is seen at a small distance: we were informed that alligators or crocodiles were to be found in it. We often met convoys of mules laden with merchandize. The bales are placed in a right line, and the mules, when unladen, are left to themselves, and sometimes stray as far as two leagues in quest of pasture. At every moment we saw tents, wherein merchandize was heaped up, guarded by one or two white men, The right in the soil begins now to be marked out in a particular manner. Vast extents of land, enclosed with artificial fences, in which herds of horses, oxen, and cows feed, sufficiently indicate a right of property. The country, nevertheless, is always uncultivated, and no trace of agriculture appears. The road is more beaten than formerly, which announces that the country begins to be more thickly inhabited than it was. We observed some Indiaus nearly naked, and loaded like beasts of burden. These Indians, called labourers, are very rare, because Indians in general are lazy. A traveller, while passing through these solitudes, and beholding the state of abandonment in which the virgin and fertile soil is left, cannot but feel indignation against the Kings of Spain. Thirty nations inhabited this part of America before the conquest by the Spaniards, all of which have been well nigh utterly destroyed by the Spanish rulers, for the empty pleasure of adding a new title to their style, and in order to call themselves "Kings of the Indies!" Catholic fanaticism was an accomplice in these devastations. Alexander VI. that monster decorated with the Tiara, drew a line on the map of the world, which was to form the limits assigned to the dominion of the Kings of Spain in America. With that documentary proof of property in their hands, the conquest was carried on with fire and sword, and twenty-six thousand square leagues of land (which is the superficial space of the republic of Guatemala) became a vast solitude. The foolish titles which the despots of Asia assume, such as, Emperors of the Moon, Brothers of the Sun, &c. did not cost humanity such torrents of blood, as were shed when the titles of "King of Jerusalem and of the Indies" were proclaimed to the world. Spain imposed taxes on her colonies, but never received any profit from the kingdom of Guatemala. The friars, soldiers, and persons employed in public capacities, consumed the whole amount of the tribute exacted from its miserable inhabitants.

"In these burning regions the sight of a hut is a real consolation; not only on account of the pleasure communicated by finding ourselves again in an inhabited place, but also because we are then in hopes to meet with a glass of water. We had been for many hours tormented with thirst, when fortunately we beheld some huts, towards which I anxiously guided my mule. An old Indian woman presented herself, and, at my request, ordered a young girl to bring me a draught of water. At the same time an old man advanced towards me, whose aspect, manner, and the extraordinary vivacity of his eyes, surprised and impressed me with respect. He first desired the girl to get the water from the coolest place, and then observed to her, that I was un blanco y caballero, a white man and a gentleman. I thanked him; and he replied, 'There is no cause, Sir; a Castilian considers it a duty to be courteous to strangers.' Saying this, with a joyful gravity, he gave me his hand, and asked me if I were returning to Europe. I answered in the affirmative; upon which he said, 'My bones will rest in these deserts!' words which were uttered by the old mau in the accent of unfeigned grief. I was greatly affected, and, thinking it a charity to avoid all further inquiries, having drunk the water, which at that moment was a high treat to me, I dropped his hand, which he held in mine, and spurred my mule into a gallop. What an enigma, said I to myself, is the love of country! Two Europeans of different nations in Europe are always strangers, and often enemies to each other; and in America they see and salute one another as countrymen! Long did I carry the venerable figure of that old man engraven on my memory. He was very eloquent. But the recollection of his country, instead of being a comfort to his heart, was like the apparition of a defunct mother which constantly presents itself tormentingly to the vision.

"At eight in the evening we reached San Pablo, an Indian village with a church. From San Antonio to San Pablo the distance is five leagues. There we reposed till eleven at night. Trusting to the moon, which was then risen, we set forward, and arrived at Zacapa at three in the morning, having journeyed three leagues.

"On the 6th I rested at Zacapa, by reason of a want of mules to pursue my journey. I there became acquainted with a young Frenchman, Monsieur Legette, who, having abandoned France for political opinions, had inhabited Guatemala during six months, where he had established a library.

"Zacapa is a large village, situated in a plain which extends as far as Simalapa, that is to say, eight leagues in length and four in breadth, gradually diminVOL. X. No. 60.-1825.

