of Bedford, in the parish of Aspley, which adjoins that of Wandon; but this has been disused for upwards of a century. It has large trees growing in it, and is now become the secure residence of the cunning fox, who in its mazy and intricate recesses finds a safe retreat.

"From the surface, for about six yards depth, there are several layers of sands; all reddish, but some lighter coloured than others, under which there is a thin stratum of red sand-stone, which they break through; and then, for the depth of seven or eight yards more, there is sand again, after that they come to the fuller's earth; the upper layer of which, being about a foot deep, they call the cledge; and this is by the diggers thrown by as useless, by reason of its too great mixture with the neighbouring sand, which covers, and has insinuated itself among it; after which they dig up the earth for use, to the depth of about eight feet more, the matter whereof is distinguished into several layers, there being commonly about a foot and a half between one horizontal fissure and another. Of these layers of fuller's earth, the upper half, where the earth breaks itself, is tinged red; as it seems by the running of the water from the sandy strata above; and the part they call the crop, betwixt which and the cledge above-mentioned is a thin layer of matter, not an inch in depth, in taste, colour, and consistency, not unlike to Terra Japonica. The lower half of the fuller's earth they call the wall earth; this is untinged with that red above-mentioned, and seems to be the more pure and fitter for fulling; and underneath all is a stratum of white rough stone, of about two foot thick, which, if they dig through, as they very seldom do, they find sand again, and there is an end of their works.

"One thing is observable in the site of this earth, which is, that it seems to have every where a pretty equal horizontal level; because they say, that when

the

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS 23 the sand ridges at the surface are higher, the fuller's earth lies proportionably deeper.

"The perpendicular fissures are frequent, and the earth in the strata, besides its apparent distinction into layers, like all other kinds of matter, by reason of its peculiar unctuousness, or the running of the adjacent sand imperceptibly among it, breaks itself into pieces of all angles and sizes.

"Fullers earth, is a thing of great service and importance; one main property of it is to imbibe oil, grease, and other like unctuous matter; it is that property that renders this earth so useful in the cleansing woollen cloth. Every body conversant in rural affairs, must needs know how frequently tar is of necessity employed, as also grease and tallow, in the external affections and diseases of sheep; and besides, their wool cannot be worked, spun or wove into cloth, unless it be well oiled and greased; all which unctuous matter must be taken forth again out of the cloth before it can be worn; nor is any thing yet known so serviceable to that purpose as this earth; and as the fuller's earth of England is got in great plenty, so it very much exceeds any yet discovered abroad in goodness, which indeed is one great reason why the English surpass all other nations in the woollen manufacture; and to preserve the benefit of this to the country, and secure it from the usurpation of foreigners, the exportation of English fuller's earth is strictly prohibited by act of parlia

ment."

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS.

The county of Bedford is divided into the nine following hundreds: viz. Manshead, Fit, Willey. Wixamtree, Stodden, Barford, Biggleswade, Clifton, and Redburnstoke. These hundreds contain nine market towns: Ampthill, Bedford, Biggleswade, Dunstable, Harold, Leighton Buzzard, Luton, Potton, and Woburn.

Bedfordshire is in the diocese of Lincoln, and is

under

under the jurisdiction of an archdeacon, and is divided into six deaneries: viz: Bedford, Clopham, Dunstable, Eaton, Fleete, and Shefford, containing 121 parishes.

TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF

BEDFORDSHIRE.

Journey from Higham Ferrers to Hitchen; through Bedford.

We enter the county of Bedford, near Wimmington, about three miles south-east from Higham Ferrers. On the right of our road is the village of WIMMINGTON, in the hundred of Willey, and deanery of Clopham. The manor belonged to Alured de Lincoln, whose descendants continued to hold it for a considerable time. In the year 1713 it became the property of Major General Livesey, and is now in severalties amongst his representatives.

