that his own conviction was that Calendrelli was innocent. It was, perhaps, for this reason that the proceedings were transferred to a man named Mori, not of very good repute, but who still had honesty enough to confirm the presence of the testimonials, among the papers connected with the trial, all of which finally remained in the possession of the Chancellor Pasqualoni. We have already stated that the acts of the Consulta are carried on and completed in secret, without any guarantee for the prisoner. Calendrelli, when accused, could not, according to the tenor of the regulations of this tribunal, either defend himself, or choose an advocate in whom he could trust; he was therefore obliged to take an advocate, ex officio, a man named Gui. The defence was secret, as usual, the prisoner never, in any case, being made acquainted with the nature of the defence made for him, any more than with any other acts of his trial. Yet, by virtue of a trial like this, was this brave and honourable, and most disinterested man, pronounced guilty of theft, and condemned to fifteen years of the galleys for stealing books from the ecclesiastical academy, and five more for stealing arms from the Prince Barberini.

Now comes the question: was this most harsh and unjustifiable sentence passed through the iniquity of the judges, or through the falsification of the acts of the proceeding?amid the darkness that shrouds the legal administrations of Rome can the problem ever be solved? It is certain that the testimonials we have mentioned, and which have been seen by a most honourable Roman gentleman of our acquaintance, as well known and as much respected among the highest English families that seek the eternal city for health or pleasure, as among his fellow citizens, these testimonials abundantly proved Calendrelli's innocence with respect to the first of the charges against him, and the second was positively rebutted by the Prince Barberini's own agent, Giordani, who affirmed that he himself sent the arms as a present to Calendrelli, in acknowledgment of his exertions to save the Barberini palace from injury, but that he was subsequently paid the full value for them. This statement was confirmed by Enea Viti, who was present during the transaction, and was the bearer of the money from Calendrelli to Giordani. drelli's own account tallied with that of both these witnesses.

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The processante Mori in vain endeavoured to corrupt the testimony of Viti, by alternate

promises and intimidations; he could no way shake his integrity, so he revenged himself upon him for it, by getting him sent to prison, where he was kept five months without a shadow of pretext or accusation against him. Calendrelli's advocate, Gui, and several of the judges, affirm that none of the testimonials in his favour appeared in the acts of his trial; but if their affirmation be really true, in proportion as it proves their individual innocence with respect to the verdict, it necessarily implies the most shameful infamy on the part of the public administration; the injustice of Calendrelli's condemnation is equally manifest in either case, and a system cannot be too strongly execrated, which, pandering to the worst passions of human nature, only serves to favour the secret workings of cruelty and vengeance in the sacred name of God! If there were wanting further evidence as to the lofty honour and calm self-possession of this brave and high-souled officer, it would be found in his own announcement of the dreary fate before him, for all the best part of his life, in his letter to his sister, just before leaving his prison.

September 8, 1851.

MY DEAREST SISTER,-Yesterday evening my sentence was notified to me; it is to the following tenor: "Fifteen years to the galleys for robbing, to the prejudice of the ecclesiastical academy; and five years of public labour for robbery of twenty scudi, to the prejudice of the Barberini family; besides which, ignominious death, for treason.' this, by the special favour of his Holiness, has been reduced to twenty years at the galleys

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Before setting out for Palliano or elsewhere, according to my destination, I communicate this to you with the utmost serenity of mind, because I feel that I am no way culpable. Thank my uncle, thank my defender, thank all those who have exerted themselves on my behalf; especially the Prussian minister, to whom present my respects, and entreat him to place at the feet of the king my most heartfelt homage, and my boundless gratitude for the interest he has deigned to take in my case.

I send you my picture; keep it in remembrance of me, but let it be hidden from every eye save your own. I send you also my sheet, pillow-case, trousers, and basin. Collect what linen you can ; shirts, handkerchiefs, and two pair of sheets, and send all to the place of my destination; having previously obtained the consent of the Sacred Consulta, through which you will also send me news of yourself and family.