74.

ishing as you proceed. Zacapa reckons an amount of population of different castes not inferior to 6000 souls. It possesses a church, the architecture of which is somewhat of the Moorish kind, wherein two priests officiate. There are several houses in the village built of stone, but very low; and the commerce of the place is inconsiderable. Cocoa and coffee are extensively cultivated, but indigo and cochineal are rarely met with. The heat is excessive. We underwent great fatigue in search of mules to pursue our journey. They were extremely difficult to be got, because no fodder was to be procured for them on the road, by reason of the intense heat, and the sterile aridity of the soil, which invariably occurs whenever rain has not fallen for any length of time.

"At a short distance from Zacapa, on the road to Guatemala, the river called Zacapa is crossed, which, at about a league farther on, unites its waters with the river San Augustine. At the confluence of these two streams the river Motagua commences; and, after flowing nine leagues, as far as Gulani, it becomes navigable for large canoes down to the sea, a distance of forty leagues. The greater part of the indigo, cochineal, and all the other productions of the export, of which Guatemala stands in need, are transported by that river. The government intends to render it navigable to the confluence whence it begins, to which, several masters of canoes assured me, they had sailed the whole way. With a little outlay of money, it is thought that even the river San Augustine might be fitted for the purposes of navigation, as far as the town of the same name, a course of eight leagues. Should this ever be accomplished, the province of Chiquimula will derive infinite advantage from the circumstance. In that province is situated the celebrated mine of Alotepequé. The mine of San Pantaleone, which is now inundated, at one time yielded an immense quantity of metal. In the Museum of Madrid, two chests with specimens from that mine are preserved. Several masses of stone are there bound together by bandages of pure silver, which are easily recognized, being suspended in the air. On account of the immense treasure contained in this mine, the Spanish government was induced to grant several privileges to the family of Zea, in order to induce them to work it. It might be dried, by making a canal or drain at its base: a circumstance important to remark, inasmuch as it precludes the necessity of machinery, and consequently greatly diminishes the probable expenses attendant upon the enterprise. The mines of Santa Rosalio, Montenita, and San Antonio Abad, on the same vein, have yielded a great abundance of metal, and could again be put into activity at a small expense, as nothing more is wanting than to clear away the masses of earth which have fallen into some of the subterraneous galleries. The neighbouring Indians go to the mine, and collect silver, which they sell at four or five reals the ounce, to the Spaniards, who speculate in the commodity. Several families of the city of Chiquimula and the adjacent country, reap great profits from this commerce. The riches of the mine may be more easily conceived by stating that, in the report made to government by the Assayer of the Mint of Guatemala, it is proved that every quintal of ore yields seventeen marcs six ounces and three eighths of an ounce of silver.*

"The family of Zea became proprietors of this mine in 1800, and worked it with all the energy practicable from the fortune of private persons. It conveyed mineralogists and miners from Mexico; (400 leagues distant!) but the mistakes and bad faith of these people deprived the family of the profit which it had rationally expected to realize; and it was ruined by bad administration, while the artisaus employed became rich. The mine now belongs to an English company, which intends to commence operations next spring, with all the advantages which the progress made in the study of mineralogy and mechanics, added to a wise administration, are likely to ensure them.

"On the 9th of May, after having lost a day by reason of the difficulty of procuring the requisite number of mules, we put ourselves in motion for Simalapa. The road is flat and pleasant. We halted at a hut about half an hour's distance from Simalapa, exhausted by thirst, hunger, and intolerable heat. We acted very unwisely in attempting to travel within fifteen degrees of the line, in the middle of the day, and without shade. Near Zacapa we passed the river of the same name; and met the American Consul on his way to Omoa. Shortly after, we crossed two other small rivers. The distance from Zacapa to Simalapa is eight leagues.

*The marc is eight Castilian ounces; and the proportion between an English and Castilian ounce is as 100 to 104.

"On the 10th, at five in the morning, we again continued our journey. The road was beautiful, but the heat insupportable. We passed through Simalapa, which consists of some hundred small huts. On the road we perceived a great number of horses and cows dead from starvation, in consequence of the pastures being parched up for want of rain. Some pine-apples which we purchased from a party of Indians, invigorated us a little. At nine in the morning we reached Sobecas, where we found excellent lemons, of which the inhabitants take no account. Simalapa is four leagues from Sobecas.