The parish Church is a very elegant Gothic structure, founded by John Curteys, who was lord of the manor, and mayor of the staple at Calais, in the fourteenth century. It appears from the inscription on his toaib, that he died in the year 1301. The brasses for himself and his lady are in good preservation. They are fixed on a slab of black marble, under Gothic canopies. There are also in the chancel brasses of Sir Thomas Bromflete, cup-bearer to Henry V. who died in 1430, and his wife Margaret daughter of Sir Edward St. John, and heiress of the Lord of Vesci.

According to the returns made to parliament, under the population act, in 1801, the parish then contained 36 houses, and 226 inhabitants.

Puddington, the aljoining parish, anciently belonged to Reginald Damartin, Earl of Boloigne, from whose heirs it was taken by King Henry III. in 1227, and granted to Isolda de Dover, till such time as the king should think fit to restore it. The manor at present belongs to Richard Orlebar, Esq.

whose

whose seat, HINWICK HOUSE, is situated in this pa rish, and was erected in the year 1710. The site of the ancient manor-house, which appears to have been castellated, is at present occupied as a farm.

HINWICK HALL, at a short distance from Mr. Orlebar's was formerly the seat of General Livesay, who died in 1717, and lies buried in Puddington Church. It is now the residence of Mr. Wagstaff, a descendant, in the female line, from General Livesay's brother. In the library at the house there is a Cartulary of the priory of canons at Ashby.

In the parish Church there are several handsome monuments; among which is that of General Livesay above-mentioned.

The whole of this parish is inclosed, and according to the returns under the population act in 1801, then contained 70 houses and 415 inhabitants.

The small parish of FARNDISH adjoining Pudding ton on the west, has nothing particularly interesting. It is inclosed, and is computed to contain about 672

acres.

The parish Church of SOULDROP, the next village we pass through, is a modern edifice, having been lately rebuilt, except the spire, which being situated on high ground, is seen at a considerable distance.

The village of MELCHBORN, about two miles, to the left of our road, in the hundred of Stoddon and deanery of Eaton, situated near the borders of Northamptonshire, had formerly a market on Friday, and a fair upon the feast of Saint Mary Magdalen, which were granted to the knight's hospitallers in the year 1264.

66

Leland, who was a native of Melchborn, speaks of the preceptory here as a right fair place, of square stones standing much upon pilfered vaulters of stone, with goodly gardens, orchards, and ponds, and a parke thereby." According to him the preceptory was an ancient structure; but he says that the hall was built by Sir William Weston, the last C

prior

prior of the knight's hospitallers. Upon the Disso lution the preceptory was valued at 2411. 9s. 104d.” per annum, and in 1558, granted by Queen Elizabeth to the first earl of Bedford.

The present mansion-house appears to have been erected during the reign of King James or Charles I. The front has been modernised. It has been for many years the seat of the noble family of St. John, and since they left Bletsoe, their chief residence, the gardens have been very much improved by the present Lord St. John, who has erected several hot-houses and conservatories for the culture of exotics.

The parish Church, which was modernised and fitted up by the late Mr. Whitbread, contains several ancient monuments. Among others a brass plate in memory of Robert Pavely, Esq. who died in 1377. Lord St. John presented an organ to the parish for the church in 1800, and is at the expence of maintaining an organist.

About two miles on the right of our road, is the village of SHARNBROOK, in the hundred of Willey and deanery of Clopham. The parish Church is a handsome Gothic structure with a spire. It contains several monuments in memory of the families of Botelet, and Antonie, lords of the manor.

COLESWORTH HOUSE, in this parish, the seat of William Lee Antonie, Esq. M. P. was principally built by John Antonie, Esq. chief clerk of the court of King's Bench, The wings were added by Mr. Lee, during his son's minority. It is now one of the most elegant mansions in the county.

The village of ODELL, about two miles west from Sharnbrook, situated in the hundred of Willey, and deanery of Clopham, about ten miles north-west from Bedford, on the borders of Northamptonshire, was anciently a market town. The charter for its market, to be held on Thursdays, was granted to William Fitzwarren, the lord of the manor, in 1222.