place. It consists of one long and wide street, and the houses are built of weatherboard, bark, and canvas, the two latter predominating, and flour-barrels being the favourite materials for the chimneys, wherever the houses were so lucky as to have chimneys. Large staring placards, in every variety of character, announced the names and callings of the various owners. Lodging-houses, public-houses, and gold-buying establishments preponderate, of course. As I rode down the street, I was surprised to see so many women and children; I had not thought the diggers were in the habit of bringing their families with them, or of settling so much as I found to be the case. A large tent with a cross at one end, was pointed out to me as the 'Episcopal Church,' and a smaller weatherboard building the Romancatholic. The village was supposed to contain about 2000 people when I was there-including the huts scattered up and down the valley in its immediate neighbourhood.

Passing through this curious-looking place, half camp, half village, I followed my guide across the river Turon, which was very low and narrow, and up the steep bank opposite; we threaded our way through a perfect labyrinth of pits and holes, like a rabbit-burrow on a large scale, most of them deserted, but some still in process of being worked, until we arrived at what is called the commissioners' camp;' and certainly its appearance and accompaniments corresponded with the military associations suggested by the name. It was a little cantonment of bark huts and tents, standing apart from the surrounding buildings, on an eminence, in the middle of which there was a pretty large yard, surrounded by open sheds, in which some thirty or forty horses were picketed. All about the cantonment troopers were lounging, regular moustached, soldierly-looking men, wearing a blue uniform, something like our artillery, and armed like light cavalry. Close by the enclosure I was met by a party of four or five young men, in undress uniform, evidently of superior rank to the others, whom my guide pointed out to me as the commis. sioners.' I asked for the chief

commissioner, to whom I had a letter of introduction, and was very kindly received and welcomed by him. He told me he could not offer me a bed, as t they were quite full, but asked me to dine with them, and recommended me to an inn in the town, where he said I should find quiet and tolerable accommodation. He told

me also that I found them literally in a state of siege; and that the day before there had been a large armed meeting, at which it was determined not to submit to the new regulations. Three delegates were appointed, who went over to the commissioners' camp, informed the latter of the resolution arrived at, and further announced that they, the delegates, were then offenders against the law, being resident without licences, and that they would not take out any. The commissioners, thus defied, determined to act with vigour. They arrested the delegates, tried them on the spot (as the act enables them to do), and fined them five pounds each. The delegates blustered, said their friends would rescue them, and asked leave to send over to the meeting an account of their position. The commissioners consented; and while the messenger was absent put their camp in a posture of defence. Their force consisted of about thirty-five mounted policemen, well armed with carbines, pistols, and sabres. They had had the huts and the stables loopholed; the men's arms were loaded, and every one was at his post. In the mean time, great agitation prevailed at the meeting. Some professed a violent anxiety to storm the camp and rescue the prisoners; it is even said that a rush was actually made across the river for that purpose, and that they were only prevented by the personal intervention and influence of a Wesleyan minister. However, I suspect they were very glad of a good excuse, and that they never seriously entertained any idea of fighting. At any rate no fighting took place, but the commissioners had thought it right to send to Bathurst for more force, as the malcontents still loudly proclaimed their intention of not allowing defaulters to be arrested on the river,' i. e., at work. The delegates, I forgot to say, had their fines paid by sub

1853.]

scription, after it had been determined not to fight. This was, of course, a confession of defeat. I spent the evening with the commissioners, and after dinner was guided through the pitfalls of the diggers to my inn, where, to my surprise, I got a bedroom to myself, and a tolerable bed, not more thickly peopled than the one which I had now become used to. The next morning I breakfasted at the camp,' and spent the day in visiting the various diggings up and down the river. The number of the diggers had fallen off very largely of late, partly on account of the new regulations, but much more from the comparative exhaustion of the Turon, and the inviting accounts which had reached them from the Ovens and Mount Alexander, in the neighbouring colony. There were still, however, at the time of my visit, about 2500 men at work in the district surrounding Bathurst. I spoke to a great many of them, asked them about their earnings, prospects, &c. Every one, without an exception, spoke in a tone of discontent and dissatisfaction; and many more, I doubt not, would go away if they had not brought up their families, and settled themselves. Still, inconsistent as it may appear, almost every one admitted that he was 'making wages,' which, in the mouths of diggers, means earning 10s. a day, or 31. a week, which I find is in fact the estimated average product of each man at work, calculated by comparing the number of licences with the amount of gold sent down by escort; and setting the unlicensed diggers against the gold that is sent down in other ways.