"On the 11th, at half-past three in the morning, we left Guastatojas, where there is an aqueduct, and a large reservoir well stocked with fish. This town has a better appearance than Simmalapa; and exhibits several stone houses. At ten in the morning we rested at Incontro, a place containing only two houses. In our progress we frequently crossed torrents of water. The road proceeds invariably at the bottom of the valleys, and on the sides of the mountains, covered with shrubs. We now found ourselves skreened from the rays of the sun, and saw the earth uniformly clothed with green herbage, and veiled with the shade of the plants that it nourished, which gave us ideas of security, and made the road infinitely more pleasant. The temperature was also more mild. The distance from Sobecas to Incontro is six leagues. At three in the afternoon we left Incontro, and halted, after journeying a league, at a house called Roncadilla, there being no other houses till we reached Omoita.

"On the 12th we set off at seven in the morning, and proceeded along valleys shaded by noble trees, with woods on both sides of our path. At last, after having ascended a mountain, and passed over various hills in succession, we reached Montegrande, where we began to perceive some sugar-plantations and good houses. As we travelled onwards, the temperature became more and more moderate. It is worthy of remark that in this part, during some months of the year, the weather is cold, on which account the people are enabled to cultivate cochineal. We observed immense wens on the grown-up persons, and great bellies in the younger part of the population. Roncadilla is four leagues from Montegrande.

"At two in the afternoon we departed, and arrived at the estate of Father Caballeros at six in the evening. The road is excellent, and the sugar-plantations very frequent. On the plantation of Father Caballeros there was an aqueduct, wherein I bathed, and felt myself much the better for it; and I advise travellers to bathe as often as they can find an opportunity. From Montegrande to the estate of Father Caballeros is five leagues.

"On the 13th, we set out at five in the morning. The road is very narrow, and on the brink of a precipice, passing near a volcano, which has been extinguished for some time, whence run many rivulets of warm sulphureous water, the whole of which united disembogue themselves into a river which flows along the side of the volcano, and is called Aqua Caliente. At ten in the morning we reached the estate of San Jose, where the air is delightfully salubrious and cool. To arrive there we ascended a high mountain, from the summit of which we beheld a beautiful plain. The elevation above the sea must be very considerable, judging from the temperature, which may be compared to that of the advanced spring of Lombardy. We met, as we had frequently done before, a troop of Indians, of both sexes, loaded like beasts of burthen, walking to the sound of a drum, in order perhaps to alleviate the fatigues of the road. We traversed five leagues from the` estate of Father Caballeros till we reached San Jose. We took up our quarters for the night on the estate of San Diego, two leagues further on than San Jose.

"On the 14th, at halt-past five, we proceeded again, on a road at first delightful, but which gradually grows worse and worse. At about a league distance from Guatemala that city is discovered; which, with its houses entirely white, and its numerous and beautiful churches, presents a most agreeable coup d'œil. It is situated in a plain, wherein are seen many villages inhabited by Indians. Agriculture has not made great progress. That plain, which in Europe would present a luxuriant cultivation, in Guatemala exhibits but few traces of culture, and the natural fertility of the soil gives rise to an abundant vegetation, consisting, for the most part, of useless plants."

On the road from Omoa to Guatemala, as described by Doctor Lavagnino, we have seen that, at short intervals, villages and bands of Indians are met with. The tribes of Indians in the republic of Guatemala form more than half of the population; and therefore, before we

enter on a description of the city of Guatemala, the sittings of its federal congress, the plans of its government, or involve ourselves in political matters, we will give a succinct account of the Indians, which cannot fail to interest the philosopher and the philanthropist.

The Indians who people the republic of Guatemala have not a common origin. The descent of a great proportion of them may undoubtedly be traced from the Julteca Indians; who, after having conquered Mexico, extended their dominion even to the territory of the present Guatemalian republic. Nevertheless, before their conquests, that part of America was peopled by different nations; and the Jultecas, on entering the Mexican kingdom, found it occupied by the Chichimecas. Were all the Indians of this republic descended from the stock of the Jultecas, they would universally speak nearly the same dialect; on the contrary, as the natives of this country speak many and opposite languages, it is to be presumed that they are descended from divers nations. In the provinces of Quiché and Potonicapon, in a part of Quezaltenego, and in the town of Rabinal, the inhabitants make use of the languages of Quiché; that is to say, of the Jultecas. In Gueguetenago, in a part of Quegaltenago, and in the province of Soconusco, the Mam or Pocoman language is spoken; and in no kingdom of the New World are so many and so different dialects heard, as in the confines of Guatemala. The languages which are known and have a name, as those of Quiché, Mam, Pipil, Zoque, Chol, Lenca, Maga, &c. alone, amount to twenty-six. Many of these languages, however, have some analogy to each other; and, generally speaking, are very difficult to acquire, having a strong, harsh, guttural sound, and the signification being changed by only laying a greater or less stress on the words.*