I beg you, my Lisa, to tranquillize yourself, to preserve your health, and to live for your children. With regard to myself, you will see that the very men who are now so deeply humiliating me, will liberate me from the penalties they have inflicted upon me, as soon as their party-spirit calms down, and they become better acquainted with my in

ground which the traveller passes in Jerusalem, or its neighbourhood, will help to increase the vividness of his emotions. A vast change has taken place in the very clothing of nature here since its fall, and her present apparel is in striking harmony with the later chapters of its history. The olive, the fig-tree, and the vine, still cover many of her hills with their richlyladen branches; even the rose is seen flourishing in bright luxuriousness in the recesses of her valleys, and some of her plains indicate their fertility by plentiful harvests; but there is everywhere some appalling token of desolation, and the traveller can scarcely help feeling that he is in a country of which it might be almost said, without a figure, that the heart of the land is broken.

It is not difficult for a reflecting mind to imagine what a variety of strange-both solemn and pleasurable-emotions must fill the mind of the pilgrim, as he approaches the venerable capital of this singular country. The feeling of awe and melancholy, so natural to the region, is necessarily tempered with that delight which a traveller can scarcely help experiencing on finding himself near the accomplishment of a long and difficult journey. Almost all who have visited Jerusalem describe themselves as having been thus affected.

Little is known respecting the origin of this city, which makes so remarkable a figure in the history of mankind. It is, however, supposed that it was the residence of the ancient monarch Melchisedec, king of Salem; and Scripture informs us that it subsequently became the possession of the Jebusites. As the capital of a nation usually experiences, in the most eminent degree, the various changes of its fortune, Jerusalem, in the time of David and Solomon, was probably the wealthiest city, for its extent, in the habitable world, and justified, without a metaphor, the expressions employed to indicate its greatness and magnificence. The afflictions which its inhabitants experienced in the subsequent wars of the kingdom, were evidently rendered on all occasions more terrible by the wealth and luxury, the stern pride and haughty feeling of security which appear to have characterized them from the earliest period of their establishment in the land. From the description given of the ancient city by Josephus, assisted by a view of the spot on which it stood, it is easy to form a judgment of what must have been its strength, and its power of resisting the attacks of an enemy. It was fortified, he informs us, with three walls, except where it was protected by the better defence which nature

VOL. I. N. S.

had provided, deep and impassable valleys, where one wall was deemed sufficient. These walls enclosed the mountains of Sion and Acra, and encompassed, it is supposed, about the space of an English league. The mountains are divided by a valley; and on the former of them, by much the loftiest of the two, stood the upper town, circling the fortress of David; and on the latter was built the lower town, with the splendid temple occupying the hill known by the name of Mount Moriah, which the Asmonean princes joined to Acra, by filling up the valley which intersected them. Of the three walls above mentioned the historian remarks, that the old one, which formed the strongest portion of the defences, had been an object of careful consideration with both David and Solomon, and of many of their successors.

But never did a city, about to become the prey of a conqueror, offer a spectacle of such magnificence to the eye of its enemy as did Jerusalem. Fitted by its very position, on the summit of hills which seemed to have a meaning in their frown, and hanging over valleys of which the sterility and roughness might be easily imagined to have only been overcome by the special blessings of the God of nature, this city of Zion would have offered a spectacle sufficiently imposing, had it still consisted but of the rude dwellings of the ancient Jebusites. It is not difficult, therefore, to account for the astonishment and even deep emotion with which Titus contemplated the scene before him while preparing his legions for the assault. "Peace be within thy walls, and prosperity within thy palaces," would have been the natural exclamation, probably, of the general under any other circumstances but those in which he was placed. "The Lord shall send the rod of thy strength out of Zion" would have been more ready to rise in his mind, than a feeling that he should be its conqueror and desolator, when he saw before him, in its grandeur, the Temple of Israel's God. Of that most wonderful building of antiquity we can form no conception from any edifice at present in existence; but the historian has described it in language glowing at once with the spirit of religion and patriotism. "The outward face of the Temple," says he, "wanted nothing that was likely to surprise either men's minds or their eyes; for it was covered all over with plates of gold, of great weight, and, at the first rising of the sun, reflected back a very fiery splendour, and made those who forced themselves to look upon it avert their eyes, as they would have done at the sun's own rays. But this Temple appeared to strangers,

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when they were coming to it at a distance, like a mountain covered with snow; for, as to those parts of it that were not gilt, they were exceeding white."

