realized to my fancy the splendour of Oriental magnificence. Roundthe foot of the rising ground where I stood rolled the Nith, now dashing his foaming waters over a caul thrown quite across the channel, then swell ing with tremendous roaring against the sides of the Dock, and afterwards pursuing his course towards the ocean in deep and sullen majesty. Beneath me, on the other side, stretched Lochar Moss, covered with water in many places, so as to resemble what it is said once to have been an arm of the sea, interspersed with number less little islands. Beyond it a range of hills arises with a very gentle acclivity, which, being cultivated at first, become gradually more wild as they extend towards the northwest, almost in a semicircular direction, till they end in a bold rocky precipice crowned with wood, about eight miles above the town, and within a few hundred yards of the bed of the Nith. On the left you see Criffle raising his lofty summit far above the Frith and the surrounding country, and extending his giant arms in the form of a chain of mountains bearing away toward the west, and soon losing themselves in the distance, or by the intervention of another range of hills for the most part green, or covered with plantations, which also, in a semicircular direction, stretch towards the north, and terminate within a short distance of the precipice already mentioned. In this way is formed a most spacious natural amphitheatre, intersected by the Nith, which issuing from between the precipice and the termination of the western range of hills, can be traced in all its windings downwards, till it discharges itself into the Solway. The country on its banks has all that richness of appearance which numerous countryseats, mostly embosomed in wood, several villages, and the highest state of cultivation, can bestow.

It was nearly mid-day when I reached Caerlaverock, where there is a ruinous castle, which, however, I shall not describe, as you have only to consult one of the numerous volumes of tours you have always at command. It was in vain that I enquired for the river in which Lattimer is said to have angled. I was

told that there is not a fishing-stream within many miles, except the Lochar, the greater part of whose course is through the moss, and withal so level, that it only falls thirteen feet in eleven miles. Of course, then, the scenery about the Quaker's house is as much the creation of the author's imagination as honest broad-brim himself. I cannot say but I was a good deal disappointed at this information, and the conclusion I was forced to draw from it, as I had promised my eyes as rich a treat in viewing the scenery described in Redgauntlet, as my fancy had received from the description.

The author has been more faithful to localities in the mention of Solway Lochs, as that name is really applied to the pools of water left in the bed of the Frith after the recess of the tide. I had the good fortune to forgather, as we Scots say, with a fisherman, from whom I received a long detail concerning the fishers in the Solway for the last forty years, but the twentieth part of which I cannot recollect. He has no remembrance of ever having seen fish speared by men on horseback, but has often assisted in killing them on foot. It was done by means of a leister, or three-forked harpoon, fastened to a long pole, and afforded excellent sport, but was both difficult and dangerous to those unaccustomed to it, and unacquainted with the quicksands. From the scarcity of fish, the exercise has of late years fallen almost into disuse. This scarcity he had no difficulty in ascribing to the introduction and use of trap or stake-nets, which being erected across the creeks, and supplied with pockets to entrap the fish both in the flow and ebb of the tide, suffer none to escape but such as can make their way through the meshes of the net. In his youth, those most commonly used were halve, or hand and raise nets; the latter made to rise with the flow of the tide, to allow the fish, as they were ascending, to escape, and to fall with the ebb, so that those only which were on their way to the sea were caught; and he seemed to think, that till such time as the use of the trap-net was abolished, and these restored, plenty of fish could not again be expected

in the Solway. Formerly, also, the tenants of land derived considerable advantage from the privilege of fishing with certain descriptions of nets, in those parts of the Frith belonging to their landlords; a privilege, how ever, which is now of little service, as scarcely any fish remain to be caught. From the same cause, channel-fishing, which is free to every person, and which was once of great benefit to the lower classes, has become of no value. For all these reasons, trap, or stake-nets, are almost as universally condemned at this present time as they were in the days of the Laird of Solway Lochs; and had the Fishing-Bill, brought into Parliament by Mr Kennedy last session, and which was ordered to stand over to the next, been no otherwise objectionable, it would have been very unpopular in this quarter, as it provided for the continuance of these nets. But against this bill many equally strong objections have been raised. It has been complained, among other things, that the arrange ments which it would make with regard to close-time are most injudicious, and could not be carried in to effect without manifest injustice to the proprietors of fresh-water fishings; and that it would, in a great measure, put a stop to the white-fish and flounder fisheries, which, for many years, have been of infinitely greater importance to the community than that of salmon. I was given to understand, that it is in agitation among those concerned, to present a petition to Parliament, remonstrating against the injustice and inadequacy of the Bill, pointing out the bad effects that must evidently result from it, and earnestly entreating that it may not be suffered to pass into a law.

