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and the walls are decorated with Mosaics, on a gilt ground which, however, have suffered greatly from the ravages of time. We next descended to a subterrancan chapel built on the spot where the birth of Christ is said to have taken place. An arch, or grotto, is pointed out, in which the birth is supposed to have occurred. It is ornamented with several historical paintings, descriptive of the event from which it derives its sanctity. They are productions of very early masters, and are executed on a gilt ground, similar to some that we saw at Pisa.

This

Opposite to the grotto was a long passage, lighted by two rows of silver lamps. portion of the edifice belongs to the Greek, Armenian, and Latin churches; but the place of nativity is the especial property of the Greek order, and is the most highly appreciated. We were next shown the place where the three Magi came to offer their adorations, and present their offerings to the infant Jesus. This appertains to the Armenians, and is a grotto similar and contiguous to the former, and adorned, like that, with descriptive pictures.

After this we were led to a dome, said to enclose the bones of the massacred infants, but which is held too sacred to be opened. Leaving these vaulted places of Christian veneration, we gladly accepted the invitation of the fraternity to take some refreshment after our fatigue, and were shown into an upper room of the convent, where we seated ourselves on cushions placed on the floor round the room. Sweetmeats, lemonade, and coffee were presented us, (the same spoon sufficing for the whole party-fortunately I was served first.) We then inspected some mother-of-pearl shells, and various sorts of beads manufactured at this place, and made several purchases. The beads, which come from the Dead sea, are very curious, and are held in great estimation, particularly by Catholics.

After tendering our acknowledgments for the civility they had shown us, and taken our leave of the monks, we left Bethlehem, and on again arriving at the Greek convent on the road, we were invited by the superior, who was standing at the gate expecting our return, to enter. Several of the brothers came and joined in the gracious request; and on our acceding to the invitation, we were led into a comfortable room, and took our places on the divan, the good-tempered superior heading the party, on a raised separate seat, at the top of the apartment. Water and towels were served to each guest; mine being, as formerly, ornamented by gold and silver ends. The presi

dent then poured out some liqueur, of which he first tasted; then followed lemonade, scented with otto of roses; and a few minutes after a dinner was served, which proved to us that the merits of a good kitchen were not wanting to the holy establishment. In dividing the poultry, without the aid of knife, or other instrument, except a fork to steady it, our Greek proved, by the expertness of his fingers, that he was a good anatomist among the feathered race. Each person, however, was served with a knife, fork, and spoon. Pomegranates, figs, and

coffee, with a cibouc to each of the gentlemen finished the entertainment; and this being Friday, a day on which the monks abstain from animal food, their attention to us was particularly manifest. Before taking our leave, we looked into the chapel, and were directed to observe the altar, as exhibiting a proof of the present comparative poverty of the establishment; brass candlesticks having been placed on the shrine in lieu of silver, which were sacrificed to supply the exactions of the Turks, and in contribution to the expenses of a war carried on with their own country. But the complaint of extortion is not confined to one sect. Among the poor Jews but very few families are able to support themselves. There is no commerce, and shops are not suffered on terms which admit of their becoming profitable.

We returned to Mr. Amzlac's at half-past four, having had a most gratifying excursion. Mrs. Amzlac we found handsomely dressed for Sabbath, and the house neatly prepared. Montefiore was as delighted as myself with the manner in which the forenoon had been spent. He had visited, in the course of his ramble, the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Jewish place of interment, where he saw the cave of Jeremiah, the tomb of Absalom, and inspected, for a second time, the stone, said to be the last vestige of Solomon's Temple. Friday being the day on which it is the custom to view this only relic of former magnificence, and to indulge themselves in which the Jews, poor as they are, pay their tribute. We passed the Sabbath evening in Jerusalem most happily with our kind host and his family.

Saturday, October 20. Jerusalem.—At dawn of day Montefiore arose and went to synagogue, accompanied by Mr. Amzlac. An hour afterwards I repaired with Mrs. Amzlac, escorted by two male attendants, to the same place of devotion. The gallery was thronged with females, all clad in deep white scarfs, which covered their head and figure. There are no scats, but two were provided for us; the other persons who were presont placing

their handkerchiefs on the ground, and there taking their places. We perceived through the wooden trellis-work that Montefiore was just called up to Sephar; and this being the first Sabbath we had ever spent in Palestine, he offered for all his absent friends individually. Many were the solemn thoughts which rose in our minds, finding ourselves thus engaged in this holy land: the country of our ancestors, of our religion, and of our former greatness; but now, alas! of persecution and oppression. We hear from every

one of the extortions that are levied, and that there is no means of support except such as is provided by the bounty of other countries, with the exception of the little help afforded by the few families who continue here from a principle of religious enthusiasm, and contribute all in their power to the support of the necessitious. There are four synagogues adjoining each other, belonging to the Portuguese, who form the principal portion of the Jewish community. The Germans have only one place of worship, and the greater proportion of the congregation are from Poland. There is also a numerous society at Hebron, eight hours' journey from Jerusalem; but they are in a wretched state of poverty. Still, how delighted should I have been, had time allowed our visiting that town, consecrated to recollection, as the burial-place of the patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, and of Sarah, the mother of Israel; and interesting from so many other circumstances connected with the history of the Old Testament.

After breakfast we paid a visit to the Haham, who expected us. Sweetmeats and liqueurs were handed round, as usual; and, what was more agreeable and refreshing, we received the hearty and paternal good wishes and blessings of the reverend priest, who bestowed them with an affecting cordiality, and said that our visit to the Holy City appeared to them almost like the coming of the Messiah. Mr. Amzlac then requested us to call upon an old lady who had, a few months since, lost her husband. He had been one of the most learned and esteemed rabbis of the place. Our friend was much affected on entering the house and beholding the widow.

