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Hale ended, sighing, “that they're all cover, and went on with lowered voice: shut up there'n that one kitchen. In the “There was one day, about a week after summer-time, on pleasant days, they move the accident, when they all thought Mattie Mattie into the parlour, or out in the door- couldn't live. Well, I say it's a pity she yard, and that makes it easier . . . but did. I said it right out to our minister winters there's the fires to be thought of; once, and he was shocked at me. Only he and there ain't a dime to spare up at the wasn't with me that morning when she first Fromes'."

came to ... and I say, if she'd ha' died, Mrs. Hale drew a deep breath, as though Ethan might ha' lived; and the way they her memory were eased of its long burden, are now, I don't see's there's much difand she had no more to say; but suddenly ference between the Fromes up at the farm an impulse of complete avowal seized her. and the Fromes down in the graveyard;

She took off her spectacles again, leaned 'cept that down there they're all quiet, and toward me across the bead-work table- the women have got to hold their tongues.”

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The Jungfernstieg wears an air of leisurely elegance and pleasure-seeking prosperity. – Page 446.

HAMBURG AND ITS HARBOR

By Ralph D. Paine

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DHE rise of Germany as a North Sea that the German people have

naval power of the foremost hammered out a maritime destiny for rank has been flamboyant themselves rather by stress of circumstances and startling. Her battle- than by natural inclination and environships, afloat and building, ment. They were compelled to turn sea

recently afflicted England ward because the land was overcrowded with acute nightmares and have even in- and they must find new markets for their fluenced the United States to share in the wares. As a result of this economic presruinous scramble for bigger dreadnoughts, sure, the chief seaport, Hamburg, was heavier guns, and more of them. With far marvellously quickened by the spirit of the less noise and alarm, however, the modern new nation with its slogan “Made-in-GerGermany has suffered a sea change of many,” and became the great gateway of another and more formidable kind. Her traffic in manufactured products outward armed fleet is as yet untried, its prestige is a bound and of raw materials brought home matter for the experts to calculate on paper, from the ends of the earth. In its tonnage but the merchant marine has challenged the of shipping and merchandise, Hamburg supremacy of British ships and sailors and has wrested second place from London, a is waging a pacific war for the commerce of fact to wonder at. the world, from the Baltic to Zanzibar, and It is to be regretted that so many Amerifrom China to Peru. The industrial em- cans hastily scan such statements as these, pire of the Fatherland, militant, intelligent, fight shy of the statistics usually accomand highly organized, has already demol- panying them, and contemplate Hamburg ished the ancient doctrine that Britannia merely as a port of entry and departure for rules the waves.

transatlantic steamers filled with persons So small is the strip of coast and so few bent on going somewhere else with all posthe harbors facing the cold, tempestuous sible despatch. True, the city has almost VOL. L.-41

445

no ruins and somewhat lacks the atmos- to tarry in Hamburg long enough to dephere of oderiferous dilapidation so ardently scry the Alster. There are great cities, no sought and gloated over by those pilgrims names need be mentioned, in which this who would get their money's worth during lovely sheet of water would have been rea summer abroad. The people are clean, garded as so much waste area to be filled in busy, and self-respecting, and they have by the dump-cart of the contractor, plotted made a beautiful metropolis of this capital and staked by the real estate operator, and of the Free State of Hamburg, and ancient blighted with brick and mortar by the Hansa town.

building speculator. In that dimly remote age when Charle- As one passes along the Jungfernstieg or magne wielded the mailed fist, a castle was the Alsterdamm, handsome thoroughfares built on a hill between the Elbe and a conflu- which border the smaller lake, it is not easy ent little river called the Alster as an outpost to realize that the clamorous, grimy busiof defence against the Slavs. Through the ness of a vast harbor is surging no more succeeding centuries the shipping sought than a few minutes' walk distant. The the deeper water of the Elbe and the Jungfernstieg wears an air of leisurely elroad to the sea, and, as elsewhere, the old egance and pleasure-seeking prosperity. town huddled close to the wharves and The restaurants are crowded, there is much warehouses. In times more modern the excellent music and hearty eating and city spread around the pleasant, wooded drinking, a great display of automobiles Alster. Instead of dredging this stream and smartly turned-out carriages suggesting and defiling its banks with sheds and docks Fifth Avenue, Unter den Linden, or Piccaand bulkheads, a sense of beauty moved dilly. At home or abroad, people with the Teutonic mind to transform it into a money to spend for luxuries buy things lake, preserved inviolate for the enjoyment pretty much alike and travel the same merof all good Hamburgers now and hereafter. ry-go-round of fashions and diversions. And so, like a great jewel, the Alster shines These first impressions veer to another in the very midst of the city which looks tack as one becomes better acquainted with out upon a sort of fairy-land from its boule- the life of Hamburg. Its leisure class is vards, hotels, offices, and stores.

