I shall now give a sketch of the routine connected with my first day's quarantine, as I think it will embrace nearly all the ceremonies of the Sanità, and no doubt will be recognized by some of my Indian friends.

Upon the

occasion of having seen Malta at so great a distance, I was a traveller in one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, employed in running once a month with the Bombay mails on that portion of the route embracing Alexandria and Malta, the latter being the vessel's head quarters; part of the homeward mails being dispatched by a government steamer to Marseilles for overland transport to London, and the heavier division, together with the passengers and baggage, transferred to one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's vessels which called at Malta on her way from Constantinople to Southampton; en parenthèse, an old naval lieutenant was on board in charge of the letter-boxes, and which he accompanied in the other vessel to England. When the captain, from the summit of the paddle-box, pointed out the little hummocky object which we hoped would that night afford a haven to our capacious ship, spinning towards it at a rate of eleven miles an hour, a very strong faith was necessary to controvert the idea that our foaming iron monster would run over it in the night, and send it rolling to weedy grottoes deep below-awakening, perhaps, the slumbering divinities of this

once classic sca.

The night set in dark and calm; our little island disappeared; tea, backgammon, and Mary Blane" thumped upon the ship's piano by the little doctor from the county Cork, for an hour wiled away the time; when we heard the cry of "Light on the port bow." We went thudding and rumbling on; and soon on the port quarter a lumpy indistinct object was seen, which, I was told, was the high, detached, and uninhabited rock of "Tilfola; " while stretching before the beam, the loom of Malta is perceptible, our little islet having grown up wonderfully during the last two hours. Several orders were now passed along, such as "All hands ahoy, bring ship to an anchor!". "Forecastle there! keep a good look-out for fishing boats." A blue light was then burned, lighting up, in its glare, decks, men, boats, and rigging, and giving a druggist's-window kind of tinge to all; its fitful blaze, flickering and dancing upon the white funnels, presenting a strong contrast to the impenetrable gloom of the watery world outside us. In a minute or so, the impish-looking figure which, with outstretched arm, held the

*

light from the lee paddle-box, hurled it into the sea, where, conquered by the antagonistic element, it yielded its life in a crackling hiss, and left us in deeper darkness than before. This forms one great disadvantage in showing blue-lights from a steam vessel when going very fast, as the vision of the look-out men, before its recovery from the effect of the glare, is unable to penetrate the pitchy murkiness through which the ship is careering, and which may render the best look-out of no avail. A few minutes after our signal had been burned, we saw, nearly a-head, a little light bobbing up and down-the reply of the pilot's boat awaiting us; we now were crossing the mouth of the Grand Harbour, and running at an obtuse angle, with the rows of twinkling lights indicating the whereabouts of the lofty terraces and auberges of Valletta. Some large objects well up the harbour puzzled us, by their appearing to consist of two and three streaks of light, broken by patches of darkness at uniform intervals; however, some tapering tracery emerging from amid the gloom of town and fortifications, served to explain the mystery,they were the bristling broadsides of Sir William Parker's squadron. We soon had the lantern of St. Elmo throwing its gleams upon our decks, through the halo which appears to surround a light when near it, and the engines were stopped for the purpose of throwing a rope into the pilot-boat to tow her with, no other communication being permitted while in quarantine. The boat, secured to a rope from the paddle-box, was dragged along at a fearful rate, the prow raised on high, and ploughing up floods of silver foam, which, rushing past to the wake, revealed, in its phosphorescent brightness, the stern nearly submerged in a furrow amid high-heaped water, and the greyheaded, bull-necked pilot Paolo standing erect, and guiding his craft with a firm hand, the crew crouching in the bottom to preserve an equilibrium, and showing their pendant Maltese caps alone above the gunwales.

