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THE LONDON AND PARIS

LADIES' MAGAZINE OF FASHION,

POLITE LITERATURE,

BERNARD; OR, A STORY FOR HUNTERS.

AT which I am about to relate is neither a rel, nor a romance, nor a drama; it is simply emembrance of my youth-one of those ocrences that happen every day.

was born in the midst of a beautiful forest, t abounded with game. My father, an ext huntsman, placed a fowling-piece in my ids when I was a mere child. At twelve rs of age I was an excellent poacher. fa rabbit was so unlucky as to venture into plain within twenty paces around me, it s a perfectly dead rabbit.

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This is the way then you spoil the boy," said my mother, who at this moment appeared upon the threshold of the door. "Instead of helping me to cure him of this unhappy passion for the chase, which leads to so many accidents, you do everything to increase his taste for it. Listen, I will trust him with you only upon condition that he shall not quit your side."

f, by chance, it was a hare, I need not say t it was exactly the same thing. One day, tag came from the forest, and I say it in a isper-it was, by my life, the same with the g, as if it had been a rabbit or a hare. These trophies of my skill served me to ke presents to some brave fellows among friends, who, on their part, that these pre-" ts might be renewed, kept me in powder ball.

We will add, besides, that almost all the gers of the forest had hunted with my er, and preserved a vivid remembrance of liberality. Some of them were retired liers, who had served under him, and for m he had, by his influence, obtained posts angers. In fine, these brave fellows, who ned to think that I promised to be, one day, enerous as the General, (it was thus they ays named my father) had conceived a great adship for me.

mong the number of these rangers, there one called Bernard, and, as he lived on road to Soissons, a league and a half from ers-Cotterets, in a small house which M. Violaine, the superintendent, had erected his predecessor, they called him Bernard of New House.

t the time to which I refer, that is to say, 818 or 1819, he was a handsome fellow of ut thirty-two years of age, with a frank and countenance, auburn hair, blue eyes and e whiskers, which admirably set off his al countenance; for the rest, he was perly well proportioned, and endowed with a culean strength which was noted for ten gues around.

One Friday evening, as I was busied before door of our house, in giving supper to two vks, which I was rearing, and which I was it upon training to fly at larks, M. de Vioie passed by.

"Well, my lad," he said, "have you worked d this week?"

'I have been the second in the class."

"Be tranquil; I will keep him near me." "Upon this condition, then, I consent," said my poor mother, who could refuse me nothing, but, remember, if any accident befall him, I should die of grief."

"Have no fear," said M. de Violaine, "the lad has the trade at his fingers' ends; so then it is agreed-do you hear, boy?—at six o'clock to-morrow morning."

"Thank you, cousin, thank you! I will not keep you waiting. Good bye!"

And I replaced my hawks upon their perch, to make preparations for the morrow's hunt. These preparations consisted in washing the barrel of my fowling piece, in oiling the lock, and in casting balls.

At six in the morning we started. All along the way our numbers were increased by the rangers, who were waiting for us on their respective grounds; at last, we reached a turn in the road, and perceived Bernard at a distance, with his hunting horn in his hand.

He blew a blast so joyous, and welcomed us with notes so clear and sonorous, that we felt sure that he had found game. When we reached the New House, we learned indeed, that Bernard had turned a magnificent tieran in the neighbourhood of the mountain of Dampleux, that is to say about a league distant. A tieran, in hunting phrase, is a boar which has reached one third of his age.

After having eaten a crust of bread, and drank a glass of white wine, we set out, not with the usual craques,—my readers will pardon me the word, it is consecrated among hunters-each one knew his neighbour too well, and was too well known by him, to try to impose upon him by any of those innocent falsehoods, but acknowledging, on the contrary, with perfect readiness, the address of the most skilful. Now, the most skilful were

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ger, who, some time before had blown off his left hand, and who shot all the better for that; and one named Mildet, who, with the ball, particularly, did surprising feats.