much smaller than appears, the glitter is There are really two lakes, separated by mostly on the surface, and nobody thinks a bridge of noble architecture, the smaller less of his neighbor because he harkens dilin the business quarter of Hamburg, the igently to the gospel of hard work. A hunlarger extending spaciously in a region of dred years ago our own ports of Boston and villas, parks, gardens, and promenades Salem, then filled with deep-water ships, where dwell the wealthy merchants and were notable for a merchant aristocracy others on whom fortune has smiled. Small engaged in commerce over seas. The sons steamers ply between the Binnen-Alster of these families went from the solid, squareand the Aussen-Alster, and instead of be- sided brick mansions to the counting-rooms ing shot home through jammed and stilling on the wharves, and thence to forecastle and subways, these favored commuters are cabin, earning promotion step by step unwafted over the pleasant water while the til they gained command of East Indiamen bands are playing in the pavilions on shore and China tea packets, quitting the sea and the sailing yachts skim to and fro thereafter to become merchants ashore and

Like other North Sea ports, Antwerp and owners of square-rigged fleets. Before Amsterdam, for instance, Hamburg has a this era had vanished Harriet Martineau, net-work of ancient canals and basins and visiting Salem, remarked of its society: is a city which seems more or less afloat; “These enterprising merchants speak of but this bright expanse of the Alster, so Fayal and the Azores as if they were close lovingly conserved and beautified, is unique at hand. They have a large acquaintance among the world's great centres of trade. at Cairo. They know the grave of NaCommerce may be sordid and money-get- poleon at St. Helena and have wild tales ting a soulless business, but your German, to tell of Mozambique and Madagascar and who is eminently successful at both, is in stores of ivory to show from there. They his heart the most sentimental of beings. speak of the power of the king of Muscat In proof of which seeming paradox, please and are sensible of the riches of Arabia.

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View of the Lombards Bridge and the city.

to the backbone, but there is a sensible difference. Its spirit is more genuinely cosmopolitan. It is the meeting place of the long trails from everywhere to anywhere. Whether it be in a dingy Rathskeller of the harbor front or in the most pretentious dining hall of the Jungfernstieg, there is talk in other languages than German, there are faces from other climes to pique the curiosity, and there is the tang of romance and mystery inspired by these glimpses beyond the horizon.

The ear becomes accustomed to hearing Spanish spoken wherever people congregate for business or pleasure. A great part of the trade of South and Central America flows through Hamburg, whose steamers are to be found in every port of both coasts. Hither come the cattle kings of the Argentine, the rich merchants of Lima and Valparaiso, the dictators of explosive little

republics, the coffee magMain Entrance of the Emigrant Station or "model town."

nates of Brazil, who will

talk to you in Portuguese Anybody will give you anecdotes from Can- as well as French and Spanish. Pervasive, ton and descriptions of the Society and too, is the German travelling salesman, as Sandwich Islands."

great a rover as the Hamburg sailor, who On a far larger scale, for its population swings around the globe in a most enchantfalls just short of a million, these social ing orbit and spices the chat of the restauconditions are very typical of the Hamburg rants with tales of Capetown, Batavia, or of to-day. The manufacturing interests Nagasaki. He it is who has caused Engare large and varied but her absorbing af- land much disquietude and gloom, for this fairs are those of the sea and her most pow- ubiquitous person, linguist, diplomat, and erful citizens are the lords of commerce. trading expert, fills the holds of Hamburg New York is the new Babel, so the census ships with cargoes for the markets of every tells us, and London houses all races under ocean. Heaven, but unless one takes pains to seek In divers other ways, the people and the out the foreign quarters, the one city ap- interests of distant countries weave thempears thoroughly American, the other as selves into the fabric of one's impressions completely British. Hamburg is German of Hamburg. New York is the greatest of

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