flounce of black lace, surmounted by bugle orna- silk. La Pompadour, for evening dress only, is a ments, and made with a flat Capuchon correspond-new version of the Fontange, striped in imitation of ing, but bordered with a narrow lace, is one of the ribbons, alternately plain and broché: as the patterns most elegant half-dress pardessus. of the last are new, and very rich, the effect is novel Fashionable furs are the martre zibelene (Siberian and striking. The Brocatelle, à reps ground, with sable). It is the finest kind of sable, and is now nearly bouquets of satin in relief, recals the days of Louis the most expensive fur. Ermine, elegant as it is, is not XV.; but though equally rich, it is in much better dear. Canadian sable comes next. Trimmings for taste-the patterns and colours less glaring, and mantles, &c., &c., will, for promenade dress, be sable more elegant. The Victoria is for evening dress of either kind. Ermine can be worn only in carriage-only; it is moir: antique, splendidly broché, in light dress, or for the garniture of evening-wraps; but we colour. have reason to believe that, as the scason advances, both sable and ermine will be employed for trimming robes. Grébe, which has during some seasons past been in and out of favour, is expected to be employed for the trimmings of evening pardessus. Muffs will De very fashionable; they are of a moderate size. The only cheap fur-that is, comparatively cheapthat is likely to be employed for trimmings, is the Vison d'Amerique; it has some resemblance to the martre de Canada, and is a very serviceable fur. It is known in England by the name of Mink.

There is no actual change to notice in the forms of robes; but it is expected that, as the season advances, those for evening will be made with demi-trains; and that skirts will continue of the present width. Corsages, whether in half or evening-dress, will be lengthened as much as possible in the waist; but it does not appear that any alteration will take place in the forms of those in half-dress. The corsages are generally in the Louis Quinze form. Fashionable colours are claret, dark green, violet, deep blue, purple, and several shades of deep red; black is also a good deal seen, both in promenade and half-dress. Light hues are most in favour for coiffures in the latter; they are also partially adopted for robes.

FIRST PLATE.

Valencia de laine, and popeline de laine, have replaced merinos in plain morning or promenadedress; these materials are simply trimmed with black velvet, for they are not sufficiently rich to be worn with a gilet. I must observe that gilets have lost nothing of their vogue; on the contrary, it is augmented: they are now of two kinds-simple and DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. rich the first may be of black velvet embroidered with soutaches and closed with jet buttons, or of straw-coloured cashmere embroidered in strawcoloured silk, and closed by buttons of passementerie. A third sort, though more dressy, is still a gilet simple; it is of piqué blanc, with an embroidery in oak leaves and rose-buds. The others are made in velours épinglé, satin, moire, and gros de Tours; they are embroidered in small beads, bugles, silks, with sometimes a mixture of gold or silver thread. Gilets are made either mounting to the throat, or open en cœur; the rich ones are generally of the latter sort, to display the embroidered or lace chemisette.

It is supposed that the robes à dispositions, so fashionable last summer, will be brought forward in other materials this winter. I think their general success is very doubtful; but it is yet too soon to decide. Those called Albanaise are the most likely to be fashionable; they have grounds of one colour only, trimmed with three or five flounces of the same material, but bordered with stripes of a striking and strongly-contrasted colour. The same stripes also encircle the basquines, sleeves, and corsages. These robes have appeared in poplins, cashmeres, and different kinds of silk. Some with velvet stripes are very rich. They are made in inferior materials; but those will certainly not be adopted by the élite of fashion. A good many redingotes have the front of the skirt decorated with them, as well as the corsage and sleeves.

EVENING DRESS.-Robe of one of the new winter silks, a white ground, with a running pattern in blue flowers; gerbes of larger flowers, in a deeper shade of blue, encircle the bottom of the skirt, mounting high-particularly at the sides. Corsage Pompadour, eut very low round the top, long in the waist, and terminated by a deep, sharp point. Short tight sleeve, finished by two falls of Chantilly lace; the berthe is a double fall of the same. Blue ribbon breast-knot; it is of the papillon form, with a brilliant ornament in the centre. Head-dress of hair, arranged à la Sevigné in small curls over the forehead, a profusion of long ringlets at the sides, and a twisted band crowning the summit of the head.

SECOND PLATE.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS. Robe of soie broché, a red lilac ground, figured in black; corsage Amazone. Demi-pagoda sleeves, a threequarter length; they are terminated by a volant; embroidered muslin collar and ruffles. Green velvet pelisse, lined with silk of the same hue. The corsage, close fitting, very long in the waist, and with a small falling collar, is embroidered in relief with soie torse of a lighter shade. The embroidery extends on the front of the corsage in the form of a