We need not say that the unskilful, on their side, were rallied without mercy.

Among the latter was an honest fellow, named Niguet, and surnamed, I do not know why, Bobino, who enjoyed the fame of being a man of the greatest caution, which was true, indeed, but who, with this reputation, combined that of being one of the worst shots of the party, which was also true.

When we reached the spot where the boar had couched, Bernard, by a sign, directed us to keep silence. From this moment not a whisper was heard. Bernard then imparted his plan to the superintendent, who gave us his orders in a low tone, and we took our places around the thicket which Bernard prepared to beat with the lyme hound that he held in a leash.

M. de Violaine kept the promise which he had given my mother; he placed me between himself and Mona, admonishing me to keep myself protected behind an oak; then, if I fired at the boar, and he turned upon me, to cling to a stout branch, and lift myself up by my hands, that the animal might pass beneath me. Every hunter of any experience knows that this is the manœuvre which is genearlly practised in such cases.

In the course of ten minutes every man was at his post, and the signal was at once given, In a moment, the baying of Bernard's dog, who had fallen upon the scent, resounded with a fulness and frequency which convinced us that he was approaching the animal. Suddenly, a crackling was heard in the trees of the thicket. I, for my part, saw something, but before I had raised my gun to my shoulder, this something had disappeared. Mona fired at hazard, but he shook his head as if to signify that he did not think he had hit the beast. Then, at a little distance, a second shot was heard, and then a third, which was at once followed by the cry of hallali, sent from the bottom of his lungs, by the well-known voice of Bobino.

All hastened up at the call, although upon recognizing the voice, each thought to himself that he was the dupe of some trick on the part of the humorous fellow.

But, to the great astonishment of all, when we reached the high road, we beheld Bobino, seated tranquilly upon the boar, with a stump of a pipe in his mouth, striking flint and steel to obtain a light.

At his shot the animal had rolled over like a

rabbit, and had not stirred from the spot where he had fallen.

The reader can divine what a concert of con

assuming his most modest air, and still seated was not a part of the animal's body left exposed
upon his trophy, contented himself with reply-to a ball.
ing between his puffs of smoke-
"Ah, ha! by St. Hubert, this is the way
we tumble over these little beasts, we lads of
Provence !"

And, in fact, there was no denying it; the tumble was perfect; the ball had entered behind the ear; Mona, Berthelin, or Mildet could not have done better.

Bernard came up the last.

"What the d-1 is the song, Bobino?" he cried, as far off as he could be heard; "they tell me that the boar threw himself upon your shot like a booby?"

"Whether he threw himself upon my shot, or my shot threw itself upon him," said the triumphant hunter, "it is not the less true that this poor Bobino will have grilled steaks all the winter, and none but those who can do the same shall be invited to eat them-always excepting Monsieur the superintendent," added Bobino, taking off his cap, "who will confer infinite pleasure and honour upon his humble servant, whenever he condescends to taste the cookery of mother Bobine."

It was thus that Niguet called his wife, seeing that, according to his idea, Bobine was naturally the feminine of Bobino.

"Thanks, Niguet, thanks," replied the superintendent, "there is no refusing you." "Pardieu, Bobino," said Bernard, "as you do not make shots like this every day, with the permission of M. de Violaine, I must decorate you."

"Decorate, my friend, decorate; there is more than one who has been decorated, who does not deserve it as much as I."

And Bobino continued to smoke, with the most comical gravity, while Bernard, drawing his hunting knife from his pocket, approached the posterior part of the animal, took it by the tail, which, with a single stroke, he severed from the body.

The boar uttered a low grunt.

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"Well, then! what is the matter, my pet? said Bobino, while Bernard fastened the animal's tail in the button-hole of his vanquisher. The boar uttered a second grunt, and moved one of his paws.

"Good!" said Bobino, "good! we are trying to revive you, my little fellow; well mordieu! let us do so then; let us see, it would be

droll!"

