sun of Righteousness might evening; the distance is twelve arise upon them, with healing in miles, and the fare but a single his wings!" I fear I did not, on franc for each person. this occasion, pity the priests in At Bruges, a city which ap- their gorgeous apparel as much pears much larger than Bristol, as I ought to have done; but I paid as much attention to the certainly the people appeared to elegant squares and public build-me like those who wandered on ings, as a stay of ten or twelve hours would admit, and my trouble was well repaid. The great church exhibits a magnifi

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the mountains of Israel as "sheep without a shepherd;" or, as those among whom " grievous wolves had entered, devouring the flock."

On this occasion I was accompanied by a Graduate of a British University. Returning from the church, he said, “If I had not been brought up a Protestant, I think I should be of this religion; it is the finest,-it is the most solemn I ever saw." "Have you considered," said I, "that God is a spirit, and that none but that worship which is in spirit, the worship of the understanding and of the heart, can possibly please Him, or profit the worshipper?" "I confess," said he, "I have thought very little on the subject." From Bruges to Ghent by the canal is twenty-four miles, through a flat and uninteresting country. A magnificent barge accommodates more than one hundred persons with a passage and an elegant dinner, served up on board, for the small sum of five francs each. On entering Ghent, which is considerably more extensive than Bruges, my attention was arrested by an air of majesty diffused over the principal parts of the city. The great height and extent of the dwelling houses well assort with the immensity of the public buildings; while large canals, introduced into the principal openings, add greatly to the grandeur of the scene. The largest church, which my guide called "L'Eglise Boven," has an exterior as imposing as that of Canterbury cathedral, and its interior is still more grand than that of the great church at Bruges. It is enriched by a profusion of sculpture, and paintings on scripture subjects by Flemish masters; a view of which has rendered me indifferent to almost all the exhibitions which I had been most accustomed to admire. There is a modern painting, "The Annunciation," by Lance, which would, I apprehend, lose nothing

of its high estimation, if placed by the side of Mr. West's picture of " Christ rejected.”

From Ghent to Brussels the country is highly cultivated, and the scenery is agreeably diversified by rising woodlands and elegant villas. The distance is thirty miles, and the usual conveyance is the public diligence, which greatly resembles in its appearance an English tilted waggon. It is drawn by five horses, and carries nine inside passengers, and three outside, seated in a cabriole, a kind of covered coach-box attached to the front. The fare is five francs and a half; and this sum entitled each of us to be miserably shaken on a paved road for nine hours, ere we arrived at the capital of Brabant.

Brussels is equal to Ghent in ancient grandeur, and in modern elegance it is far superior. the former, the great marketplace and the town-house, with its lofty steeple, are instances which will attract the attention of every traveller: and the latter is displayed to great advantage in the superb square called "La Place Royale, the park and its surrounding buildings. The palace of Laken, the royal residence, about two miles from the city, well deserves a visit, for the beauty of its surrounding views as well as the extreme elegance of its furniture; but still more for the instruction which the mind receives by observing that there is not a cornice, or a table, or a chair, on which Napoleon has not fixed the imperial eagle. Will the present royal owner, I am ready to ask, suffer these memorials of folly and ambition to remain? Should he do this, it would, perhaps, display some greatness of mind, and tend to excite a belief that he may hold

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the palace by a tenure less frail | restraint on native vanity; and in than that of its late possessor. the other, the hope of immortality But Brussels, at this time, ex- | had communicated none of its hibited objects far more interest-elevation. To contemplate such ing to a thoughtful mind than society may be useful, to dwell royal palaces. On almost every in it would be miserable. "To door, through many of the largest | wear out time, and waste the day," streets, was inscribed the word all ranks have recourse to amuse"Blessés," (wounded,)" dix ment: music, dancing and cards blessés," "quinze blessés," &c. are their perpetual employ. These inscriptions were designed to guide the army surgeons in their morning walks. Eleven thousand of the brave men who had been wounded at Waterloo were then said to be in the city; and I learned from one of the surgeons that the cases were in general very severe, and the daily burials very numerous. I could not, however, find that my | esteemed countrymen had any of those advantages of a religious nature, which their situation rendered so truly desirable; and it was distressing to me to observe, that multitudes who witnessed these afflictive scenes themselves abandoned to despicable frivolity and dissipation.

