LADIES' GILET OR WAISTCOAT.

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THE LONDON AND PARIS

LADIES' MAGAZINE OF FASHION,

POLITE LITERATURE, ET C.

Á RHYME FOR THE CLOSE OF THE
GREAT EXHIBITION.

GLORY to the God of heaven!
Peace on earth; tow'rds men goodwill!
Now shall honours due be given
To the best of human skill.
Always will we deal with others
As we would they dealt with us;
And rejoice, as men and brothers,

To befriend each other thus.

Nobly hast thou fruited, Labour !
Brightly hast thou flowered, Art!
Well has England hail'd as neighbour,
Every nation to her heart!
Yes; for all on earth are brothers,
High and low, and far and near;
And the more we see of others,

All the more we hold them dear!

Narrow liking and disliking

Prejudice hath died away;
Hand in hand together striking,

Man with man is link'd to-day;
While we feel that all are brothers,
Children dear of one above;
And the more we know of others,
All the more we live in love!

For it is a glorious teaching,
Albert, thou hast taught mankind!
Greatly to perfection reaching,
And enlarging heart and mind;
Stirring us and stirring others,
Thus to do the best we can ;
And, with all the zeal of brothers,
Help the Family of Man!

God be thank'd! that thus united,
All the world for once has been;
Crowding, welcome and delighted,

Round the throne of England's queen!
God be thank'd! that we and others,
England with the world around;
Thus have sought to love as brothers,
And the good we sought have found!
MARTIN F. TUPPER.

FROM

OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.
BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS,
October, 29, 1851.

CHERE AMIE,
OTHING can be richer or handsomer than the
plendid materials at this moment displayed for
There is also so much variety in silks that
becomes difficult to make a selection; the reps
res of any colour, with flowers en relief of velvet;
lampas; the Pompadour, in stripes, resembling
ain and figured ribbons; the Pompadour pekin, in
stripes, &c. &c. For morning wear, we
the bogin de soie broché, velours frisé, the

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NOVEMBER, MDCCCLI.

Velvet will be very generally used this winter in
all toillettes for the warm and ample manteaux
Français, Talmas, Trabees, Chambords, which will
be all the rage.
The dresses, redingotes, trimmed
with lace and gimp, sometimes mixed with small
bugles will often be made of velvet: it will be used
also on cloth for ladies' dresses. High close dresses
are becoming more numerous. Some amazon dresses
of popeline are ornamented by a double band en
pièce. The form of sleeves being modified as much
by fashion as by season: a new style of under-sleeve
is being introduced, closer than its predecessors,
but not less pretty.

One of the first matters of inquiry is the make
of the skirts and bodies of dresses. There are two
distinct forms, the Louis XIII. and Louis XV.,
that is, the Moyen age and the Pompadour. The
robes Louis XIII. have the corsage veste with bas-
quines either rounded, hollowed out, waved, or
vandyked: fancy prevails a little over history. The
corsage veste Louis XIII. is never attached to the
skirt the gracefulness of the toilette requires it
separate. Sometimes they are high, buttoning the
whole length as a corsage amazon, but more fre-
quently they are very open in front, showing the
embroidered waistcoat. In the robes Pompadour
the corsage resembles the paintings of Watteau,
with their noeuds, like butterflies, and ruches of
ribbon and lace.

dress, and richly ornamented with similar embroidery, the front closing with jet, chased gold, or opal buttons. For petites toilettes, for home wear, some dresses have been made with double skirts of black taffetas, iron or dark violet; at the bottom of each skirt two rows of black velvet, the lower one about two fingers wide, the upper one half that width, or with eight rows of narrow velvet. The corsage with basques, trimmed with velvet, and open in front; demi-pagoda sleeves, scarcely passing the elbow, showing the richness of the embroidered sleeves.

The in-door dress, called by the various names of coins de feu, casawecks, casaques, vestes, &c., will be much in vogue this winter. We can hardly give up this elegant and comfortable appendage of dress. They will be mostly of velvet, embroidered, or with gimp, fringes, and jet ornaments. Black lace will also have its place; and, it is said, that with this trimming a small pelerine, all of lace, forming capuchon, will be added.

A very pretty novelty consists of the little pelerines, with lace hoods. The form is round as a large pelerine, forming flutes behind and enriched in front by etales of velvet embroidered in black bugles en brandenbourg, trimmed all round by a wide ribbon, with lace hood. They are made of royal satin or velvet, in every colour, for carriage wear; but evening ones of pale satin or popeline will be very pretty. Large long shawls of cloth are made with rich borders of galons. They are not made of a simple square of cloth, but cut and formed to resemble one; the little point forming revers in front.