Bobino had scarcely uttered these words, when he rolled to a distance of ten paces, with his nose ploughing up the dust, and his pipe

broken between his teeth.

The boar, who had only been stunned, had risen, recalled to life by the operation which Bernard had performed upon him, and after having rid himself of his burden, stood erect, but staggering, upon his four paws.

"Ah, pardieu," said M. de Violaine, "let him alone awhile; it would be curious if he should recover."

During this while the boar had gradually reached the ditch, dragging with him the entire pack; then he plunged into the thicket, and disappeared, followed by Bobino, who had risen from the ground, and who, furious at the affront which he had received, seemed resolved upon having satisfaction.

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"Stop him! stop him!" cried Bernard, stop him by the tail, Bobino. Stop him! stop him!"

All present were convulsed with laughter.
Two shots were now heard.

Then, after a moment's interval, we saw Bobino return quite chop-fallen; he had missed him with both his shots, and the boar had taken to flight, pursued by all the dogs, whose cries were soon lost in the distance.

We hunted him during the whole day; he led us six leagues from the spot where we had roused him; we did not give up the chase until evening, but we never heard of him again, although Bernard informed not only the rangers of the forrest of Villers-Cotterets, but also those of the neighbouring forests, that if, by chance, any one killed a boar without a tail, and wished to have him complete, he would find this member at Bobino's buttonhole.

Still, although the hunt had, unquestionably, been more amusing than if it had been completely successful, it had in no wise fulfilled the object of the superintendent, for he had received orders to slay the boars, not to mutilate them.

Accordingly, when he separated from his rangers, the superintendent appointed a hunt for the following Thursday, giving directions at the same time that, in the interval, they should turn as many boars as possible.

Now, as Thursday was a holiday, I obtained permission from M. de Violaine to accompany him, not only to the next hunt, but to all those which took place on Thursdays and Saturdays.

The rendezvous for this day was appointed at the Regard-Saint-Hubert.

SONG FOR THE TIMES.

HOPE, brothers, hope! for the happier day
That peers through the distant gloom;
Think not the sorrows that round you play
For ever shall be your doom;
Lose not your faith in the good and the true-
In love, with its soothing strain;
But hope, brothers! hope that your homes so true
May echo with mirth again!
Morning may rise with clouds on his brow,
And wrath in his flashing eye-
May rend in its fury the old oak bough,
And scatter its leaves on high;
But his anger abates, as time unrolls
The day from his mighty coil;
Then hope, brothers, hope! let it fill your souls,
To lighten your weary toil!

Black Error may sit on his blood-stained throne,
His kingdom may reach from the furthest zone
And rule with a despot's hand-

To our own dear native land; But the day shall come when his broken shield Will rank 'mong the things that were; Then hope, brothers, hope! to despair ne'er yield'Tis noble to hope and to bear!

For

sure as the proud careering steed

And vies with the whirlwind's utmost speed,
Bounds o'er the iron plain,
And as sure as the wire, with electric tone,
As he drags on the joyous train-

Bears peace on its trembling wing,
So sure will bright Truth ascend the throne;
Then brothers, let's hope and sing!

MUSIC.

The Ormesby Polkas, composed, and dedicated to Miss CALDECOTT (of Ormesby House), by N. A. STAFFORD. London: H. Tolkien, King William Street, London Bridge; and W. Howlett, Norwich.

We have been much pleased with these polkss; they are not of the hackneyed character the daily numerous ones present to us. The introduction is very pleasing and graceful; and not the least fa ture in its recommendation is its originality.

M. de Violaine and myself arrived there The opening polka-La Belle—although perhaps with military punctuality; three animals had we might fancy to have heard a bar or two "some been turned-two tierans and an old boar. how" somewhere, yet is spiritedly worked up We need not say that not a ranger present and demand our praise: the forty-first bar wi to not only lose this failing, but claim our attention failed to inquire of Bobino respecting his boar. But with the exception of the tail, which he its arrangement, and it also has the strong recom exemplify this from the " fantastique" manner had the good sense to preserve at his button-mendation of fitting the dance. hole, Bobino had heard nothing from him.