A good number of capitalists' were working their claims by means of hired labour, and I found they gave from 27. 10s. to 31. a week, for work which, of course, was not so hard or so long-continued, as if the men were working for themselves. The employers, I need hardly say, never, or almost never, make this plan pay; most of them give it up after a short trial. There are one or two companies also at work, about whose success I am not sanguine. I cannot conceive any speculation more hazardous and unpromising than an investment in an Australian gold

637

mining company-especially for an English capitalist. I do not believe, indeed, in the advisableness, under any circumstances whatever, of colonial investments, by persons not intending to reside in the colony where they have invested. I have been so repeatedly warned against them by men of large colonial experience, and so many instances in corroboration of such warnings have come under my own knowledge, that I have no doubt upon the point. As a general rule you cannot trust any one to look after property at such a distance from the owner's eye. There are exceptions, of course, but so few as not to affect the argument. There was no quartz-crushing establishment at work when I was at the Turon, though many have been talked of, and it is the opinion, I think, of the best authorities with whom I have conversed, that there is no rock in New South Wales which it will pay to crush upon a large scale. The Turon (though still, at the time of my visit, producing a good deal of gold, in consequence of the long drought permitting the bed-claims to be worked, for the first time since the first discovery) has decidedly seen its best days; the cream of the diggings has been skimmed. The same, too, seems to be the case with respect to all the neighbouring localities where gold has been found, Braidwood, Louisa Creek, Tambaroora, Mudgee, &c. Nor have the discoveries made in this colony, during the last twelve months, gone near to compensating for the exhaustion of the old ones. The whole produce of New South Wales is not one-half of what it was eighteen months ago. The colonists, who are extremely reluctant to confess this exhaustion of their mines, say that the diminished production is entirely owing to the diminution of the digging population, and that this last is owing to the fashionableness (they will not allow any real superiority) of the Victoria gold-fields. The average earnings at Port Phillip, however, have also decreased of late. The amount of gold sent down from all the Australian diggings during December, 1852, and January, 1853, was not much more than half what it had been in October and November, and this notwithstanding that the number

of diggers, or, at least, the popula tion of the colony, has rapidly increased in the interval. In February, March, and April last, the dimi nution has been slower; but each of those months showed a steady though slight decrease, as compared with the preceding one. It is, of course, impossible to say what new discoveries of gold may be made in Australia, as there is a large extent of country apparently auriferous; but, unless new diggings, equal in richness to Mount Alexander, Ballarat, and Bendigo, be discovered from time to time, there can be no doubt that the produce must gradually but certainly and very considerably decline. Alluvial diggings are soon worked out, and I understand, from good authority, that as yet no appearance of gold mines, such as are worked in Brazil, has been exhibited in Australia. All gold countries have proved very rich for a few years after they are first worked, and men who are well acquainted with the South American mines tell me the latter must have been, in their opinion, as rich as the Australian diggings at first. Against the probability of many rich focalities being hereafter discovered there is this to be said: for two years the whole population of Australia has been thinking of one subject only, that is, gold; the whole efforts of everybody, governments as well as individuals, have been directed towards its acquisition; scientific expeditions have been sent out in every direction; private explorers, accustomed to the business, have

prospected' every promising locality, so that I say-not, of course, that no further discoveries of gold will be made, (for new ones are made every month or so,) but-that the chance of discovering rich goldfields diminishes, as time rolls on, and as population advances, in a constantly accelerated ratio. Any conceivable period may elapse before the first discovery of precious metals in a country, because they may be under the very feet of the population without being even thought of; but experience, so far as I know, shows that, after the first discovery, all the paying, or, at least, all the very rich mines, are ascertained and worked, within a comparatively