To return to Redgauntlet. From what I learned of the traditions of the country, as I passed along, I strongly suspect that Wandering Willie's Tale is a compound of the absurd traditions concerning the Lairds of Lag and Coul. The former, who lived within eight miles of Dumfries, was a noted persecutor, and is said by the common people, among whom his memory is still held in the greatest detestation, to have been 36 tormented before his death, that

VOL. XVIII.

the insertion of his feet among cold water actually made it boil. The latter, also a gentleman of this district, having died intestate, some of his relations forged a will after his death, to the prejudice of the rightful heir, and putting a pen into the hand of the corpse, affixed his signature to it in presence of his serving-man, who swore that he saw his late master sign the will. This, it seems, was enough to disturb the dead man in his grave; he therefore arose, and not only appeared to multitudes, riding on a black horse, sometimes attended by a whole host of spirits in human shape, but conversed with many, and expressed his determination to traverse the country till he could wreak his vengeance on the perjured servant. This he is really said to have done on the sands of Dumfries, before many hundred witnesses, by dashing out his brains; after which he disappeared, and was

never more seen.

It was nearly dark when I arrived at Annan, which is an exceedingly neat little town, and has, I understand, made more improvement of late years than perhaps any Royal Burgh in his Majesty's dominions. It is delightfully situated, about a mile from the Frith, on the right bank of the river Annan, a dark and deep-flowing stream, and navigable by ships of small burden, till within a few hundred yards of the town. Forty years ago there were not above three small vessels trading to Liverpool belonging to the port, and now there are upwards of thirty. A weekly market, held on Thursday, was also established some years ago, in which, during the proper season, a good deal of business is done in grain and pork, for exportation. The latter commodity is bought and salted, and dried by bacon-dealers in the neighbourhood, who dispose of it at Newcastle, and other towns in England, and sometimes ship it to Ireland. Of course, swine-feeding is a principal part of a farmer's occupation in Annandale, and many of them, by feeding and curing together, have realized considerable fortunes.

I have lodged since I came here at the Blue Bell, which, besides being a neat, clean-looking inn, had an additional recommendation, in my F

eyes, in being the place where most of the irregular marriages are celebrated; Mr Hope, the landlord, being the magistrate who most commonly officiates on these occasions. The trade was so brisk at one time, that occasionally upwards of twenty pair in a week were married; but, since the repeal of the Marriage Act in England, it has become much slacker. Still, however, five or six couple are generally noosed every week, and never fewer than two or three. The ceremony is very short and simple, and the cost seldom above half-a-guinea. The parties merely declare before the magistrate, that they have been irregularly married, for which he fines them in terms of a Scotch Act of Parliament. He then gives them a certificate of their declaration of irregular marriage, and of their payment of the fine; and this, it would appear, is a sufficiently valid contract in the eyes of the law, though its validity is not recognised by the church. The late clergyman of the parish, however, when requested, was sometimes accommodating enough to attend with his session-clerk and an elder, and, on the parties presenting him with an attestation, that before this irregular marriage they were single persons, to hold a session, censure them for their irregularity, and admit them to the use of Christian privileges. This last circumstance had almost annihilated the Gretna Green trade, as the priest of Hymen at that place had no such power, and few were, for some time, "made one flesh" by him, save those who were not aware of the higher privileges of an Annan marriage, or who, coming from England, had not time to push on to the Burgh, for fear of being overtaken and "put asunder" by some tyrant of a parent or guardian. Such improper conduct on the part of the clergyman, as well as the facility of the magistrates in yielding to every application for marriage, drew forth, from the Lord Justice Clerk, some very severe reflections, in the case of a man who was indicted about two years ago for bigamy; reflections, however, which produced no effect, the latter sheltering themselves under some old Scotch Statute, and the former, perhaps, not consi

dering himself amenable to his Lordship's tribunal. In this stage of the business the Presbytery are said to have interfered; and, though they did not publicly censure their brother, are understood to have expressed their decided disapprobation of his conduct, and to have restricted him from marrying any who did not belong to his own particular jurisdiction, unless they brought a certificate from the minister of their own parish. But the present incumbent being a man of steadier principle, and more clerical in his habits, refuses to marry any who have not been regularly proclaimed in the church; the consequence of which, and of the establishment of a splendid new inn at Gretna Green, has been the revival of business at that place.