On this day, as we have said, there were three boars to despatch; one upon Berthelin's grounds, one upon Bernard's, and one upon Mona's.

We commenced with the nearest; it was one of the tierans which had been turned by Berthelin; he had scarcely left the thicket, when he was slain by Mildet, who sent a ball through his heart.

We passed to the second, which, as we have said, was upon Bernard's ground. This was "Fire!" cried Bernard, looking about after not guite a league from the spot where the his fowling piece, which he had placed against first had been killed. Bernard, according to the slope of a ditch, in order that he might his custom, led us to the New House, to drink proceed more conveniently to the amputation a cup and eat a morsel; then we set out which he had just performed with such We took our posts round the thicket. M. dexterity; "fire; I know these fellows, they de Violaine, mindful of the promise which he are tough as a cat, and better two shots than

one, or he will escape us."

But it was already too late; the dogs, seeing the boar rise, bad rushed upon him; some held him by the ears, some by the thighs; all, in fine, covered him so completely, that there]

had given my mother, had placed me between himself and his private ranger, named François. Next to François stood Mona, next to Mona, know not who. This time we had to deal with the old boar.

I

(To be continued.)

The second has similar claims; and the triplet movement in the middle of the bar evinces the complete knowledge of the requisite music for polka dancing: the solo also in the left hand, and echoed in the right, is purely original, and extremely pleasing.

We congratulate our fair authoress on this her first public essay, and augur much from so happy 3 beginning.

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THE LONDON AND PARIS LADIES' MAGAZINE FOR FEBRUARY, 1851.

with flowers and noeuds of ribbon in the Pompa- round the skirt, so that the last row terminated on dour style are more fashionable than ever. Robes the right side at the bottom of the dress. This of tulle are entirely covered by small bouillonnées of method obviates the necessity of cutting the lace. talle separated by narrow blonds, fulled, and on In similar style, a black lace was arranged on a which are wreaths of flowers drooping from the taffetas of gold colour, confined at the waist and ceinture, or small bouquets of roses looping up bottom of the skirt by a bunch of heart's-ease. A here and there the blond and trimming, forming dress of green gros de Tours had for trimming festons. Amongst the taffetas or tulle dresses with eighteen rows of ribbon placed as flounces the double skirts the under skirt has four flounces, whole length of the skirt, and they were with shell pinked, or, if of tulle, edged with very narrow rib-edge, and in each shell was alternately a bunch of bon; the upper one terminates at the heading of white and purple lilac. A wreath to match was the first flounce, but it is raised on one or both worn on the head. sides by a chain of noeuds of ribbon, wreath of flowers, or chatelaine of foliage.

A dress of cobalt blue in moire, with high body, closed with five steel buttons, each with three A dress of white moire antique broché had a moveable girondoles, all the front of the dress was berthe of point d'Alençon round at the back, and ornamented of rows of black lace put so close togedescending in front to the point, the sleeves entirely ther as to fall on each other; the same is repeated covered by the berthe, the skirt very full and long, on the body, and a row of lace is placed at each inclining to a train, with several diamond orna-side the échelle from top to bottom of the dress; ments up the skirt. Another was of plain moire, sleeves of progressive width, ornamented by rows écru colour; the corsage tight, with small centre of lace, very broad at the bottom and gradually dipiece in rows of black lace and berthe to match; a minishing to the elbow. very deep flounce of black lace round the bottom, headed by a very small frill. Two other flounces terminated at the sides, only encircling the back of the dress, and were confined by large noeuds of turquoise colour in velours epinglé. Amidst all the richest toilettes of lace, flowers and expensive materials, appear some of the simplest robes of muslin, organdy, brodies, and festonnés. They are generally with double skirts or triple flounces, more or less ornamented by embroidery. The clear and light appearance of these materials may vie with the newest gauzes: trimmings formed of real flowers accompany these youthful toilettes.

