LETTER XV.

A CHAIN of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire, from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach in Conway Bay, gradually rising from each extremity toward the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon. The name of this mountain was first given it by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered with snow; and the Welch call all this adjacent range Creigiau yr Eryri, the snowy cliffs. But it is not true, as has been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year: there is seldom any between the months of June and November; for the point of permanent snow is at somewhat above 4350 feet, which is considerably higher than Snowdon. The temperature at the top is generally very low, even in the midst of summer. In July, just after sun-rise, the thermometer has been observed at 34°, and in August at 48°, early in the afternoon.

Snowdon was held sacred by the ancient Britons, and they believed, that whoever slept upon it would wake inspired. It was formerly also a royal forest, and abounded with deer, but the last of these were destroyed early in the seventeenth century. The eagle is said still occasionally to visit the highest crags, and on the north and north-east side the botanist finds many uncommon alpine plants: Bingley reckons twenty-seven. Geologists tell us (for I am not one), that Snowdon is basaltic; that the precipitous western side consists of hornstone, on which are placed a number of basaltic columns, pentagonal, and standing perpendicular to the plane of the horizon. Another curious fact is, that near the top there is a spring of very cold water, seldom increased or diminished in quantity either in summer or winter.†

Snowdon may be ascended from various points; Bingley tried four-from Dolbadarn Castle-Llanberis-Llyn Cwellyn-and Beddgelert. I took the last; it is said to be the easiest and safest,

* Aikin's Tour, p. 99.

+ Bingley, vol. i. p. 254

and much of it is practicable for horses. Which is the track for your sketch-book, I cannot say, but certainly not mine; nor have I met with any drawing of the interior of Snowdon, and only one from the peak, looking down the peninsula toward Bardsey Island and St. George's Channel.* Bird's-eye views are now the fashion, and this is certainly carrying it pretty high, much higher, indeed, than you, I hope, will follow. Cader Idris is the painter's mountain; and even "in its form, Snowdon, though confessedly the highest in Wales, is by no means the most picturesque: for Cader Idris, Moelwyn, and Arran in North Wales, and Cader Arthur, near Brecknock, in South Wales, present a far bolder outline." The first half of our way, nearly, lay over swampy ground, through which the guide seemed to pick his path with much caution. This soon changed to a wide extent of rugged, grey crags; and here the expanse below appeared very noble and distinct. I was more sensible too of the height we stood at, than even

* Water Colour Exhibition, 1817.

+ Girald. Cambr. vol. ii. p. 132.

when at the top; for suddenly a cloud came rolling past, and poured a heavy rain upon us, while the whole prospect beneath was glowing with sunshine. The ascent then became smooth, bare, and very steep, till within the last quarter of a mile, which was a horizontal ridge of rock, about ten or twelve feet across, down either side of which I could look to the very base of the mountain. The highest point is a craggy space, about two or three yards in diameter, and called Yr Wyddfa, the conspicuous.

Many go up to see the sun-rise, and are disappointed. Your view would probably be finer in a bright noon. Mine was perfectly clear on one side of the mountain, and on the other exactly as Pennant describes it-a fog hung beneath, giving "the idea of a number of abysses concealed by thick smoke, furiously circulating around; sometimes they would open only in one place, at others in many at once; exhibiting a most strange and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks, chasms, in fifty different places." The prospect is of course

"*

* Snowdonia, p. 164.

vast, and almost unbounded; but surely its character may be understood from an inferior elevation; and what is gained by fancying you see a speck, which the guide tells you is the Isle of Man? If you prefer the certainty of nearer views, the appearance of the mountain itself will gratify you more: the caverns, lakes, precipices, and other peculiar features, are exceedingly grand and curious. I remember one of them that we came upon suddenly, about half way up, with which I was much pleased. A crater, perhaps a quarter of a mile in circumference, and of tremendous depth, with steep smooth sides sloping inwards to the bottom without a single break. On peeping over the edge, I could discern two diminutive lakes, appearing in the deep gloom below, like two gems, and one of them of a pure emerald colour.

The perpendicular height of Snowdon is, by late admeasurements, 1190 yards, (somewhat less than three quarters of a mile), from the level of the sea.* This makes it, according to Pennant, 240 yards

* Bingley, vol. i. p. 250.