steel our hearts against the commonest humanity, and shut our eyes to the most obvious dictates of morality? We pick out of the streets persons for whom we are not specially responsible, to reclaim them in reformatories and penitentiaries; and ourselves, through our paid agents, corrupt our own young soldiers, who have the most affecting claims upon us for protection and help. Even our army reformers, who have done so much for the soldier after he has enlisted, avert their eyes from the flagrant scandals of the recruiting system-a system that panders to the very vices for which the man is subsequently punished. The following remarks appear to reach the fond of the matter, and are the basis of Sir Charles's scheme for the reorganization of the British army: There are but two sets of motives by which mankind are influenced. One set appeals to their animal nature and their fears; the other to their human nature and their hopes. By giving soldiers who enter through the ranks a share of the military, and nearly the whole of the administrative promotion, we could make the army an object of desire to the whole of our population, including that largest and best portion of it which has been practically excluded for more than two hundred years. The only bitter thing which the mildest of men (the late Sir Robert Inglis) ever said in Parliament was during the reign of the railway king: "I can admire an aristocracy of talent, I can respect an aristocracy of rank; but an aristocracy of wealth is not to be endured." Only lation in the army is like fighting with one hand tied. Sir Charles believes that if the English army could be brought into harmony with the rest of the English political and social system, and our military arrangements based upon moral and intellectual qualification instead of money, every rank in the army would be elevated in character and position. * the soldier the career of his own profession is * *"To open to the only possible course: this will solve the recruiting difficulty, by making admission to the ranks a privilege and dismissal from them a punishment, by restoring to the army important classes which are at present practically excluded from it, and by making the army a highly popular institution, common to every portion of English society." The author thinks "it is a mistake to suppose that, if our army were resuscitated on professional principles, it would no longer furnish suitable occupation to young men who are heirs to considerable properties. On the contrary, this object would be more completely obtained than before. The army would be a school as well as a playground; while in the army our young men of fortune would have to work as if they depended upon it for their subsistence, and they would be the better all time to a really liberal profession. their lives for having belonged for a the idle and incompetent, who ought under circumstances to The army is the last any be excluded, would fail to obtain admission; and many who now depend upon money and connexion for advancement would be stimulated to acquire the personal qualification necessary for success. * * * The motive which induces our upper classes to enter the army is not the privilege of exhausting their patrimony, and incurring debt in the purchase of commissions, but the cheerful, out-ofdoor, adventurous life, the prestige, the hope of attaining early distinction-all of which will remain as before." Our author goes on to say, that "an officer who enters without paying, and resigns without receiving anything, is better off than one who pays for his commission and gets his money back on quitting the army, by the full amount of the interest and life-assurance on the purchase-money, which is often greater than the pay he receives." *** "The peculiar vice of the English system of purchase consists in what is popularly called the leap-frog principle, by which officers of inferior claims of service and qualification pass over the heads of more deserving and better qualified officers." Such a system must of course act disadvantageously to the service, and help to sour and render men indifferent to it. Another grievance is the inefficiency of the remuneration in com place where this principle should be in the ascendant. In former days the middle class was trained to the use of arms, with a view to national defence, and they showed on many memorable occasions what they were capable of, for the honour and safety of England. Crecy, Poictiers, and Agincourt were won by the yeomen archers-a middle-class element, wanting in the French arms of that age: "And you, good yeomen, Whose limbs were made in England, show us here The mettle of your pasture." Under Cromwell [continues the writer] they held all England, Ireland, and Scotland in subjection; but since the Restoration it has been the practice to exclude them from our military system, and to base the defence of the country on the highest and lowest classes. That the middle class, to whose successful ex-parison with the cost of commissions. The ertions in every branch of enterprize and industry, at home and abroad, the present greatness of England is mainly due, have not lost a particle of their military spirit, is proved by the manner in which they responded to the volunteer movement in our fathers' time