It was against the city thus fortified by all the contrivances of ancient military art, aided by advantages of situation scarcely equalled by that of any other city in the world, that the son of Vespasian planted his standards. History has no page on which she has employed a more fearful eloquence to describe human calamity, than that in which she has depicted the fall of Jerusalem; but the records of its subsequent fate are not without details of ruin and suffering almost as terrible. It was not till after many an attempt on the part of the surviving Israelites to throw off the yoke of the conqueror, and many a fierce and bloody conflict, that Hadrian built, on the ruins of Zion, Elia Capitolina, and covered every spot of ground, which had been hallowed by the worship of the true God, with the grossest emblems of idolatry. The emperor Constantine, with his mother Helena, afterwards filled it with places of Christian worship. An immense addition was thence made to the Christian community; and for near three hundred years, Jerusalem enjoyed comparative peace and prosperity. But in the year six hundred and eleven, Chosrocs, king of Persia, subjected almost the whole of Syria to his sway; and, three years after, led his conquering army into Judea. The intermediate districts offered for some time a barrier to the holy city; but nothing could resist the perseverance of the invader, and Jerusalem, after a vain attempt at defending her sacred walls, saw her streets crowded with the barbaric hosts.

The Persians, however, did not long retain possession of the conquered country. The emperor Heraclius succeeded in effectually expelling them both from Jerusalem and the surrounding territory; and Palestine again remained undisturbed till the renowed Omar, in the year six hundred and thirty-six, laid siege to it at the head of his victorious Mussulmans, and converted it into the chief city of the Mahometan power in the cast. For a considerable period the reign of Islamism remained unshaken; but both Jews and Christians, feeling no diminution in their reverence for the Holy City, continued to traverse its streets and environs, in defiance of the bitter insults heaped upon them by the Turks. The complaints which the pilgrims from Europe brought back to their country, respecting the oppressions they had suffered in fulfilling their vows, at length excited, as is well known, the

zeal of the western princes, and gave rise to that series of memorable wars to which, it is argued, modern Europe owes much of its culture and civility. The success of Godfery of Boulogne again made Jerusalem the capital of a kingdom; but in proportion as the Christians became divided among themselves, the Turkish power recovered strength; and at the close of the thirteenth century the flower of chivalry fell beneath the swords of more than two hundred thousand Moslems, and Jerusalem again saw its walls crowned with the crescent. But the conquerors of the fourteenth century were led by a prince of different character to him who achieved the conquest in the seventh; and the victory was gained under dissimilar circumstances. It is not, however, necessary to search very deeply for the causes which have gradually reduced Palestine to its present impoverished condition. Tyranny and

misrule are at all times sufficient of themselves to engender misery, and in Jerusalem they have had their perfect work.

But to pass from these reflections to my own feelings, I can never be sufficiently thankful to Almighty God for suffering us to reach this city in safety. The obstacles that presented themselves, the dangers with which we were threatened, the detentions and vexations which had actually to be endured, all rose in my mind as I

gave way to the feeling of delight with which I at length saw the fulfilment of my dear husband's long-cherished wish. Nor was my satisfaction a little increased at the recollection that I had strenuously urged him to pursue the journey, even when his own ardour had somewhat abated, and when I had to oppose my counsel to the advice and wishes of our companions.

Mr. Amzlac has a synagogue in the house, and at day-break the male branch of the family assembled at prayers. Notwithstanding the earliness of the hour, and the little rest we had been able to procure, owing to the number of insects which came forth during the night from the cushions of the divan, or sofas, that formed our bed, Montefiore was induced, by the holy feelings so naturally excited in this place, to join them.

