benevolence, to shew more regard for the sacredness of Hardwár, than all the Hindu rulers who preceded them had done, and to expend upwards of three lakhs of rupees on remodeling and adorning its sacred bathing-place. About fifteen years ago, by order of Government, the old temples which blocked up the passage were removed, the way of access much enlarged, and paved with stone. A splendid flight of stone steps about 60 or 70 in number, and from one hundred to two hundred feet long; also magnificent temples, and dwelling-houses for the accommodation of the resident bráhmans, and pilgrims, were built up from the water's edge on both sides of the ghát. Whether Government was induced to expend so large a sum more from a desire to prevent suffering among the pilgrims, than to shew respect for the idolatrous practices of its heathen subjects, is probably a debateable question. At any rate the suffering might have been prevented with much less expenditure of funds. The town of Hardwár numbers about 200 houses, chiefly built by rájás and other wealthy Hindus for their accommodation during the annual fairs. Many of the houses are washed by the river. They are generally high, massy, stone buildings, and often ornainented with painted, and carved emblems of Hindu idolatry. The town has at the time of the fairs a splendid bazar. Shop-keepers from the neighbouring cities, and villages, flock in great numbers with an abundance of sweetmeats, and the more substantial supports of life, held in demand by the Hindus. Cloth-merchants, jewellers, and various other kinds of traders, literally crowd the streets on both sides, for more than a mile, with their gaudy merchandise. Here may be seen the productions of Europe, China, Persia, Caubul, Cashmere, and of Judea, all thrown together in " glorious confusion." Nor must we forget the vast multitudes of cattle exposed for sale. The surrounding groves and plains, are crowed with thousands of splendid horses from Arabia, Turkey, Persia, Caubul, and the mountains and plains of Hindustán. Large numbers of elephants, and camels, are also brought from a distance for sale. The whole scene reminds the spectator more of a large mart, than a religious convocation. In the absence of the Fairs, the town presents a most desolate aspect. Then, both bazars, and dwelling-houses are deserted by all except a few faqírs. This is probably owing to the fact, that living in a state of matrimony is considered by the bráhmans as altogether inconsistent with the sacredness of such a holy place as Hardwár. Hence the most of those attached to the temples reside at Kankal, a handsome village two miles south of Hardwár.

Numbers of Hindus resort to Hardwár at all times in the year, to bathe and pay their vows to "Gangá Mai" (mother Ganges), also to deposit the ashes of their deceased friends in its sacred waters; but the great annual fair commences about the first of April, and continues until the 11th or 12th, or until the Sankránt takes place. In every twelfth year it is considered by the Hindu peculiarly meritorious to bathe at Hardwár. Therefore on these occasions the number of pilgrims is double if not treble as many as attend the annual fairs. This melá is called the "Makar," and takes its name from the tenth Zodiacal sign, or Capricorn. To bathe while the sun is entering this sign, is said to be equal in merit to one hundred ablutions during as many eclipses. For several weeks before the fair commences, immense crowds of every age, sex and rank, may be seen in the neighbourhood of Hardwár winding their way to it from all directions, and no sooner do they reach its precincts, than loud shouts of " Gangá kí jai” (victory to Ganges) mingled with protracted bursts of enthusiasm, reach from multitude to multitude. Each vies with all, and all with each, in their tributes of praise to the unconscious river, and every one strives to catch the first glimpse of its purifying water. When will sinners be so eager to flock to Jesus, the fountain that cleanses from all sins?

From Kankal to Hardwár, the road leading along the bank of the river, is in many places lined on both sides for a considerable distance with elevated seats of chunám work, (masonry,) on which hordes of greedy faqirs sit for alms, and it is with no little vociferation they demand of the passing multitude what they deem their right. These pests of society also station themselves at the ghát, and with an impudent importunity, not to be resisted by the poor pilgrim, compel him to administer from his pittance to their wants, or rather avarice, for of wants, the Hindu faqír has but few. The ashes of cow's ordure to rub over his naked body and to powder his hair with, supplies his wardrobe; and as for food he would not condescend to buy it, he gets it as he gets his money, by begging, as the more honorable method of the two. The faqirs have each a peculiar badge to designate the sect to which they belong, and each sect has its separate encampment. They are also jealous of each other's preferinent; hence arises quarrels amongst them, and sometimes, fierce combats. For the suppression of these insurrections, a company of sipáhís from Dera, are usually stationed on the adjoining island during the fair, but their interference is seldom required.

