started at eight o'clock, morally and physically "fit" for the Otomi-tonga Pass. The trail leads for a short distance over level country, and then rises along steep hill-sides, clothed to their summits with trees or tall bamboo grass, while the view was at first bounded on all sides by volcanic hills, some three or four thousand feet in elevation. At three hours out, we reached the top of the pass, whence the ground slopes rapidly away to an extensive plain, out of which Fusiyama rises, its mass displayed from base to summit. Although the mountain-top was quite clear when we started, we caught but a momentary glimpse of it from Otomi-tonga, the clouds covering it deeply soon after our arrival. The very absence of the hidden peak, however, directed our attention more particularly to the lower slopes of the volcano, which would hardly have been noticed if the snowy cone had been visible. These rise from the plain with an inclination so extremely slight that it was almost impossible to believe such gentle grades could end in a lofty cone. They might be the first heave of a low mountainous ridge, but not the foundations of a towering peak. Fusiyama is a beautiful example of the modification which the outlines of volcanoes undergo from the undermining of their bases by the ejection of matter from below. But for this, volcanic cones would slope steeply like a railway embankment, from top to bottom; and, if they do not, it is because the centre sinks while the heap is accumulating. It is with the utmost regret that we have given up the project, cherished from the day we left the Golden Gate, of ascending Fusiyama, but the mountain became covered with snow on the day after our arrival in Japan, and snow, in this latitude, is quite fatal to climbing. The trip is not a difficult one in July and August, and it is a great disappointment, especially to that half of the expedition which has scaled the Matterhorn, not to have had the summit of the sacred mountain under our feet, and to have looked down into its exhausted crater.

On our way back to Myanoshita, we encountered several small snakes and a number of little land-crabs, the latter living in the damp wayside vegetation; but, favourable as the country seems to

We

land-shells, I only saw two helices during the whole day. passed many villages on the trail, surrounded by irrigated patches of rice, and picturesquely embosomed in densely wooded hills, whose foliage was brightening with the tints of autumn. Thermal springs abound among these volcanic mountains. Myanoshita itself is a kind of Japanese Buxton; while the neighbourhood is thickly scattered with village watering-places, quite as much in vogue with the Japanese as among ourselves, for the cure of disease.

October 26.-A wet morning put a stop to our projected trip to Hakone Lake and the sulphur springs north of it, so we strolled about the village, which straggles up the hill-side by a crooked street of rock-cut stairs. Wood-turning and ornamental boxmaking form together quite an extensive industry in Myanoshita, and the work finds its way in large quantities to the shops of Yokohama. The turning-lathe in use is an extremely primitive machine, consisting of a small iron spindle, twirled by two pieces of string wrapped round it for a few turns in opposite directions. The spindle revolves alternately backwards and forwards, the cutting tool being applied only while it is turning towards the workman; but it is surprising to see what accurate work is produced in this way.

Returning after a short walk through a lovely valley, cultivated with tea and ginger, we came suddenly upon one of the great bathing establishments, of which there are so many among these hills, frequented by the Japanese in summer for the sake of their hot mineral waters. The house looked deserted; but in one of the galleries was a pretty girl, towelling after the bath, who fled, like a flash, behind the paper slides when she saw us. We could only suppose that she disappeared in search of her clothes, which were certainly not outside; but, had we been her own countrymen, it is probable that it would never have occurred to her to move.

The tea-house where we are lodged possesses a characteristic Japanese garden. It is very tiny, but its centre is occupied by a lake, through which flows a winding river. The latter is crossed

by several bridges; and on the banks of the former are a Shinto and Buddhist temple. In the north rises a range of mountains, with hill-paths and wayside shrines, while gnarled pines and cedars, hundreds of years old in appearance, but only a foot or two in height, are scattered over the hills and plain. It is a country to explore; but its area is only a few square yards. The lake is full of great fat gold-fish, which come to the surface for food, at a peculiar cay from the girls; and the river bank is lined by a dozen pots of blooming chrysanthemums, seeming tall forest trees by comparison with their toy-like surroundings. The chry santhemum is very commonly grown in Japan, but the rage is rather for dwarfed trees and trained shrubs than for flowers; though the native gardeners, when they wish, are no less skilful in producing specimen blooms than monstrosities.