Not only the corsage vestes, with basquines, but the Louis XIII. collar, is also spoken of as likely to replace the little lace collars. They are flat and rather large, exposing the throat, and have sharp points; but they will not answer with the waistcoat, but suit well with the bodies that are high and Scarf mantilles of velvet will be much worn, have basquines. It is affirmed that ball and even-rounded behind, and falling square in front. They ing dresses will be worn this season with trains. will be trimmed by a double row of very deep black Nothing as yet indicates any change in the make lace. Another lace of the same dimensions, encirof dresses. Those which have appeared bearing cling the little collar, forming châle, and fixed at the impress of winter were composed of moire the waist by a gimp ornament or noeud of satin skirts, ornamented at the bottom by three wide ribbon. bands of velvet of the same colour as the dress, terminating at the knee; the corsage with basques of velvet of the same colour, encircled by several rows of narrow lace placed above each other, and fulled so as to form ruche. One of these toilettes, all of black, was accompanied by a little waistcoat of black moire, open en cœur, and edged by a light embroidery of bugles. Some dresses of cachemire cloth are ornamented by embroidery of floss silk or rich designs executed in velvet as narrow as braid. Generally they are redingotes, which button, with plain body and pardessus of the same; the bottom of the skirts very full, with embroidery descending the sides ending where the jackets terminate, which they encircle; the corsage with basques, encircled by the same embroidery, showing the little fancy gilet.

For young ladies, simple and pretty dresses are made of merinos, cachemire of gray, with two or three flounces festonnés, almost covered by embroidery, which is done in braid mixed with a flower here and there of floss silk. These dresses, made low and plain, may be worn with a cannezou of embroidered cambric, or of black tulle, embroidered in silk. For bad weather the cannezous may be

There is a decided leaning towards the close manteaux; and, as ladies' cloth is so much in favour, we may recommend the Sheridan, a manteau of black cloth, very wide in some respects, like the Talma, but closing tight up to the throat as a paletot by a single row of five buttons; the sleeves large; a very wide fancy galon is placed a little from the edge all round, and a small collar turning back completes this elegant manteau. Others, with or without flat hoods, are ornamented by cambray lace.

The mantelet seems quite to have replaced the paletot with sleeves. The Sesostris, the Olga, and the Henry III. are among the newest.

The manteaux, preparing for winter wear, are of cloth, velvet; some very pretty for demi-toilette, of drap cachemire, in all shades of gray beaver, pain brulé, are lined with taffetas of deep blue, violet, or ponceau. They have a collar, and are ornamented by embroidery, galons, or fringes, trimming them round in every part. It is in the accessories or trimmings that they acquire elegance, for the simplicity of the cloth is relieved by the deep and rich embroideries of silk and cord, accompanied by twisted fringes, which cause the folds to

manteaux, enriched by the splended, trimmings of edged all round by narrow fringed ribbons, which
lace and velvet.
composed the crown of the bonnet; the interior was
made of similar ribbon.

The forms of some of the new manteaux induce
us to think the fashion of tight-fitting ones for It appears that for morning negligé, this season,
walking is almost at an end. Some new ones, many bonnets of beaver, both black, gray, and
termed Henri IV., Talbot, and Andalouse are very white, will be worn, with feather to match, or with
full at the bottom, but are small at the shoulders. noeuds of ribbon-velvet expressly made the colour
The most elegant have a large piece on the shoulders, of the beavers; they are very wide, with the ends
forming point before and behind, and generally fringed and coques confined by long slides of velvet,
bordered with soutache. The richest are embroi-jet, or even gold. For young persons white beaver
dered in floss silk, in patterns designed expressly will be preferred, being prettier and more youthful.
for them.
Caps are made very short, but this year lappets
are very generally worn; one of the prettiest we
have remarked had a small crown of lace placed on
a mass of dark blue and pink leserons, which formed
bunches drooping almost to the shoulder; below
the flowers were fixed very handsome lappets of
lace, matching the crown. Another cap, all of
tulle, had two wide lappets of tulle, almost forming
veil.

The forms both of manteaux, mantelets pardessus, in fine all winter toilettes, have never been more varied than at present, with the large floating forms, recalling the burnous; other very elegant ones, and richly ornamented of the Louis XV. style, mark the waist, and are ornamented in a thousand ways in all the fashionable varieties. To give an idea of some of these manteaux, of which the names are so various, we cannot exactly cite them. We will remark those of cloth, greatly resembling the Talma of last year. They have not the great fulness of the burnous, but the numerous folds are arranged so as to form the sleeve, and are much admired by ladies who prefer fashion a little modified, at the same time preserving their novelty, elegance, and comfort.

Some of these are with hoods, forming pelerine, when they fall on the shoulders, and are trimmed with ruches of lace ribbon on guipure fringe, when they are of velvet. To trim them, very wide ribbon of moire, of the same colour as the velvet, is placed round on one or two rows, and forms a simple and neat trimming. It is for this style that cloth is used, as well as several others, for cloth will be very much worn this winter. Those chinés or melées, encircled with several rows of velvet of the same colour, having a contrasting colour, are very pretty. Others, of plain colours, have several rows of galons satine fixed at each side by a row of spots or small leaves embroidered in silk. This kind of ornament also encircles the large châles pelerines of cloth, which by their shape give the waist and form a negligé as simple as in good taste.

