a piece of sheet metal and soldered to the wires often break partly off without any external sign of the fracture and in this way cause an interrupted or weak current that is exceedingly difficult to locate. Primary and secondary terminals for the main wires come in a variety of forms and designs. A common form is shown in Fig. 137, which represents the "Reliance" terminal. These may be used by slipping over the nut or thumb screw on the top of spark plug or may be fastened by

Fig. 137.-" Reliance" Terminals

screwing the nut down over them. Another splendid style of terminal is the "Ball and Socket" form illustrated in Fig. 138. These terminals are designed to be fastened to the wire without solder or special appliances. It is only necessary to cut the wire off square, shove it into the socket, and screw the wood screw in tight. The sides of the terminal are made of spring metal with a recess to fit over the ball adapter or hexagon ball nut furnished as a part of the equipment. The use of the ball-and-socket joint allows free play of the wires in any direction and insures a perfect connection,

Terminals which will answer every purpose may be readily made by bending the end of the wire into a loop, twisting it together and soldering it firmly in place.

In repairing, adjusting, or overhauling motors various gaskets or packings will be encountered, and as these are usually broken or injured in getting the joints apart, it is essential that the operator should know how to make new ones and be familiar with the materials to use. Gaskets are rings or sheets of material cut into the form

Fig. 138.-" Connecticut " Terminals

of the parts and placed between two surfaces, such as the two sides of a cylinder head, between the two sides of a union, etc. They are made of paper, asbestos, fibre, metal, rubber, leather, etc. The best material for cylinder-head gaskets and any other places where there is considerable pressure, as well as water or gasolene, or both, is the material known as "semi-bronze";

this packing consists of a fine sheet of copper-wire gauze embedded in a sheet of asbestos and covered with graphite or black lead. In many places exceedingly thin gaskets must be used, and in such spots tough manila paper well soaked in oil or grease and rubbed with graphite is the best material. Metal gaskets are used between flanges in flange unions, on exhaust connections, etc., and usually come ready-made in various sizes.

Asbestos of itself is a very poor material to use about gasolene engines, as it is frail, is readily soaked by water or gasolene, and is hard to cut or handle without tearing or breaking. In making a gasket the best method is to clean the part to be fitted and then lay a sheet of the paper or other material over it. With a smooth-faced wooden mallet or piece of rounded hardwood, tap all over the surface until the edges of the joints, as well as the various bolt or screw holes, are well imprinted on the material. Then, with a circular punch, cut the holes where indicated and after this is done cut out the edges of the joints. A gasket must never have rough edges that will bind or catch in the joints, and the holes for the bolts or screws must be smooth and ample in size. Rub the gasket with oil or oil and graphite before placing on the joint and then lay upon the surface of the joint carefully. Be sure there are no wrinkles, bits of dirt, or inequalities in the gasket and make sure that it fits perfectly before placing the other part of the joint on it. When all is ready, place the two pieces together and screw home the bolts a little at a time, working gradually, first on one side and then on

another, but never tightening up all at once on any one bolt.

Packings for pump plungers, revolving shafts, stuffing boxes, etc., are usually made of cotton wicking or hemp packing. In making such a packing be sure and clean out all the old material, use packing of the proper size, oil thoroughly before putting in place, and do not pack too tight until it has formed a good bearing or seat for the shaft or other object. Never use white or red lead on a gasket or packing of a gas engine unless you are looking for trouble. Oil and graphite is the best material, and unless the packing or the ground joints are very badly made or have been abused, nothing is needed in addition.

In adjusting a new motor, or one which has been recently overhauled, you should proceed slowly, doing one thing at a time, and remembering exactly how each adjustment was beforehand and exactly how you have altered it. A valve may be ruined by turning it a trifle too tight, or a screw thread stripped or a bolt head twisted off by a slight pressure beyond the normal. In taking down or overhauling a motor each part should be marked and a similar mark placed on the part of the motor where it belonged. This may be done by light marks with a centre punch or by scratches on the paint, enamel, or metal. In taking apart a four-cycle motor this is most important in the case of the timer and valve gears. The alteration in position of a single tooth on a gear will throw the entire valve out of position. In taking apart such gears always mark the teeth, where they mesh, with a prick punch or centre

punch so there may be no difficulty in placing them together correctly.

Setting the valves properly in a four-cycle motor is an important matter. The exhaust valve should open at about five-sixths of the completion of the power stroke and should close at the end of the idle or scavenging stroke. At the commencement of the next outward, or suction, stroke the inlet valve should begin to open, and both valves should be firmly closed at the moment the piston commences to travel back on the compression stroke. Different motors vary somewhat as to the exact time when valves open and close, but the above is about the average and the finer adjustments can be readily made by set-screws or other devices provided until the best results are obtained.

A gasolene motor should be cared for as carefully as any other piece of fine machinery, and because it uses oil and grease and becomes dirty in use it is no reason why it should be neglected and not cleaned and groomed frequently. A rusty, dirty, or neglected engine is a disgrace to the operator and shows lack of common sense or care. Oil cups and oilers, as well as grease cups should be kept well filled and all excess oil or grease carefully wiped off. If grease and oil accumulates or sticks on, it should be removed by kerosene and gasolene. All unpainted parts should be kept clean and free from rust and well oiled, and all nickel or brass work should be kept brightly polished. If you cannot spare the time to polish and clean your brass it is better to paint it at once and avoid horrid green verdigris. A vehicle motor requires as much care as any other, and because it is