LETTERS FROM THE EAST.-NO. XVIII.

Damascus. .

We had resolved next to visit Damascus; but various obstacles were thrown in the way by the Governor, who considered the route too dangerous in consequence of the war between the two Pachas. Leaving the Holy City then, after a stay of about three weeks, we retraced the mountain path to Ramla, and after passing a night at the Catholic convent, arrived at Jaffa on the following morning. Signor Damiani once more received us hospitably, and, fortunately, we found a boat in the port about to sail for Acre the next morning. We accordingly embarked, and after being out all night, reached Acre the subsequent forenoon. This town is at present the strongest in Syria, being encompassed with a new wall. Being obliged to spend several days here to wait for an opportunity of going to Damascus, we had full opportunity of observing the effects of the war between the two chiefs. Three or four human heads were frequently brought into the town in the course of the day, cut off by the Pacha's troops from some of the enemy's stragglers, or, in default of them, from the poor peasants. This war was occasioned by mere private feuds, and unauthorized by the Porte. The young Pacha of Acre, who acted in a most rash and ungovernable way, opposed with success the stronger chief of Damascus by means of the mountain troops of Lebanon. He resolved on cutting a deep and wide trench all round the town, effecting a communication with the sea on each side; which was not impracticable, as the point on which it stood advanced considerably into the sea. But the trench, if executed could not avail in any way for the defence of the town, as it was more than a mile distant, and an attacking army would find it easy to pass it in the night. But the Pacha believed the place would be impregnable if the water flowed all round it; and to effect this object, he made the whole population go out and work from morning till evening. The soldiers were seen going about the streets, and compelling by blows the idlers they met, to go and dig at the trench. The town was nearly emptied; and on walking one day to the spot, we found all ranks of people, rich men, merchants, and domestics, mingled with the poorer classes, working up to their chins in the ditch, each with his wicker basket in his hand, which they filled with the earth, and then threw its contents above the bank. Some others were employed in digging, and overseers were set over the whole; rations of bread and water were served out at mid-day, and at sunset they were allowed to enter the city. We walked out a short distance, and stood beneath some palms to view their return. The better order of people came first, the poorer followed; amongst both were seen several noseless and earless people, who had been the objects of Djezzar's cruelty. The mountaineers who had been compelled to come and assist in the work, came last, singing their mountain songs with great cheerfulness. The gates were closed on them, till summoned to resume their task the next day. This prince, Selim, is the second in succession from Djezzar. The instances of the latter's cruelty are innumerable. He seemed to take a supreme delight in destroying; yet he has built the handsomest mosque and bathing-house in Syria. Beside the former are a quantity of fine palms, and a beautiful fountain. He was a rigid

Mussulman, and never failed to attend the mosque twice a day, and died in his bed at last in peace, at the age of eighty years. The history of his prime minister, the Jew, is tragical and interesting. This Israelite was an uncommonly clever man, and so well versed in all the affairs of the province, as to be invaluable to Djezzar, who cut off his nose and ears, however, for no reason on earth, but still retained him his prime minister. Suleiman, his successor, who governed only two years, could not do without the Jew's services; and on the present Pacha Selim's accession, he stood in as high confidence as ever. “In those days," said Anselac, the Jewish merchant, who was bewailing to us the fate of his friend, "no Turk dared to turn up his nose at a Jew in the streets of Acre, or discover the least insult in his manner; but the face of things was changed at last." The unfortunate Israelite had served Selim for some time with his usual integrity and talent, when his enemies, taking advantage of the young Pacha's ignorance and weakness, persuaded him that his minister, from his long intercourse with the Porte, and deep experience in intrigue, would probably be induced to maintain a secret correspondence, and detail his master's exactions. The next time the minister appeared, he was ordered to confine himself to his house, and not appear again at the palace till sent for. He obeyed, trembling and astonished, and remained in safety secluded amidst his family and friends. But the habit of ruling had taken too strong a hold on his mind; this quiet and inactive life pressed heavily on the old man's spirits, and he resolved to venture to go to court again. He came and prostrated himself before the Pacha, and humbly demanded to know what his offences were, and why he had been deprived of his office. Selim was very angry at seeing him again, and bade him instantly be gone. The advantage he had thus given his enemies over him, was not lost. A few evenings after he was at supper with his family, when one of his servants told him two messengers from the palace were below; he instantly knew their errand, and tranquilly retiring to another apartment, requested a short time to say his prayers, and was then strangled by the mutes, and his body thrown into the sea. "I was returning," said Anselac, "on the following evening from Sidon, and saw a body on the shore, partly out of the water; and on coming to the spot, found it was that of my friend and countryman, the minister, of whose cruel death I had not heard." This poor man removed soon after with his family to Beirout, under the Consul's protection, as he thought the Pacha might take it into his head to serve him in like manner, or strip him of his property. Djezzar was called the butcher, partly from a small axe he carried at his sash of an exquisite edge; and he sometimes amused himself by coming be hind a culprit, or an innocent person, (it mattered little which,) and, hitting him a blow with it on the back of the neck, putting an instant period to his cares. During one of Djezzar's journeys to guard over the deserts the caravan of Mecca, his nephew, Suleiman, found access to his seraglio: the chief, on his return, discovering the circumstance, drew his hanger, and stabbed several of his wives with his own hand. The Porte often attempted to take him off, but the various Capidgé Bashis sent for that purpose were none of them suffered to enter his presence, as the death-warrant of the Sultan, if exhibited in presence of the offender, is never resisted even by his own guards. He very civilly