and our own. To allow no place to this portion of our popu author very justly observes that "the first condition of professional efficiency is that there should be full professional remuneration; whereas the army-system deeply offends against this principle. Another practice is the selling of commissions for more than their regulated value-a misdemeanour, according to Act of Parliament, which subjects an officer so doing, promotion from the ranks at least to as high a to be cashiered; but which Act, though re- grade as that permitted in the French armyprinted in every new edition of the Queen's that of captain." We have not space to follow Regulations and Orders for the Army,' is daily all the author's arguments in favour of these outraged with the full knowledge and acquies- projected amendments, or his proposals for their cence of those who are charged with the en-accomplishment, for which we refer our readers forcement of the law-a system which must destroy all feeling of respect for law and authority, and exert a depressing moral influence. Sir Charles's panacea for these and other abuses in the present army system lies in the abolition of purchase, which would enable "the best class of young men who now enter the artillery and engineers, the Indian Civil Service, the law, &c., &c., to enter the army, and to his pages. His exposition of the evils and abuses of the present system in the British Army is masterly, his suggestions for their removal replete with careful study of the subject and matured reflection as to the means. The statements, from the prospect it opens of the army as a career for middle-class men of spirit and capacity, will be found interesting to a wide circle of readers. THE TOILET. (Specially from Paris.) FIRST FIGURE.-INDOOR AND VISITING TOILET.-Dress of Spa-grey pou-de-soie: The skirt is trimmed down the seams, and finished at bottom with a plaited ornament. Body round at the waist, sleeves tight. Short in-door jacket, made of black velvet, without sleeves; it is ornamented by means of one of Wilson and Wheeler's sewing machines, with elaborate embroidery and jet-bead fringes. The basque is cut in rounded points. Linen collar and undersleeves of the pointed form. SECOND FIGURE.-Dress of blue pou-de-soie, or poplin, with two skirts: the first trimmed with six bias-pieces of the material, each of the same depth; the second skirt has the sides hollowed out, and is trimmed with three similar bias-pieces, finished at the point formed by the meeting of the trimming at the head of the part; that is cut out by an ornament of clustered leaves made of the material of the dress. Body with long basque, trimmed en suite. Tight sleeves, with epaulet. Collar and sleeves of Venetian lace, and round the neck a velvet with long ends, finished with crystal beads, and supporting a large gold medallion in front. Efforts are still being made to introduce short dresses for walking costumes, and as every lady, we believe, aspires to be well dressed, and to follow, to a moderate extent, the prevailing modes-although we do not advocate extremes, and would not advise any one to follow blindly every foible that appears-when a desirable fashion is introduced, it is well that it should be adopted. One thing, however, should always be remembered, that every new fashion be modified to suit the years and style of the wearer. By following our directions, we think there ill be little difficulty in cutting one of these dresses. The measures we give are for a medium-sized person, and will be found a good guide, but, of course, must be varied to suit the size of the wearer. Garments old in the service may thus be brought out and remodelled into fashionable costumes. The lower skirt must by no means touch the ground, but should be of sufficient length to appear well when walking. It is composed of eight breadths, the back and front being without seam down the centre. The front width measures thirty-nine inches in length, is twentyfour inches wide at the lower edge, and slopes on each side up to the waist, where it only measures six inches. The back breadth is precisely the same width, but is 41 inches long. The three intermediate ones are alike, being twenty-two inches wide at the lower part, and slope on one side up to three inchies. The breadths are sewed together, so that the gored side is always nearest the back of the dress. The upper skirt is composed of eight smaller gores, and, as in the lower skirt, the front and back widths are without seam down the centre. These breadths are the same in width, sloping on each side from nineteen inches to the waist, which is but six inches. The front breadth is thirty-one inches long and the back thirty-three. The other widths are thirty-three inches long, and slope from eighteen to three inches. The edge of the upper skirt is notched or dentated in fancy motifs or designs. For instance, points with the ends cut off forming squares, turrets, slanting teeth, scallops, lozenge-shaped ends, graduated steps, the sharp points known as folies, and many other inexplicable designs, that fancy alone dictates. The tips of the points or ends are generally finished with fringe or jet trimming made on the material, with bugles and beads. not be accused of want of liberality and enterprise in