October 27.-We started early for Hakone Lake, rejoicing in a brilliant day, and with good hope of a fine view of Fusiyama from Hakone village. The trail was steep for the first hour and a half, which brought us to Ashinoyu, another Japanese Buxton, whence there is a magnificent prospect. Beneath us, at some miles distance, lay Odowara Bay, stretching towards the northeast, its deeply indented and densely wooded shores being half hidden by misty air. Seaward, the Pacific was shrouded as usual in light vapours; while inland, an irregular chain of volcanic hills crossed the picture diagonally, falling almost to the plain as it neared the shore, but rising again in a castellated prominence before finally sinking under the waves.

On the way to Ashinoyu we passed a rock-cut Buddha, which is said to be twelve hundred years old, or coeval with the introduction of the religion of Sakya-Muni into Japan. The figure was heaped with small stones, lying wherever they would rest. Each stone represents a prayer, which the worshipper thinks likelier to be heard if the pebble he throws remains on the image. All the sacred statues around the temples in Japan are in this way heaped with stones, which no one ever attempts to disturb.

From Ashinoyu the trail was easy to Hakone, which was reached

in three hours after starting. Here we got a perfect view of Fusiyama, the lake forming a foreground, while wooded hills. opened widely enough on the right and left to show five or six thousand feet of the cone, glittering white in the sunlight, and outlined with indescribable clearness against an azure sky. Taking a sampan at Hakone village, we sailed to the northern end of the lake, whose scenery vividly recalls that of the Scottish Highlands; and, having landed, an hour and a half of stiff climbing brought us to the sulphur springs. Thence we got our best view of Fusiyama, displayed from summit to base-a picture such as that which Japanese artists are never tired of repeating.

The sulphur springs were curious, but not impressive. Jets of steam issued from the ground in all directions, and small basins of boiling mud were sputtering vigorously; the air was full of sulphurous vapour, and the ground covered with beautiful yellow crystals. Some ruinous and deserted bamboo sheds told us that the place had been worked for sulphur at some time. It was already late, and the mountain paths are so dark at night where they cross tracts of forest, that we cut short our adieux to the sacred mountain, and hurried homewards down the steep and stony track. Reaching Myanoshita soon after sundown, we wallowed for half an hour in the warm water which flows from a natural source by a bamboo pipe through the baths of the teahouse; while Kobé was busy in the kitchen.

A long tramp, a warm bath, a good dinner, and good digestion, make men enjoy a good cigar, and thus solaced, we sat, wrapped in the Japanese robes which we had already learned to use when en deshabille, and discussing with much interest the events of the day. Suddenly O-Kea-Sun appeared, leading by the hand a hideous old blind woman, with black teeth, shaven eyebrows, and wrinkled skin, who approached my companion, saying something in Japanese, and laying a hand with an entreating gesture on his shoulder. All the Joseph in my friend's nature was roused in a moment, and a good German oath rolled round the room like a prolonged peal of thunder. O-Kea-Sun screamed with laughter,

while the unabashed old scarecrow remained unmoved and imploring. "What does she mean, O-Kea-Sun ?" shouted the cosmopolite. "What does she mean? I'm afraid your friend is not a good old lady." "Nodd-ad all, nodd-ad-all!" laughed the little nasan, without an idea of what he was saying. But by-and-by she found English and pantomime enough to make us understand that this was one of the blind "amas," the professional shampooers, or rubbers, of Japan, who earn a modest living in every city by the practice of this truly national and, as they declare, most remedial art.

October 28.-We quitted Myanoshita and our attentive entertainers with considerable regret. The scenery was charming, the mountain air invigorating, the tea-house chairs and beds comfortable, and the study of native life amusing; but we left all these delights for the sake of the Yokohama races, and reaching Tonosawa on foot, jinricked to Odowara, where we found the evergreen buggy duly awaiting us, and, threading all day the interminable villages of the Tokaido, reached Yokohama in time to join a charming party at our host's dinner-table. To-morrow we shall see with what energy these ardent young spirits prosecute the sports of home, which they carry round the world, and acclimatize under every meridian.

CHAPTER VII.

SETTLEMENT LIFE AND VIEWS.

October 29-31.

NOTHING strikes the traveller more forcibly in passing through America than the variety of industries, men, and manners which he encounters. Every state is in course of active development, according to its natural capacities, and new objects of interest