of the hill between the two churches, used to be pointed out to strangers as the print of St. Asaph's horse-shoe, when he leaped with him from Onan-hassa, which is about two miles off. This, however, observes Mr. Grose, who relates the story, seems to have been a miracle performed rather by the horse than by the saint, to whom it is ascribed, unless the keeping of his seat at so great a leap may be deemed such. What was the occasion of this extraordinary leap we are not told; whether only to shew the agility of his horse, or to escape the assaults of the foul fiend, who, in those days, took unaccountable liberties even with saints *.

VALE OF CLWYD.

The tower of the cathedral commands a most extensive prospect of the vale of Clwyd, in every direction; and it is almost the only situation that I could find for seeing it to advantage. The river Clwyd, from which the vale takes its name, is a diminutive stream that meanders along its bottom, scarcely three yards over in the widest part. Its banks are low, and after sudden rains it is subject to the most dreadful overflowings, the torrent at these times frequently sweeping along with it even the very soil of the land it passes over. From this circumstance it is that much of the land near its banks is let at very low rents. This vale is perhaps the most extensive of any in the king

* Grose's Antiquities, vol. vii. p. 43.

dom, being near twenty-four miles in length, and about seven in width; containing the three considerable towns of St. Asaph, Denbigh, and Ruthin; and though it is impossible to exhibit a more beautiful scene of fertility, yet, from its great width and its want of water, I believe the painter will prefer to it many of the deep and picturesque glens of Caernarvonshire and Merionethshire.

53

CHAP. V.

EXCURSION FROM ST. ASAPH TO RHYDDLAN.

View of St. Asaph. - Rhyddlan. - Edward 1. Morfa Rhyddlan.-Rhyddlan Castle.-Friary -Port.-Diserth. -Diserth Castle.-Plants.-Siamber Wen-Anecdote of Sir Robert Pounderling.

FROM St. Asaph I wandered along the vale three miles, towards the village of Rhyddlan, or the Red Shore, so called from the colour of its site. The country all the way was interesting. At the distance of about a mile I looked back upon the little city I had left. Its single street occupied the slope of the hill, at the top of which stood the cathedral; and the intermingled trees and houses, with the turbulent river Elwy flowing at the bottom, under a majestic bridge of five arches, altogether formed an extremely beautiful scene.

RHYDDLAN

Lies in a flat, on the eastern bank of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the sea. This is here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to admit of small vessels riding up, as far as the bridge. Although Rhyddlan is now a very insignificant village, it was formerly a place of considerable magnitude and

importance; but no traces whatever of these are left except in the ruins of its castle *. Edward I. annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, in order to facilitate an intercourse betwixt the Welsh and English, and for the purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings our monarch exhibited strong features of policy, He had been early taught, that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated likewise the statute of Rhyddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed prince of Wales. This statute, which was passed in a parliament assembled here in the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward's conquest, against which it was in a great measure directed. His imposing upon them his son, who had, not long before, been born at Caernarvon, for a prince, is an instance of craft which we are surprised to observe in so great a monarch as Edward. He assembled the Welsh barons and chief men, and informed them, that in consequence of their long-expressed desire to have a prince, a native of their own country, he had at length determined to indulge them, in nominating one whose whole life had been hitherto irreproachable, and who could not even speak a word of English. Little

*Non procul a mari Rudlana in Tegenia, olim magnus urbs, nunc exiguus vicus situatur." Lhuyd Comment. Brit. 56..

did they think, when expressing their acclamations of joy and unbounded promises of obedience, that the prince he was about to invest, who was so immaculate, had scarcely been born twelve months, and was at least able to speak as much English as Welsh. The scheme in a great measure succeeded; and, aided by the strength he at that time had obtained in the country, and the additional forces that he brought into it from England, he totally subdued this warlike people.

MORFA RHYDDLAN.

Betwixt the village and the sea is a large marsh, called Morfa Rhyddlan, the Marsh of Rhyddlan, where, in the year 795, a dreadful battle was fought betwixt the Welsh people under their leader Caradoc, and the Saxon forces headed by Offa king of Mercia. The Welsh were routed, and their commander was slain. The Saxon prince, in the heat of his revenge, cruelly ordered all the men and children of the enemy that fell into his hands to be massacred, the women alone escaping his fury. This tragical event is supposed to have been recorded by a poem, written shortly afterwards, copies of which are now extant. The plaintive air called Morfa Rhyddlan, as we are told by some, had its origin about the same period; but, from its construction, infinitely too artificial for those dark ages, it is easy to discern that it must be attributed to a much more recent date.*

* See this air amongst the specimens of Welsh music.