Mr. Amzlac's daughter, by a former marriage, came in the morning to offer her services at my toilette. She is not more than fourteen years of age, but is already married; and her husband, who is only one year older, has so feminine an appearance, both in person and style of dress, that we imagined him, the preceding evening, to be a lady. Mrs. Amzlac, who is an exceedingly pretty young woman,

was herself married at thirteen, and is now not more than twenty. This is, however, nothing extraordinary, it being the common custom in the east for marriages to be solemnized as early as the age of eleven or twelve years. The ladies in general wear a profusion of ornaments. A broad, gold belt encircles the waist; but the head is simply covered by the turban, no hair being allowed to escape from its folds, which, when the features and forehead are handsome, is a becoming fashion.

Our breakfast consisted of a cup of coffee and a cake, which was handed round; and we were happy to find Mr. Amzlac, who said our arrival had proved a balm to him, much improved in health. The chief rabbis of the Portuguese and German Jews, attended by the different officers and deputies, together with all the heads of the nation, came to welcome us. These visitors occupied our attention during the forenoon; and after dinner we accompanied our party to see the Greek convent, and then to a large stone, said to be the last relic of the Temple of Solomon. It is held in universal veneration, and is inclosed by a gate, the key of which is held by the Turks. The Jews, who visit it regularly once a week, are obliged to pay every time it is unlocked for them. One of our religion attending us, was recognized by the Turk, who demanded his usual fee; but this claim was resisted, it being argued that, as he simply came as our guide, and it was not the customary day, the exaction was illegal. The dispute created some confusion, and I was somewhat alarmed; but the interference of our Agar prevented the Turk from persisting in his imposition; not, however, without uttering many a threat that he should represent the affair to the go

vernor.

Friday, October 19. Jerusalem. — Having sent our letters of introduction, we had the greatest difficulty imaginable in excusing ourselves from accepting the urgent invitations of the hospitable persons who had prepared rooms for us in their houses, and pressed us, with the most urgent invitations, to sojourn with them during our stay. One of the foremost was a relation of the late high-priest, of the German congregation here, to whom the Rev. Doctor Herschel gave us a letter; but Mr. Amzlac said that it would be offering him the greatest possible affront if we left his house for that of any other friend, having stopped there on our arrival. We were therefore compelled to relinquish the obliging invitations we had received, greatly to the disappointment of those who made them. We could not, however,

resist their entreaties to see the apartments they had prepared for our reception, and which we found to be very nice and replete with every comfort.

While Montefiore proceeded with Mr. Amzlac, to visit some of the sacred spots most esteemed in this revered city, I accompanied Mr. Bell and Captain Anderson to Bethlehem. We were escorted by a young monk from the Greck convent, followed by our Agar, Dragoman, Paulo, and Armstrong. I commenced the journey on a mule, but finding its pace too heavy and fatiguing, I changed it for a donkey, which I found far more agreeable. We obtained, as we proceeded, a good view of the mosque built over the tombs of David and Solomon, and the Mount of Olives. We also passed a ruin said to have been the Tower of Simeon, and the monastery of Elias, which is now occupied by Greek monks. The road was rocky; but fig, olive, and mulberry-trees adorned many of the hills, and the declivities were covered with a gay harvest of the most beautiful wild flowers. After an hour's ride we came to Rachel's tomb, which stands in a valley on the right, near to which is a well at present without water, We dismounted to view this most interesting monument of sacred history. It is formed of four square walls, with Gothic arches bricked up, and is covered by a dome-roof. On entering I was deeply impressed with a feeling of awe and respect, standing, as I thus did, in the sepulchre of a mother in Israel. The walls of the interior are covered with names and phrases chiefly in Hebrew and other Eastern characters; but some few English are to be found among them, and to these I added the names of Montefiore and myself. My feelings of gratitude on this occasion were not a little increased by a knowledge of the circumstance, that only six European females are said to have visited Palestine in the course of a century.

The next object which attracted our attention on the road was a Greek convent, at which the monk, our companion stopped to converse, for a few moments, with the superior of the establishment. Continuing our route, the town of Bethlehem at length appeared in sight, built on a hill; and we were soon seated in the Greek convent, to which we were welcomed by its holy inmates, whose appearance, however, was far less robust than that of their brethren whom we had seen on the way. We were here shown the celebrated chapel said to have been built by Justinian. It is adorned on each side with twelve Corinthian columns, each consisting of one solid piece of marble;