We skirted close to the land on the left side, and when a little way in, a gun was fired as a signal of the arrival of the packet, and which, reverberating loud and long, startled not a little the fairer portion of our passengers, whose curiosity, natural as that of Eve, had at that late hour tempted them to brave the damp decks. Hardly had our cannon's smoke cleared away, ere links of rusty chain, bounding

* Auberges, once the magnificent residences of the knights, and now appropriated chiefly to the troops; the club-house is in the "Auberge de Provence."

along the deck and leaping round the windlass, dashing fire from its iron whelps,* proclaimed the fact of the anchor being let go, and which jumped into its sludgy bed, at the upper part of the harbour, in a snug creek called the Pietà. The stern was secured within a few feet of the rocks, and at an easy speaking distance of the fashionable drive which, winding round the various indentations of Marsamuscetto, passes through Sliema, and is terminated by the Bay of St. Julian.

The captain of the port's boat now came alongside, and a printed paper, having blanks left to be filled in by the captain and surgeon, and containing replies to the printed interrogations of "The name of the vessel "-"The port she is last from"-" Whether she has had communication with any other ship while at sea," &c. &c., was put into a little square box, with a handle of four or five feet long, and something like a wooden warming-pan, were such a thing possible. The end of the handle was held by a person in the boat, and the box rested on the ladder of the steamer; the bill of health, the list of passengers, and other business papers were put in; the lid shut close by the persons in quarantine, and the boatmen with their Pandora's box rowed to the lazzaretto, where, cautiously handled with a pair of tongs, the documents undergo a depuration prior to their perusal by those who fortunately boast of pratique.

Simultaneous with the visit of the Healthoffice boat, the active officers of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, the agent, and the marine superintendent, came alongside, the former politely handing up a supply of the latest"Galignani's" and English newspapers, as a present to the passengers; he brought besides, to anxious expectants, letters much looked and longed for, and which, at the poste restante, awaited their arrival at Malta. One of the steamer's cutters was next lowered, and the iron boxes containing the mails for England, and intended to go through France, were passed into her, and, with the Admiralty agent, were landed at the lazzaretto, where a Maltese post-office clerk took charge, and, having given a receipt, transferred them to one of the government steam-packets, which, in a few hours, started with them for Marseilles. The worthy lieutenant returned on board; a guardiano came off at the same time; the cutter was hoisted up; all hands went below; and, after

*Whelps, strong iron plates encircling the middle part of a windlass, to prevent its being cut by the chain cables.

a quiet cigar on the dew-moistened deck, I also turned in, a little anxious to see what sort of a place we should find ourselves in at daylight.

The earliest dawn saw me sur le pont, as the French think proper to call a deck, dispelling the damps and the dumps with a cup of coffee and a cheroot, the modicum of sleep I had enjoyed since I laid my head down being certainly an infinitesimal one;-the transition to the quiet of a calm anchorage from the shaking and bumping of our vans while crossing from Suez to Cairo,-the grinding upon sand-banks when descending the Nile,-the jostling against loaded corn djermes on the Mahmoudyèh canal, and from the pounding and trembling of the powerful engines of our certainly very lively steamer, was rather too sudden to admit of the system fully appreciating the comforts of the former: so I, till morning watched the glimmer of the nightlamp through the zinc ventilators over my door, and, while listening to uncouth music played by the nasal organ of the political agent of the Ladrone Islands, now and then heard a rattling in the sideboard drawers, as the old Irish stewardess, in a coiffe de nuit of many plaits, foraged for a spoon, to administer some pappy quictus or another to an ill-tempered Indian child, whose monotonous wailing certainly was no anodyne to those who courted repose. My first impression, upon looking around me, was to wonder how we got into our cosy little creek, and many were my speculations as to which was the entrance, so completely land-locked were we. Alongside of us was moored a French packet from the Levant, and close under the fortifications opposite, and about two hundred yards off, the Oriental Company's steamer also from the Levant, and bound to England, was quietly at an anchor, waiting to receive our passengers. The harbour was as smooth as glass, and, in the deep shadow caused by the lofty ramparts, looked most delightfully cool; a grey-coated sentry was slowly pacing within a few yards of the stern, and a little further on, the cap of another was discernible above a low rocky point; and shortly, the door of the little guardhouse being opened, two or three drowsy-looking soldiers, in shirts and plaid trousers, lounged out and commenced their ablutions, which having completed they returned to the guardhouse-shortly afterwards emerging to relieve their great-coated comrades, in all the pride of the plumes, kilts, and trews, of the gallant Forty-second. Later in the day, some amusement was caused by a gentleman of the Com

pany's civil service, naively asking, "Were those soldiers the Malta Fencibles?"--a doubtful compliment, certainly, to the war-honoured Highlanders.