received all their kind inquiries after his health, and the welfare of his province, and took care to have them taken off snugly by poison.Having at last procured an excellent guide, who undertook to conduct us by a circuitous route to Damascus, we quitted Acre. Travelling over the extensive plain, we came in the evening to Ebilené, a village delightfully situated on an eminence, on the sides of which a number of sheep were feeding. We took possession of a large and lofty apartment, the khan of the village, and taking a pipe and coffee, than which nothing is more refreshing after a journey, we waited patiently for our supper. After a good while, this made its appearance: as usual, two or three dishes of meat cut into pieces, with a rice pilau, and placed on a table about six inches high. It being night, a large fire was kindled in the middle of the khan, and many of the Syrian peasants entered. The scene soon became very gay; they had two or three instruments of music, a couple of fifes and a flute, and several of the young peasants danced in a circle, very gracefully, to their own native airs. The various groups seated beneath the pillars in the strong light of the fire, or behind in the shadow of the wall, in their light costumes, composed a striking scene; but the after-part of the night was doomed to be less agreeable to us. The villagers, one after the other, had dropped off, and, not being aware that we were now entering into the territory of that race who may be considered the lineal descendants of those who so tormented the Egyptians, we lay down calmly to rest. But to rest was utterly impossible, as we were instantly invaded and bitten in every part of the body. Change of position, or place, was useless, for the old floor seemed to have been their inheritance for ages. Demet ée, Mr. G's Greek servant, a man of much humour and some corpulence, was peculiarly exposed to these assaults, and after exhausting all his store of Greek oaths and anathemas, took refuge in the terrace; but above, or below, there was no escape. We quitted this village with no small pleasure, at an early hour, fatigued and unrefreshed, and after some time entered a long and rich valley, in which we halted for an hour at mid-day, and then pursued the way to Tiberias. At a few miles distance, is shewn the field where the disciples plucked the ears of corn and ate and within three miles of the town, turning out of the path for a short distance, on the left, we came to the Mount of Beatitudes, where Christ preached his sermon. It is a low and verdant hill, rising gradually on every side towards the summit, on which small masses of rock are scattered. It is admirably calculated for the purpose, as a multitude of people might stand on the gently sloping sides of the mount, even to the bottom, and hear distinctly every word of the speaker. The prospect of the lake beneath, of the mountains of Gilboa, and that of Bethulia to the north, is extremely beautiful. Proceeding towards Tiberias, we passed by a spot on the left, on a gentle declivity, where, tradition says, the five thousand were miraculously fed. The town of Tiberias is surrounded by a wall, but it is rather a wretched place within. No ancient remains of any interest are at present found here. A small and ancient church, to which a descent of several steps beneath the surface leads, is called St. Peter's. The only lodging-place for travellers is in the house of a Sheick, which is held in dread, on account of the myriads of fleas that inhabit it; from whom we were fortunate enough to escape. On the shore, at