In tulle dresses very elegant ones are with three flounces, each being covered by five small frills of pinked gauze ribbon, pinked, in shell pattern, each flounce raised at the side by a noeud of wide ribbon the same as on the flounce, the berthe rounded behind, descending en cœur in front, and covered by the narrow ribbons, fulled. It droops on the arm, meeting the trimming of the sleeve, which is raised in the middle by a noeud of ribbon and ends. Many dresses are raised at the side by moutants formed of wreaths of flowers, and foliage and ornaments of gimp, chains of noeuds in ribbon, beads, or feathers. This style, which may be termed chatelaine, is equally used on silk, tulle, or lace, and is one of the most general appendages of dress this season. A very elegant dress of pink tulle was made with three skirts, which formed three deep flounces, and each of the three skirts was edged by three rows of gauze ribbon, in shell pattern, alternately pink and white; they were put on full enough to give a little support to the skirts and produced a very light effect. The berthe, which descended to the ceinture, concealed the short small sleeves, was entirely covered by rows of this pink and white ribbon, and at each side of the two upper skirts were placed two bunches of roses, which had a charming effect in the midst of these waves of tulle and ribbon. This toillette was exceedingly ad

mired.

A dress of moire antique, of dark blue and black ground; broche in light blue, with chenille lace of deep blue; the corsage tight and high, closing with new and elegant agrafés à jour; tight sleeves, open above and under the lower part of the arm, with trimming of chenille lace, with a galon of chenille on the sleeves and round the opening only. A pretty dress was one of lilac taffetas, with two deep flounces simulating two skirts. At the edge of each flounce a light wreath was embroidered, with black foliage intermixed with small bugles, and a wide lace placed over these flounces reached to the embroidery: 7: one of these laces was raised on the left, the other on the right side by a sprig of black and lilac foliage intermixed with jet; berthe of black lace on the corsage. A dress of taffetas feuille de rose had the skirt covered by a superb British point lace, which was attached to the left side at the waist under a nœud of ribbon and turned spirally

Ribbons this season seem to vie with flowers in ornamenting ball dresses as well as coiffures; and, at the recent réunions, the toilettes formed a mélange of flowers and ribbon, and the bouquet of the corsage is now quite substituted by the chatelaines, to which the preference is decidedly given. It is composed of a chou of flowers, from which spring three drooping branches, which are often used to raise the skirts; the chatelaine is generally placed on the right side of the ceinture. The quantity of narrow blond or lace used on ball dresses, coiffures, or bonnets is incredible.

Children's frocks are made high or cut square, the body terminating with jackets hollowed out, or in vandykes pointed or rounded. For demi-toilettes the high bodies are preferred: but for dress nothing is prettier than the corsage Louis XV., without the centre piece, leaving the space for the papillons of lace or embroidery. Till eight years of age little girls wear trousers extending below the frock; at twelve years of age the skirt should be longer. The pardessus are of cachemire, thin cloth, or black velvet. The full and ample paletot is better adapted to children than manteaux. The paletots are made rather short, and hollowed out under the arms to give them more ease. bonnets for little girls are very short and open, made of white satin, Terry velvet, or beaver, the form à la bergère or Marie Stuart, ornamented by small curled feathers, or twisted, and inside choux or bouffes very full of ribbon, or velours épinglé.

The

The head dresses, this season, of flowers are very much intermixed with ribbon, and admit of endless variety. In this style we may quote the following: a wreath of the tea rose, with foliage of black velvet and noeuds of black velvet, with long ends. Another of ivy leaves, mixed with small marabouts, spotted with gold and noeuds of green and gold ribbon.

