DESERT OF PINCHINCHA.

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the rock. During this time, little, comparatively, was done, for when it was fair, and the weather clear, the other mountains, on whose summits the signals were erected that formed triangles for measuring the degree of the meridian, were hid in clouds. When, on the contrary, it was reasonable to suppose that they were clear, Pinchincha was hidden from the sight. It was, therefore, necessary to descend lower, and to erect signals in more favourable situations. This, however, did not lessen either the cold or the fatigue to which the party was subjected, for though they descended from the summit of the rock, the places where they made their observations, were still on the highest parts of the vast desert.

In all their stations, subsequent to that on Pinchincha, each company lodged in a field tent, which, though small, was less inconvenient than being crowded in one hut. Yet still the necessity for even greater exertion continued, the party being oftener obliged to clear away the snow; the weight of which would otherwise have demolished the covering. At first, they pitched these tents in the most sheltered places, but having resolved to use them as signals, they removed them to a more exposed situation, where the impetuosity of the wind was such as to tear up the piquets, and blow them down. Happily they had brought with them supernumerary tents, which, on more than one occasion, saved them from perishing. This occurred especially in the desert of Asuay. Three tents belonging to the company were pitched one after the other, and successively overturned by the fury of the wind. In this terrible

condition their only resource was to take shelter in a breach or chasm. The two companies were both at that time on the desert, so that the sufferings of both were equal. The Indians who attended them, frequently deserted; and thus were they as often obliged to perform everything themselves, till relieved by others, who were sent from a distance.

While thus labouring under a variety of difficulties from wind and snow, from frost and cold, forsaken by the Indians, with little or no provisions, and a scarcity of fuel, fervent prayers were offered for their preservation in Channan, at the foot of the Cordilleras, for the inhabitants feared that they must inevitably perish; and when, at length, the whole company passed safely through the town, the people ran out of their houses, with expressions of the most cordial delight.

It was at first determined to erect signals of wood, in the form of pyramids, but this intention was soon abandoned. Signals, indeed, of any kind, were either blown down by the wind, or carried away by the Indians who tended their cattle on the sides of the mountain. It was, therefore, determined to make the tents in which they lodged serve as signals.

Thus resolved, the astronomers, on descending from the summit of Pinchincha, entered upon that stern, and dangerous life, which continued for nearly two years. During that time, they successively occupied sixty-five stations in the most desert places. In each, the inconveniences were the same, but they became less harassing in proportion as their bodies were inured to fatigue, and naturalized to the cold

EFFECTS OF CONTRAST.

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of those high regions: so that, at length, they were reconciled to continual solitude and hard living. Even the diversity of temperature did not affect them, when they descended from the frost-bound regions, into plains and valleys, where the heat though moderate, often seems intense to those unaccustomed to the change. Lastly, they encountered without fear the dangers that are unavoidable among precipices, and in untrodden deserts. The little cabins of the Indians, and the stalls for cattle, scattered on the skirts of the mountains, and where they used to lodge in their passage from one desert to another, were to them as spacious palaces; mean villages seemed like splendid cities, and the conversation of a priest and two or three of his companions, charmed them like the banquets of Xenophon; the little markets too, held in the towns through which they happened to pass, seemed to them as if filled with all the variety of Seville fair. Thus the least object became magnified, when they descended from their places of exile, which often continued for fifty days; and it must be owned, that at times the sufferings of these enterprising men were such, that nothing could have supported and encouraged them to persevere, but the high sense of honour and integrity which equally induced both companies not to leave imperfect a work so long desired by all Europe, and especially by the sovereigns who then filled the Spanish throne.

No less than thirty-five signals were erected by Ulloa and Condamine; thirty-two by Godin and Juan. Some of these were in deserts, far above those belts of vegetation, which diversify the sides

of the mountains; in places too, where they had to contend with furious winds, and extreme cold. One of these stations may be briefly noticed in connexion with the history of animals, because every living creature instinctively avoids it, nor could the mules, those hardy animals, which carry heavy burdens in the most rigorous mountain passes, be kept together by the Indians; so that they were obliged to go with them in quest of a milder air. This was the desert of Pucaquaico, beside the mountain Cotopaxi. There the fury of the winds, and the whirlwinds of snow and hail were so tremendous, that, to use the language of Ulloa, they seemed endeavouring to tear up that dreadful volcano by the roots. Often too, and that in the midst of ice and snow, did their tents rock from side to side, from the effect of earthquakes, which reached for leagues around.

Return we now to speak of a class of animals which are pleasingly associated with ancient ruins, and the wildest solitude. This is the tribe of bats. Several distinct species are peculiar to the new world, and among these we recognise as some of the most conspicuous, the Javalin and Spectre bats (phyllostoma hastatum: p. spectrum). They are accused of destroying men and cattle, by sucking their blood; but the truth, says Cuvier, appears to be, that they only inflict small wounds, which occasionally become inflamed from the heat of the climate. Don Felix d'Azzara relates, that he was often bitten by them, while sleeping in the woods; the injury was, however, trifling, and occasioned

only a slight inconvenience. Wrapped in dusky coloured mantles, and flying solitarily, and at night, their appearance is gloomy; even their faces seem full of thought, and seem to express aversion to society; hence some imagine that they must necessarily be ferocious. But such is not the case: they are generally quiet and contented creatures, flitting about by moonlight, and living on small insects. When these are plentiful, they seek for no other food, and they will never attack large animals, unless urged by extreme necessity.

Waterton has preserved several interesting memoranda of their relatives, the Vampire bats, which infest the wilds and forests of Demerara. These creatures nestle in hollow trees, or clear out the inside of large ant-nests, and then take possession of them. When evening draws on, they leave their hiding places, to soar along the river banks in quest of prey; and he who sleeps soundly in his hammock, often finds on waking, that his foot is stained with blood. And not man alone, when insect food is scarce, but every unprotected animal is exposed in turn, to their depredations. Nay, so gently do they supply their wants, that instead of being roused, the patient is lulled into a still profounder sleep. Yet Vampires do not always live on blood; when the moon shines bright, and the fruit of the Banana tree is ripe, you may see them approach and eat. Waterton noticed this fact during his abode in Mr. Edmonstone's deserted habitation at Meriba creek on the Demerara river; the house had been dismantled for some years, the roof had fallen in, and the room, where governors