Several new silks have appeared, both for demi-heart; it descends in the robing style down the toilette and evening-dress; the reps Ceres is one that may be worn in both, according to the colours. The ground for the first must be sombre-as deep blue, dark red, &c., &c., strewed with black velvet flowers in relief: the effect is extremely rich, but rather heavy. It is equally rich, for the evening silks, in light green, azure blue, and rose. The Lampas, for dinner robes, has two shades of one colour in the ground, with large bouquets of a different hue. Pompadour Pekin is striped, in stripes of equal breadth: one is marron satine; the other forms a wreath of roses; it is a social party

fronts of the skirt, and turns in a broad border round the bottom, which is terminated by a deep and very rich fringe. Pagoda sleeves, of moderate size, also embroidered. White velours épinglé chapeau, moderately open shape; the brim, bordered with grey lilac ribbon and lined with white satin, is trimmed in the interior, at the sides, with green velvet leaves embedded in the folds of the lining, and on the exterior with bands of grey lilac ribbon drawn full, and a white flower, with a tuft of foliage on each side; grey lilac brides.

HOME DRESS.-Rose-coloured satin chapeau,

very full trimmed on the exterior and interior of the brim with ribbon to correspond. Grey cloth robe; a high corsage, opening on the bosom with a short lappel lined with black: it closes from the lappel to the bottom of the waist, terminating in a cleft basquine, the ends of which, also lined with black, are turned up in front and attached by a fancy silk button. The front of the corsage is ornamented in the stomacher style by bands of narrow black velvet ribbon; others much broader are disposed on the front of the skirt, in the form of a broken cone. Sleeves a three-quarter length, over muslin ones; they are moderately wide at the bottom, with cuffs turning up rather high, and bordered with black velvet. Embroidered muslin collar.

EXERCISE.

Exercise should vary according to age. Nature announces to us, by the extreme restlessness of the infant, the pressing necessity of its organization for active exercise. In spontaneous motions, we see very young children indulge, with a kind of joy, whenever they are for an instant freed from their clothes. This is the exercise suited to their age; and it is far more salutary for them than all the motions communicated by the nurses who toss them about.

This being equally applicable to infants of both sexes, it may be added that the child should be taken out often, especially if brought up in town-but should not be kept seated on one forearm. This manner of carrying is, even in infancy, one of the causes of deviations of the vertebral column, which is still in a cartilaginous state. The mother or nurse should carry the infant on both her arms, in a half reclining position, that she may give equal support to all its parts. Neither should she leave the head, which is so large in proportion to the rest of the body, to its own weight.

Above all things, it is necessary to observe that it is the movements that infants make of their own accord which are most useful to them, because the quickness of their actions should follow the vivacity of their sensations.

It is the liberty of running about granted to children in the country, which, in a great measure, produces that strong constitution which distinguishes them from children in towns.

In youth, active exercises are useful, in drawing into the limbs those vivifying juices which frequently direct themselves with too much activity towards the organs of respiration. Temperament requires to be studied in the

selection of exercises.

An individual possessed of a sanguine temperament should constantly use active exercises. If sanguification or the formation of blood be very active, they may be carried so far as to produce perspiration. It is the best means of dissipating, to the advantage of the nutrition of the muscles, the excess of plethora and superabundance of juices which torment persons of this temperament.

exercises that require great efforts, on account of Such persons ought, however, to abstain from their predisposition to aneurisms, hemorrhages, and cerebral effusions and compressions.

Passive exercises, or those methods that gently strengthen the fibres without causing any corresponding loss, and thus induce plethora, would be unsuitable to sanguine persons disposed to hemorrhage.

Active exercises suit individuals of a lymphatic temperament, naturally dull, slow, and indolent. The ancients remarked the good effects of exercise upon girls of weak constitutions, of soft and lax texture, subject to languid maladies; and they accordingly applied exercise in the cure of many diseases that baffled the skill of the physician. The moderns have profited by their observations, and made new ones of similar tendency.

It would, however, be imprudent to subject suddenly to violent exercise young girls of feeble constitution, with soft skin, pale complexion, and light hair, which are proofs of weakness.

In persons also with soft fibres, whose narrow and feeble vessels are plunged in fat, exercise must be very moderate, in order not radically to wear out muscular forces deprived of primitive energy. If it is very violent, or is continued too long, it may then sometimes occasion adipose inflammations of the viscera.

To remedy this languishing state, their fibres should first be braced by passive exercises frequently repeated, commencing by those which are extremely gentle. Exercise in the open air, such as carriage-riding, is particularly useful to girls of this constitution. The force and resistance of the fibres will augment in proportion as the fatty and serous plethora dissipates itself.

A nervous temperament promises superiority of the mental faculties, but it may become the source of great evils if we do not diminish that exquisite susceptibility which sooner or later would produce them.

The general effect of exercise is to strengthen the body and counteract the early predisposition indeed, requires continual exercise. In it, there to a nervous temperament. This temperament, is no danger that in strengthening the body, we may injure those faculties that seem to arise from a nervous temperament. With such constitution, no one can ever become an athlete, which, as we know, is converting mind into brute force. Nervous girls, then, should be strengthened; it will prevent them becoming invalids—it is certain they will remain clever.—American Magazine.

END OF VOL. XXXV.

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