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fruit-treeslinger among the oaks and chestnuts; and the melancholy convent ruins are crowned and garlanded with scarlet wreaths of barberries. We all carried away branches of those last; the dear Archdeacon himself adorning his ecclesiastical hat with the beautiful drops of berries, with all the naturalness and delightful abandonment to the feeling of the moment, which is so charming in such a man. Thus, with reluctant steps, we all left the pathetic historic isle; and indeed, so perfect and engrossing was the impression it made upon me, that I feel but little inclination to go further. That image has no discord; except, indeed, what in our pilgrimage through the island I had forgotten, the barbarous neglect into which the chapel has been allowed to fall. Considering the singular pathos. of its recollections, it is incredible that the little convent church in which Mary of Scotland said her baby prayers, and which connects itself so exquisitely with her memory, should, in the Scotland which is still loyal to Mary, be permitted to drop so miserably into ignominious decay.

I hasten, however, to the end of my task, though feeling that I have exhausted myself in natural enthusiasm over this lovely lake. To imagine, after such an experience, that one's thoughts could turn to Bailie Nicol Jarvie and his adventures, as one is called upon to do by the very name of Aberfoyle, is too contemptible to be dreamed of. I should have despised myself could I have entered upon the ludicrous immediately after having been so deeply absorbed in the patheticI might, indeed, say the sublime; though, I am sorry to add, dear Kate, from whom I expected better things, was quite as ready to be interested as if no such contrast

existed. A little way past Aberfoyle, however, we came upon another wilderness of wood and water, a chain of lovely lochs connected by links of the infant Forth, then just setting out upon his devious way.

The innermost of these, and indeed all of them, with their lofty banks of wood and fairy stretches of water, and the shallow straits between, where our boat had almost grounded, were really not to be surpassed, had my eyes been equal to their office. But one cannot either suffer or enjoy beyond one's measure. I feel that too much beauty, like too much of anything, obscures one's powers of observation. The upper lake, however, brought us in sight of another living wall of mountains grandly turning upward towards the west-mountains darkly overhung by clouds, and covered with that wonderful gloom and blackness which give so much grandeur to their aspect. At one spot, and one only, a yellow gleam of light descended into the narrow opening of a defile, and between the thundery firmament above and the glooming hills below, gave a wonderful centre to the scene. Warned by threatening rain and falling night, we had, however, to hasten from Loch Ard and its linked companions. companions had clearly enjoyed themselves in their various fashions; and nothing could better illustrate the course of human life than our procession as we hastened to our carriage. The Archdeacon, dear man, marched in advance with the barberries in his hat-his wife not far from his elbow, but not clinging to him (indeed it did not seem to occur to him to offer her any assistance on the way), while Kate (absorbed with the boy John, who was very tired and getting sleepy, and of course totally indifferent to the scenery) and I followed. The Archdeacon's

My

*Note.-K.S.-Very sour plums; discovered, of course, by Johnnie, whose wonderful faculty of observation is not duly appreciated, especially by Arabella. That boy will develop into something, if the Archdeacon does not cramp his genius. He ate them, of course, and took no harm.

conversation, I must say, was chiefly addressed to myself-as, indeed, he is a man of wonderful discrimination, and did not fail to observe that his wife was tired, and dear Kate preoccupied. Behind us, a long way off, so that we half lost sight of them in the gathering twilight, were the two young people. Yes; I am not aware that there need be any delicacy about it-I am sure no one can say that any particular effort to preserve their secret was made on their part. The Archdeacon marched on, a little apprehensive about the rain and the darkness. Mrs Archdeacon went along in a resigned silence, sighing audibly now and then, all enchantment having gone out of the day, now that fatigue and night were setting in. Kate kept talking to the boy, but her words dropped more and more sparingly; and I, though my mind, I trust, was filled with lovely images, and all my thoughts delightfully occupied, even I was not unwilling to see the lights in the windows, and hear the wheels of the carriage coming to take us on to our night's repose. But the two behind came lingering on, turning round to look at views which they could not see, and disposed to keep us waiting for an amount of time which, if they had been left to themselves, would certainly have ruined the Archdeacon's temper for the night. When I was a girl, Alice's conduct would have been unbelievable. Of course nobody objected to them falling in love with each other. When two young people are permitted to be much together, one naturally, of course, prepares for the possibility of such a result; but still there are feminine decorums which ought to be attended to. I do not blame Mr Reginald; but really, for a girl who wears a veil perpetually over her face, I think a little reserve might have been becoming. ever, I say no more. I don't doubt it is a very suitable match. Mrs Archdeacon seems pleased enough,

How

I

and she ought to know best. only hope everything may go on well, and no obstacle come in the way of their happiness.