5

the forehead; a ribbon in a runner is placed between the head-piece and crown, terminating bebind by a noeud and long ends. The morning caps of Angleterre or Valenciennes are ornamented by coques of sarcenet ribbon forming touffes at each side, or masses of very narrow ribbon falling in corkscrews, or long rings or noeuds of velvet with long ends.

With respect to bonnets, it is remarked that the more heavy the material the wider and more hollow the folds are, and lessening by degrees form the crown which does not appear separated from the front. The open edges to the bonnets continue greatly in favour, particularly for velvet bonnets, the transparency of the lace or blond being so becoming to the countenance. This style is also pretty for satin; if of pink satin, the edge is pink gauze with frills of blond; if of blue satin, the border is blue; and the same with any colour of which the capote may be composed.

A capote of black velvet had a border or edge of black chantilly lace continued round the bavolet, and at each side roses intermixed with velvet.

The taste for pardessus of velvet, enriched by splendid gimps, is always predominant. For very cold weather paletot sacs have been worn loose, without seam. Manteaux of velvet have been trimmed with marten, ermine or sable, and muff to match. Some of these manteaux, of the Ionienne form, have fur round the top and down the fronts, but none round the bottom of the manteaux, but after forming a large rounded collar it descends as an étole widening towards the bottom. Fur is also placed round the pagoda sleeves with very pretty effect. Many small pardessus of scabious, brown, green, velvet, have the waist marked behind, the fronts hanging loose; pagoda sleeves without ornament, but showing with every movement the ermine lining. Very large and full Burnous, bearing the name Felicie, are made of black velvet, trimmed at the bottom by a deep rich fringe; it has also the Arabian hood, with long tassels of silk. As yet they have had no other trimming than the fringe, and a broad galon laid on plain all round.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. PLATE I.

FULL LENGTHS.

Evening Dress.-Robe of citron satin, ornamented en tablier by double revers of lace, and noeud in the centre. Pardessus of white taffetas, richly ornamented with lace and gimp; hood of white lace terminating in points, with tassels.

Evening Dress.-Robe of lilac broché silk; the corsage pointed, with shawl revers edged by a plissé of ribbon, and short sleeves to match; the skirt is also ornamented by a plissé placed a little lower than the waist. Coiffure of hair, with flowers and beads.

A novel style of coiffure is composed of dentelle d'or, in point de Venise, placed square on the head Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, ornamented in the Neapolitan style, the two sides raised by by soutache of the same colour. Paletot mantelet bunches of poppies and cornflowers, intermixed with of green velvet, with several rows of galons all gold wheat-ears, which droop on the throat. Ano-round placed at equal distances; the pelerine is ther, in the same style, was composed of a resille round, protecting the arms, and pockets are placed of pink chenille. A dress hat, of deep blue velvet, just below the arm. Bonnet of velours epinglé, had a very narrow brim, which turned up all round, covered by rows of lace of the same colour, and and no crown; it was encircled by a plat of velvet small plume of feathers. and gold falling on one side and terminating with a noeud of blue and gold, as a Swiss plat, and a drooping bunch of flowers on the other side, with gold foliage.

The new caps are quite out of the ordinary style; the bold contrasting colours, the richness of the ribbons, castillans of the most lively and varied tints, give much relief to the laces used. The little brabaconnes caps are all the rage-they recall the Flemish coiffures, from the pictures of Vandyck and Rembrandt; the form is small, much raised behind, leaving a passage for the knot of hair, rich laces fulled round a narrow head-piece, and flat on

Young Lady's Dress.-Robe of pekin, with high body. Châle mantelet of velvet, lined with white satin; muff of marten fur. Capote bouillonné of

white satin.

HALF FIGURES.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of green taffetas, with flounces edged by black velvet; the corsage is high, with three rows of velvet on each side, and noeuds of velvet in the centre; the half-long sleeves terminate by two frills, edged with velvet. Bonnet of pink Terry velvet and satin.