The multitude at the bathing-place is sometimes almost numberless, and for a worshipping assembly certainly presents

a very grotesque appearance. At the ghát and on the piazzas of the adjoining temples, thousands of both sexes may be seen at all hours of the day and until 10 or 11 o'clock at night, preparing after the Hindu fashion for bathing, while as many at the same place are exchanging the dripping garments in which they have just emerged from the water, for dry ones.

In the river the scene is still more unbecoming, hundreds of men, women, and children, of all ranks and ages, and with but little regard for the exposure of their persons, may be seen swimming and splashing promiscuously through the water. The bráhmans also are not to be overlooked in this scene. Some squatted on platforms raised above the water, are painting the foreheads of those who flock around them, not however without being well paid for it. Others like as many hungry tigers prowl through the aquatic multitude, and with an authority peculiar to themselves, demand money from each pilgrim for the privilege of having his sins washed away in the Ganges. And should their demands not be complied with, resort is not unfrequently had to violence, and the poor pilgrim, who after much toil thinks he has reached the gate of heaven, finds himself either robbed of the few pice he had in his possession, or his scanty clothing. So much for the mercy of the brahmans, and the spirit of Hinduism. bráhmans, appear to content themselves with raking up from the bottom of the river jewels, and pieces of gold, and silver, which had been deposited with the ashes of the deceased. These they procure by scooping up the ashes with a basket attached to their feet and washing them on the surface of the water. This process, together with the agitation of the waters produced by those bathing, keeps the river almost constantly in a turbid state. This circumstance, however, does not prevent them from taking large and repeated draughts of the purifying stream.

Other

As it is considered particularly efficacious to bathe at the precise time of the Sankránt's taking place, (the sun entering a new sign), the event is no sooner proclaimed by the bráhmans, than there is a general rush to the bathing-place, and not unfrequently great contests for precedency in bathing. After this long desired ablution is obtained, the multitudes disperse, and all commence their retrograde march. Numbers however it is to be feared never reach their homes. While at Hardwar we found two poor pilgrims, one a man and the other a woman, lying on the road at the point of death; and although thousands of their countrymen passed and repassed them every hour, there was no good Samaritan among them. We

had them taken to our tent, and gave them medicine, and a little nourishment, but it was too late, they both died in a few hours. Such doubtless befell many more.

During ten days which we spent at the fair, two brethren, myself, and two native assistants, preached Christ to some hundreds of souls, and distributed some thousands of Gospels and tracts to many, from various parts of India, who never before heard of the Saviour. We found the people generally very civil, and disposed both to listen to our message, and receive our books. May the Lord prosper the preaching, and the reading of his word. These are the constituted agency of heaven for the salvation of men-the panoply of God with which as the Sovereign of the universe he goes forth to subjugate this rebellious world to himself. With these, accompanied by the Holy Ghost he will go forth, conquering and to conquer, triumphing over his enemies, until the heathen be given to Christ for his inheritance, and the uttermost parts of the earth for his possession.

10th July, 1840.

J. M. J.

IV.-A Voice from the Ocean-at Sea, in the Bay of Bengal, steering for Calcutta, Aug. 1840.

To the Editors of the Calcutta Christian Observer.