catering for the amusement of the public. Macbeth, The Colleen Bawn, and two screaming farces produced in one week, are surely sufficient to satisfy the appetite of the most craving play-goer. Mr. Sidney has once more got his company into good working order The lower skirt generally has a plain edge trimmed with a fold of velvet or satin studded with beads, or else it is finished with a Marie Antoinette ruffle a quarter of a yard deep, sewed on in overlapping single plaits. In Paris the latter style is the one most generally pre-after the late inclement season, and the cheerfulferred. We have no salient novelty to record in the way of corsages: they are made round to wear with a fancy belt or basque. Sleeves, with very few exceptions, are made very close at the wrist. For full toilets long trains are indispensable: the latest model we have seen measures two yards in the skirt behind, and is nine yards round at the bottom. A heresy is at present gaining ground as to the orthodox nature of the taste of Parisian fashionists. It is said that invention has failed them, and that, judging from appearances, we shall shortly return to the fashion of four hundred years ago. Certain it is that there are in high quarters symptoms of a reversion to high heads, and instead of the chignon being protruded a quarter of a yard from the back of the head, its material will probably be worn on the crown. All the breadths of the long dresses, with the exception of the back, are gored. The back width is straight, and laid in a large box-plait at the waist, and the dress should be made to fasten under this plait, to save the ugly opening at the side, which very often exhibits the petticoat. A cording or piping, sometimes double, of two colours (if the material is striped), is run on the seams; this is also carried round the edge of the skirt, which is frequently waved or scalloped. Satin is much used for trimming, and beads and buttons abound. In bonnets, one of the prettiest I have seen was of the round form, posed on the summit of the head, and composed of rosecoloured tulle, shaded with white tulle, on which lay a star of lace, and between its points sprays of spring-roses, with foliage. Brides, barbes of tulle, upon which, on each side, fell cordons of the same flowers. The brides may either be thrown behind or fastened in a knot before. We have seen nothing new in the trimming of under-skirts since we replied to our correspondents in this article last month. Upon the receipt of Messrs. Jannings' Spring Models, we are kindly promised an exposition of them, a description of which shall appear for the benefit of our lady subscribers. GREENWICH THEATRE. In our last number we intimated that Miss Sallie Booth was about to appear as Lady Macbeth. We extract the following account of the performance from the Borough of Greenwich Standard "The manager of this theatre can ness and improvement in all they do are manifest. On Thursday, Shakespeare's majestic and fiery tragedy of Macbeth was produced, with all Locke's music, and, considering the ambitious character of the work and the resources of a small theatre, the success was triumphant. Miss Sallie Booth's personation of Lady Macbeth will not be forgotten by those who witnessed it. It was a specimen of the greatest power and finish. It generally happens that the actress who can satisfy us in Juliet fails in Lady Macbeth, and vice versa, thus indicating, and very naturally, some want of completeness in histrionic ability. Juliet is a girl, loving, tender, and earnest, harmonising with the humanity of a woman's nature; Lady Macbeth is an outrage upon her sex, and yet she is a human being in her stricken conscience. Nothing can be a greater proof that Miss Booth possesses real genius, than the fact that she grappled with both these Shakesperian creations with almost equal intensity and effect. The amiable lines of her face and the mellow tones of her voice are not altogether calculated for expressing the demoniac and gloomy passions of Lady Macbeth, but her mastery over the forces of the soul belongs to the highest sphere of mental endowment. Nothing could be more impressive than her sleepwalking scene, or more solemnly pathetic than her delivery of the words 'Not all the perfumes of Araby can sweeten this little hand.' Mr. Roberts acted Macbeth with great ability. We have carefully watched the progress of this gentleman, and it is worth watching. He is essentially a good melodramatic actor. Melodrama demands a coarse breadth and power of treatment, which are distinctly within his grasp. We were, therefore, taken by surprise in the subtlety and effectiveness of his performance, although his vocal powers are not perfectly organised and cultivated. Mr. McFayden, as Macduff, shared the honours of the evening with Macbeth, and performed his part in 222 Annual Meeting of the Royal National Life-boat Institution. a sweet delicate flavour-to use a culinary fiery furnace twice daily, proved an immense simile quite appetising. Miss Hetty Tracey, success. A woman who enacted the same who is a favourite with the audience on account exciting role was encored in her seemingly of her ability and her pretty face and figure, perilous undertaking; but I have never heard acted the heroine, Eily O'Connor (The Colleen