The little mantelets catalans, of black or maroon cloth, have a pelerine which falls on the arm as a hanging sleeve. They are trimmed all round by fifteen or eighteen rows of narrow galons, or a small gimp plat without fringe or trimming. This is very elegant in black velvet, ornamented by embroidery in bugles and silk, and deep lace, or long fringe of bugles. The manteaux worn over evening dresses are mostly with lace hoods, or hoods trimmed with lace.

:

The form of bonnets continues open; the crowns a little straighter, not falling back on the throat, which, unless sanctioned by fashion, would have been thought very ugly the mixture of velvet and bugles is charming. A bonnet of black velvet, the front of which is composed of bands of velvet and insertions of bugles alternately, was ornamented at the side by a bugle-flower, with long foliage of vel. vet. Bonnets of black tulle, embroidered in bugles, are elegantly ornamented by roses of velvet, intermixed with bugles drooping as blades of grass, and bunches of roses inside. Bonnets of satin and velvet mixed are very fashionable; sometimes the crown is almost covered with satin, crossed by or. naments of velvet, whilst the front is of velvet; the bavolets curl up, leaving the neck clear.

A very pretty bonnet of violet velvet was ornamented by black lace, mixed here and there with bugles; it was placed across the crown, and appeared to be fixed on one side only by a noeud of velvet in bands of different widths, two long ends tying a quantity of coques; inside were heartseases of velvet with yellow centre and coques of Terry velvet, the colour of the centres. A capote for a young lady was made of narrow fringed ribbons; they were placed very close together, following the contour of the bonnet; this capote had a noeud on the left side, and was trimmed with a wide ribbon,

Coiffure of tulle, trimmed with a vandyked tulle,
edged by a ruche.

Capote à bouillons of crape, with flowers.
Coiffure of lace, with flowers.

Capote of taffetas of an open form, with violets
inside.

Dinner cap of lace, trimmed with narrow ribbon.

LARGE PLATE.

FULL LENGTHS.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas pekiné, with open body and sleeves Pomponette, with under-ones ballonnées of embroidered muslin; pardessus mantelet of the scarf form, richly ornamented with black lace. Capote with full crown of green satin, with ruches and feather to match.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire d'automne, with caraco body and waistcoat of white jean; a little ruche à la vieille of narrow ribbon ornaments the caraco; sleeves à la Brunoit, and under-ones in

rows of lace. Capote of pink satin, ornamented with feathers.

Walking Dress.-Robe of damas; paletot Mol. daus of lady's cloth or cachemire, embroidered in soutache, and trimmed with a very deep fringe. Capote of taffetas and black lace.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of pearl gray satin; the corsage is high and open to give passage to a frill of lace; the front of the body and skirt are or namented by numerous rows of very narrow velvet. Capote of violet satin in bouillons, with black lace edge and feather at the side.

Walking Dress.-Robe of gros d'Athènes of laurel green, with corsage Raphael; manteau cardinal, with pelerine of fawn-coloured cachemire, trimmed with bands of violet velvet. Bonnet of terry velvet, with nœud of violet and satin.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire antique; the corsage is very open, and edged by two rows of scolloped ribbon put on plain, and continued round the little jacket; shawl of French cachemire. Bonnet of white satin, with tulle ruches and feathers.

Walking Dress.-Robe of iron gray gros grain, with four flounces; corsage Louis XV. ornamented with gray ribbon and black lace; shawl mantelet of velvet, embroidered à la mauresque, and trimmed with two rows of fringe, giving the effect of a double shawl. Bonnet of ruby velvet, with soft crown.

Walking Dress.-Robe redingote of striped silk; shawl mantelet of cachemire, embroidered in sou tache. Capote of pink satin, with cock's feather.

HALF FIGURES.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, and manteau of gray cachemire of the shawl form, with pelerine forming revers edged with black lace and galons. Bonnet of green velours épinglé, with feathers and cerise ribbon inside.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of gros d'automne; the corsage is open, forming deep vandykes; the bottom of the sleeve to match. Capote of paille satin, with flowers.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of pink popeline; the corsage is open, with revers edged by a frill of ribbon. Coiffure of lace and flowers.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire, with paletot to match, meeting at the waist with buttons; the sleeves are long, with cuffs; the whole braided in a scroll. Capote composed of biais of satin and terry velvet.

Walking Dress.-Robe redingote of moire, with full body and pagoda sleeves, edged by a ruche. Bonnet of satin and ribbon, with feathers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of moire, with open body; mantelet of glace silk, trimmed with plissés à la vieille and black lace. Bonnet of terry straw, with open edge.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas; the skirt with flounces; corsage caraço, forming double point at the waist, trimmed all round with a plissé of ribbon. and meeting at the waist with buttons. Capote of tulle over satin, with rosaces of ribbon.

Evening Dress.- Robe of pink taffetas, with flounces, and the centre of the low body ornamented by rows of frills in the stomacher form. Coiffure of hair in bandeaux, with flowers.