DEAR SIRS, Can you make room in your "Observer" for a voice from the sea? or are British seamen beyond the sphere of your holy exertions and Christian enterprize? Though many of you who in the luxurious "city of palaces" "live at home at ease," may look down with selfish indifference upon the hardy sons of the ocean, who visit your port, yet let us not forget, "It is to the instrumentality of our seamen (under Providence) that at this moment we owe our very existence as a free and independent nation--and should war again sound its alarm, it must be to our seamen, as instruments in the hands of Providence, that we (Britain) must look for future protection and deliverance. Their ships must form a rampart round our coasts. Their bosoms so often bared to the storm, must then be presented to the enemy's cannon-then shall we not provide for the spiritual welfare, the eternal security of those who watch so patiently and contend so bravely for our temporal safety?—In time of peace they eminently contribute to our national wealth and furnish us with many of our domestic comforts, and as they minister to us in temporal things, is it too much for us to minister to them, in those which are spiritual? Oh, were only a thousandth part of the hazard, the ardour, costly self-sacrifice of the maritine class in the cause of the national welfare to be repaid by the Christian, in the promotion of its religious interest, if only justice were done to it, how large and active the machinery of benevolence which would instantly be put in motion on its behalf!"-I believe the Calcutta Christian community have not

been backward in meeting the spiritual and temporal wants of British seamen on their arrival in your far-famed port. Is not the crowning ornament on the splendid Palace of the Governor General of India a representation of BRITTANIA? Is not the representation upon the very Coins of our Eastern Realm, BRITTANIA holding in her hand the scales of Justice? Surely then you welcome heartily BRITTANIA'S Ocean-sons upon your shore? or do you abandon them to crimps, drunkenness and ruin? No! your SAILOR'S HOME yields abundant proof that you have nobly thought of their welfare. I am now amidst a crew of British seamen, mostly young and thoughtless, and many of them, it is to be feared. ready to rush when on shore into every temptation and ruin. It has struck me, that the beneficial agency of your "SAILOR'S HOME," or "SEAMEN'S FRIEND SOCIETY," might MEET with great effect every Christian ship, entering your port, for how eagerly after a voyage do we welcome the first messengers from shore? the Pilot to meet us at sea! The letter-boat or any communication or letter from the friendly shore has a hearty welcome. Surely then the messengers of glad tidings of great joy to us and all mankind, ought to be amongst the first to greet our arrival. Short appropriate printed letters, addressed to seamen-tracts from the “Seaman's Home,” or “Bethel," or "Seamen's Friend," or Christian Societies, might, with God's blessing, be distributed through the ships from "fore to aft," to be read with interest, circulated from hand to haud, bidding them as brethren, a hearty welcome to your coast and city, inviting them to your “ Sailor's Home," warning them against the danger on shore, of crimps, drunkenness, and temptation of every kind, and directing the mind to Canaan's shore, to the haven of Eternal rest, to the anchor of Hope; to the heavenly chart-to the Pole Star of Salvation-to merchandise greater far than east or west unfold-to the pearl of great price; thus acquitting yourselves nobly, and as it were going forth in hospitality to meet "those that go down to the sea in ships and do business in great waters-those who see the work of the Lord and his wonders in the deep." Think of these suggestions, you who are privileged to guide and direct the benevolence of the public. Ye statesmen, ye philanthropists, ye patrons, presidents, secretaries, treasurers, and members of philanthropic Societies, ye Sailor's Homes, ye Seaman's Friends, ye Tract and Christian instruction societies, ye Christian merchants, all ye of Calcutta, Bombay and Madras especially, think of these things?

I shall look with much interest whether the friendly agents of the "Sailor's Home" or "Seaman's Friend Society," visit our ship ere she reaches port, the scene of temptation-or whether our gallant seamen are to be allowed to plunge into those scenes and be unhappily caught in the snares, ere the Seaman's Home or Friend be made known to them, or whether its friendly communication and Christian instruction meet them ere they can set foot on shore.

A VOICE FROM THE OCEAN.

P. S. Doubtless your" Sailor's Home" and "Seaman's Friend Society". are amply supplied with tracts addressed especially to seamen; if not, ought not a supply to be immediately obtained from home or printed in Calcutta, Bombay, and Madras? Does a boat from the "Sailor's Home" or "Seaman's Friend Society" go off to every ship arriving? At the next meeting of their committees would it not be good to consult what further measures can be effected for the benefit of seamen. It would be well if every member of the committees had a copy of HARRIS's Prize Essay upon those subjects-or "the moral claims of seamen stated and enforced," an admirable book with many excellent suggestions-amongst other means