small one, and you would produce a quiet effect, let the light be chiefly on the water, and in the sky; the other parts being kept down.

The rocks here deserve your notice, so curious and uncommon: some of them excavated into deep cylindrical pools, others ridged, and formed as it were of concentric layers: what say the geologists to this?

These, I believe, are the principal attractions for your pencil in this romantic region. But it should be explored in every direction, and its varying appearances watched. A friend tells me of a mill and water-fall some way down the Rhydoll: Malkin mentions one,* and also a foot-bridge at the bottom of one of the dingles, down which you turn to the right from the Aberystwith road. Some of the mountains are finely shaped, pointed, and almost square-topped. Clouds often descend very low, and as they roll, or rest upon the mountains, produce remarkable effects. The general defects too in the views here should not pass unnoticed nor untold. They

* South Wales, p. 370.

are, I think, chiefly these; a heavy angular formality, a confined sameness, and a monotony of colouring and surface: the two former occasioned by the almost perpendicular steeps folding in one upon another through the whole dingle; the latter by the woods with which their sides are so generally clothed.

Perhaps you will visit Hafod House and grounds.* I saw little of them, and therefore refer you again to the ample descriptions of Cumberland and

Malkin.

If this minute letter tire you, yet the subject, I think, will not. Twice have I staid amidst these terrible beauties, and each time took of them, as I predict you will, a very unwilling farewell. They have left a more vivid impression on my fancy, than any I have seen before or since: and among many sketches, made in many tours, I have none that I prize so highly, or still study with such pleasure, as those on this justly celebrated spot.

Yours, &c.

* Hafod or Havod, in English the Farm or Summer-house.

LETTER X.

SHOULD you alter your plan, and make South Wales a separate tour, I would recommend a route eastward from the Devil's Bridge, through Rhayader, Bualt, and Brecon. Let me try in this letter if I can tempt you.

The walk to Rhayader is about seventeen miles, wild and barren, but more interesting, I thought, than from it. About two miles on the way, is Pentre Brunant Inn; a very mean road-side house, near which, when coming in the opposite direction, I turned off to the left, and fetched a circuit to the Devil's Bridge, by a road passing Hafod House, and through part of the grounds. Many persons, who come from Rhayader with post horses, and wish to see Hafod, leave them here, and take this road.

The mountainous perspective, as you approach

Cwm Ystwith lead mines, is a good subject for broad effect the winding road, and miners' huts, with their wreath of smoke, giving it variety and character.

STATION.

Bring the nearest reach of road exactly over that which you stand upon. Ascend, till you see two reaches of the road beyond the ascent.

The heights above Rhayader Gwy† command a spacious prospect of the Radnorshire mountains; the Wye to the left, on the right Cwm Eland and Llyn Gwyn. Just out of the road here, on the

The vale of the springing river. Cwm, a glen or hollow, pronounced Coom. W is a vowel in Welch, and has the power of our oo in soon. Bingley, North Wales, vol. ii. p. 297.

+ The fall of the Wye. Rhayader is a cataract. Wye or Gwy, though here the name of a river, seems anciently to have been the appellation either for river or water. Hence the names of many Welch rivers become intelligible. Llugwy, clear water, from lugh, light; Dowrdwy, loud water, from duraah, noise; Edwy, swift stream, from ehed, to fly. Camden, Edit. Gibson, p. 587. Llyn Gwyn is the white lake.