Acting upon the principle of "the early bird catching the worm," I decided upon finding my way to the lazzaretto, as soon as an opportunity offered, to secure good quarters, were a selection possible, and also to avoid the "row" beginning in the cabins below, as the whole hive was now in the full buzz of preparation for flight; red-eyed bristly gentlemen, as loosely girded as Mr. Smangle, of Pickwickian fame, were insanely tumbling against "overland trunks," and tripping over carpet-bags, and shouting loudly for the particular stewards allotted to their sleeping cabins, quite drowning the falsettos more gently piped from beneath coiffures of muslin, both becoming and the reverse, which timidly peeped around sundry doors ajar, the fair visages enshrouded in them exhibiting a most perplexed expression. The half-checked chirp for "stewardess," the anxiety to get the particular "canvass-covered trunk" from the hold, "No. 26," and their fluttering courage, while looking after their peculiar little interests, struggling with their bashful fears, at being seen in so unbecoming a costume, meeting, sorry I am to say, with little sympathy from the bustling "lords of the creation," -a husband in proper training may certainly be of some use at such a stirring time. On deck things were no better, the wash-deck pump was going clank, clank; a big blackmuzzled boatswain, or some such sea-monster, in enormous boots, was squirting from a canvass hose and copper pipe great jets of water over the sooty ship, while his troop of bare-footed sailors, wielding brooms and scrubbers, cleansed away the abominations springing from chimney-blacks and the slime of muddy hawsers.

Happy at my escape, I took my seat in a boat going to the lazzaretto, and was much amused at the anxiety shown by the old guardiano, perched in the bow, to display a little yellow flag from a staff about the size of a walking-stick. On landing at the Sanità I was introduced, by the young officer in charge of the boat, to the accommodating and portly Signor Garcin, to whom is intrusted the allotment of quarters; and following the worthy functionary up one of those flights of steps spoken of before, was shown my apartments, consisting of a large room in front, and looking up the harbour towards the Pietà,-this, with the aid of a folding screen, answered for both bed and sitting room; two small chambers behind, but having no communication with the

The

large apartment, completed the suite. floors of the rooms, being composed of soft stone, are easily cut into by ambitious travellers desirous of presenting themselves to the notice of the various twelve-day generations who may succeed them. Most of this sculpture is in the classic style of that school seen to so much advantage on the seats and trees of places of public resort in England. The apartments, although very good, were excessively dirty, having that morning been vacated by some rather uncleanly foreigners, evidences of their national foibles being very perceptible; however, S. Garcin, setting a couple of men to work, soon had them thoroughly cleansed, and, when I returned in the afternoon they were as fresh and tidy as possible -the arrangements with regard to the hire of furniture being also managed by him in a very satisfactory manner. I then walked to that part of the lazzaretto dedicated to the cuisine, to have an interview with the chef, who was a sleek gentleman, boasting of a very comely olive - complexioned countenance and dark roguish eyes; his well-oiled, curly locks were crowned by a most fashionable crape hat; and a well-made, loose, cut-away coat, of some thin black material, a silk waistcoat, black trowsers, and glossy boots of patent leather, adorned the outside man of this pink of traiteurs. The carte submitted to the traveller enables him to make his arrangements according to his finances or state of health, a fixed tariff being placed by the quarantine authorities upon everything supplied by the traiteur of Sanità; however, dinners or provisions can be furnished by any of the hotels of Valletta, but subjected to the great disadvantage of having to cross the harbour, and thereby being cooled before they reach the table. Each morning you write upon the traiteur's slate (slate being not susceptible) the order for your various meals, and which, when cooked, are placed upon a large wooden tray, and left at the foot of the steps leading to your quarters; from thence the tray is taken, and your table spread by the valet; the debris, with the soiled equipage, are again brought down, and placed at the bottom of the steps, whence they are removed by the traiteur's men, who, as well as their master, are in pratique, and returning to their homes in Valletta at sunset, after which no cooking is permitted.