Evening Dress.-Robe of organdy, with double skirt. Coiffure of hair, with wreath of velvet

foliage intermixed with ribbon; large pelerine of ermine.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of lilac broche silk; the corsage is quite plain, a little open en cœur, and fastens by several small buttons; sleeves of the pagoda form, terminating with frills. Capote of lace, with ribbon edge and bunch of flowers. Ball Dress.-Robe of paille taffetas, ornamented by moutants of lace; the corsage is entirely covered by pelerine, formed of numerous rows of vandyked lace, headed by a plissé of ribbon, and the centre piece covered also by rows of lace. Coiffure of lace

and feathers.

MILLINERY.

Morning cap of muslin bouillonné, with frill of lace round the face, and noeuds of blue ribbon. Morning cap of embroidered muslin, and cerise ribbon.

Capote of pink satin, with trimmings of ribbon, and ruche edge.

Carriage Dress.-Robe redingote of moire ; mantelet of glacé silk trimmed with gimp. Capote of white silk in bouillons trimmed with ribbons festonné and flowers.

Evening Dress.-Robe of gold-coloured taffetas with flounces of white lace; the corsage is entirely covered by vandyked lace forming revers from the shoulders which cover the short sleeves, and rows of lace across the centre. Coiffure of hair and wreath of velvet foliage.

Riding Dress.-Habit of green cachemire meeting with small buttons on a band. Black beaver

hat with feather.

Evening Dress.-Robe of ruby velvet with flounce of black lace half the length of the skirt; and berthe of black lace entirely covering the short sleeve. Coiffure of hair, and ribbon striped in red and gold.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of velours epingle; the corsage is low and ornamented by noeuds of satin ribbon continued all down the middle of the skirt; Morning cap of muslin, richly embroidered. Morning cap, with small crown formed of inser-guimpe of embroidered muslin; and small collar pagoda sleeves edged with flutings of ribbon with tions, and frills of embroidered muslin, with loops edged with lace. Capote à coulisses with ruche at of ruby velvet. the edge.

LARGE PLATE. FULL LENGTHS.

Evening Dress.-Robe of pale green glacé taffetas; the corsage is pointed with double revers on the shoulders, and bouillons of tulle in the centre; the skirt has a narrow tablier edged by ruches and moutants on each side of tulle in bouillons. Coiffure of hair in ringlets with roses.

Little Boy's Dress.-Tunic of velvet with band and buckle; tight body buttoning at the side. Scotch cap of velvet with plaid band.

Walking Dress.-Redingote of iron gray taffetas ornamented down the body and skirt by revers cut out in leaves and embroidered in soutache. Capote of ruby velvet with small white feather.

Ball Dress.-Robe of white taffetas covered by pinked flounces, and short upper dress of coloured gauze, with corsage of the same pointed, and revers edged with lace. Coiffure of hair with lace lappets and feathers.

Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of violet popeline; the corsage ornamented by galons forming brandenbourgs; the sleeves rather long with under ones of muslin. Pardessus of dark velvet trimmed round with a rich galon. Capote of violet satin ornamented by narrow ribbon between the runners; richly embroidered trousers and black velvet boots.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of ruby silk; the corsage is high ornamented by bands of velvet edged with narrow fringe, it continues very low down, and forms deep points simulating a new kind of jacket, each point finished by narrow velvet and fringe; demi pagoda sleeves trimmed with velvet and fringe; under ones of muslin with wristband, and two frills of lace. Capote of white satin and blond.

Evening Dress.-Robe of richly brocaded silk in stripes; the corsage pointed with revers; sortie de bal of pearl gray satin trimmed with swansdown;

dress hat of black velvet with feather.

Child's Dress.-Frock of glacé taffetas with four flounces vandyked; paletot of velvet trimmed with swansdown; bonnet of blue velvet with feather laid

across.

Walking Dress.-Robe of cachemire with manteau the same, finished all round by a band of velvet. Capote formed of ruches of pink ribbon and black lace alternately; mancinis of chrysanthemums.