As dear Kate has something to add, and I own to being a little fatigued after all the delightful excitements of this excursion, I leave the conclusion to my friend.

POSTCRIPT.-No obstacle: I must say I think it very spiteful of Arabella to make such a suggestion -when, to be sure, the young creatures are as happy as possible, and it is a pleasure to see them. A handsome couple. Mrs Archdeacon and I are quite agreed upon the subject.

What I have got to say, however, has nothing to do with any accidents of the journey. After talking it over, I have been intrusted with the drawing out of a proposal for the formation of a confraternity of lake tourists-not exactly on the principles of the Alpine Club; a wider latitude is to be allowed, and at the same time a more rigid selectness. We are now five in number;

Alice, of course, being a girl, does not count-and it is also possible enough that Reginald, when he is married, may have to be turned out likewise; but in the mean time there are five of us. I trust we are not unpleasant companions. Under the following limits we are open to applications for admission into our number :

1st, Elderly ladies very eligible, their good-humour being properly certified-especially if possessed of a little wit. I may be allowed to add, that judges and other learned functionaries, of suitable years, are included in this description.

2d, Clergymen of advanced views will be admitted freely, under promise of saying nothing to disturb the faith of the lay members of the body. Other professional persons will also have their claims duly considered on the similar condition, that, except in the case of soldiers and sailors who will be permitted

to describe their adventures, professional talk of all kinds is prohibited.

3d, Young ladies will be allowed to become members of the society only under very strict regulations. They must be under the charge of their lawful guardians, the heads of the society not undertaking to be responsible either for engagements made or hearts broken by the way. If very pretty, objected to; the object of the confraternity being inconsistent with an excess of devotion on the part of the brethren to any beauties but those of nature.

4th, Members of Social Science committees, both male and female, and other scientific persons, totally ineligible.

5th, The initiatory rites to consist of a journey of fifty miles or more, according to the mode of conveyance, through Highland scenery, on a very wet day. Candidates who come through this ordeal with perfect good-humour and unabated courage, to be, all other rules being complied with, received with acclamations.

Applicants may address themselves to Reginald A-, Esq., by letter only the said letters to be sent to that honourable house in George Street, Edinburgh, which is the local habitation of the everrevered and illustrious Maga.

Operations, however, I am sorry

to say, are over for this year-but as we have not nearly exhausted the Scottish lochs, and have all the lakes of Christendom, not to say the world, before us, I think a very fair prospect opens before those of the band who may live to see next summer-before which time I have no doubt its numbers will be largely increased.

It is unnecessary to add to Arabella's narrative. We saw a good deal more to be sure, but space forbids detail. One thing I should be glad to know before concluding-are people aware how many fine ecclesiastical remains there are in Scotland, and how much might be done for them? I cannot believe it possible, or the frightful vandalisms in existence could not be tolerated. The cattle in Inchmahome are bad enough—but, good heaven! fancy a noble church like that in Stirling remorselessly cut in half and choked up with close pews! not to speak of Dunblane, where a fine old monument is smothered under those frightful intrusions of carpentry. If some great impulse of universal "restoration" could be given in Scotland as in England, under High-Church influences, the Presbyterian nation might manage to hold up its head again among the churchbuilders of the world;-as it does to be sure, but not, so far as architecture is concerned, in a very desirable or creditable way.

CAPTAIN CLUTTERBUCK'S CHAMPAGNE.

A WEST INDIAN REMINISCENCE.

PART I. CHAPTER I.

THERE is, or was some quarter of a century ago, in the Port Royal Mountains of Jamaica, a military station called Stony Hill, about 1300 feet above the sea. It had been established at this altitude in the hope of procuring increased comfort and health for the troops. It was certainly cooler than the plain, and therefore answered its intent in respect of climate; but experience had shown that it was far from being beyond the range of that scourge, the yellow fever. However, it was quite in the country, though within a moderate drive of the city of Kingston, and thus it afforded an agreeable change to one who had been quartered on a lower level.