that the useful invention practically illustrated Bawn), in a pleasant little tame manner, which in the proceeding has found favour in the eyes of did not jolt one's sympathies. Her Irish pro- mistresses of families or their laundresses. At clivities are of the slenderest description- the present time, the mystery of the "Speaking 'spake, mane, kape,' and a few other words Head," the representation of which renders appeared to comprehend the whole of her every hoarding and dead wall grimly suggestive notions of the speech of an Irish country girl. of a scene of horror, has taken the town by Father Tom's blessing on her head, that the storm, and shown that something akin to the swate Irish brogue may never lave your tongue,' morbid sentiment that fills the Spanish circus was one of the shortest lived stage blessings that with spectators is not "dead, but sleepeth" we ever heard uttered. In truth, the first night, amongst ourselves. But the really and desernearly all the actors wandered in and out of the vedly popular, and at the same time satisfactory brogue in a fashion that may be excusable, but sight at the Polytechnic, is the automatic Leowas not artistic. We must not omit to mention tard, the ingenuity of which renders its exhibiMr. Steyne, who as Mr. Corregan was capital. tion doubly interesting. The figure of the The more we see of this actor, the more heartily mute acrobat, which appears suspended from we can endorse the opinion expressed by a the ceiling of the Hall, is not moved after the metropolitan reviewer, that he is a thorough ordinary manner of self-acting machines, that is artist. Miss Lotti Moreton, as Mrs. Gregan, by clock-work wound up to perform certain deserves much praise. She dressed herself well, movements. The only agent of the extraand acted with more power than we thought ordinary and life-like performances of this figure she possessed. Miss Seymour, as Shelah, was is electricity communicated to it by the action a very effective bustling and animated re- of a singular musical machine, which simulates presentative of the cottage woman. Her make (very harshly we are bound to say) the sounds up and style were excellent. Mr. Roberts, as of various instruments, which, at the moment Danny Mann, was decidedly good, in spite of of their simultaneous crashing together, excites the deficiency of his Irish vocabulary." the mimic gymnast to his work. Look at him as he slowly swings, as if to test the apparatus; and watch the seeming compression of muscular power with which he gradually extends the bold swing with which he emulates his living namesake, and the way in which he appears to gather up his strength to make the exciting sommersault. One thrills, and cringes, and curdles through every vein and nerve, while watching the marvellously life-like simulation; and yet one knows it is but simulation, and that no harm can come of it. It is a hint, ROYAL POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTION, REGENT-STREet. exhibitions of this nature, for the effect can be There was a time, notwithstanding the popularly instructive style of Professor Pepper's lectures, and the odds and ends of scientific and mechanical knowledge to be gleaned in its hall and theatres-there was a time when enui and headache indissolubly connected them-in its way, that should put an end to living selves with a visit to this respectable institution. The illustrations of electricity failed to arouse the languid and scanty audience; so did lectures on light and chemistry; they interested a few, and superficially amused the majority; but people were glad when the dissolving views came, and the diver, and the glass of Thames water magnified. These last, if we except the apparition of a kindly-looking old gentleman's face (we have missed it for many a year), enlarged to gigantic proportions, and the immortal Polytechnic flea (whose ubiquitous existence we still firmly believe in)-these were the nearest exhibitions approaching the sensational. But the executive discovered that the adage "All work and no play" applied to Polytechnic audiences, as well as to "Jack;" dull boys yawned there, who should have been drinking in all sorts of scientific snaps; but who didn't, and came out feeling as if their ears had been entertained with "tinkling brass and sounding cymbals." So a new régime was introduced. A man who played in his single person the parts of Shadrach, Meshech, and Abednego, walking through a ANNUAL MEETING OF THE ROYAL NATIONAL LIFE-BOAT INSTITUTION. On the 28th ult. this Institution held its annual meeting in the Egyptian-hall of the Mansion-house, under exceptionally interesting and auspicious circumstances, the heir to of Annual Meeting of the Royal National Life-boat Institution. he throne of England presiding. It was no wonder therefore that the hall was filled beyond its power of accommodation, and that many gentlemen stood throughout the whole of the proceedings. The Prince (whose voice, clear, sweet, and resonant, like that of his august mother, made itself beard distinctly throughout the hall) spoke earnestly on behalf of the noble and important charity whose cause he had undertaken. He pointed out the absolute necessity for an institution of the kind in a maritime nation like our own, and how it differed