On our way home we were accosted by a tall gentleman, in so emphatic a manner that his vehemence led me, at first, to imagine that he was a Turk, come with hostile intentions. We found, however, that he was only endeavouring to express how it would mortify his feelings if we left Jerusalem without paying him a visit. It would have been difficult to refuse an invi

tation so earnestly expressed, and we accordingly accompanied him to his house, which we found to be exceedingly neat, well furnished in the Turkish style, and altogether one of the best we had seen here. The gentleman was about seventy years of age, of a healthful, robust mien, and most cheerful manners: he had returned, the preceding week, overland, from Constantinople, without having encountered the smallest obstruction. We here again accepted refreshment, which its superior quality rendered by no means a difficult task. Every thing, indeed, and not less than the rest, the neatness of the ladies' dresses, exhibiting marks of elegance and refinement.

We remained, on reaching home, a short time to rest, and then proceeded to fulfil our engagement to dine with Mr. Meldel, and prevailed on Mr. Amzlac to accompany us, whereby we hoped to promote unanimity between the Portuguese and German congregations; an object which Montefiore wished to accomplish, it being the ardent desire of Dr. Herschel, who solicited his interference to that effect. The most heartfelt satisfaction was expressed at our presence; every one vied in showing us politeness and attention; and the table abounded with all the delicacies that could be obtained. The female branches of the family were in the same room, but did not sit with us. As Mr. Amzlac had invited Mr. Bell and Captain Anderson to dine with him, he entreated us not to prolong our visit beyond what politeness on our part required. We therefore took leave of our hospitable and worthy entertainers, and found ourselves obliged to partake in a second dinner. Thus there was no deficiency of good cheer for the celebration of this my birth-day, which I never expected to pass at Jerusalem. Montefiore requested Mr. Amzlac to obtain a necklace similar to the one worn by his lady; and having succeeded in his commission, I have been this day presented with it by my dear Montefiore, as a memento of this venerable city, and a birthday present.

We had several arrangements to make during the evening, an early hour having been fixed for our departure the next morning. It was our wish to obtain specimens of whatever curiosities the place afforded; but we could obtain nothing except wine, earth, some embroidery on calicoes descriptive of the most celebrated ancient edifices, soap, a silver cup, an ancient manuscript, and some coins. Of the wine we took a small cask, it being made by families only as it is required for their own immediate supply. No stock is therefore kept; and, as there are no wine

merchants, each person procures his own grapes, and makes it at home.

In the course of the evening we were visited by the superior of the Latin convent, who, among other civilities, expressed a hope that, if ever we renewed our visit to the Holy City, we should not pass his convent without entering. He also expressed regret that our friends did not take up their abode with him, instead of proceeding to the Greek Convent. Great jealousy is said to exist between the different orders, of whom the Armenians are the richest. Montefiore had received an invitation from the governor the day before to pay him a visit. but he excused himself, pleading the shortness of our stay. A second invitation, however, having been sent, he was prevailed on to go this afternoon. His reception was most flattering: coffee and pipes were handed; and his excellency expressed some surprise that Montefiore had not called on him before. He then desired his scribe to add a handsome eulogium to our passport, to which he also affixed his name and seal, and offered to send a guard with us to any place we might wish to visit, whether within or without the walls of the city.

Seventeen rabbis read prayers for us, during the night, in Mr. Amzlac's synagogue; and after two hours' rest, Montefiore joined them in their devotions.

Sunday, October 21. Jerusalem.-The pious sounds from the place of prayer, which was opposite my chamber, awoke me, and I arose with the sun. The necessary arrangements for our journey were speedily made. Captain Anderson, Mr. Bell, and suite, already awaited us below; the mules and guides were at the gate; Armstrong and Paulo were actively placing the luggage; while the Agar, ready mounted on his beautiful charger, with the attendant dragoman, completed the picturesque group. I now descended to perform the unwelcome task of taking my leave of friends, who, although the acquaintance had been of so short a duration, had gained a place in our affections, by their hospitality and their many kind expressions of

regard. The Portuguese high-priest had come, at this early hour, to give us his blessing; nor did I ever behold a more benign countenance, or a more venerable-looking man. Many other respectable members of the congregation also attended, and overwhelmed us with their affectionate wishes. A host of poor widows also, and others, came to ask assistance; but Montefiore had previously arranged this matter with Mr. Amzlac. Coffee and chocolate were served; and our amiable hostess had provided a supply of white bread and small cheeses made at Hebron, with a quantity of cakes and wine for the journey; which were increased by the kind present we had received of a large basket of almond-cakes, and two bottles of his best wine, from the gentleman who had so particularly urged us to accept his house during our stay in the city.

At a quarter before eight we mounted our mules and donkeys, amid the blessings and good wishes of a numerous throng, who followed us to the gates. Farewell, Holy City! we exclaimed in our hearts. Blessed be the Almighty, who has protected us while contemplating the sacred scenes which environ thee. Thankful may we ever be for His manifold mercies! May the fountain of our feelings evermore run in the current of praise, and entire devotion to His will and His truth, till the time shall arrive when "the ransomed of the Lord shall return, and come to Zion with songs and everlasting joy upon their heads!" Isaiah, xxxv. 10.

A fine sunshiny-day brought us safely, though with some fatigue, to the well beyond Abbah-Goush, which we again passed without molestation. A poor Hebrew guide, however, who had remained near me all the way, was detained for his fine. I was not aware of his religion till afterwards, nor of his being in custody; but in about half an hour he overtook us, having paid two piastres. After an excellent meal at the side of the well, we continned our journey to Ramla, which we reached about five o'clock, and were again welcomed by the good brothers of the Greek convent.

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