At every hotel parties of musicians perform during the dinner, and perambulate the streets the rest of the day. I was attracted by the superior performance of one of these parties, and on a nearer approach I could see that it consisted of an elderly woman and two young persons, who were evidently her son and daughter: the latter displayed some sense of propriety, but the mother discovered none. The behaviour of several officers, to whom they were performing, soon forced me to retire; but such scenes and such parents were to be met with in were every street.

Much that I saw at Brussels will not bear description: but a few additional remarks may impart useful knowledge to youth who travel, and to those under whose direction they are placed.

Descriptions of the state of manners in Paris almost every one has read, and from these a pretty accurate idea may be formed of the levity which is diffused I had occasion to observe that, through the mass of society in on the continent, the path to vice Brussels, and which extends its is, at its entrance, much less disinfluence to the neighbouring gusting than it is in England, and cities. In some instances the men on this account proportionably discover a degree of natural more ensnaring. A visitor from thoughtfulness; but I searched in this country might be placed in vain for that delicacy of manners the worst of company, while he which in Britain is the ornament had scarcely any suspicion of his of female society. In Brussels danger; since there appears to be the women formed the great ma- no visible boundary between the jority of every crowd: and while virtuous and the vicious parts of the countenances of the young society, but both are perpetually appeared destitute of all care, blended under one general mask those of the old proclaimed an of easy politeness. It were better, absence of all dignity; in the | surely, that wickedness should alone instance, the wisdom that | ways wear her own garb, in order is from above" had impressed no that the good might have warning

of her approach. Among a nu-| Belgian bishops have, since that

period, presented to the King of the Netherlands, against all attempts to introduce liberty of conscience into their provinces. These fetters must be broken; but it is improper to take the work out of those hands in which Divine Providence has placed it. May the name of William be come as dear to the Netherlands, and for the same reason, as it has long been to Britain! Į could not refrain, however, from conversing with some of the children, and youth, whom I found greatly ignorant of the first principles of religious knowledge. I saw gratitude sparkling in the eye of some interesting lads, to whom I expressed my wishes that

merous company walking on the banks of a canal, I saw nothing offensive in the dress of the women, and, for a while, nothing censurable in their manners: but, when a company of officers appeared, I found, both to my surprise and regret, that a very large proportion of the company had disguised, under the most pleasing appearances, all that desolates virtuous society: and I saw, with still greater pain, that parents could continue for hours, with their sons and daughters by their side, unalarmed and unconcerned amidst scenes which must awfully pollute the early mind. Let British parents be careful how they unnecessarily expose their rising charge to these dan-I had leave to instruct them. gers; and let the young man, who would make this tour, be aware of the necessity of taking with him a wise counsellor and an obedient ear.

One of them followed me, in a most engaging manner, to the vessel, and took leave of me with peculiar affection. The streets of Bruges were full of these interestThe facilities which are now ing objects: beholding them I afforded for visiting the Nether-exclaimed, "Happy England!" lands: at a comparatively trifling I had almost forgotten to men, expense, are strong inducements tion, that, through all the Neto the journey, and, under proper therlands, the people manifest regulations, much useful know- the utmost contempt of the Sabledge may be gained by it, with- bath. At Ghent, on that day, out incurring any considerable every place of amusement was danger. The period, I hope, crowded, the billiard-tables exwill arrive, though at present it posed to open view, and the is delayed by papal tyranny, streets full of stalls, as at a public when pious travellers will be per- fair. When I compared this conmitted to use all those means for tempt of divine ordinances with the moral improvement of the their strict observance of their inhabitants, which have been so own superstitious appointments, successful in other countries. II said, "Full well ye reject the heartily wished for some religious tracts in the Flemish language; but I am not sure that it would have been wise or safe, in the present circumstances of the Netherlands, to attempt to distribute them. My doubts on this head are strengthened by the bold remonstrance which the

commandment of God that ye may keep your own tradition.”

It is, indeed, abundantly evident, that "the god of this world hath blinded their eyes;" and, by polluting the only influence that could purify their hearts, has se cured their allegiance to himself, What else can be the effect of a

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