four years since, in a pan of seedling Moss Roses, was one with a most peculiar habit, even when very young; this has since proved a hybrid rose, partaking much more of the Scotch Rose than of any other, and till the plant arrived at full growth I thought it a Scotch Rose, the seed of which had by accident been mixed with that of the Moss Rose, although I had taken extreme care: to my surprise it has since proved a perfect hybrid, having the sepals and the fruit of the Provence Rose, with the spiny and dwarf habit of the Scotch Rose; it bears abundance of hips, which are all abortive.* The difference in the fruit of the Moss and Provence Rose and those of the Scotch is very remarkable, and this it was which drew my particular attention to the plant in question; it was raised from the same seed, and in the same seed-pan, as the Single Crimson Moss Rose; as this strange hybrid came from a Moss Rose accidentally fertilised, we may expect that art will do much more for us.

The following extract from the Botanical Register for January, 1840, will, I think, go to prove that these expectations are not without foundation:

"My principal reason for publishing a figure

* It is more than probable, that if the flowers of this rose were fertilised with those of the single Moss Rose, they would produce seed from which some curious hybrid moss roses might be expected.

of this very remarkable plant, Fuchsia Standishii, is because it is a mule between Fuchsia fulgens and Fuchsia globosa, two plants as dissimilar as possible in the same genus. The former, indeed, figured in this work for the year 1838, tab. 1., differs in so many respects from the common species of the genus, especially in having an herbaceous stem and tuberous roots, that it has been supposed impossible that it should be a Fuchsia at all. It now, however, appears, from the fact of its crossing freely with the common Fuchsias, that it produces hybrids, and really does belong to the genus. These hybrids are completely intermediate between the two parents: in this case having the leaves, flowers, and habit of their mother, Fuchsia globosa, with the hairiness and tenderness of foliage of their father, some of his colouring, and much of his herbaceous character. It is by no means necessary to take Fuchsia globosa for the female parent, as Fuchsia fulgens is found to intermix readily with many other species. That which is now figured is the handsomest I have seen. It was raised by Mr. John Standish, nurseryman, Bagshot, who sent me specimens last July, together with flowers of several others of inferior appearance. He tells me that it is an exceedingly free bloomer, with a stiff erect habit; and I can state, from my personal knowledge, that the plant is very handsome."

L

Now this is from Dr. Lindley, who may be quoted as a weighty authority; and this plant is a hybrid between two, one of which, I believe, it was seriously contemplated to place out of the genus Fuchsia, so dissimilar did it appear to any known species of that genus. After this, we may hope for a Mossy Bourbon Rose, and a Yellow Ayrshire.

PROPAGATION OF SUMMER ROSES.

There are four modes of propagation applicable to Summer Roses, viz. by layers, by cuttings, by budding, and by grafting. Layering may be performed in spring, summer, and autumn; the two latter seasons only can be recommended, but if any are forgotten or omitted by accident, the operation in spring will often give success; still as summer layering is the most legitimate, I shall give directions for that my first notice.

About the middle of July in most seasons the shoots will be found about eighteen inches or two feet in length; from these, two thirds of their length, the leaves should be cut off, close to the shoot, beginning at the base, with a very sharp knife; the shoot must then be brought to the ground, so as to be able to judge in what place the hole must be made to receive it; this may be made large enough to hold a quarter of a peck of compost: in heavy

and retentive soils this should be rotten dung and pit sand in equal quantities, well mixed; the shoot must then be "tongued," i. e. the knife introduced just below a bud, and brought upwards, so as to cut about half way through: this must be done at the side or back of the shoot (not by any means at the front or in the bend), so that the tongue does not close; to make this certain a small piece of glass or thin earthenware may be introduced to keep it open. Much nicety is required to have the tongue at the upper part of the shoot, so as not to be in the part which forms the bow, as it is of consequence that it should be within two inches of the surface, so as to feel the effects of the atmospheric heat; unless this is attended to, the roots will not be emitted quickly; the tongued part must be placed in the centre of the compost, and a moderate-sized stone put on the surface of the ground to keep the layer in its place. The first week in November the layers may be taken from the parent plant, and either potted as required, or planted out where they are to remain. Those shoots not long enough in July and August may be layered in October, when the layers are taken from the stools, and, if any are forgotten, February and March will be the most favourable months for the operation; as a general rule, July is the most proper season.

PROPAGATION OF SUMMER ROSES BY
CUTTINGS.

The

To procure early cuttings, so as to have plants ready for planting out in June, strong plants must be placed in the forcing-house in December; these will make vigorous shoots, which, when thoroughly ripe in March, should be made into cuttings about six inches in length; the leaves must be left on that part of the cutting above the surface. Supposing the cutting to contain six buds, from three of these the leaves may be removed, or, if they are very large, even four, leaving two buds with the leaves attached. cuttings may be planted singly in small pots filled one third with small pieces of broken pots (on these must the end of the cutting rest), and the remainder with light mould, or peat and sand equal quantities; the cuttings must then be placed in a gentle hot-bed and kept perfectly close, no air should be admitted, by raising the lights in the slightest degree, except for the operation of watering; they must be sprinkled with tepid water every morning and again in the afternoon, but the latter only in bright sunny weather: these operations should be performed as quickly as possible, to prevent their being exposed to the exhausting effects of the open air. They will have made roots in a fortnight or three weeks. When this is ascertained, which can be done by gently turn