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deprived the chiefs of a great part of their power, and it is hoped that civilization will soon follow.

JULY 20th. The morning being fine, and the sea tolerably calm, the boat came over from Gometra to convey us to Staffa. On going on board, we witnessed another proof of Mrs. Maclean's goodness, for we found wine for ourselves, and spirits for the boatmen, with a plentiful supply of provisions for us all. We left Mull about eleven o'clock, and it being perfectly calm, our rowers were obliged to exercise their oars, and soon brought us through the sound of Gometra, or the narrow passage between Gometra and Ulva, two islands lying in the mouth of Loch-nagall, the latter of which is of considerable size. This channel is so shallow, that a boat can only get through it at high water. As soon as we had passed this sound, we saw Staffa* about ten miles distant, presenting nothing particularly striking in its appearance, seeming only at this distance an abrupt rock, flat at the top, but whose sides descend perpendicularly into the ocean. The day continued very fine, but as a light breeze had sprung up, the sail was hoisted, and we steered for the island. When we were at the distance of about three miles, we heard what we supposed to be the report of guns, which were repeated at regular intervals, perhaps every half minute; the sound appeared to come from no great distance, and as we supposed it to proceed

* The name Staffa appears to be Norwegian, being derived from Staff, a prop or support, or figuratively a column; a name very properly applied to this island. -PENNANT.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE

from some vessels either firing guns of distress, or engaged with each other, we were anxious to reach the island, that we might have a view of them: but when we turned the northern point, we perceived the cause of these sounds. In the rock on the north side of Staffa, was a cavity resembling an immense mortar, and though there was not much wind, yet the waves, which had been raised into mountains by the violence of the preceding tempest, were still very high, and broke with violence against the island. Whenever a wave came against this part of the rock, by its irresistible force it condensed the air in the cavity, and more than half filled it with water; but when the force of the wave was exhausted, and its immense pressure removed, the spring of the condensed air forced out the water in the form of a fine white froth, like smoke, accompanied with a report similar to the firing of cannon.

As we proceeded along the western coast of the island, the basaltic pillars were very evident, though in many places irregular, and reaching only half way down the rock, which, together with the pillars, was of a dark colour inclining to black. In other places they proceeded from the water upwards, and were abruptly terminated or broken. As we turned the southern point, they became vastly more regular, and the view of this side of the island was grand beyond conception: it appeared like the end of an immense cathedral, whose massy roof was supported by stupendous pillars, formed with all the regularity of art: at the bottom appeared the ends of broken pillars standing

COAST OF STAFFA.

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upright, and forming an extensive causeway. On the top of the island, above these ranges of columns, the green turf was often interrupted by lesser pillars, inclined in almost every direction, but generally dipping towards the west, forming an angle of about 30° with the horizon. The large pillars were of a dark purple hue inclining to black, but in many places richly coloured with light green, yellow, and orange. This rich variety of colour, which added greatly to the beauty of the magnificent scene, was produced by different species of lichen growing upon the stone, The pillars stand upon a base of gravelly lava, of a light brown colour, without any regularity in its form; this bed slopes gradually from the bases of the columns into the sea.

PROCEEDING still farther along the same side of the island, we had a view of Fingal's cave, one of the most magnificent sights the eye ever beheld. It appears like the inside of a cathedral of immense size, but superior to any work of art in grandeur and sublimity, and equal, to any in regularity.

REGULARITY is the only part in which Art pretends to excel Nature, but here Nature has shown, that when she pleases, she can set man at nought even in this respect, and make him sensible of his own littleness. Her works are in general distinguished by a grand sublimity, in which she disdains the similar position of parts, called by mankind regularity, but which, in fact may be another name for narrowness of conception, and poverty of idea; but here, in a playful mood, she has produced a