short period. In Mexico and Peru, for example, no new mines have been discovered, for the last 300 years, comparable, in richness, to those which were worked within a few years of the conquest. In South Australia the most eager search has failed to discover a second BurraBurra. And so I am inclined to think, (though, of course, I speak with great diffidence,) it will be with respect to gold in Australia. At any rate, when I find such a remarkable phenomenon as a considerable decrease in the amount sent down, and this decrease going on for five or six months steadily, notwithstanding the discovery of many fresh dig gings, and a large increase in the population, it is impossible for me to avoid a suspicion that the cream may have been already skimmed, and that no future year will see so large a production of Australian gold as 1852. There is, however, one circumstance to be noticed as of some weight on the opposite or encouraging side of the question. It is this-that in California, where the gold-field has been worked now for more than four years, I believe that the production, or at least the export of each year, has been greater than that of the preceding one; so that in that country either the increase of population, or the discovery of new diggings, or improved methods of working, or all these causes together, have hitherto counteracted the tendency on which I have insisted above.

Nothing, I believe, has yet been discovered in the shape of machinery equal in efficiency to the simple instruments which each man, or at most each gang of three or four men, can procure and work for themselves-namely, for the dry diggings the pickaxe, the shovel, and the cradle; and for the bedclaims,' a pump called a long-Tom,' in addition. Nor do I see any probability of superior machinery being presently required, for the Australian gold is apparently found always near the surface, and in rock that is easily worked, while the habits of the people and the high rate of labourers' wages make combination under the orders of a capitalist irksome to them and unprofitable to him. I am not suffi

1853.]

My

ciently acquainted with the state of society and of the country in the mining provinces of South America to be able to draw a comparison with them, but we must not forget that there are now very few places where gold-digging or gold-mining pays, and that, except in Australia and California, they are all places where labour is cheap or compulsory, as for example, Brazil, Russia, and Carolina. Is there not reason to suppose that in these two exceptional localities also the time will soon come when gold-digging will not be found more profitable than it is found elsewhere? However, after all, our speculations have one element of uncertainty so important as to deprive us of much confidence in making them, because all depends on the chance of new discoveries, which no one knows anything about. Upon the question, naturally often asked, whether the Californian or the Australian gold-fields are the richer, there are very various opinions. own, which has not been formed without at least much inquiry, is that though there are undoubtedly greater prizes, in the shape of large nuggets, to be obtained in Australia, yet the average earnings of the Californian diggers are on the whole larger, and complete failures much more rare. In the mean time, it is curious that the demand for labour and the inconveniences of every kind which result from it, have decidedly increased within the last six months of which we have accounts, although probably 150,000 people have been added to the labouring population, while the gold-fields were less productive in May, than they were in November, last. Of course the reason of this apparent paradox is that the creation of so much fresh capital has set in motion all sorts of enterprises and employments, which have more than absorbed the whole immigration. There is not so powerful an attraction to the diggings themselves as last year, but every other kind of business has increased so largely, that labourers are more wanted and more highly paid than ever. This point must be always kept in mind by those who are speculating on the probability of a fall in wages, with

639

a diminution of the necessity for immigration, and of the chances of immigrants finding employment. It will be a long time, even if the production of the gold-field should fall off rapidly and largely, before immigration can overtake the demands which the capital already created and in course of creation is producing, and will produce still more extensively if there be the slightest appearance of a fall in the present exorbitant rate of wages. There

are vast sums actually lying idle, which nothing but the want of labour prevents from being invested, and every day adds to their amount. The only business in which labour can be procured with tolerable ease is fortunately the one which is most important both to the colony and to England-I mean sheepfarming; the reason of which is, that anybody, almost, will do for shepherds, what the Australians call crawlers,' men who cannot or will not do hard work. A very little practice teaches them all that is necessary, and the labour is nothing. Many have left off shepherding to go to the gold-fields, but have very soon returned, disgusted with the hard work; and as to road-making, or any other sort of labour (especially task-work), which involves control and regularity, a shepherd will not look at it.