HALF FIGURES.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of lilac glacé silk; the skirt has three deep fringes headed by open network; the corsage is high and pointed with brandenbourgs up the centre; the sleeves are open and finished with fringe. Bonnet of velours epinglé with feathers.

Carriage Dress.-Redingote of violet velvet ornamented with ermine forming collar, and descending the front is continued a little wider round the bot

tom. Capote of Terry velvet, the crown

fauchon, trimmed with lace.

en

Dinner Dress.-Robe of iron gray glacé silk trimmed with flounces of black lace put in a small feston, in each of which is embroidered a heart's-ease; casaque of velvet with pagoda sleeves

trimmed all round with black lace headed with

gimp; guimpe formed of rows of lace. Coiffure of hair in bandeaux, with resille of chenille and fringe.

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HALF FIGURES.

of the same fastening up the back and forming Morning Dress.-Robe of popeline with casaque tight jacket with two rows of ruches all round,

with narrow lace and lappets. also encircling the arm. Coiffure of lace trimmed

flounces of black lace; pointed body with berthe Evening Dress.-Robe of brocard, with three of black lace; and sabots of lace on the short

sleeve. Wreath of flowers in the hair.

pinked flounces, each headed of a narrow frill, also Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas with three chale of pinked taffetas in narrow frills; and pinked and standing up high; body with pelerine noeuds of satin ribbon in the centre. Capote à coulisses of satin ornamented with lace, and ermine

mantelet.

skirt, the upper one ornamented en tablier by Ball Dress.-Robe of pink tulle with double bouillons of tulle crossed by narrow ribbon; the body is ornamented with similar bouillons forming Coiffure of hair in large curls, and wreath of pelerine, and on the centre piece and sleeves. foliage.

MILLINERY.

Morning cap formed of embroidered insertions and trimmed with a vandyked frill round the face. Coiffure of point lace and feathers. Bonnet of velours epinglé lined with white, and trimmed with a torsade of the same and fringed ends.

Cap of lace, and wreaths of ribbon puffings. Morning cap of embroidered muslin and lace.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE OF PATTERN. THE model given with this No. is a full dress body adapted for rich materials, such as moire antique, velvet brocard, and others of the same description. The short sleeves are with revers the same as the body, and should be trimmed with a ruche of ribbon matching the material. The top of the body is likewise finished with a ruche. Another ruche is put at the bottom of the body, forming the point, and one is placed about a quarter of a yard below on the skirt, giving the effect of the corsages à

Cap of tulle and lace, with rosace, and loops of basquines (jacket). citron ribbon.

Capote of ruby velvet, with ostrich feathers.
Cap formed entirely by rows of lace, with nœuds
of green ribbon at the side.

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PLATE IV.

FULL LENGTHS.

Ball Dress.-Robe of pearl-gray crape with double skirt, the upper one is open at the sides, and both are ornamented by flounces edged by lace; pointed body with berthe to match. Coiffure of hair in bandeaux crêpé, and wreath of fruit and vine leaves placed very backward on the head.

Child's Dress.-Frock of Valencia, with double skirt forming rounded tunic edged by three rows of black worsted lace, and caraco Watteau with jacket and short sleeves, the whole trimmed round with black lace; cannezous with long sleeves of muslin. White beaver hat, with ostrich feather laid across.

Ball Dress.-Robe of white tulle with double skirts, each terminated by two rows of blue velvet; three bouquets of convolvulus and velvet ribbon ornament one side à la Bayadere, diminishing in size as they rise; corsage with pelerine ornamented by bands of velvet; the front of the body à la Louis XV; wreath of flowers placed above the bandeaux of hair.

Evening Dress.-Robe of pink velours epinglé with corsage Louis XV. ruché with narrow velvet pinked; sortie de bal of pearl gray satin lined with pink plush, and flounce of black lace; and hood lined with pink.

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