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An upright cleaning is shown ready to wipe in Fig. 32. Plain upright joints are so easy, and occur so frequently, that the art of wiping them is soon mastered. The receiving end should be below and should be opened with the turn-pin and rasped off to suit. Its lower, inner edge and the tip of the spigot should be soiled. The ends should fit well, and the open part taper a little more than the spigot. The bulge helps to keep the solder up; and the cup, if well cleaned, will make a good joint alone. When wiping, either spit the solder on with a stick or pour on the cloth and drift it against the cleaning. Keep the mass up. Endeavor to pour solder on solder

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Fig. 33. Wiping an Overhead Joint

alone until the cold fringe loosens of its own accord. When hot, form up roughly, high, and cut the top edge off clean first; then drag up the settling bottom edge, and fill out the low places; then wipe to finish, bearing the hardest on the upper edge of the cloth. The table

can be made of two pieces of pasteboard as shown. Set it low enough to let the cloth and hand clear what drops when wiping. If cold solder surrounds the pipe when finished, melt it apart with the copper.

The overhead joint, shown in Fig. 33, is wiped in the same way as though it were on the floor. The position is a trying one, and the cloth and ladle are kept in place at a great disadvantage. A stiff cloth is best to get the heat with; while a second, more flexible and previously warmed, can be used in conjunction, to do the shaping and wiping. Some heat previously applied with the torch to the edges,

will shorten the time of getting the heat, and save the wrists and fingers from cramp and excessive tiring. Some provision for straightening the line is necessary, if a straight shoot is too high to wipe. Sometimes the surplus pipe is snaked into one horizontal plane with proper incline so that the pipe will drain, and is supported by a shelf

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SECTION OF SWIMMING POOL SHOWING WATER HEATER AT THE RIGHT OF POOL WALL

Courtesy of Federal-Huber Company, Chicago

DRAINAGE WORK AND

VENTING

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Definitions. The term house drain may be applied to the pipe which receives the total discharge from any fixture or set of fixtures, within any building, and which carries or conducts it to the house sewer. The discharge may or may not include rain water. The term house sewer is applied to the pipes, usually composed of vitrified clay, which begin about 4 feet outside the foundation wall of the building and connect the house drains with the public sewer in the street.

The term public sewer is applied to the pipes laid in the streets and into which flows the sewage from all buildings and premises within the same curtilage.

The term cesspool is applied to an underground tank receiving the sewage from one or more buildings. Such a tank often is adopted where no public sewer exists.

Essential Features of Drainage System. An efficient system of drainage should embrace the following features:

(1) There must be no escape of liquids, solids, or drain air from any part of the house drain, branch drains, soil, waste, or vent pipes.

(2) All drains must be laid on a solid foundation, either natural or artificial, in straight lines from point to point, with adequate provision for cleansing at the highest point of each branch. The whole system must have an even, regular, and minimum fall.

(3) All drains must be large enough to carry off the maximum quantity of sewage, yet small enough to insure self-cleansing.

(4) The discharge of all greasy sewage from kitchen sinks, etc., must be intercepted from the drain by an approved type of catch basin or grease trap.

(5) The junction with the public sewer should be made by means of an approved oblique-hubbed junction pipe or by

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