The general aspect of Annandale scenery is bleak and barren: but, as if to relieve the eye, we occasionally meet with extensive views of the Solway Frith and the county of Cumberland, and sequestered spots of uncommon beauty. Little vallies of rich holm land, surrounded entirely with wood, unless where openings have been left to admit and discharge the waters that glide through them, are to be seen at almost every turn→ ing of some of the rivers. In one of these, on the banks of the Annan, and about three miles above the town, stands the village of Brydekirk, concerning a former laird of which I learned the following traditions:-He lived at the time of the rebellion in 1745, and, in many points of his character, seems to have resembled the Laird of Solway Lochs, with the exception that he was as staunch a Whig as the Laird was an incorruptible Jacobite. On the day that the Highland army crossed the Border, on their return from their "ill-starred" expedition, this same Laird of Brydekirk, in company with Sir Patrick Maxwell of Springkell, and many others, was attending a funeral to Gretna churchyard. At the approach of the Highlanders, the whole company fled, except Brydekirk, who not only stood, but as soon as they came within reach, fired his pistols and killed two men. After a desperate resistance he was taken and carried before the Prince, who, on being informed of the circum

stances, demanded his reasons for such mad conduct. To this the Laird replied, that he was only performing the duty of a loyal subject, and that if he had only a pistol for every man in the army, he would teach them the consequences of rebelling against their lawful sovereign. For this answer he was detained a prisoner; and the army had reached Glasgow, before the Prince, through the intercession of Lady Ogilvie, to whom Brydekirk's wife was related, could be prevailed upon to liberate him.

While I am on this subject, I may mention that I was in an old house, in the same parish of Gretna, in which the Prince and his staff took up their quarters till the army stop ped for rest and refreshment. They had rested but a short time, when a rumour was spread that the English were close upon their rear. The march was immediately resumed, and in the hurry and confusion Lady Ogilvie's purse was left behind. When it was missed, a messenger was sent back for it; but it was nowhere to be found and it was observed, that the inhabitants of the house, the last of whom died only a few years ago, instead of being very poor, became, if not rich, at least very comfortable.

But the most beautiful scenery in this quarter is on the banks of the Kirtle. This small stream falls into the Frith at a short distance from Gretna Green, and waters a country of considerable importance in the history of the Western Border. Its banks were inhabited by the Irvings, Bells, and some others of the most warlike border clans, who were constantly engaged in private feuds, or in wars with the English. Little castellated forts are therefore to be seen on every advantageous situation, but their history has been in a great measure lost.

Not far from Springkell, the seat of Sir J. H. Maxwell, is a small holm, such as I have described, nearly circular, and about a mile in circumference. It is skirted with wood, and watered by the Kirtle, which flows, or rather dashes along one side of it, over a very rocky bed. In the very centre of this holm stands the churchyard of Kirkcon

nel, where lie the bodies of Helen Irving and Adam Fleming, whose loves several have attempted to celebrate in verse, but with little success. It was a little before sunset when I visited this place; and what with the stillness of the evening, the sombre aspect of the scenery, the hollow murmurs of the stream, and that solemnity of feeling which a visit to a secluded churchyard always inspires, I was never in a fitter frame of mind to enjoy such a tale as the following:

During the time of the Border wars lived Helen, daughter of Irving of Kirkconnel, the most beautiful lady on the western marches, whose hand was sought in marriage by Bell of Middlebie and Fleming of Redhall. Fleming was the more favoured of the two, and therefore became an object of irreconcilable enmity to Bell, who sought an opportunity to kill him. While the lovers were one day walking on the banks of the Kirtle, they were discovered by Bell, as he was lurking among the trees on the opposite side. Mad with jealousy and rage, he fired on Fleming, but not before he had been seen, and his purpose observed by Helen. In the true spirit of sincere and romantic affection, she threw herself before her lover, and received into her own breast the bullet that was intended for his. Fleming instantly pursued Bell, and at one stroke severed his head from his body. When he had seen the remains of his mistress consigned to the dust, the better to divert his grief, he went abroad, and fought in some of the continental wars; probably in Spain, against the Moors. After the lapse of many years he returned, and expired on the grave of his beloved Helen. A large cross, now much dilapidated, marks the place where Helen was shot; and a rude stone, with a sword and musket, and the short inscription, "Hic jacet Joannes Fleming," engraved upon it, covers the "narrow house" of these faithful lovers.