We glance back over the quarter century of which mention has been made above, and introduce the reader to a room in the officers' quarters. 'Twas a lodging that had held many inmates, and seen incidents well worthy, perhaps, of remembrance-all absorbed into the same voracious past whence we are humbly endeavouring to rescue this our tale. With submission to the Spectator's captious Dervise, we venture to affirm that, spite of its frequent changes of inhabitants, this chamber was not a caravanserai, and that, if he had been silly enough to spread his carpet there unbidden, he would have had his holy head punched, and suffered summary ejectment at the hands of Lieutenant Arthur Brune, who considered himself for the time being its rightful and sole possessor. Judged of from the fireside of a snug English drawing-room or study, 'twould seem a bleak and desolate apartment; but it must be borne in mind that, in tropical regions, coolness is comfort, and that for this reason rooms are kept as bare of furniture and hangings

as convenience will allow. It contained a small oak table furnished by his Majesty, and two strong and cruel-seated elm chairs from the same gracious source. This was all the regulated furniture, but the barrack - master had, at his own proper risk, lent a soldier's iron bedstead, mattress, and pillow, which, being covered with a chintz envelope, answered passing well for a sofa. There was a portable armchair-private property; and a deal slab to hold glasses, bottles, and goblets, fixed against the wall, whose fixing, being a breach of regulation, would, on surrendering the chamber, be paid for at the rate of twopence per nail, and a trifle for lime-whiting to the Royal landlord who, towards his military tenantry, was an austere man, and kept a lot of factors, called his Barrack Department, to squeeze them of their miserable substance : at least this is the subaltern's version of the matter. The table stood between the sofa and the arm-chair, each of which held an occupant looking particularly ennuyé, and puffing a cigar. On the board was some porter-cup, an agreeable and bilious mixture, well known in the island as a promoter of good-fellowship and yellow fever. The foaming beverage was contained in a jorum or huge glass, from which the parties drank at their convenience, preserving each his own side of the rim. For one or two this answers very well, but when a dozen or eighteen come to pull in turn all at the same jorum, it requires some familiarity with the method before the last drinkers become reconciled to the marks of thirsty lips, and plunge boldly into the surge from which not the minutest arc of the crystal circle is free, refreshing their souls at the expense of their fastidiousness.

One of our seedy subjects was Arthur Brune, aforesaid: the other was a chance guest of his-allow us to introduce him.

Old Tom Gervaise was fat, indolent, and slovenly. His countenance was handsome, and his complexion had probably been good before grog blossoms established a right of commonage on his person, and exercised their prerogative without order or reserve. The head was nearly bald on the top, but its contour was so good and its proportions so massive, that the loss of hair was hardly a disadvantage. At heart he was a voluptuary, but as he had not a grain of energy or patience, he appeared simply as a dirty, surly, lazy old sloven. Incapable of amusing himself, he spent such hours as were unavoidably solitary in lolling on a sofa, dozing gently, or improving the minutes between his slumbers by the study of illustrated fictions, of which he possessed a small but objectionable assortment. Solitude, though, he invariably eschewed when company could be obtained without trouble or exertion; and he drank, gamed, or sported, not so much from love of these things, as because they were means of procuring society. Long compliance with dissipated companions had, however, without decided excess, shaken his constitution and made a wreck of him. A small quantity of liquor affected his head, and he had not the self-command to refrain from mixing several kinds together, but recklessly swallowed one sort after another as they were presented. To the agrémens of companionship he contributed nothing except the opportunity of cracking a chance joke on his peculiarities. Too indolent even to talk, his custom was to loll in

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contradicted him, with a thick stick, which his uncertain gait obliged him to carry, and which was a wellknown and celebrated staff. Whenever any sort of entertainment was going on, Tom was sure to be present. What made his presence acceptable it is difficult to explain, if it were not that the fellows liked to laugh at him and hear him growl. Certain it is that he was always more than tolerated, and allowed to say and do with impunity things for which another man would have been called to severe account, but for which he seemed to possess a general prescription. One reason of this may be that he had not always been the sort of old sinner that he now was; and possibly habit, without an effort of his own, kept him within bounds, and caused him in some sort to discriminate character, and to adapt the intensity of his style to the person he addressed. Indeed, there was a tradition that Tom had once been the most fastidious dandy in his regiment. He seldom or never himself alluded to a period when he was not an eagle's talon in the waist. Yet it could not have been so very long ago, for, though called old Tom, and though lazy and helpless enough for an octogenarian, he had not passed middle age. Even now, those who had known him in his exquisite days took a pride in the remembrance; and, upon occasions when they desired the regiment to look its best, as at a public dinner or a governor's levée, would invade Tom's quarters heedless of the inhospitable growls and curses of the proprietor, and wash him by force, and dress him decently by contributions from their own wardrobes. A very fine old fellow Tom looked, too, at such times! His head bore the stamp of a lawgiver or a historian, and a most audacious forgery it was. Nature got thimblerigged, and found the skull under which she thought she had placed a double portion of brain, lamentably empty. Poor old Tom! It is hard to read over what truth has compelled to be written concerning

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