stone, and at a little distance on the left of the road, two cromlechs were pointed out to me. They were near each other, and placed on barrows, or heaps of loose stones. These barrows or carnedds, as they are usually called, from the circumstance of the cromlechs being erected on them, are evidently of high antiquity. The mode of forming the carnedd in this country was somewhat singular. When it was considered as the honourable tomb of a warrior, every one that passed by threw on it an additional stone as a mark of respect; but when this heap became disgraced by shielding the body of the guilty, it was still the custom of every one that passed to fling his stone, but, in this case, it was done in token of detestation. The original intention of heaping stones over the dead, was doubtless to defend the bodies from being dug up, and devoured by the wolves, with which the wild and mountainous parts of Britain formerly abounded. It was a necessary precaution, to prevent the friends of the deceased from being shocked by the horrid sight of their carcases mangled by these rapacious animals.

1 passed Cors y Gedol, the ancient family seat of the Vaughans, but now the property of sir Thomas Mostyn, bart., and continuing my journey by Llanaber, soon afterwards ar rived at

7.

BARMOUTH,

This town is situated in one of the most unpleasant places that could have been chosen for

it, near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach*-Some of the houses are built among the sand at the bottom, and others, at different heights, up the side of a huge rock, which entirely shelters the place on the east. The situations of the latter are so singular, that it is really curious for a stranger to wind up along the narrow paths among the houses, where, on one side, he may, if he please, enter the door of a dwelling, or, on the other, look down the chimney of the neighbour in front. The inha→ bitants might almost cure their bacon in some parts of this town by the simple process of hanging it out of their windows. The houses at the foot of the rock are nearly choaked up with sand, which fills every passage, and is blown into every window that is for a moment left open. In rainy weather this sand, on the contrary, renders the place very dirty and unplea+ sant. The buildings are exceedingly irregular, and in most instances very bad. Notwithstanding all these disadvantages, Barmouth is frequented during the summer season by many gen. teel families from Wales, and the west of England, as a sea-bathing place. Its origin, as the resort of invalids, has been attributed to persons frequenting the banks of this part of the river for the sake of the scurvygrass, which grows there in great abundance.

The company must necessarily find it a most uncomfortable place, for the inn (the Corsygedol arms) is at times almost buried in sand, and no person can possibly walk many yards with

* From this river the town is sometimes called Aber Maw, The Conflux of the Maw. This has been shortened into 'Bermaw, and corrupted to Barmouth.

out having it over his shoes. Were it not for the civility and friendly attention of Mrs, Lewis the inn keeper, Barmouth would fail in its principal attraction. I was beyond measure surprized, on being introduced into the diningroom, to find, in this secluded corner of the kingdom, upwards of thirty persons, most of them of fortune and fashion. I found also, on inquiry, that this was by no means all the company at that time in the town; another large and good building, which Mrs. Lewis had in her own hands as a lodging-house, being also quite full. To be thus suddenly introduced, as it were, into the world, after my solitary rambles among the wilds of the country, was a very grateful incident; and I enjoyed the general cheerfulness and affability that prevailed, perhaps the more from its being entirely unexpected.

The lodging-houses in the town are many of them dirty and miserable places.-There are on the sands three bathing machines, but these are altogether appropriated to the use of the ladies, the gentlemen bathing on the open coast.-The amusements seem to consist principally in going out in parties on the water, and in promenading on the beach or the sands. The beach is one of the most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds amongst the mountains, forming many, and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side, some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily covered with the purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen to rise high above the other mountains, in the back ground. Had the town been built

here, scarcely half a mile from its present situation, instead of one of the most unpleasant, it might have been rendered one of the most delightful retirements in the kingdom.

Barmouth is the port of Merionethshire. Mr. Pennant, however, informs us, that prior to the year 1781, flannels to the value of 40,0001., and stockings to the value of 10,0001., had been exported from hence in the course of a year. The number of ships at present belonging to this port is about a hundred and the population of the place is estimated at fifteen hundred.

333

CHAP. XXVI.

BARMOUTH TO DOLGELLE.

The River Mawddach.-Beautiful Scenery.-Dolgelle. Whimsical Description of Dolgelle.-Fuller's Enigmatical Description.-Trade.-Inn.-Fortified in the Reign of Charles I.-Account of Places worth visiting in the Neigh bourhood of Dolgelle.

EXCURSION FROM DOLGELLE TO KEMMER ABBEY AND THE WATERFALLS.

Y Vanner, or Kemmer Abbey-Cataract at Dolmelynllyn.Distant Waterfall.-Cataract of the Mawddach-Cataract of the Cain.

I HAD already been highly gratified in my ramble along the beach for about a mile and a half from Barmouth; and, in my walk to Dolgelle, I retraced my steps with additional pleasure. The Mawddach, usually called Avon Vawr, The Great River, forms in this place a wide arm of the sea. It was now high water, and from the whole bed of the river being filled, the various scenes that presented themselves for some miles were truly picturesque. The