from the many other beneficent charities we possess, because the saving of life for which it operates involves the risk of life on the part of those engaged in its service. His Royal Highness drew attention to the grateful facts that a thousand lives had been saved, by means of life-boats, in the present year, and that life-boats were no longer confined to our own coasts, but that many foreign nations had emulated our example, and had chosen our institution as the model for theirs. The Prince also observed that life-boats had been given by many benevolent individuals: some as thank-offerings from the friends of those whose lives have been saved, and others in memory of those who are now unhappily no more. Turning to Mr. Lewis, the energetic Secretary (who occupied a seat on the Prince's left), he remarked that Mr. Lewis had held that office previous to the Duke of Northumberland's presidentship, and his late lamented father's vice-patronage, and had done so ever since, and that it was mainly owing to his experience and the manner in which he has worked, that the Society had arrived at its present efficiency (graceful and well-merited praise). Other officers of the institution were mentioned as rendering and having rendered important services to the institution. One hundred and seventy-four life-boats were afloat, thirty-three of them having been added to the Society during the past year, at the cost of £17,000, which had been defrayed by benevolent individuals. His Royal Highness ended his address by calling upon his hearers to offer their support to the institution. Mr. Richard Lewis, the Secretary (as soon as the cheers that followed his Royal Highness's speech permitted him), read the annual report; and, amongst other encouraging facts connected with the institution and its objects, stated that it was now building five of its improved fishingboate, provided with safety fittings, hoping thereby to gradually introduce such improvements in the smaller class of fishing-boats as might lead to a considerable diminution in the loss of life. In conclusion he pointed out that operations of the Society extended over all the British isles, and the committee were determined, with the blessing of Almighty God and the sympathy of and support of the British public, to leave no effort untried that can assist in any way in lessening the annual loss of life on our shore. Sir John Pakington, in a forcible speech, 223 pointed out that for forty-three years the Society had steadily pursued its benevolent exertions, with yearly-increasing success. Thus, while in 1824 one hundred and twenty-four lives had been saved, last year nine hundred and twentyfour persons were rescued, either directly or indirectly, by the instrumentality of the Society. Vain, however, would be the efforts of that Society and the generosity of the British public were it not for the happy combination of bravery and humanity which had ever been the characteristic of the true British sailor, who was always ready to come to the rescue, and to throw himself, however desperate the chances and dangers of the undertaking might be, into the life-boat and rush to the help of his suffering fellow-creatures. He reminded the meeting also of the aid the clergy had ever given to the Association, and of recent instance in which clergymen had physically lent a hand in saving lives from shipwreck. Lord Hardwick, Sir Stafford Northcote, and other gentlemen, spoke of the influence and objects of the institution. At the conclusion of several addresses a vote of thanks was tendered to the Prince, who, in briefly replying to it, gracefully acknowledged the gift of a model of the "Albert Victor" life-boat from the Society, which appeared in a glass-case on the table; and he hoped, when his eldest son at some future time was looking at it, he would remember that it was named after him in his infancy, and that before he had attained the age of three years it had been the means, under God's providence, of saving between twenty and thirty lives. The touch of nature in this allusion to home-life and his little son ran through the assembly electrically-one could see it in the women's eyes, and hear it in the men's cheers; and if the Prince was popular east of Temple-bar prior to the last day of February, 1867, there is no doubt that he has become much more so since; while the cause for which he presided was thus incidentally furnished with one of the strongest incentives to its support in the reverence for and love of the home and its relations, that is so dear to English men and women. Every pound-nay, mere pence, presented to the institution turn to life-boat timbers and fittings; and every being snatched from the engulphing waves by their instrumentality preserves some home from desolation or destruction, and takes back to it the father or brother or son on whom it probably depends, or by whom it is, in some sort, supported. During the meeting a magnificent donation, from an anonymous lady, of £600 was handed in; and two other cheques, for 400 and 100 guineas severally, were announced.-C. A. W. Contributions and donations will be thankfully received at the office of the Institution, 14, John-street, Adelphi, by Richard Lewis, Esq., Secretary, and by all bankers in town and country. |