About three miles belów Kirkconnel, at Cove, the residence of Mr Irving, the lineal descendant of the chieftains of that name, there is a remarkable artificial cave, which, in times of war, must have been an impregnable strong-hold. It is cut out

of a rock, the particular height of which is forty or fifty feet, and which stands at the foot of a little dell, environed with a very thick wood. The river takes a sweep round its base; and as the cave is at least twenty feet above the level of the water, and commands the whole extent of the valley, a single man might defend it against a host. The only way of approaching it, indeed, is by a flight of steps, cut out of the rock, and winding round one side of it, but which do not reach within several feet of the mouth of the cave. The entrance is made by means of a platform supported by two beams, which can be removed at pleasure. The door-way is only about four feet high, and three feet wide; but the cave widens as you enter, and is capable of containing thirty men. Tradition does not say by whom, or for what purpose it was made, but it was unquestionably a place of refuge to the Covenanters. On that part of the rock out of which the steps are cut is found the word Jeue, or Jehovah, rudely engraved in Hebrew characters.

Yesterday I paid a visit to the farfamed Gretna Green I have already mentioned that a splendid new inn has been established at this place, the landlord of which, Mr Liuton, is a jovial fellow, and exactly suited for such a situation. He shewed me the apartment where the ceremony is generally performed: it is rather an elegant room, and is furnished with a large sofa, and other necessary apparatus. For many years there was no inn at Gretna Green, and the marriages were therefore celebrated at Springfield, a village about half a mile farther east. But since the opening of this new establishment, the parties usually drive on to Gretna Hall, as the inn is called. Laing, one of the priests of Hymen, and who by way of emphasis is styled the Bishop, seems to have taken up his abode in Mr Linton's back-parlour, though his family resides at Springfield. I found him in that state which is best expressed by the Scotch phrase" roarin' fou," and consequently very communicative. He told me the number of lords, ladies, and persons of distinction, he had married, and said he could scarcely

go into a connty in England, Wales, or Ireland, where he would not find some person who had been before him. I asked which he liked best to marry-the English, Welch, or Irish. "O! the English to be sure," cried he; " your rich gentlemen from the South for me. They are the fellows Sir, for scattering the gold. Why, Sir, when the business was well and speedily done, I have seen them sometimes chuck me with a fiftypound bill in an afternoon." “If you are always so well paid as that,” said I," you might soon get rich, one would think." "Why, Sir, so I might," he returned; "but then I am not always so well paid. For one who gives me five pounds, I have two who think me well paid with five shillings. And besides, Sir," added he with rather a quizzical expression of countenance," I have the dignity of the priesthood to maintain.

The mitre should never be worn by one who is not as ready to give as to receive, to spend as to earn." "If I should come some morning with a lady," said I," to obtain a cast of your office, I suppose I will always find you here ?” "Generally," replied he, or at Springfield, which is quite at hand. The landlord always knows where I am to be found; but, if I should happen to be out of the way, my son can do the business as well as myself."" But," said 1, qualifying the observation, by handing him a glass of his favourite beverage, Shrub, which, indeed, is the only liquor he drinks, " I should think, in your present condition, you would scarcely be able to discharge your duty." "God bless you, Sir," exclaimed he, erecting his body in the chair, for he was nearly incapable of rising," that is all you know about it. I am quite sober just now, Sir, quite sober; I am never more so. But at any rate, Sir, that is a matter of no consequence. I have married hundreds, Sir, when I was as blind as a bat." "Perhaps," said I, "you will have no objections to let me hear how you proceed in these cases.' "When you come," replied he, rather evading than answering the question, "I will take care that you shall not be kept ten minutes, or if you are hard pursued, not quite so long."