Towards the end of March, when the second crop of flowers is coming on, the plants should have abundance of air daily, this will make them hardy and robust. Syringing should be practised every morning and evening; but when the flower-buds are ready to open, this must be confined to the stems of the plants and the pots, otherwise the flowers will be injured by the moisture. Care must be taken to remove the plants from the forcinghouse to the greenhouse or drawing-room before their blossoms expand; they may then be kept in beauty many days. I have not found the check which the plants receive by this sudden change of temperature at all detrimental. During their second growth the plants should be watered once a week with manured water*, and the surface of the pot occasionally stirred. Worked — i. e. budded -roses, are the most eligible for forcing: these seldom or never fail to give an abundant crop of flowers; stems from 6 inches to 1 and 2 feet are equally eligible: the latter form elegant plants, and I think generally grow with greater luxuriance than dwarfs. China and Tea-scented Roses on their own roots are more delicate, and require more care; still one crop of flowers may always be depended upon, even from them; instead of forcing them for a second crop, it will be better to

* One pound of guano to twenty gallons of water forms the very best species of liquid manure for pot culture: for the borders, double that quantity will be better.

place them in the greenhouse, they will then bloom again finely in May. I find, from experience, that all the autumnal roses may be forced every year without any disadvantage: to ensure their well-doing, they must be removed from the forcing-house early in June, the surface of the pots dressed with rotten manure, and plunged in the same, or leaves, or any light substance. Towards the end of September they should be carefully shifted, removing nearly all the earth from their roots,-into a compost of light loam and rotten dung, equal quantities (this is, on the whole, the very best compost for potted roses), watered, and again plunged till required for forcing this shifting would be better performed in June; but, as the weather is then often hot and dry, roses worked on the Dog Rose are apt to suffer. Pots of the sizes called near London 24's and 16's* are the best sizes for strong plants of roses for forcing: when potted, the large and unyielding roots should be cut off close, so that the plants may stand in the centre of the pots, the fibrous and small roots merely tipped.

The treatment recommended for roses in a pit with Arnott's stove, may be pursued with roses in a house with smoke-flues or hot-water pipes. Arnott's stove is recommended as an economical and

* The respective sizes of these pots are, 24's, 7 inches deep, and 8 inches over, measuring across the top of the pot; 16's, 8 inches deep, 9 inches in diameter.

eligible mode of heating, practised here to some extent with success for several years: on these stoves an iron pan, fitted to the top, should always be kept full of water. To sum up, give forced roses plenty of heat and plenty of air during the day.

CULTIVATION OF ROSES IN POTS FOR THE GREENHOUSE.

For this purpose a selection should be made of some of the finer varieties of China and Teascented Roses on their own roots; it may also include such Bourbons as the Queen, Acidalie, Paul Joseph, Aurore du Guide, Madame Nerard, Madame Margat, Souvenir de la Malmaison, and Noisette's Miss Glegg, and Solfaterre. These are all of dwarfish and compact habit, and free bloomers. Presuming these roses to be procured, in the spring or summer, in the usual small pots they are generally grown in by the cultivators for sale, they should be immediately potted into pots called 32's (these are generally 7 inches deep, by 6 over at the surface), in a compost of turfy sandy loam and well-rotted manure, equal quantities, or leaf-mould; if the latter is used, twothirds to one-third of loam will be as well; the

loam must not be sifted, but merely chopped into pieces as large as a walnut: the fine mould, which will, as a matter of course, result from this chopping, must not be separated from the pieces of turf, but all must be well mixed with the manure or leaf-mould. The pots should then be filled about one-fourth with broken pieces of crockery or potsherds, the plants taken from the small pots, and the balls of earth gently pressed so as to loosen them; place each plant in the centre of the large pot; press the earth well round them; give a soaking of water, and plunge them in sawdust or tan, in some sunny exposed place where they may have all the sun our fickle climate will give them. They may remain plunged till early in October, when they should be removed into the greenhouse, but a fortnight before taking them into their winter-quarters, lift every pot, and place it on the surface of the bed in which they have been plunged: their roots then become hardened, and bear the dry warm air of the greenhouse without injury: they should at this time also be pruned into any handsome desirable shape (a compact bush is perhaps the prettiest), or, if tall plants are required, the long shoots may be fastened to a neat painted stick. Roses thus treated will come into bloom in the greenhouse in April, and continue one of its brightest ornaments till the beginning of June; they should then be repotted into larger pots if large plants are

wished for, and again plunged in the open air till the autumn care must be taken to place the pots on slates, to prevent their roots getting through the bottoms of the pots. If compact and pretty little plants are required, the same pots may be used, merely reducing the roots, so that the pot will hold a small quantity of compost for the plant to feed upon. A most excellent compost for potted roses may be made as follows:- Pare some turf from a loamy pasture: the parings must not be more than one inch in thickness; bake them in an oven about twelve hours when

the temperature is equal to that just after it has been used for baking bread; they must not be burned*: this, chopped as before directed, with equal parts of rotten manure, or leaf-mould, forms one of the very finest of composts. The plants must be looked to carefully in spring, and whenever infested by the aphis, or green-fly, tobaccosmoket must be applied. Mildew is easily de

* I have used, with much success, turf roasted on a sheet of iron (placed on temporary brickwork) under which a moderate fire has been kept: about one hour's roasting is sufficient. This chars the turfy side, and acts most beneficially.

† The aphis is perhaps more conveniently destroyed by a strong infusion of tobacco, say four ounces to a quart of water, poured on boiling hot, and applied when cool to the shoots with a brush in the following manner: - Place a piece of slate or glass, so that the shoot rests against it, then dip the brush in the tobacco-water, and brush upwards: a small painter's brush is the most efficient.