I forgot to mention, that upon first coming on deck in the morning, I noticed a boat full of rather well-dressed young men, lying off a few yards from the vessel, and who, upon seeing my attention directed to them, sprang

up, and acted a kind of pantomime, each holding up to view some papers. I was told, on inquiry, that they were valets de place, showing their testimonials, with the hope of being hired by persons about to spend their quarantine in Malta. The moment we pushed off from the ship, they followed us to the Sanità offices, and all in a row presented themselves at the barrier of the parlatorio, each endeavouring to insinuate himself into our good graces. A tall gentleman, possessing much aplomb in his manner, named Roberto, was the one selected, and proved himself to be a good servant. I dispatched him to Valletta, prior to his losing his liberty, with a commission to Mr. Quintana, of Strada Stretta, for a supply of books from his well-stocked store; Mr. Q. is a great favourite, and his library is much frequented by the elite of the English residents.

Having thus made all my dispositions, I returned to the ship by breakfast time, and that mcal being finished, accompanied several of the passengers, who were bound to the parlatorio of the lazzaretto, to make purchases. Imagine an enormous flagged room on the ground floor, certainly more than a hundred feet long, broad and lofty in proportion, and having a barrier, breast high, running the whole length, and being about twelve feet from each side wall. The avenue up the right side of the building accommodated those in quarantine, while that on the left was filled by a shoal of shopkeepers, who displayed quantities of jewellery (that of Cretien of Strada Forni being the best), Maltese mittens, lace, kid gloves, and articles of warm clothing-the latter being often required by shivering Indians, when nearing the drizzly chops of the English channel. Guardianos occupied the intermediate broad space or aisle, and, armed with pairs of tongs, handed the articles to the purchasers. Some of the travellers were visited amid this hurly-burly by friends, who wished to have a glimpse of them even in this unsatisfactory way, and managed to keep up a conversation as privately as the wide intervening space, and the presence of so many others, would admit of. We all returned to the packet to an early dinner, after which, the party bound to England moved to the other vessel, which sailed that evening for Southampton, and I found myself installed in my now comfortable apartments at the lazzaretto, about five o'clock.

I spent my twelve days in one unvaried routine; turned out at daybreak, and eat an orange or some other fruit, then walked up

and down before the buildings for two or three hours, bathed, and went to breakfast by nine; after breakfast, amused myself by sketching the various objects which on the harbour presented themselves before my windows, until at last, the increasing heat and glare compelled me to close the jalousies; took up a book, and in the softened light, studied till three; dined, and, for an hour or so, indulged in some lighter reading, until the less powerful rays of the setting sun permitted me again to seek the little promenade before the lazzaretto, where, upon each projecting landing-place, an object in the fanciful costume permitted by the license of travel was generally seated, trying to dispel ennui by rod and line, while catching very diminutive flat-fish-his guardiano, with a bowl of moistened bread, diligently patting up bait, which required frequent renewal, it being continually nibbled away by persevering little tittlebats, which, too small to take the hook, in thousands voraciously twitched off the lure intended for the larger prey. It was quite as they say in dear Erin, regular "bite and sup," the angler generally varying the bite of a little fish by a sip from a tumbler of golden-coloured brandy and water, which relaxation, accompanied by a hookhah or chibouk, served to cherish a species of amiability towards the tittlebats, despite their profitless nibblings. Having bought a rod and line, I fished as well as my neighbours until dark, then took a little turn up and down, and retired to bed about ten.

