Trouble

Governor fails to work. Engine
races, cuts out too soon, or stops.
No compression. Runs first fast,
then slow. Suddenly speeds up or
slows down. Picks up badly under
load.

Ignition bad. Engine runs slug-
gishly and unevenly. Sometimes
runs jerkily. Will start on prim-
ing charge but not run itself. Mis-
fires. Back explosions. Muffler
explosions. Pound.

Cause

piece in gear case. Broken ball in
thrust bearing. Gear out of line
with engine.

Springs too strong or too weak
or broken. Arms of weights stuck
or bent. Toggles, or sliding collar,
stuck or jammed. Loose parts
causing backlash. Mechanism out
of true or badly adjusted.
Springs rusty or parts gummed
from old oil or paint.

Short circuits; weak batteries.
Coil burnt out or vibrator stuck.
Short circuit in coil of timer. En-
gine timed so that ignition takes
place too late or too early. Timer
contacts worn. Wires broken or
insulation bad. Magneto broken,
short-circuited, or belt slips.
Brushes worn or dirty.
Oil or
water on spark-plug points. Ig-
niter points worn or dirty. Mica
packing broken or oil-filled. Ig-
niter springs too weak or rocker

Remedy

Clean thoroughly and oil well.
Look after springs and see that
all parts move readily and freely
but are not loose.

one.

Overhaul wires and test bat-
teries and coil. Clean vibrator.
Try a new coil. Clean contacts
and all connections on switch, coil,
and plug. Clean plug or use new
Clean timer and oil it well.
Try on batteries without magneto.
Replace brushes if worn. Try new
springs on igniter. Clean spindle
with kerosene. Tighten rocker on
spindle. Clean mica packing or
replace. If wires are wet or oil-

soaked try new wire. Remember

Trouble

Knocking or pounding. Any un-
usual sound or rattle in cylinder
base or about any part of engine.
Occasional loud explosions when
starting or smoke blowing out
from joints in crank case in two-
cycle motors.

Loss of power, or poor speed.
Sluggish running. Misfires. Back
explosions. Smoke from base of
engine and carburetor. Black
smoke from exhaust. Blue smoke
from exhaust. Failure to run even
when motor starts easily.

Cause

spindle stuck, bent, or rocker loose on spindle.

Pre-ignition. Spark too far ad-
vanced. Soot or carbon in cylin-
der or plug. Short circuit in timer.
Overheated engine. Want of oil.
Poor oil. Some part loose, cracked,
or broken. Worn or dry bearings.
Loose piston pin. Broken rings.
Loose weights on governor or
parts of governor striking en-
gine. Choked muffler or too small
exhaust pipe. Water in cylinder
or base. Too weak a mixture.

Faulty ignition. Poor mixture.
Faulty lubrication. Too much air
in mixture causes base explosions.
Too much gasolene causes misfires
and black smoke. Too much oil
causes blue smoke. Failure to
turn over more than once or twice
when started shows too rich mix-
ture or some stoppage in gasolene
supply, inlet valve stuck, or base

Remedy

that most motor troubles are in
the ignition.

Retard spark. Clean plug and
cylinder. Look at rings. Test all
parts for looseness. Watch timer
for sparks in same. Test for short
circuits. Thoroughly oil all parts.
Examine for water. Try with
muffler disconnected. Give richer
mixture.

Overhaul ignition. Give more
or less fuel as required. Give
more or less oil. Drain and clean
carburetor, pipes, and tank. Try
new spring in check valve. Work
the inlet valve by hand and clean
with kerosene. Use a heavier
grade of oil on bearings.

Trouble

Lubrication poor or intermittent.
Overheating. Sluggish running.
Bad smells from exhausts. Mis-
fires. Blue smoke. Knocking,
pounding, or seizing of piston or
bearings. Noise. Warm or hot
bearings.

Misfires. Engine runs slug-
gishly or jerkily. Runs well a
short time and then slows down
and stops. Explosions in base or
muffler.

Cause
compression leaky in two-cycle
engines. Also caused by failure
of check valve to seat properly in
two-port engines.

Poor cil or oil of an improper
consistency. Forgetting to oil or
failure to feed oil regularly. Oil-
feeds choked with old oil, dirt, or
water. Oil-pump (in force feed)
out of order; belt or friction drive
to oiler slips. Particles of grit or
metal in oil. Leak in oiler tank.

Remedy

Try a different grade of oil and
thoroughly clean all oilers, pipes
and feeds, and oil connections.
Adjust feeds accurately to feed
more or less as required. Try new
belt or friction wheel. Test tank
for leakage. Use the best oil
money can buy; oil is cheaper
than engines.

Overhaul ignition as for troubles
already described.
or
Try new

Ignition or carburetor troubles.
Dirty plugs, connections,
switch contacts. If engine runs
slower and slower and then stops
without overheating, batteries are
run down. Timer dry, dirty, or
worn. Igniter binds in bushing
when hot. Muffler chokes up or
carburetor does not feed as fast as
motor requires. Tank too low or

switch, wires, or timer. Keep
timer well oiled. Use new bat-
teries. See that belt, gear, or fric-
tion on magneto drive are not
slipping. Try without muffler or
with cut-out open. Depress float
on carburetor. Give more gaso-
lene or less as required. Raise

Remedy

tank. See that air-vent is free.
Tighten lock nuts on valve or
throttle.

Slow motor down before stop-
ping. Shut off by throttle before
using switch. Use water-cooled
exhaust or muffler. Clean muffler.
Tighten up all muffler and exhaust
connections and bolts. Use weak-
er mixture.

Tighten up all connections,
screws, and nuts. Hold piece of
wood, or hand, on various parts
to determine where noise origi-
nates. Oil well. Place fibre wash-
ers under springs and wherever
two pieces of metal hit or rattle
against one another. Replace
these washers as fast as worn out.
Take up all lost motion.

Renew or clean all pipes, radi-
ator, etc. Examine pump and
pump-drive. Examine check
valves and clean. Tighten or re-