some distance to the south of the town, are warm mineral baths, which are much used and esteemed. At the extremity of the north-eastern shore, some remains are said still to exist where Capernaum formerly stood. The inhabitants of the town are chiefly Jews, with some Turks. Having two letters of introduction from the Armenian convent at Jerusalem to a rich old Jew, we were fortunate enough to be admitted into his house. The apartments were handsomely furnished; the table was spread with various dishes of meat and wine at mid-day and in the evening, and we were served with breakfast in the European style. This old man was a merchant of Aleppo, where several of his sons now lived in opulence, and he had come in his old age-for he was now four score,--and built this house far from his native home, in order that he might die at the lake of Tiberias. The attachment of the Jews to the places of their ancient record and glory, is sometimes excessively strong. In walking along the shores, we met occasionally Jews from Poland, chiefly elderly men, who had come from their country to this spot, from no other motive but to spend their last years round the lake, Our kind host had a synagogue in his house, and a Rabbi to officiate, and service was duly attended twice a day by his wife, who was half his own age, and all his servants. On the night of our arrival, we walked on the terraced roof to enjoy the coolness of the air. It was moonlight, and the lake and its shores were as beautiful a scene as can be conceived. It brought to mind the night, though so different a one, when Christ walked on the surface of its waves to rescue his disciples. Yet Tiberias is a scene where Nature seems still to wear as sublime and lovely an aspect, as in the day when it drew the visitations and mercies of the Lord. No curse rests on its shores, as on those of the Dead Sea; but a hallowed calm and a majestic beauty that are irresistibly delightful. The length of the lake is about fourteen miles, and the breadth five. The fish it contains have a most delicious flavour, and are much the size and colour of a mullet. The boats used on it are in some seasons of the year much exposed from the sudden squalls of wind which issue from between the mountains. The water is perfectly sweet and clear. The Jordan is seen to enter it at its northern extremity, and its course is distinctly visible through the whole extent of the lake. The range of mountains forming its eastern shore, is very lofty; their steep and rocky sides are barren, with a sprinkling of trees on a few of the summits. The western shore, where the town stands, is lower, but its picturesque hills, divided by sweet valleys, are covered with a rich carpet of verdure, but almost destitute of trees. The ride to the southern end of the lake is very pleasant, where the Jordan flows out of it. An ancient bridge, some of the ruined and lofty arches of which stand in the river, adds much to the beauty of this scene. We bathed here in the Jordan, which issues out in a stream of about fifty feet wide, and flows down a rich and deserted valley, inclosed by bare and lofty mountains. The stream was here clear and shallow, and about fifty feet wide; but it soon became deep and rapid. Little is said in the Scripture, respecting the extensive valley of the Jordan between Tiberias and Jericho. It must have been thickly populated from its luxuriance, being watered throughout by the river. Yet, with all the charms of its situation, the air around the lake, during the summer, is close and sultry. Of all places in Pales

tine, however, a stranger would desire to fix his residence here; as a situation on any of the verdant hills around would avoid the often oppressive air on its banks. We now bade adieu to the hospitable old Jew, who told us he looked forward with delight to the future judgment that was to take place in the valley of Jehoshaphat, to be near which had been one cause of his coming here. It was to be only on his countrymen; all the rest of the world were to be excluded :—a very necessary measure, for how the Jews are all to squeeze into the narrow little valley is rather hard to conceive. A small Turkish camp of cavalry, intended to act against the Pacha of Acre, was pitched without the town, their various dresses, and fine chargers gave great animation to the scene. The afternoon was delightful, without being at all too warm; and we wound along the cliff on the western side of the lake with uncommon pleasure; for almost every step gave new attractions to the scenery. The mountains became loftier, and within a few miles of the northern end, drew back from the lake, leaving a rich plain of two or three miles broad between. Turning off here to the left, the light failed ere we could find a resting-place for the night.

Contesini, the guide from Acre, would have us stop in a low and damp spot, but a Turk who had requested to become one of our party, advanced up on an adjoining hill, protesting that there was a village somewhere in the neighbourhood. Not very long after, we heard his voice calling from some distance, and on following, found him planted in a small hamlet of three or four cottages; they looked so dirty, however, that we preferred sleeping on the roof to entering within. Having taken a frugal supper, it was vain to think of going to sleep, as from this elevated position we had a full view of the lake and its shores beneath, which were now lighted up by a cloudless moonlight. The next morning the wind blew extremely cold; but cold and night-dews are much less evils than the nightly tormentors, which, however, we never met with in Palestine in any place but Ebilené. We now entered on a wild and stony tract of country, till about mid-day we came to the mountain of Bethulia, and wound up it by a long and steep ascent; the upper part is covered with trees. On its summit is the modern town of Safet, in the midst of which rises a lofty rock, the top of which is occupied by the castle of the governor. The whole appearance of the place is the most outré and romantic imaginable. In walking or riding along several of the streets, you are obliged to pass over the roofs of the houses, which stand on ridges of the rock, and seem to strive which can climb highest. It is a position of immense strength, and might well defy the power of Holofernes and his army, even without the aid of the beautiful Judith :-it answers exactly to the description given in the Apocrypha. It being very hot, we seated ourselves beneath the shade of a large tree, in the middle of the scattered town, beside a fine fountain, to which the women of the place came for water, but none of them answered to the description of their heroic ancestor. It was a market-day, the defiles and terraced roofs of the place were thronged with people from the mountains and valleys; and our servants having procured some meat, we took our repast beneath the tree, in a primeval manner, by the fountain side, sheltered from the heat. The lake, that like a beautiful spectre haunts your course often and long,