I

But to return to Sofala. called on the Anglican clergyman, but did not find him at home; then I looked in at his school (the only one in the place), where I found about sixty children-boys and girls

taught by a man with one leg, who told me he had taken to teaching about twelve months before, in consequence of having been disqualified for digging by the loss of his leg from an accident in one of the holes. The clergyman got the school-room built, and provides the books. The pecuniary remuneration of the master is derived from the fees paid by the children.

I heard from the commissioners that there were plenty of kangaroos in the neighbourhood of Sofala, and as I expressed a strong desire to see a hunt, they promised to get a man who had good dogs in the town, to show me one. Accordingly, the

of diggers, or, at least, the popula. tion of the colony, has rapidly increased in the interval. In February, March, and April last, the dimi nution has been slower; but each of those months showed a steady though slight decrease, as compared with the preceding one. It is, of course, impossible to say what new discoveries of gold may be made in Australia, as there is a large extent of country apparently auriferous; but, unless new diggings, equal in richness to Mount Alexander, Ballarat, and Bendigo, be discovered from time to time, there can be no doubt that the produce must gradually but certainly and very considerably decline. Alluvial diggings are soon worked out, and I understand, from good authority, that as yet no appearance of gold mines, such as are worked in Brazil, has been exhibited in Australia. All gold countries have proved very rich for a few years after they are first worked, and men who are well acquainted with the South American mines tell me the latter must have been, in their opinion, as rich as the Australian diggings at first. Against the probability of many rich localities being hereafter discovered there is this to be said: for two years the whole population of Australia has been thinking of one subject only, that is, gold; the whole efforts of everybody, governments as well as individuals, have been directed towards its acquisition; scientific expeditions have been sent out in every direction; private explorers, accustomed to the business, have 'prospected' every promising locality, so that I say-not, of course, that no further discoveries of gold will be made, (for new ones are made every month or so,) but-that the chance of discovering rich goldfields diminishes, as time rolls on, and as population advances, in a constantly accelerated ratio. Any conceivable period may elapse before the first discovery of precious metals in a country, because they may be under the very feet of the population without being even thought of; but experience, so far as I know, shows that, after the first discovery, all the paying, or, at least, all the very rich mines, are ascertained and worked, within a comparatively

short period. In Mexico and Peru, for example, no new mines have been discovered, for the last 300 years, comparable, in richness, to those which were worked within a few years of the conquest. In South Australia the most eager search has failed to discover a second BurraBurra. And so I am inclined to think, (though, of course, I speak with great diffidence,) it will be with respect to gold in Australia. At any rate, when I find such a remarkable phenomenon as a considerable decrease in the amount sent down, and this decrease going on for five or six months steadily, notwithstanding the discovery of many fresh diggings, and a large increase in the population, it is impossible for me to avoid a suspicion that the cream may have been already skimmed, and that no future year will see so large a production of Australian gold as 1852. There is, however, one circumstance to be noticed as of some weight on the opposite or encouraging side of the question. It is this-that in California, where the gold-field has been worked now for more than four years, I believe that the production, or at least the export of each year, has been greater than that of the preceding one; so that in that country either the increase of population, or the discovery of new diggings, or improved methods of working, or all these causes together, have hitherto counteracted the tendency on which I have insisted above.

Nothing, I believe, has yet been discovered in the shape of machinery equal in efficiency to the simple instruments which each man, or at most each gang of three or four men, can procure and work for themselves-namely, for the dry diggings the pickaxe, the shovel, and the cradle; and for the 'bedclaims,' a pump called a long-Tom,' in addition. Nor do I see any probability of superior machinery being presently required, for the Australian gold is apparently found always near the surface, and in rock that is easily worked, while the habits of the people and the high rate of labourers' wages make combination under the orders of a capitalist irksome to them and unprofitable to him. I am not suffi