On Sunday morning I witnessed a distant mass, intended for the benefit of the votaries of the Roman-catholic religion, who were spending quarantine, both in the lazzaretto, and on board the ships in the harbour. A bell began to tinkle, and the front of a species of small turret, or sentry box, projecting from one of the bastions of Valletta, opened, and with a spy-glass were distinguished an altar, images, and candles, with a white robed priest, moving and bending hither and thither as he performed the service. Simultaneously, with the first tinkle of the bell, all the guardianos, valets, and washerwomen, emerged from the lazzaretto, so as to be in sight of the chapel, and fell upon their knees; the sailors of the Maltese, Austrian, and Italian vessels doing the same on deck, and, with book and rosary, seemed to be as cognizant of the manœuvres in the little turret as if they had heard the voice of the good padre, he being certainly five hundred yards off, and at a great height above them on the opposite side of the harbour. This seemed to me but an unsatisfactory way of

getting the "benefit of clergy," and merely as a pis aller for the more substantial comforts of the church.

My guardiano was very particular in seeing all my luggage opened, and the contents put in the sun to air; even a gun, which was soldered up in a tin box, had to see daylight, as well as every other article, no matter how trifling. The evening before my quarantine expired, the doctor attached to the Sanità office inspected me, and pronounced me "all right," my bills at the same time were handed to me and discharged, and the next morning at sunrise my guardiano wished me "Good pratique, sar," and I was free. An

hour afterwards found me curiously gazing upon the queer looking people one sees in the streets of Valletta, from a window of Mrs. Dunsford's hotel, in Strada Reale. My expenses in the lazzaretto were for the guardiano 17. 28.; hire of furniture, about 27.; and wages of servant, with the waiter's bill, about 67.; thus nine pounds, together with twelve days, were immolated to the Moloch of Quarantine, an abuse which, having teased the travelling world in the East for the last three hundred and sixty-five years, should no longer be permitted to remain as a blot upon the institutions of any nation pretending to be removed even one step beyond barbarism.

I.

ABOUT three miles from a great city of modern times the ground rises gradually, until you come to a shaded lane, each side of which is bounded by tall fir-trees, with here and there a sturdy oak. The hedges are full of wild roses, that are tangled together, and when a shower has fallen upon them, the bright rain-drops hang pendant from their thorns, or glisten upon their delicate leaves, as we sometimes see the maiden's tear, when it seems as though it would cool the first blush of love stealing over her virgin cheek.

But why talk of love? for love is joy; and there was one in that shaded lane who hated love, and life, and joy,-who could see no beauty in wild roses, and who could learn nothing from the rain-drops on their leaves.

If you had been in the lane, or behind the trees, you could have heard Sir Aubrey talking aloud, for he was in that mood in which men do not care whether the impatience and discontent of their minds be seen or not.

"Fir-trees!" said he, as he strode along, "fir-trees flourish best in cold and inhospitable climes; they did right in planting them here near this cemetery, where one's very heart is frozen with the monuments of death around. And oaks, too! it seems as though they would mock the short lives of men; for these oaks shall be green and gay, and sing in the summer's winds, and defy the winter's storms, long after those who planted them have gone and rotted in the ground, and have been forgotten, even by the unthankful

wretches who lived upon them while they were alive, and have inherited all that they had when they were dead. And here are wild roses, too! dog-roses! who planted these? what good are they? well, perhaps they are as good as the rest; it might be that God himself planted them, but the rain has scattered their leaves, and they are full of thorns; they are all of a piece-and firs, and oaks, and roses, and my miserable self, are cursed all alike."

II.

An hour before Sir Aubrey walked down the lane, a young maiden had been rolled through it in a chair, in which she reclined, propped up with pillows on either side. She was of noble blood, for there was a coronet on the tiny panels of the chair, and the servant that drew it wore the livery of an earl; but you could have seen no signs of rank on the dress of the pale girl, who seemed as though rank and wealth would soon have no concern with her.

66

'Look, Aileen," said she to her nurse, "how green these fir-trees are! I suppose they were planted here to teach us that some things can survive the winter's storms, and be beautiful when all seems dead around. And there is an oak! perhaps some good man put it there, to teach whoever passes by, that what has a deep root shall outlive the wild blasting winds, and last when age has worn out every thing beside. But stoop down, Aileen, for I cannot speak very loud. There is the rosethe wild rose-God's own flower, and it has