observations on growing hardy varieties of roses in pots, so as to form very large plants. I must here caution the reader that occasional disappointment must be expected in growing them in pots for exhibition, as roses, like facts, are stubborn things, and will often, in summer, bloom just whenever it pleases them to do so, not being easily retarded or forced: now, as days of exhibition are usually fixed before it is known whether we are to have an early or a late season, it is frequently a complete lottery whether any particular plants of roses will be in bloom or not. I have sometimes known on days fixed for the exhibition at Chiswick, that I have looked over fifty plants of one sort before I could find three or four perfect flowers. These roses recommended for greenhouse culture, from their producing a succession of bloom, must be most relied upon by the exhibitor; but if by a lucky chance a collection of moss roses, or some of the finer kinds of French and Hybrid Bourbon or Hybrid Perpetual roses, could be enticed to show themselves in all their gay attire on the day, they would make the greenhouse roses "hide their diminished heads." To form a collection of hardy roses in pots, the very best should be selected from the following families; Moss, Provence, Hybrid Provence, French, Damask Roses alba, Perpetual, and Hybrid Perpetual. Some good lists have been given in the Gardener's Chronicle; but these contain too many varieties with flaccid petals, which will not bear removal when in bloom. Now for hardy pot roses, except Moss Roses, in which the choice is limited, only those with very double flowers, and stiff, waxy petals, should be selected. The fol lowing will not disappoint the amateur. I ought here to mention, that it is better to pot two, or three, or four of any one good sort, rather than have a greater variety of second-rate roses. culture, will require the same treatment in summer as the above, but it will be necessary to remove them to the greenhouse or some other glass structure in November, for protection during the winter they will in the spring require the treatment recommended for greenhouse culture, and they must be kept under glass till the time for exhibiting. The above are all of first-rate quality; their tea scented. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. Bourbon. flowers are very double, and their petals thick, and not liable to fade quickly. About the end of October worked plants should be selected on very straight stems, not more than from six to eight inches in height. Care must be taken that their roots are so formed that each plant may be placed in the centre of the pot unless this is strictly attended to, they will make but a poor appearance, as may be seen in some of those exhibited at the horticultural shows. If any of the large roots interfere with the position of the plant in the pot, they may be much shortened, merely taking off the tips of the small roots and fibres. Stems from four to six inches may be taken generally as the most eligible height; but, to form plants for the back row, varieties of the following families may be on stems one foot to eighteen inches: they will increase the effect; viz. Hybrid China, Hybrid Bourbon, and Hybrid Perpetuals. Many of these will form, when in full bloom, fine rounded heads. When plants of the above description have been selected, they may be potted into No. 16's, or nine-inch pots, in a compost of nice turfy loam and rotten dung, equal parts; the loam should, if possible, be more rich and adhesive than that recommended for the plants under greenhouse culture; the pots used should be nine-inch or twelves, and, if some of the plants are very strong, even a size larger, called eleveninch or eights, may be used; these should then N be plunged, in the open air on the surface of the soil, in sawdust, rotten leaves, or old tan, which should be four inches deep on the surface of the mould in the pots, care being taken to place the bottom of each pot on a slate, for reasons before given. I recommend the pots to be placed on the surface, rather than to be plunged in the ground, as they then receive the full influence of the sun to their roots. Towards the end of February each plant must be pruned to within six or eight buds of the base of the strong shoots, and to within two or three buds of those that are more weak: it will be as well, however, if the plants have very long shoots, to shorten these one-third at the time of potting, as this prevents their being racked by the high winds of November. These Autumnal potted roses will not be fit for exhibition the first season after potting, they must have an entire summer's growth and good cultivation; in the autumn, when they have been one year in pots, if large plants are required, they should be shifted into No. 8's, or eleven-inch pots, and replunged in the place they have occupied. Towards the end of November, Tea-scented, Bourbon, and Noisette roses should be removed to their winter quarters, under glass, but they may be wintered with safety out of doors, if abundance of branches of evergreens are placed among them; the Hybrid Perpetuals ought also to have this shelter. Autumnal pruning will tend to give an earlier bloom; there |