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their conquests there; because, as it has something of shew and magis. terial, so it gaines them a boldnesse and an assurance, which easily introduces them without being taken notice of for strangers where they come; til by degrees they insinuate themselves into all ihose places where the Mode is takelit up, and so much in credit. I am of opinion that the Swisse had not been now a Nation, but for keeping to their prodigious Breeches----'
• Methinks a French Taylor with his ell in his hand, looks like the enchantress Circe over the companions of Ulysses, and changes them into as many formes : one while we are made to be loose in our clothes ...... and by and by, appear like so many Malefactors sew'd up in sacks, as of old they were wont to treat a Parricide, with a dog, an ape, and a serpent. Now we are all Twist, and at a distance look like a pair of Tongs, and anon stuff'd out behind like a Dutchman. This Gallant goes sv pinch'd in the Wast, as if he were prepar’d for the question of the Fiery Plate in Turky; and that so loose in the middle, as it be would turn Insect, or drop in two; now the short Wast and Skiris in Pye-court is the mode, then the Wide Hose, or (which is more shame. full) like Nero's lacernata Anica, the Man in coats again ; Monstrum geminum, de riro fæmina, mor de famina rir. So as one who should judge by the appearance, would take us all to be of kin to the fellow who begs without arms, or some great man's fools : Methinks we should learn to handle distaffe too; Hercules did so when he courted Omphale, and those who sacrificed to Ceres put on the petty-coat with much confidence. A man cannot say now, as when Lucian scoft’d at Cinicus, Quid tu tandem barbam quidem habes et comam, tunicam non habes? On the reverse, all men now wear coats, and no beards. O prodigious folly?
• I do assııre you I knew a French woman (famous for her dexterity and invention) protest, that the English did so torment her for the Mode, still jealous least she should not have brought them over the newest edition of it, that she us’d monthly to devise us new fancies of her own head, which were never worn in France, to pacifie her customers. But this was in the days of Old Noll that signal Vertumnus.'
* • We deride the Spaniard for his odd shape, not for his constancy in it. Let it be considered that those who seldom change the liode of their country, have as seldom alter'd their affections to the Prince. Laws are in credit as they are ancient; and the very alteration of elements, weather and dyet, are full of perill ; 'tis that renders is weak, old, sick, and at last destroyes us : so as 'twas not without ad. vice that the Lawes of Plato did descend to the care even of Habits in that his perfect Idea, allowing it only to Curtesans and Comedians to vary dresses, since 'twas but a kind of hypocrisie to be every day in a new shape and mascarad.'
The essay contains a patriotic recommendation of woollens instead of silk, made thin, light, and glossie for Summer, thick,
close, and more substantial for the Winter;' a dress infcrior
(le says) to no covering under Heaven.' - How glorious to
our Prince, when he should bebold all his subjects clad with
the production of his own Country!' And it closes with prescribing some other improvements in dress, which were afterwards brought in. That anti-picturesque appendage, the hat, does not escape the Satirist's remark.
The wisest and most healthy of the ancients went continually bareheaded ; so Masinissa, Cæsar, so Hannibal us’d to go: But when I must be cover'd, I infinitely prefer the Buchingamo or Montero lately reform'd, before any other whatever, because it is most manly, usefull and steady. I have heard say that when a Turk would execrate one that displeases him, he wishes him as unstable as a Christian's Hat; and in effect 'tis observed, that no man can so plant it on another man's head but the owner do's immediately alter it, nor is it ever certain. All that can be reply'd in its behalf is, that it shades the face : but so would a Tuft of Feathers in the Montero, which is light and serviceable when the sun is hot, and at other times ornamental.
We have left ourselves no room to notice, otherwise than very generally, the documents which form Part II. of the second Volume; but, indeed, their value and interest arise altogether from the illustrations they incidentally furnish of the history of that period ; and we could make no use of them without going very much into biographical details. They consist of a private correspondence between Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, beginning in the year 1641, when the King visited Scotland, and contiouing, at intervals, to the year 1648; a correspondence afterwards carried on by the same trusty secretary, with Charles II. and the Queen of Bohemia ; some unpublished letters to and from Sir Edward Hyde (afterwards earl of Clarendon) and Sir Rich. Browne; and some state papers elucidatory of the transactions of the period. Mr. Bray has taken considerable pains to render this portion of the volumes interesting, by illustrative notes, which display very extensive reading, and contain much acceptable information. The whole work, indeed, reflects the highest credit on the respectable Editor; and its value is much enhanced by the copious Indexes to the Diary and Letters, and to the Private Correspondence. There are some very good portraits,-Mr. Evelyn and his Lady, Sir Edward Nicholas, and Sir Richard Browne, besides some views and plans of the estates of the Evelyn family
Art. X. SELECT LITERARY INFORMATION.
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