Charles V. ordered the Dominican friars to instruct all the Indians in the Spanish language, merely to facilitate among them the introduction of the Catholic religion, since it could not have been supposed that the Castilian would ever become the organ of communication among the Indians themselves. But that wise enactment did not take effect in all parts; which is proved by some of the more uncultivated and savage Indians not understanding or speaking a word of Spanish.

Before the Spanish conquest the Indians were idolaters, and had their priests, who, on many occasions, acted as soothsayers. Subsequently, in 1524, when Don Pedro Alvarado had subdued for Spain the different kingdoms into which that vast part of America was divided, by means of the ministry of successive Spanish missionaries the different populations embraced the Catholic religion; and many and heavy were the difficulties and dangers that these missionaries had to surmount, in order to establish the gospel. Besides the ruggedness of the roads, thirst, famine, and bad health in unwholesome climates, they had often to encounter death, rendered hideous and appalling by torments invented by the barbarity and ferocity of their indocile neophytes. Nevertheless, these holy persons left nothing untried to attain their object. They lavished presents on the Indians; caressed them; and sometimes, by means of the converted part of their wild community, putting some part of the mysteries of religion into verse, caused these

* Compendium of the History of the City of Guatemala, written by Dr. Domingo Juarros, in the year 1818.

compositions to be sung; and thus attracted the curiosity of the Indians, who, allured by the singing, were anxious to know the details and issue of its history. Thus it was that they initiated them into the mysteries of the new worship.

Those Indians, who did not inhabit the great cities and fortresses, were not accustomed to live in towns, after our fashion. Their towns, before the conquest, were similar to some of those which exist in the present day (called Pajuyuco); in which the houses are so dispersed, and at such a distance from each other, that a town of 500 families not unfrequently occupies the space of a league. The missionaries, in order to baptize and instruct with more facility, collected these natives into villages, formed after the Spanish way; the church being erected in the centre, in front of which was a square with a chapter-house, jail, and other public buildings, with the houses distributed into square allotments, and rectilinear streets. Had the Spanish missionaries refrained from employing the bayonets of the soldiery, trusting their cause to the powers of persuasion, and had they not contaminated the minds of their converts with absurd superstitions and a farrago of ridiculous miracles, they would have rendered by their ministry an incalculable service to humanity.

Notwithstanding, however, the zeal of these missionaries, many Indians, a century after the conquest, were not converted to Christianity; and others, towards the year 1725, abjured that belief, and put to death three missionaries who chanced to be among them, accusing religion and the Spanish friars of having been instrumental in their slavery.* At present the greater proportion of these Indians profess the Catholic religion; the most part of them, however, without understanding it. They are credulous and superstitious. In the state of Honduras, on the banks of the river Ulua, exist a tribe of Indians, from fifteen to twenty thousand, called Sicaques, who are quiet and hospitable in their disposition. They welcome most affectionately every stranger; and if such persons show an inclination to become domiciliated among them, give them a hut, and provide them with agricultural utensils; and after a year, if they have conducted themselves well, incorporate them with their community, giving one of their daughters in marriage to each of them.

The foreigner who receives these marks of favour and hospitality should take especial care never to speak of the missionaries, whom they detest, as having uniformly been the chief agents in the work of their oppression. In the state of Honduras also, the Mosquito Indians are resident,-rough in their aspect, dirty, and nearly naked. These are implacable enemies to the Spaniards, who never could subdue them. They are inhospitable, and carry on an insignificant commerce with the English alone, selling to them the small quantity of silver and gold which they pick up in the rivers and mines. Some of them are seen in the streets of Wallis (an English settlement), who appear like the gipsies among us, and live apart from all the other inhabitants, feeding on uncleanliness and the offal which they find in the streets. Some will have them to be cannibals, but certain it is that they are still idolaters.

*The Court of Rome, as usual, canonized, as saints, these three missionaries, and made them perform miracles.